I planted (heavily) my 55g tank 3 days ago. I tested my water parameters
this morning (a tiger barb died, I don't know why) and my KH is 1 (or less)
and my pH is 9 (from 7.2).

I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2 rapidly?

I added TMG when I planted, less than half dose (as recommended by the
instructions) but stopped after I was told I might need to hold off a couple
weeks on fertilizer. I have a 1/3 flourite substrate. NO3 15ppm (same as
before I planted).

I guess I need to get some CO2 into the tank QUICK? I have brewers yeast on
the way. Would it help to turn the lights off in the meantime? 110w
installed immediately after planting.

thanks so much,

bob allred

Sounds like biogenic decalcification. The plants are stripping CO2 from the
hydrogen carbonates causing pH to rise and kH to crash. Yes, you need to
either supplement with CO2 quick and/or change 50% of your water to get rid
of some nutrients. In the meantime, turning off the lights will temporarily
stop the carnage.

Your tiger barb died of alkaline intoxification. Note that continuous
flucuating pH also can be harmful/deadly to your fish.

Bob A wrote in message
...
I planted (heavily) my 55g tank 3 days ago. I tested my water parameters
this morning (a tiger barb died, I don't know why) and my KH is 1 (or
less)
and my pH is 9 (from 7.2).

I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2
rapidly?

I added TMG when I planted, less than half dose (as recommended by the
instructions) but stopped after I was told I might need to hold off a
couple
weeks on fertilizer. I have a 1/3 flourite substrate. NO3 15ppm (same as
before I planted).

I guess I need to get some CO2 into the tank QUICK? I have brewers yeast
on
the way. Would it help to turn the lights off in the meantime? 110w
installed immediately after planting.

thanks so much,

bob allred

Sounds like biogenic decalcification. The plants are stripping CO2 from the
hydrogen carbonates causing pH to rise and kH to crash. Yes, you need to
either supplement with CO2 quick and/or change 50% of your water to get rid
of some nutrients. In the meantime, turning off the lights will temporarily
stop the carnage.

Your tiger barb died of alkaline intoxification. Note that continuous
flucuating pH also can be harmful/deadly to your fish.

Bob A wrote in message
...
I planted (heavily) my 55g tank 3 days ago. I tested my water parameters
this morning (a tiger barb died, I don't know why) and my KH is 1 (or
less)
and my pH is 9 (from 7.2).

I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2
rapidly?

I added TMG when I planted, less than half dose (as recommended by the
instructions) but stopped after I was told I might need to hold off a
couple
weeks on fertilizer. I have a 1/3 flourite substrate. NO3 15ppm (same as
before I planted).

I guess I need to get some CO2 into the tank QUICK? I have brewers yeast
on
the way. Would it help to turn the lights off in the meantime? 110w
installed immediately after planting.

thanks so much,

bob allred

I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2 rapidly?

That's what it looks like, based on your water parameters, but jeez, you've
only got 2 watts per gallon. I wouldn't expect you to have this problem.

Do you have a lot of surface agitation? Surface turbulence is a good thing in
a non-injected tank.

If you have a lot of aeration but still have problems with high pH, then yes,
turn off the lights. That will help.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2 rapidly?

That's what it looks like, based on your water parameters, but jeez, you've
only got 2 watts per gallon. I wouldn't expect you to have this problem.

Do you have a lot of surface agitation? Surface turbulence is a good thing in
a non-injected tank.

If you have a lot of aeration but still have problems with high pH, then yes,
turn off the lights. That will help.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Is this one of those things that can cause snail shells to turn white
and pitted? (LIVE snails, even...)

I have 80w over 55g (no CO2), so not even 2 wpg, but my pH is close to 8
most of the time. I have lots of vals, hornwort and some anacharis in
there, along with some crypts and a melon sword. Can the mix of plants
do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even without lots of light?
pete

LeighMo wrote:
I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2 rapidly?


That's what it looks like, based on your water parameters, but jeez, you've
only got 2 watts per gallon. I wouldn't expect you to have this problem.

