yellowing
 

My anubias, swords, and Java fern have been growing wonderfully for a
couple months now. I have been using Flourish and Trace, more or less to
package directions. Lately, my anubias has been turning a reddish-yellow. Is
iron deficiency likely? None of the local LFS have iron test kits, in fact
most of them have no idea what I'm talking about. Mail order only option.

75gallon
moderately planted, heavy bio-load, gravel sub, wet/dry sump overflow.
3x40 day-max 1x40 something else, yellowish light. Forgotg
amo:0
nitrite:0
nitrate:10ppm
Ph:7.0
tmp:78f

yellowing
 

On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 16:26:15 GMT, "WD" wrote:

My anubias, swords, and Java fern have been growing wonderfully for a
couple months now. I have been using Flourish and Trace, more or less to
package directions. Lately, my anubias has been turning a reddish-yellow. Is
iron deficiency likely? None of the local LFS have iron test kits, in fact
most of them have no idea what I'm talking about. Mail order only option.

It might be, several deficiencies will make leafes turn yellow.

See if you can find the symptoms here.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_nutrient.htm

SEE YA !!!

Malawi, The Fisher King - Ruler Of The World
Conquering the world for YOU since 1972.
Remove nospam to mail me.

yellowing
 

In article H6oba.41568$F1.2113@sccrnsc04, "WD" writes:

My anubias, swords, and Java fern have been growing wonderfully for a
couple months now. I have been using Flourish and Trace, more or less to
package directions. Lately, my anubias has been turning a reddish-yellow. Is
iron deficiency likely? None of the local LFS have iron test kits, in fact
most of them have no idea what I'm talking about. Mail order only option.


I've read that when you see yellowing/browning leaves in only slow growing
plants (like anubias) it can actually be a symptom of an excess (poisoning) of
nutrients. Fast growing plants would not be affected. The fast growers will
yellow first when there is a nutrient deficiency where slow growers have more
nutrients stored.
-Paraphrased from Peter Hiscock, "Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants"

Are you adding CO2? I would think poisoning would be more likely if you
aren't.
Cris

yellowing
 

"Kcristy" wrote in message
...
In article H6oba.41568$F1.2113@sccrnsc04, "WD"
writes:


Are you adding CO2? I would think poisoning would be more likely if you
aren't.
Cris

No, it's a 75, and I can't afford a commercial CO2 setup just yet. And
pardon my misspeak, it's bacopa, not anubius. I'll check out my
fertilization.

yellowing
 

Kcristy wrote:
I've read that when you see yellowing/browning leaves in only slow growing
plants (like anubias) it can actually be a symptom of an excess (poisoning) of
nutrients. Fast growing plants would not be affected. The fast growers will

Hmmm... the oldest (and largest) leaf on my anubias is getting a yellow tint
near the edges. I just thought it was dying as terrestrial leafs do. What
kind of nutrient excess causes this?

--
Victor M. Martinez

http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv

yellowing
 

In article , (Victor
M. Martinez) writes:

Kcristy wrote:
I've read that when you see yellowing/browning leaves in only slow growing
plants (like anubias) it can actually be a symptom of an excess (poisoning)
of
nutrients. Fast growing plants would not be affected. The fast growers
will

Hmmm... the oldest (and largest) leaf on my anubias is getting a yellow tint
near the edges. I just thought it was dying as terrestrial leafs do. What
kind of nutrient excess causes this?


Well, according to Hiscock, it can be an excess of any nutrient or combination
of nutrients. You can't tell which by the plant symptoms, you just have to
look at the level of nutrients the plant is getting through the water and
substrate. And since most of us don't have the capability to measure most
nutrients we just have to experiment with what we add until we get the right
balance. The reason, btw, that slow growing plants will be poisoned while fast
growers are ok is that the fast growers can put out leaves quickly enough to
dilute the effect of receiving the excess nutrient while the slow growers just
build up the nutrient in their stores until it becomes toxic.
Cris

yellowing
 

WD wrote:

My anubias, swords, and Java fern have been growing wonderfully for a
couple months now. I have been using Flourish and Trace, more or less to
package directions. Lately, my anubias has been turning a reddish-yellow. Is
iron deficiency likely? None of the local LFS have iron test kits, in fact
most of them have no idea what I'm talking about. Mail order only option.

75gallon
moderately planted, heavy bio-load, gravel sub, wet/dry sump overflow.
3x40 day-max 1x40 something else, yellowish light. Forgotg
amo:0
nitrite:0
nitrate:10ppm
Ph:7.0
tmp:78f

Flourish provides what we call "trace elements" on this list, except it contains
no iron. Flourish Trace provides just a few things that are used up, and it is
probably not helping you.

If using the Flourish family, you will probably need to dose Potassium, from
Flourish Potassium or dry K2SO4. If your water is low on iron, you will need to
dose Flourish Iron.

Another alternative is to switch to PMDD, which uses inexpensive dry fertilizers
and chemicals, and which includes Iron, Potassium and optionally Nitrate.

