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#16
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Dealing with bright tanks
What causes the pH to go up (alkaline) in high light tanks?
There are two different mechanisms. One is depletion of CO2. This causes daily pH swings. As the plants use up the CO2 during the day, the pH climbs. When the lights go off, the plants stop absorbing CO2, and start releasing it. The pH drops back down, reaching a low in the morning, just before the lights go on. A small swing is nothing to worry about, but in high light tanks, the swing can be large enough to make your fish very unhappy indeed. The other is "biogenic decalcification," which causes a steady rise over days or weeks. Not all plants can do this; the ones that can are generally the plants that only grow submersed. They don't produce aerial leaves, and so have adapted to getting CO2 out of the water. Egeria and Vallisneria, for example. If there's not enough CO2, they can extract it from the bicarbonate in the water. Often, if the plants are doing this, you'll find a chalky precipitate on the leaves -- calcium carbonate. The KH will drop, the pH will rise. pHs as high as 10 have been reported, due to biogenic decalcification. Neither of these mechanisms is a problem with lower light. In low light, the plants don't grow fast enough to deplete the CO2 in the water. Normal diffusion with the atmosphere keeps CO2 levels steady, despite the plants' using some of it. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#17
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Dealing with bright tanks
LeighMo wrote:
plants don't grow fast enough to deplete the CO2 in the water. Normal diffusion with the atmosphere keeps CO2 levels steady, despite the plants' using some of it. Thanks! That was most informative. -- Victor M. Martinez http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv |
#18
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Dealing with bright tanks
My plants do very well and algae was cut way back
Christopher wrote: I heard this can do weird things to the nutrients in your tanks and can retard algae growth? has anyone hooked up a steralizer to a planted tank and had success? "m.dekort" wrote in message ... If one of your problems is algae get a sterilizer. Once I had it set right the algae went right down Tony wrote: Hi, I'm new to this newsgroup. I've been reading the post here for a while. I wanted to thank all the posters. I've gotten tons of useful information by reading the posts here. I've used a lot of the information here to setup a 46 gallon bowfront that is doing OK. Thanks! I wanted to start a discussion regarding tanks that have a lot of light, at least 3-4 watts per gallon (wgp). I have two such tanks and have had a lot of problems. What are other people's experiences with tanks that have a lot of light. What problems have people had with bright tanks or high light tanks? What are some of the benfits that people have experienced with bright tanks? How have people dealt with algae? Any other experiences that you'd like to share? In another post I'll put the details of my tanks, but I just wanted to start some discussion first. Thanks, Tony |
#19
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Dealing with bright tanks
I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean
the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back LeighMo wrote: I heard this can do weird things to the nutrients in your tanks and can retard algae growth? has anyone hooked up a steralizer to a planted tank and had success? Me. I've had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning. It won't do weird things to the nutrients in your tank. While UV light will oxidize iron and the like, the effect is negligible. Hydroponics growers routinely use UV sterilizers. It won't solve all your algae problems, either. It does make short work of green water, but has no effect on other types of algae. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#20
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Dealing with bright tanks
I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean
the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back That has not been my experience. I had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning, before algae had a chance to get established. (It was to prevent ich as I stocked the tank.) Nevertheless, as the weeks went on, I got various algae infestations. IME, this is normal for a newly established tank, and I didn't do anything special to control it, other than make sure I had enough CO2 and fertilizer. Eventually, it went away on it own. However, I still have more algae in the tank with the UV sterilizer than in the tank without one. (Because the other tank has les slight, and lots of snails.) Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#21
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Dealing with bright tanks
I have over 4 watts per gallon on my 29 gallon tank and I don't have an
algae problem. I'll admit it took a while and a lot of learning, but I made it. It takes a lot of learning regarding fertilization, pushing your CO2 output to the upper limits of about 30 ppm (while still keeping your fish in mind), and a lot of patience. If your nutrients are in correct balance, the algae should go away, but sometimes this can take some time. I was doing things correctly, but the algae was slow to disappear and I got impatient. I kept changing things around and kept messing up. Trust the advice given in this newsgroup by the "veterans" and give it a little time. Everything will strike a balance. Once you reach this point of being "algae free", I've found it's hard (at least for me) to get the algae back as long as you keep the balance (at least make a conscious effort, which you must do especially considering the lighting you have). -- Craig Brye University of Phoenix Online "Tony" wrote in message om... Hi, I'm new to this newsgroup. I've been reading the post here for a while. I wanted to thank all the posters. I've gotten tons of useful information by reading the posts here. I've used a lot of the information here to setup a 46 gallon bowfront that is doing OK. Thanks! I wanted to start a discussion regarding tanks that have a lot of light, at least 3-4 watts per gallon (wgp). I have two such tanks and have had a lot of problems. What are other people's experiences with tanks that have a lot of light. What problems have people had with bright tanks or high light tanks? What are some of the benfits that people have experienced with bright tanks? How have people dealt with algae? Any other experiences that you'd like to share? In another post I'll put the details of my tanks, but I just wanted to start some discussion first. Thanks, Tony |
#22
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Dealing with bright tanks
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#23
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Dealing with bright tanks
perhaps a more powerful UV sterilizer?