Do you have a lot of surface agitation? Surface turbulence is a good thing in
a non-injected tank.

If you have a lot of aeration but still have problems with high pH, then yes,
turn off the lights. That will help.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/


--
--
pete

"It is unwise to insult a doughnut be refusing to eat it."

Is this one of those things that can cause snail shells to turn white
and pitted? (LIVE snails, even...)

I have 80w over 55g (no CO2), so not even 2 wpg, but my pH is close to 8
most of the time. I have lots of vals, hornwort and some anacharis in
there, along with some crypts and a melon sword. Can the mix of plants
do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even without lots of light?
pete

LeighMo wrote:
I need help quick. I am guessing that the plants are using the CO2 rapidly?


That's what it looks like, based on your water parameters, but jeez, you've
only got 2 watts per gallon. I wouldn't expect you to have this problem.

Do you have a lot of surface agitation? Surface turbulence is a good thing in
a non-injected tank.

If you have a lot of aeration but still have problems with high pH, then yes,
turn off the lights. That will help.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/


--
--
pete

"It is unwise to insult a doughnut be refusing to eat it."

Yes! Vallisneria a prime culprit in biogenic decalcification.

Pete in the Colorado Mtns wrote ...
Can the mix of plants do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even
without lots of light?

Yes! Vallisneria is a prime culprit in biogenic decalcification.

Yes! Vallisneria a prime culprit in biogenic decalcification.

Pete in the Colorado Mtns wrote ...
Can the mix of plants do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even
without lots of light?

Yes! Vallisneria is a prime culprit in biogenic decalcification.

Is this one of those things that can cause snail shells to turn white
and pitted? (LIVE snails, even...)

Hmm. Usually white and pitted shells mean low pH.

I have 80w over 55g (no CO2), so not even 2 wpg, but my pH is close to 8
most of the time. I have lots of vals, hornwort and some anacharis in
there, along with some crypts and a melon sword. Can the mix of plants
do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even without lots of light?

I suppose it's possible, but do you know your water parameters? What is your
kH? A pH of 8 might be normal for you.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't expect it to be a problem in a low light tank, at least
as long as there's reasonable aeration and regular water changes.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Is this one of those things that can cause snail shells to turn white
and pitted? (LIVE snails, even...)

Hmm. Usually white and pitted shells mean low pH.

I have 80w over 55g (no CO2), so not even 2 wpg, but my pH is close to 8
most of the time. I have lots of vals, hornwort and some anacharis in
there, along with some crypts and a melon sword. Can the mix of plants
do the same 'damage' - stripping out CO2 - even without lots of light?

I suppose it's possible, but do you know your water parameters? What is your
kH? A pH of 8 might be normal for you.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't expect it to be a problem in a low light tank, at least
as long as there's reasonable aeration and regular water changes.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Thanks to Kush and Leigh, very much. I drained half the tank (about 25gal)
and slowly added fresh water, not to change the pH any more rapidly than I
had to. The pH is at 7.3-7.4 now.

I received my champagne yeast in the mail. I looked for some recipes on the
ng and web. This is what I ended up doing:

1 1/2 cup sugar in water, not quite hot enough to be painful to the hand.
Not quite a teaspoon of yeast. Gently shaking until all sugar was
dissolved. This is in a 2L soda bottle. I put on a cap tightly and after
about 1.5 hours I could tell there was significant pressure in the bottle,
so it was producing.

I now have the bottle hooked to airline hose (silicone needs to be ordered,
using regular airline hose for now) running through a gang valve with check
valve, and into the intake of my power filter.

This morning the pH is neither down nor up. Still about 7.3. I'm guessing
(or think I've read) that I might need to use some baker's yeast too.

Any suggestions? Oh, I have the bottle sitting on a vent from the light, to
warm it up some. I will be keeping a close eye.

My fish seem to be doing great, and I am very thankful for the help.

bob allred

Thanks to Kush and Leigh, very much. I drained half the tank (about 25gal)
and slowly added fresh water, not to change the pH any more rapidly than I
had to. The pH is at 7.3-7.4 now.

