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#16
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How do you guys measure Stuff?
The Green dust on my glass is rally a pain. I would appreciate any help in
this regard. Thanks and Regards Dominic Green dust is a zoospore that after you wipe it off, it simply re settles back on the glass. They look like little spikey hemispheres. A good way to get rid of it is to do a good scrubbing of the glass etc, do a large water change right afterwards, and-or run a micron filter or some extra floss etc to remove the spores before they re settle back and start growing again. The filter byitself can do a good job if you scrub a couple of times a day. They re settle in about 1-2 hours time and you have a new film growing. It's not particularlly harmful to mplants and seldom grows on them. But it can be annoying since it coveres the glass fast. Some Pleco's will eat it etc. Regards, Tom Brr |
#17
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How do you guys measure Stuff?
The Green dust on my glass is rally a pain. I would appreciate any help in
this regard. Thanks and Regards Dominic Green dust is a zoospore that after you wipe it off, it simply re settles back on the glass. They look like little spikey hemispheres. A good way to get rid of it is to do a good scrubbing of the glass etc, do a large water change right afterwards, and-or run a micron filter or some extra floss etc to remove the spores before they re settle back and start growing again. The filter byitself can do a good job if you scrub a couple of times a day. They re settle in about 1-2 hours time and you have a new film growing. It's not particularlly harmful to mplants and seldom grows on them. But it can be annoying since it coveres the glass fast. Some Pleco's will eat it etc. Regards, Tom Brr |
#18
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How do you guys measure Stuff?
I add the exact same chemicals as you. If you had my 29 gal. tank with the
130 watts of lighting, ect., what would you add for ingredients? I got this idea from you, and so far I like it quite a bit. I'm probably going to go back to doing a water change 1 time every two weeks (maybe not either). Everything is growing good (hornwart grows 4-6" a day [yes, a day] and my Osiris sword grows a new leaf about every day, my wendtii has over 400 leaves and is threatening to take over the tank), and algae is almost non-existent, although the recent upgrade from 110 watts to 130 watts has left minimal fuzz algae. I would just like to know what you would recommend for my sized tank (if you were the owner)? Thanks -- Craig Brye University of Phoenix Online " wrote in message om... "Craig Brye" wrote in message ... I take the simple method of measuring the parameters of my 29 gal. tank (130 watts of cf lighting and injected CO2) before I add chemicals. I then added dry chemicals (for me it was a little over 1/4 teaspoon of KNO3, a small pinch of PO4 [KH2PO4], and around 4-8mls of trace twice a week, and around 1/2 teaspoon of K2SO4 once a week) to the tank and do weekly water changes of around 35-50% of the water. I then took measurements after adding (usually about 6-12 hours later) the chemicals to see where the parameters were (even if your tests aren't completely accurate, they should still measure some increase in the corresponding chemicals in the tank). I took in depth notes almost daily to see what was happening in the tank with regards to plants and algae. I did this for a couple of months until I had a pretty good routine down. Now I measure about 1-2 times a week to make sure my parameters are in check. -- Craig Brye University of Phoenix Online Cheers to Craig's advice. Even if the 1/4 teaspoon measurement is off, or if the 1/4 teaspoon you have is noit the same as mine, or you have a bit more than a level teaspoon, per 1/4 teaspoon you might be off only about 1-2ppm of NO3. If you are off 5ppm of K+ and in the range of 20-30ppm, it will not make one hoot of difference. 1-2ppm of NO3 is not bad, few kits are that accurate anyway. PO4 is similar to traces, as long as some is supplied every few days(shoot for 3 with CO2 good lighting etc) the actual measurement itself is not critical. CO2 light and NO3 are the most critical elements that will burn you. Simply adding enough of K, PO4 and traces is the other. Even if you overdose, a weekly 50% water change removes the errors you made dosing 1-2x mid week before you do another water change again. In this manner you maintain a range of nutrients that neither runs out nor builds up. You re set you tank's nutrients every week and dose by guessing/approximating in between. Main test is pH to determine CO2 content. The others are tested to get a feel or when something is whacky. Generally you don't even need to test pH is you have a good CO2 system that stays fairly steady. So even if Chuck's calcultor is off, does not account for grain sizes and different brands of KNO3 etc, it is still a fairly robust method. I add everything except traces dry to the tank. Generally 3x a week or every 2-3 days. 50-70% weekly water change. I use Traces K2SO4 KNO3 KH2PO4 Regards, Tom Barr |
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