#1   Report Post  
Old 25-07-2005, 01:34 AM
John H.
 
Posts: n/a
Default co2 tank issues

I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute is
adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had the flow
too high? (65gal tank)
thanks
John



  #2   Report Post  
Old 25-07-2005, 12:56 PM
Nikki Casali
 
Posts: n/a
Default

John H. wrote:

I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute is
adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had the flow
too high? (65gal tank)


I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH
from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different
rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki

  #3   Report Post  
Old 25-07-2005, 07:27 PM
John H.
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...
John H. wrote:

I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute
is adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had
the flow too high? (65gal tank)


I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH
from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different
rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki



I'm not sure, this is my first planted tank and I'm still tackling the
learning curve for it. Compared to my
first tank (just your basic freshwater wth plastic plants), there are so
many new things to learn, but so far my
tank looks very nice. The plants are really taking off.
So why is it important to know the pH drop? I guess you dont want it to drop
too far?
thanks


  #4   Report Post  
Old 25-07-2005, 08:17 PM
Nikki Casali
 
Posts: n/a
Default

John H. wrote:

"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...

John H. wrote:


I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute
is adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had
the flow too high? (65gal tank)


I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH
from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different
rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki




I'm not sure, this is my first planted tank and I'm still tackling the
learning curve for it. Compared to my
first tank (just your basic freshwater wth plastic plants), there are so
many new things to learn, but so far my
tank looks very nice. The plants are really taking off.
So why is it important to know the pH drop? I guess you dont want it to drop
too far?


The pH drop is directly proportional to the amount of CO2 being
dissolved. If you know your KH then you can calculate the CO2 level. My
tank has a KH of 230ppm and its pH right now is 7.17. That equates to a
dissolved CO2 level of 26ppm. You don't want to go higher than 40ppm as
the fish may start suffering. A level of between 20 and 30ppm is a good
level to keep algae at bay with lush plant growth.

If your fish are compatible with plants, I believe a planted tank is far
healthier than a non-planted one. I hardly ever need to change the water
as all fish waste is consumed by plant growth. It's a great natural
filter system.

It took me months to work out everything. I did all my research on the
internet which is a fantastic resource. Check out this website for
information on plants and CO2 related stuff:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Nikki

  #5   Report Post  
Old 26-07-2005, 05:43 PM
John H.
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...
John H. wrote:

"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...

John H. wrote:


I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute
is adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had
the flow too high? (65gal tank)

I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH
from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different
rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki




I'm not sure, this is my first planted tank and I'm still tackling the
learning curve for it. Compared to my
first tank (just your basic freshwater wth plastic plants), there are so
many new things to learn, but so far my
tank looks very nice. The plants are really taking off.
So why is it important to know the pH drop? I guess you dont want it to
drop too far?


The pH drop is directly proportional to the amount of CO2 being dissolved.
If you know your KH then you can calculate the CO2 level. My tank has a KH
of 230ppm and its pH right now is 7.17. That equates to a dissolved CO2
level of 26ppm. You don't want to go higher than 40ppm as the fish may
start suffering. A level of between 20 and 30ppm is a good level to keep
algae at bay with lush plant growth.

If your fish are compatible with plants, I believe a planted tank is far
healthier than a non-planted one. I hardly ever need to change the water
as all fish waste is consumed by plant growth. It's a great natural filter
system.

It took me months to work out everything. I did all my research on the
internet which is a fantastic resource. Check out this website for
information on plants and CO2 related stuff:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Nikki


Thanks, this is a great group. I've gotten lots of good help here.
One thing I just discovered is that when I connected my CO2 regulator to the
CO2 tank, I didnt use these washers that were supplied. These 2 plastic
washers are supposed to go inside the female nut on the regulator. I might
have been losing gas that way.




  #6   Report Post  
Old 26-07-2005, 08:08 PM
Nikki Casali
 
Posts: n/a
Default

John H. wrote:

"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...

John H. wrote:


"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
.. .


John H. wrote:



I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute
is adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had
the flow too high? (65gal tank)

I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH

from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different

rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki



I'm not sure, this is my first planted tank and I'm still tackling the
learning curve for it. Compared to my
first tank (just your basic freshwater wth plastic plants), there are so
many new things to learn, but so far my
tank looks very nice. The plants are really taking off.
So why is it important to know the pH drop? I guess you dont want it to
drop too far?


