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Old 20-04-2003, 06:25 AM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default BBA spreading

All of my plants seem to be healthy and growing rapidly (at least the
fast-growing ones), except for one. Right now I'm not too concerned about
that one. I posted about "brown-hair algae" a couple of weeks ago. It is
still there, and spreading I think, but very slowly. I have had what I
believe is BBA starting about the time of that post.

I have read a lot on the web about this. I can't really find a way to deal
with it though. I know hair/brush algae is tough.

I am changing 20g water every 4-5 days. I have to use RO water so I add
Kent RO Right plus one quarter tsp MgSO4 to the water I put in. Could the
lack of Calcium (or something else) be the problem?

pH 6.6
KH 3 (this is color-change after 3 drops, NOT before, is that the
correct way to read it?)
Presumably CO2 ~20ppm
Using TMG as directed, except I break it down into the correct amount to
dose twice a week.
110w/55g

I know you want to limit PO4 to control algae, but since I am using RO
water, and no PO4, could this be a problem?

Would it help to rip out the most-affected plants? I gather not, from what
I've read. But I have visions of a thiving black algae tank. Am I
over-reacting? Is this a phase after adding bright lighting (6 weeks ago
with the plants)?

I am also getting moderate pearling, which indicates to me that the plants
are healthy and growing, but the algae is pearling too.

One other thing, NO3 is going down (not just after water changes), when it
gets 5ppm I add one quarter tsp KNO3 which brings it back up to 10ppm.

Also I've read about blacking out the tank.

I can provide more info, but I've probably tired you out by now.

thanks so much,

bob allred


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Old 20-04-2003, 06:25 AM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default BBA spreading

Correction, I just pulled some "invested" leaves out of my tank, and they
are dark green, not black or brown (unless I have two different kinds, I
don't think so).

thanks,

bob


"Bob A" wrote in message
...
All of my plants seem to be healthy and growing rapidly (at least the
fast-growing ones), except for one. Right now I'm not too concerned about
that one. I posted about "brown-hair algae" a couple of weeks ago. It is
still there, and spreading I think, but very slowly. I have had what I
believe is BBA starting about the time of that post.

I have read a lot on the web about this. I can't really find a way to

deal
with it though. I know hair/brush algae is tough.

I am changing 20g water every 4-5 days. I have to use RO water so I add
Kent RO Right plus one quarter tsp MgSO4 to the water I put in. Could the
lack of Calcium (or something else) be the problem?

pH 6.6
KH 3 (this is color-change after 3 drops, NOT before, is that the
correct way to read it?)
Presumably CO2 ~20ppm
Using TMG as directed, except I break it down into the correct amount to
dose twice a week.
110w/55g

I know you want to limit PO4 to control algae, but since I am using RO
water, and no PO4, could this be a problem?

Would it help to rip out the most-affected plants? I gather not, from

what
I've read. But I have visions of a thiving black algae tank. Am I
over-reacting? Is this a phase after adding bright lighting (6 weeks ago
with the plants)?

I am also getting moderate pearling, which indicates to me that the plants
are healthy and growing, but the algae is pearling too.

One other thing, NO3 is going down (not just after water changes), when it
gets 5ppm I add one quarter tsp KNO3 which brings it back up to 10ppm.

Also I've read about blacking out the tank.

I can provide more info, but I've probably tired you out by now.

thanks so much,

bob allred




  #3   Report Post  
Old 20-04-2003, 06:25 AM
Dave Millman
 
Posts: n/a
Default BBA spreading

Bob A wrote:

All of my plants seem to be healthy and growing rapidly (at least the
fast-growing ones), except for one. I have had what I
believe is BBA starting about the time of that post.

I am changing 20g water every 4-5 days. I have to use RO water so I add
Kent RO Right plus one quarter tsp MgSO4 to the water I put in. Could the
lack of Calcium (or something else) be the problem?

pH 6.6
KH 3 (this is color-change after 3 drops, NOT before, is that the
correct way to read it?)
Presumably CO2 ~20ppm
Using TMG as directed, except I break it down into the correct amount to
dose twice a week.
110w/55g

I know you want to limit PO4 to control algae, but since I am using RO
water, and no PO4, could this be a problem?