are the steralizers inline with the filter or how do they work? can anyone give me the best and easiest one to get? I have 2 fluval 404 filters and I'd rather not have another intake and outake on the back of my tank "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back That has not been my experience. I had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning, before algae had a chance to get established. (It was to prevent ich as I stocked the tank.) Nevertheless, as the weeks went on, I got various algae infestations. IME, this is normal for a newly established tank, and I didn't do anything special to control it, other than make sure I had enough CO2 and fertilizer. Eventually, it went away on it own. However, I still have more algae in the tank with the UV sterilizer than in the tank without one. (Because the other tank has les slight, and lots of snails.) Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#24
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Dealing with bright tanks
perhaps a more powerful UV sterilizer?
No. A UV sterilizer will take care of green water, but it will *not* fix other algae problems. The best way to control algae is to keep your nutrients (including CO2) in balance with your lighting and your plant selection, and to keep some algae-eaters for mop-up. are the steralizers inline with the filter or how do they work? There are two kinds of UV sterilizers: inline and standalone. Some can be used either way. The inline models are meant to be used with cannister filters. You just hook it up "inline" with the cannister filter, and the cannister filter's pump runs water through it. (You should get a T-connector, so you can control the amount of water that goes through the sterilizer.) The standalone models are meant to be hooked to a powerhead, which you must buy separately. (Check to make sure the flowrate of the powerhead is within the UV sterilizer's recommended flowrate.) Get a standalone if you'll be using the unit on more than one tank. I bought a Custom Sealife "Double Helix" model, which is one of those that can be used both inline or standalone. (I'm using it standalone, with a Penguin powerhead.) I chose Custom Sealife because it's lower maintenance than most. With other sterilizers, you have to wipe algae off the quartz sleeve over the bulb every once in awhile. With some types, this means dismantling the unit to clean it. Others have a "wiper," that allows you to clean the sleeve without taking the unit apart, or even taking it off the tank. The Double Helix doesn't have a quartz sleeve. It's made out of special polymer that's so slippery algae can't adhere, so there's cleaning. In addition to cleaning, you have to change the bulb regularly, or the sterilizer won't be effective. The interval depends on what model you get -- generally, it's anywhere from every six months to every eighteen months. Also make sure the sterilizer you choose is sized for your tank, and that you have the proper flowrate going through it. I recommend sizing up one; sometimes manufacturers exaggerate the effectiveness of their units. And ich can be tough to kill. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#25
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Dealing with bright tanks
Not to push the thread but. . .I had the same issue until I got the flow right.