The pH drop is directly proportional to the amount of CO2 being dissolved.
If you know your KH then you can calculate the CO2 level. My tank has a KH
of 230ppm and its pH right now is 7.17. That equates to a dissolved CO2
level of 26ppm. You don't want to go higher than 40ppm as the fish may
start suffering. A level of between 20 and 30ppm is a good level to keep
algae at bay with lush plant growth.

If your fish are compatible with plants, I believe a planted tank is far
healthier than a non-planted one. I hardly ever need to change the water
as all fish waste is consumed by plant growth. It's a great natural filter
system.

It took me months to work out everything. I did all my research on the
internet which is a fantastic resource. Check out this website for
information on plants and CO2 related stuff:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Nikki



Thanks, this is a great group. I've gotten lots of good help here.
One thing I just discovered is that when I connected my CO2 regulator to the
CO2 tank, I didnt use these washers that were supplied. These 2 plastic
washers are supposed to go inside the female nut on the regulator. I might
have been losing gas that way.


That'll probably be it! I checked for leaks by painstakingly spraying
every joint or connection with diluted washing up liquid to check for
escaping CO2. Also, I used Teflon tape on every thread except the one on
the bottle. I'm 5 1/2 months in with my 5lb bottle and there's no empty
signs yet.

Nikki

  #7   Report Post  
Old 27-07-2005, 04:46 AM
djay
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You should only use ONE of the washers, not both!
They will be either a felt or nylon. If you use both washers you will not
have the correct seal.

Djay


"John H." wrote in message
...

"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...
John H. wrote:

"Nikki Casali" wrote in message
...

John H. wrote:


I have a basic CO2 setup, 5 lb bottle with regulator. I filled it a 3-4
months ago and its almost empty?
I'm checking for leaks around the seals but how many bubbles per minute
is adaquate for plants. If I dont find any leaks then maybe I just had
the flow too high? (65gal tank)

I worked out that 2 bubbles per second will keep my tank at about 7.2 pH
from a natural 8.1 in a 75 UK gallon tank. At night, that's a different
rate, but my pH controller sorts that out by usually switching off the
CO2. It sounds like you may have a leak. But what pH drop are you
obtaining from your bubble rate.

Nikki



I'm not sure, this is my first planted tank and I'm still tackling the
learning curve for it. Compared to my
first tank (just your basic freshwater wth plastic plants), there are so
many new things to learn, but so far my
tank looks very nice. The plants are really taking off.
So why is it important to know the pH drop? I guess you dont want it to
drop too far?


The pH drop is directly proportional to the amount of CO2 being
dissolved. If you know your KH then you can calculate the CO2 level. My
tank has a KH of 230ppm and its pH right now is 7.17. That equates to a
dissolved CO2 level of 26ppm. You don't want to go higher than 40ppm as
the fish may start suffering. A level of between 20 and 30ppm is a good
level to keep algae at bay with lush plant growth.

If your fish are compatible with plants, I believe a planted tank is far
healthier than a non-planted one. I hardly ever need to change the water
as all fish waste is consumed by plant growth. It's a great natural
filter system.

It took me months to work out everything. I did all my research on the
internet which is a fantastic resource. Check out this website for
information on plants and CO2 related stuff:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Nikki


Thanks, this is a great group. I've gotten lots of good help here.
One thing I just discovered is that when I connected my CO2 regulator to
the CO2 tank, I didnt use these washers that were supplied. These 2
plastic washers are supposed to go inside the female nut on the regulator.
I might have been losing gas that way.



  #8   Report Post  
Old 28-07-2005, 04:42 AM
John H.
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"djay" wrote in message
news:MsDFe.7064$vY2.2412@trnddc09...
You should only use ONE of the washers, not both!
They will be either a felt or nylon. If you use both washers you will not
have the correct seal.

Djay


But according to the website, http://www.jbjlighting.com/pdfs/CO2_Manual.pdf
it says to use both washers?


  #9   Report Post  
Old 28-07-2005, 07:37 PM
George Pontis
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , says...

"djay" wrote in message
news:MsDFe.7064$vY2.2412@trnddc09...
You should only use ONE of the washers, not both!
They will be either a felt or nylon. If you use both washers you will not
have the correct seal.

Djay


But according to the website,
http://www.jbjlighting.com/pdfs/CO2_Manual.pdf
it says to use both washers?


