I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading of
7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard
water.

The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I lose
it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the
large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I
replace it and then is starts over again.

I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs all
the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then when
the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am afraid if I
turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want. The pH is
stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in the bubble
counter at this point anyhow?

Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks.

Dan

"Dan" wrote in message
...
I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading
of 7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard
water.

The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I
lose it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and
the large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing.
I replace it and then is starts over again.

I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs all
the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then when
the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am afraid if
I turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want. The pH is
stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in the bubble
counter at this point anyhow?

Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks.

Dan


Ideally your bubbles should be low enough that your controller is almost
always on. That way you don't get any PH fluctuations and if your solenoid
gets stuck open you won't poison your tank. Although I can't say that mine
is set that accurately.

My bubble counter is connected to the venturi input of a powerhead (RUGF),
so it never stays full of water. The venturi sucks the water right out.But
since I don't rely on the bubble counter (PH Controller) it's doesn't matter
all that much.

Thanks: I will turn it down. Makes sense to me.

Dan

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

"Dan" wrote in message
...
I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading
of 7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very
hard water.

The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I
lose it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast
and the large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air
tubing. I replace it and then is starts over again.

I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs
all the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then
when the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am
afraid if I turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want.
The pH is stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in
the bubble counter at this point anyhow?

Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks.

Dan


Ideally your bubbles should be low enough that your controller is almost
always on. That way you don't get any PH fluctuations and if your solenoid
gets stuck open you won't poison your tank. Although I can't say that mine
is set that accurately.

My bubble counter is connected to the venturi input of a powerhead (RUGF),
so it never stays full of water. The venturi sucks the water right out.But
since I don't rely on the bubble counter (PH Controller) it's doesn't
matter all that much.

If you have your ph stabilized where you want it, why do you even need
the bubble counter? The whole point of a bubble counter is to be able
to tell the amount of CO2 entering the tank, so you can get it set to
where you want it.

You already have it where you want it, so why bother with the bubble
counter?

Nick

http://www.hotdogmuffin.com
http://forum.hotdogmuffin.com

In article , says...
I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading of
7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard
water.

The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I lose
it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the
large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I
replace it and then is starts over again.


In a chemistry lab a bubble counter would most likely be filled with mineral oil.
Alternatively, some aquarium vendors offer a fluid for filling bubble counters.
One of these two options should solve your problem so long as the flow rate is
reasonable.

Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by with
slowing the flow rate also.

Dan

"George Pontis" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...
I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading
of
7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard
water.

The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I
lose
it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the
large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I
replace it and then is starts over again.


In a chemistry lab a bubble counter would most likely be filled with
mineral oil.
Alternatively, some aquarium vendors offer a fluid for filling bubble
counters.
One of these two options should solve your problem so long as the flow
rate is
reasonable.

"Dan" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by
with slowing the flow rate also.

Dan

Could the Mineral oil somehow get into the tank? I already have some kind of
oilly layer on my water that I think is from the regulator, I doubt it from
any of my plants?
Also, wouldnt Nick be correct, once you have your bubble rate dialed in,
even if all the water evaporates from the bubble counter what difference
does it make?
John

John H. wrote:
"Dan" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by
with slowing the flow rate also.

Dan


Could the Mineral oil somehow get into the tank? I already have some kind of
oilly layer on my water that I think is from the regulator, I doubt it from
any of my plants?
Also, wouldnt Nick be correct, once you have your bubble rate dialed in,
even if all the water evaporates from the bubble counter what difference
does it make?

The bubble rate cannot be guaranteed to remain constant. My bubble rate
is somewhat inversely proportional to ambient temperature due to
expansion/contraction of metal parts. I now use a pH controller, but I'm
still comforted by the bubble counter.

Nikki

In article , says...

"Dan" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by
with slowing the flow rate also.

Dan

Could the Mineral oil somehow get into the tank? I already have some kind of
oilly layer on my water that I think is from the regulator, I doubt it from
any of my plants?
Also, wouldnt Nick be correct, once you have your bubble rate dialed in,
even if all the water evaporates from the bubble counter what difference
does it make?
John


What you see is a common thing in aquaria that do not have a lot of surface
agitation. It is a protein film. You can ignore it, siphon it out once in a while,
get it into suspension and filtered by increasing surface agitation, blot it up
with a paper towel, add mollies to eat it, or add a surface skimmer!

If some mineral oil were to get through it would probably appear as a globule in
the water and not as a film covering the surface. You would also see droplets of
mineral oil in the airline tubing that carries the CO2 to the tank.

I believe that Nick is correct about not needing the bubble counter once you have
it dialed in. The liquid in the chamber does not affect the flow rate to any
significant degree.