Start reading he

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/

yellowing
 

Kcristy wrote:
substrate. And since most of us don't have the capability to measure most
nutrients we just have to experiment with what we add until we get the right
balance.

But I don't fertilize much... :) Actually, I haven't been measuring the
weekly doses of Fluorish and Fluorish Iron lately, I just eyeball them.
I'll skip them this week and start measuring next week.

The reason, btw, that slow growing plants will be poisoned while fast
growers are ok is that the fast growers can put out leaves quickly enough to
dilute the effect of receiving the excess nutrient while the slow growers just
build up the nutrient in their stores until it becomes toxic.

That makes sense.

--
Victor M. Martinez

http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv

yellowing
 

In article , "WD"
writes:

No, it's a 75, and I can't afford a commercial CO2 setup just yet. And
pardon my misspeak, it's bacopa, not anubius. I'll check out my
fertilization.

Hmm. Looking at your setup again, you have more than 2wpg light, plenty of
nitrate, liquid fert., but no co2. Are there any substrate additives? You
might try reducing light, nitrate, and fert. until you can add co2. I've also
found that Flourish Excel works well as a carbon source, but it would be quite
expensive for a 75g. Bacopa is a bright light and iron loving plant, but
without enough carbon it won't be able to utilize these nutrients properly.

yellowing
 

"WD" wrote in message
. net...

"Kcristy" wrote in message
...
In article H6oba.41568$F1.2113@sccrnsc04, "WD"
writes:


Are you adding CO2? I would think poisoning would be more likely if you
aren't.
Cris

No, it's a 75, and I can't afford a commercial CO2 setup just yet. And
pardon my misspeak, it's bacopa, not anubius. I'll check out my
fertilization.

Try a simple DIY CO2 system, the cost is minimal. Effect is amazing.

Bob

yellowing
 

"Robert Flory" wrote in message news:1XLba.1088

Try a simple DIY CO2 system, the cost is minimal. Effect is amazing.

Bob

With a 75 gallon, I don't think the DIY yeast method will be sufficient. I
have used DIY on 2 tanks up to 40 gallons with moderate success.

yellowing
 

I use three 2-liter bottles on my 75 gallon with 2.5 watts per gallon, one
on a powerhead and two into the canister filter. I'm usually behind on my
maintenance so, frankly, probably only two of them are fresh on any given
day. It does the job.

kush

WD wrote in message
news:6xNba.64850$S_4.47168@rwcrnsc53...

"Robert Flory" wrote in message news:1XLba.1088

Try a simple DIY CO2 system, the cost is minimal. Effect is amazing.

Bob

With a 75 gallon, I don't think the DIY yeast method will be sufficient. I
have used DIY on 2 tanks up to 40 gallons with moderate success.

yellowing
 

"kush" wrote in message
...
I use three 2-liter bottles on my 75 gallon with 2.5 watts per gallon, one
on a powerhead and two into the canister filter. I'm usually behind on my
maintenance so, frankly, probably only two of them are fresh on any given
day. It does the job.

I suppose it's worth trying. Would a few 'tees' on the venturi on a
powerhead provide adequete dispersion? No canister, I use a wet/dry sump for
filtration.

yellowing
 

I started out with 2 bottles of diy co2 on my 75g and I had trouble keeping
it above 10ppm but have since upgraded to compressed co2 and it's always
around 20-25ppm now.

Ron

"WD" wrote in message
news:6xNba.64850$S_4.47168@rwcrnsc53...

"Robert Flory" wrote in message news:1XLba.1088

Try a simple DIY CO2 system, the cost is minimal. Effect is amazing.

Bob

With a 75 gallon, I don't think the DIY yeast method will be sufficient. I
have used DIY on 2 tanks up to 40 gallons with moderate success.

yellowing
 

Be careful of flimsy plastic bottles if you use the venturi! It provides
just enough suction (IME!) to partially collapse a soda bottle while the
liquid is warm.

The method I use now is to insert a hose into a hole drilled at the base of
the riser tube. The bubble rises through the tube to the powerhead and is
smashed. The shroud directs the smashed bubble back down into the water.
Very little of the bubble makes it to the surface.

It's not as effective as injecting it into the canister, but it's pretty
good.

My problem with tees, and gang valves, and check valves, and what-have-you,
is leakage. Wherever possible I use a single tube direct from the bottle to
the tank - you may need to develop a little confidence in not blowing things
up before you're ready to try that, though.

kush

"You can't have everything - where would you put it?"

WD wrote in message
news:yQNba.57197$3D1.2148@sccrnsc01...

"kush" wrote in message
...
I use three 2-liter bottles on my 75 gallon with 2.5 watts per gallon,
one
on a powerhead and two into the canister filter. I'm usually behind on
my
maintenance so, frankly, probably only two of them are fresh on any
given
day. It does the job.

I suppose it's worth trying. Would a few 'tees' on the venturi on a
powerhead provide adequete dispersion? No canister, I use a wet/dry sump
for
filtration.