Too slow and algae was not affected. Based on the specs to kill algae and other bad things i believe i have found a happy medium. For example - I used to get algae on the glass at the output of the return nozzle - now I do not. LeighMo wrote: I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back That has not been my experience. I had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning, before algae had a chance to get established. (It was to prevent ich as I stocked the tank.) Nevertheless, as the weeks went on, I got various algae infestations. IME, this is normal for a newly established tank, and I didn't do anything special to control it, other than make sure I had enough CO2 and fertilizer. Eventually, it went away on it own. However, I still have more algae in the tank with the UV sterilizer than in the tank without one. (Because the other tank has les slight, and lots of snails.) Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#26
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Dealing with bright tanks
My 2.5 cents again
You can also rig a sterilizer with an external power filter. I take water from the post filter media side, run it through the sterilizer and then put the output back in the tank at the other end. I regulate flow with a "pinch" type collar that is made for this. $ months and it works great. (I did it this way because I had the power filter first. I use the clean water filter input instead of just drawing from the tank because it is (should be) cleaner) LeighMo wrote: perhaps a more powerful UV sterilizer? No. A UV sterilizer will take care of green water, but it will *not* fix other algae problems. The best way to control algae is to keep your nutrients (including CO2) in balance with your lighting and your plant selection, and to keep some algae-eaters for mop-up. are the steralizers inline with the filter or how do they work? There are two kinds of UV sterilizers: inline and standalone. Some can be used either way. The inline models are meant to be used with cannister filters. You just hook it up "inline" with the cannister filter, and the cannister filter's pump runs water through it. (You should get a T-connector, so you can control the amount of water that goes through the sterilizer.) The standalone models are meant to be hooked to a powerhead, which you must buy separately. (Check to make sure the flowrate of the powerhead is within the UV sterilizer's recommended flowrate.) Get a standalone if you'll be using the unit on more than one tank. I bought a Custom Sealife "Double Helix" model, which is one of those that can be used both inline or standalone. (I'm using it standalone, with a Penguin powerhead.) I chose Custom Sealife because it's lower maintenance than most. With other sterilizers, you have to wipe algae off the quartz sleeve over the bulb every once in awhile. With some types, this means dismantling the unit to clean it. Others have a "wiper," that allows you to clean the sleeve without taking the unit apart, or even taking it off the tank. The Double Helix doesn't have a quartz sleeve. It's made out of special polymer that's so slippery algae can't adhere, so there's cleaning. In addition to cleaning, you have to change the bulb regularly, or the sterilizer won't be effective. The interval depends on what model you get -- generally, it's anywhere from every six months to every eighteen months. Also make sure the sterilizer you choose is sized for your tank, and that you have the proper flowrate going through it. I recommend sizing up one; sometimes manufacturers exaggerate the effectiveness of their units. And ich can be tough to kill. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#27
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Dealing with bright tanks
so still, shouldn't it take a considerable dent out of the free floating
algae spores? Wouldn't this slow the appearance of algae as it would not be able to spread in the tank nearly as fast? "LeighMo" wrote in message ... wouldn't it kill algae spores and not allow the algae to spread in the tank as easily? Not by my experience. UV sterilizers don't actually make the tank sterile. Some people claim that the fishes' immune systems get weak, because there's no germs to keep them revved up. Or that they kill off the biological filter. Not true. There's plenty of bacteria, spores, and the like in a tank with a UV sterilizer on it. The UV sterilizer can only kill the stuff that's free-floating, and it doesn't kill 100% of that. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#28
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Dealing with bright tanks
so still, shouldn't it take a considerable dent out of the free floating
algae spores? Wouldn't this slow the appearance of algae as it would not be able to spread in the tank nearly as fast? IME, no. Unlike, say, ich, it's not the amount of spores that controls how much algae you have in your tank. It's what's available in the tank to feed the algae. A lot of people have tried to control algae by keeping spores out of the tank. It never works. Similarly, if your tank is in balance, you can add plants and rocks that are covered with algae, and it will not spread; it will just die off. A UV sterilizer might be a good investment for you, for treating ich, because of the size of your tank. Medication is a hassle with very large tanks. But don't expect it to solve your algae problems. If you have algae, your tank is out of balance. Too much light, not enough CO2, or some kind of nutrient deficiency. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
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