That is unfortunate. The manual is also advising one to use teflon tape on the
threads, which play no role at all in providing a gas-tight seal. This shows a
lack of understanding on the part of the author, and their suggestion to use two
washers should be rejected.

The fitting on CO2 cylinders is a standard design listed as CGA-320.
(CGA=Compressed Gas Association) A single nylon washer and light to moderate
torque on the nut will provide an excellent seal. Also, the cylinder valve should
be opened all the way against the stop (compressing the internal seal) so one does
not depend on the stem packing to provide a gas seal. If the components are
undamaged and you use the single washer, the chances of having a leak on the high
pressure side are nil.

You can test with some children's bubble liquid, the commercial product, or your
own mixture ( usually soap or detergent with glycerine, diluted in water ).

George
  #10   Report Post  
Old 30-07-2005, 03:44 AM
John H.
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"George Pontis" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

"djay" wrote in message
news:MsDFe.7064$vY2.2412@trnddc09...
You should only use ONE of the washers, not both!
They will be either a felt or nylon. If you use both washers you will
not
have the correct seal.

Djay


But according to the website,
http://www.jbjlighting.com/pdfs/CO2_Manual.pdf
it says to use both washers?


That is unfortunate. The manual is also advising one to use teflon tape on
the
threads, which play no role at all in providing a gas-tight seal. This
shows a
lack of understanding on the part of the author, and their suggestion to
use two
washers should be rejected.

The fitting on CO2 cylinders is a standard design listed as CGA-320.
(CGA=Compressed Gas Association) A single nylon washer and light to
moderate
torque on the nut will provide an excellent seal. Also, the cylinder valve
should
be opened all the way against the stop (compressing the internal seal) so
one does
not depend on the stem packing to provide a gas seal. If the components
are
undamaged and you use the single washer, the chances of having a leak on
the high
pressure side are nil.

You can test with some children's bubble liquid, the commercial product,
or your
own mixture ( usually soap or detergent with glycerine, diluted in
water ).

George


Thank you
I trust the opinion of everyone here and appreciate everyones help.
john




  #11   Report Post  
Old 04-08-2005, 01:15 AM
Bill Stock
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"George Pontis" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

"djay" wrote in message
news:MsDFe.7064$vY2.2412@trnddc09...
You should only use ONE of the washers, not both!
They will be either a felt or nylon. If you use both washers you will
not
have the correct seal.

Djay


But according to the website,
http://www.jbjlighting.com/pdfs/CO2_Manual.pdf
it says to use both washers?


That is unfortunate. The manual is also advising one to use teflon tape on
the
threads, which play no role at all in providing a gas-tight seal. This
shows a
lack of understanding on the part of the author, and their suggestion to
use two
washers should be rejected.

The fitting on CO2 cylinders is a standard design listed as CGA-320.
(CGA=Compressed Gas Association) A single nylon washer and light to
moderate
torque on the nut will provide an excellent seal. Also, the cylinder valve
should
be opened all the way against the stop (compressing the internal seal) so
one does
not depend on the stem packing to provide a gas seal. If the components
are
undamaged and you use the single washer, the chances of having a leak on
the high
pressure side are nil.

You can test with some children's bubble liquid, the commercial product,
or your
own mixture ( usually soap or detergent with glycerine, diluted in
water ).

George


Yep, my 20# is dead empty after replacing the regulator and using the two
washers. Damn!



  #13   Report Post  
Old 05-08-2005, 01:10 AM
Bill Stock
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"George Pontis" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

...

Yep, my 20# is dead empty after replacing the regulator and using the two
washers. Damn!


Too bad. But once you get it right that #20 cylinder will last a long
time.
Regarding leaks at the high pressure side, I have a good experience for
comparison. About a month ago I sold an aquarium that had CO2 injection
setup. I
kept the CO2 equipment, closed the needle valve and the cylinder valve. To
this
day, the pressure at the regulator inlet has not dropped at all.

I found this article (with plenty of good pics) that discusses the hookup
of tank
and regulator. Perhaps someone will find it helpful.

http://www.cloudytanks.com/reviews/aquariums/c02.htm

George


Thanks George,

I suspect the replacement (warranty) regulator is a refurb. So I'll have to
do a complete inspection to see if the problem is the 'new' regulator or my
seal. I was thinking I could disconnect the solenoid and put a plastic bag
around the valve to see if I had a leak on the high pressure side and follow
up with the bubble soap method that Nikki mentioned.



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