I received my champagne yeast in the mail. I looked for some recipes on the
ng and web. This is what I ended up doing:

1 1/2 cup sugar in water, not quite hot enough to be painful to the hand.
Not quite a teaspoon of yeast. Gently shaking until all sugar was
dissolved. This is in a 2L soda bottle. I put on a cap tightly and after
about 1.5 hours I could tell there was significant pressure in the bottle,
so it was producing.

I now have the bottle hooked to airline hose (silicone needs to be ordered,
using regular airline hose for now) running through a gang valve with check
valve, and into the intake of my power filter.

This morning the pH is neither down nor up. Still about 7.3. I'm guessing
(or think I've read) that I might need to use some baker's yeast too.

Any suggestions? Oh, I have the bottle sitting on a vent from the light, to
warm it up some. I will be keeping a close eye.

My fish seem to be doing great, and I am very thankful for the help.

bob allred

Bob A wrote ...

1 1/2 cup sugar in water, not quite hot enough to be painful to the hand.
Not quite a teaspoon of yeast. Gently shaking until all sugar was
dissolved. This is in a 2L soda bottle. I put on a cap tightly and after
about 1.5 hours I could tell there was significant pressure in the bottle,
so it was producing.

Formula sounds good, but the water only needed to be lukewarm. If the
yeasties lived the surface of the water should have a little tan foam on it.

I now have the bottle hooked to airline hose (silicone needs to be
ordered,
using regular airline hose for now) running through a gang valve with
check
valve, and into the intake of my power filter.

I use regular aquarium tubing. The most common problem I have is losing gas
at gang valves and check valves! I've gotten rid of as many as I could. If
you have the bottle on top of the tank anyway, I'd recommend attaching the
hose directly from the bottle to powerhead intake. Caution: if you do this
while the liquid is still warm it may partially collapse your soda bottle.
A juice bottle is sturdier.

This morning the pH is neither down nor up. Still about 7.3. I'm
guessing
(or think I've read) that I might need to use some baker's yeast too.

I don't think so. Bakers yeast is faster (that's all I use because I bake
bread, too) but, at this point, you should be producing. That's the big
draw back with using the powerhead, is that you can't see the bubbles (oh,
and collapsing soda bottles sometimes). I'd be more inclined to suspect
either a) leaking fittings, or b) terminally-cooked yeasties.

...I have the bottle sitting on a vent from the light, to warm it up some.

Good idea. Good luck.

Bob A wrote ...

1 1/2 cup sugar in water, not quite hot enough to be painful to the hand.
Not quite a teaspoon of yeast. Gently shaking until all sugar was
dissolved. This is in a 2L soda bottle. I put on a cap tightly and after
about 1.5 hours I could tell there was significant pressure in the bottle,
so it was producing.

Formula sounds good, but the water only needed to be lukewarm. If the
yeasties lived the surface of the water should have a little tan foam on it.

I now have the bottle hooked to airline hose (silicone needs to be
ordered,
using regular airline hose for now) running through a gang valve with
check
valve, and into the intake of my power filter.

I use regular aquarium tubing. The most common problem I have is losing gas
at gang valves and check valves! I've gotten rid of as many as I could. If
you have the bottle on top of the tank anyway, I'd recommend attaching the
hose directly from the bottle to powerhead intake. Caution: if you do this
while the liquid is still warm it may partially collapse your soda bottle.
A juice bottle is sturdier.

This morning the pH is neither down nor up. Still about 7.3. I'm
guessing
(or think I've read) that I might need to use some baker's yeast too.

I don't think so. Bakers yeast is faster (that's all I use because I bake
bread, too) but, at this point, you should be producing. That's the big
draw back with using the powerhead, is that you can't see the bubbles (oh,
and collapsing soda bottles sometimes). I'd be more inclined to suspect
either a) leaking fittings, or b) terminally-cooked yeasties.

...I have the bottle sitting on a vent from the light, to warm it up some.

Good idea. Good luck.