One other thing, NO3 is going down (not just after water changes), when it
gets 5ppm I add one quarter tsp KNO3 which brings it back up to 10ppm.


Reconstituting RO can be tough, speaking from experience. I wish our tap water
weren't semiconductor/agricultural sewage with 30ppm nitrate at the tap!

Here's my recipe for a 72 gallon heavily planted and heavily stocked tank: I
change about 20 gallons per week. My targets are KH 2-2.5 and pH 6.4-6.6. My
current formula per 2O gallons new RO water is:

2 teaspoons Kent RO Right (reconstitutes GH)
1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) (raises KH)

My weekly fert regimen is:

1/4 teaspoon Plantex + B
1/4 teaspoon K2SO4
3/4 teaspoon KNO3

pH is 6.4, KH 2, yielding 24 ppm CO2 from a bottled source.

Since you are changing nearly 50% of your water every 4-5 days, the simplest
answer is for you to adopt Tom Barr's strategy described he

http://www.aquatic-plants.org/fert/e...st_index1.html

Search the archives of this group or APD for postings by Tom Barr to read his
recommendations. Here's a good one from APD:

http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00404.html

Regarding Phosphate, current thinking is that an excess of Phosphate IN THE
ABSENCE OF OTHER IMPORTANT NUTRIENTS will encourage algae. The trick is not to
remove phosphate, because it is a macronutrient after all, but to provide the
other necessary nutrients. Here's a useful post on that one:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...b1d7e4d&rnum=1

  #4   Report Post  
Old 20-04-2003, 06:25 AM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default BBA spreading

I thought no-one was going to reply! heh Thanks very much Dave, I'll start
reading.

bob allred


"Dave Millman" wrote in message
...
Bob A wrote:

All of my plants seem to be healthy and growing rapidly (at least the
fast-growing ones), except for one. I have had what I
believe is BBA starting about the time of that post.

I am changing 20g water every 4-5 days. I have to use RO water so I add
Kent RO Right plus one quarter tsp MgSO4 to the water I put in. Could

the
lack of Calcium (or something else) be the problem?

pH 6.6
KH 3 (this is color-change after 3 drops, NOT before, is that the
correct way to read it?)
Presumably CO2 ~20ppm
Using TMG as directed, except I break it down into the correct amount to
dose twice a week.
110w/55g

I know you want to limit PO4 to control algae, but since I am using RO
water, and no PO4, could this be a problem?

One other thing, NO3 is going down (not just after water changes), when

it
gets 5ppm I add one quarter tsp KNO3 which brings it back up to 10ppm.


Reconstituting RO can be tough, speaking from experience. I wish our tap

water
weren't semiconductor/agricultural sewage with 30ppm nitrate at the tap!

Here's my recipe for a 72 gallon heavily planted and heavily stocked tank:

I
change about 20 gallons per week. My targets are KH 2-2.5 and pH 6.4-6.6.

My
current formula per 2O gallons new RO water is:

2 teaspoons Kent RO Right (reconstitutes GH)
1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) (raises KH)

My weekly fert regimen is:

1/4 teaspoon Plantex + B
1/4 teaspoon K2SO4
3/4 teaspoon KNO3

pH is 6.4, KH 2, yielding 24 ppm CO2 from a bottled source.

Since you are changing nearly 50% of your water every 4-5 days, the

simplest
answer is for you to adopt Tom Barr's strategy described he

http://www.aquatic-plants.org/fert/e...st_index1.html

Search the archives of this group or APD for postings by Tom Barr to read

his
recommendations. Here's a good one from APD:

http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00404.html

Regarding Phosphate, current thinking is that an excess of Phosphate IN

THE
ABSENCE OF OTHER IMPORTANT NUTRIENTS will encourage algae. The trick is

not to
remove phosphate, because it is a macronutrient after all, but to provide

the
other necessary nutrients. Here's a useful post on that one:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...b1d7e4d&rnum=1



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