Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.

I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using
Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate levels....
Maybe you are using too much fertilizer??

Troy


"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03...
Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.

I really don't use that much and sometimes i don't do it every week...so i
don't think it could be that, but you never know. i'll check out that
stuff you mentioned. thanks.

"Troy Bruder" wrote in message
...
I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using
Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate
levels....
Maybe you are using too much fertilizer??

Troy


"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03...
Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.
I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about
5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read
as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.

Ahhhh, I think I will get some of this and put it in my magnum.

http://www.seachem.com/en_products/p...phosguard.html


"Troy Bruder" wrote in message
...
I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using
Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate
levels....
Maybe you are using too much fertilizer??

Troy


"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03...
Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.
I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about
5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read
as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.

Have you tested your tapwater?

I have 40 ppm of phosphate in my tap water. (The water company uses it an an
anticorrosive, to protect their pipes.)

It's never caused me any algae trouble, in a planted or unplanted tank. In
fact, I'm glad they put phosphate in the water. It spares me the embarrassment
of buying Fleet enemas. :-)

You have a lot of light over your tank. I hope you have a compressed CO2
system. Do you know what your pH and KH are? You will be fighting constant
algae battles if you don't get enough CO2 injected.

And do you know your nitrate levels? IMO, a nitrate test kit is much more
useful than a phosphate test kit.

I would not waste money on phosphate absorbers and such. They are not
necessary, and I bet they won't fix your problem.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks.

---snip--

Well, I bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.

Get a few gallons of distilled water. You can make it yourself. Test
the Phosphate. Add a dose of you suspected product and test again.
Compare the two numbers. This will tell you if you are putting PO4 in
via one of your additives.

I suspect your tap water.


James Ervin
Remove SPAM to email me.

On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been
suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water
change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes
on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You
should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What
bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs
that come with Coralife fixtures? How much, how often, and what are
you feeding your fish? How many fish do you have in the tank? Do you
know what your tap water phosphates level is?

For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime
really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be
dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high
in phosphates), iron, and traces. You have fallen for a common
mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are
done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2
injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a
requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. If you will post
your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more
help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank,
you need to treat the problem and not the symptom.

Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.



Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been
suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water
change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes
on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You
should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What
bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs
that come with Coralife fixtures?

6500K (2) 10000K (2)

How much, how often, and what are
you feeding your fish?

i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and
tetra flake and pellets

How many fish do you have in the tank?

2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom)
6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size)
2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches)
6 Serpae
5 Red Eye
7 Zebra Danio
3 Otto
1 Whiptail Catfish

Do you
know what your tap water phosphates level is?

The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in my
tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them to
go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I have
stated here.


For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime
really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be
dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high
in phosphates), iron, and traces.

Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so I
cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really
good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them, not
all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a few
tuffs growing in the Florite.

You have fallen for a common
mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are
done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2
injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a
requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it.

I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much
right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself.

If you will post
your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more
help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank,
you need to treat the problem and not the symptom

pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely
kH = 2
gH = 5
NO2 = 0.3 mg/l
NO3 = less than 10ppm

And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for
the assistance.


Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.



Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

Ammonia = 0

Also, I just realized the hair algea is thickest where my filter outlet is
located. Everywhere else it is not near as much.

"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04...

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been
suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water
change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes
on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You
should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What
bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs
that come with Coralife fixtures?

6500K (2) 10000K (2)

How much, how often, and what are
you feeding your fish?

i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and
tetra flake and pellets

How many fish do you have in the tank?

2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom)
6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size)
2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches)
6 Serpae
5 Red Eye
7 Zebra Danio
3 Otto
1 Whiptail Catfish

Do you
know what your tap water phosphates level is?

The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in
my
tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them
to
go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I
have
stated here.


For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime
really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be
dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high
in phosphates), iron, and traces.

Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so
I
cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really
good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them,
not
all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a
few
tuffs growing in the Florite.

You have fallen for a common
mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are
done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2
injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a
requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it.

I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much
right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself.

If you will post
your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more
help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank,
you need to treat the problem and not the symptom

pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely
kH = 2
gH = 5
NO2 = 0.3 mg/l
NO3 = less than 10ppm

And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for
the assistance.


Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.
I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about
5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i
have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only
other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and
I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read
as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.



Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such
small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back
condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water
changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I
now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons
4 times a week?

thanks.

"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04...

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been
suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water
change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes
on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You
should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What
bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs
that come with Coralife fixtures?

6500K (2) 10000K (2)

How much, how often, and what are
you feeding your fish?

i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and
tetra flake and pellets

How many fish do you have in the tank?

2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom)
6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size)
2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches)
6 Serpae
5 Red Eye
7 Zebra Danio
3 Otto
1 Whiptail Catfish

Do you
know what your tap water phosphates level is?

The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in
my
tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them
to
go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I
have
stated here.


For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime
really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be
dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high
in phosphates), iron, and traces.

Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so
I
cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really
good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them,
not
all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a
few
tuffs growing in the Florite.

You have fallen for a common
mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are
done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2
injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a
requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it.

I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much
right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself.

If you will post
your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more
help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank,
you need to treat the problem and not the symptom

pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely
kH = 2
gH = 5
NO2 = 0.3 mg/l
NO3 = less than 10ppm

And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for
the assistance.


Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.
I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about
5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i
have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only
other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and
I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read
as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.



Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

here is a pic of my tank...you can't really see the hair algea from this
pic, but I thought i'd share it.

http://idoneous.net/images/75_tank/tank.jpg



"SlimFlem" wrote in message
news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04...

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:

Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been
suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water
change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes
on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You
should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What
bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs
that come with Coralife fixtures?

6500K (2) 10000K (2)

How much, how often, and what are
you feeding your fish?

i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and
tetra flake and pellets

How many fish do you have in the tank?

2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom)
6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size)
2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches)
6 Serpae
5 Red Eye
7 Zebra Danio
3 Otto
1 Whiptail Catfish

Do you
know what your tap water phosphates level is?

The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in
my
tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them
to
go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I
have
stated here.


For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime
really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be
dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high
in phosphates), iron, and traces.

Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so
I
cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really
good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them,
not
all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a
few
tuffs growing in the Florite.

You have fallen for a common
mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are
done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2
injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a
requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it.

I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much
right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself.

If you will post
your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more
help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank,
you need to treat the problem and not the symptom

pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely
kH = 2
gH = 5
NO2 = 0.3 mg/l
NO3 = less than 10ppm

And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for
the assistance.


Hi,

I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green
hair
algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing
great.
I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I
bought
a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale.
I
don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about
5
gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i
have
an
Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter
media
in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only
other
thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it
doesn't
support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have
stopped
using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and
I
had
the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too
much.
I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound?

Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change
today
with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read
as
high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem
PO4
test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates.

thanks for any advice and reading all my questions.



Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:


Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such
small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back
condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water
changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I
now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons
4 times a week?

thanks.


One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you
really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my
Python.

And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your
phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish
food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really
need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank.




Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

The reason I've always hesitated to get a Python is because I don't want to
put tap water directly into the tank. Isn't that how it works? I prefer to
airate the water for a day and adding Prime to it. Do you just turn the
Python on and let it start filling from the sink and you just squirt some
water treatment in at the same time? how do you control the temperature?
if my 5 gallon bucket of water gets too cool, i just add a little water
heated on the stove and let it airate for 20 minutes more or so and then
pour it into the tank. what do you think of this system.

I've looked into compressed CO2, but haven't done it yet. After I move in a
couple of months, I'll probably end up getting one so I can do it right.
I'll have to learn about all the pieces to get, etc.

thanks

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:


Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do
such
small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my
back
condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water
changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For
example, I
now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5
gallons
4 times a week?

thanks.


One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you
really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my
Python.

And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your
phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish
food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really
need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank.




Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

75 gallon

=)

"Rex Grigg" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:


Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do
such
small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my
back
condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water
changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For
example, I
now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5
gallons
4 times a week?

thanks.


One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you
really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my
Python.

And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your
phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish
food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really
need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank.




Semper Fi!

Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic!
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1

Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com
(Just a happy customer of the above!)

I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much
right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself.

You have too much light over your tank to do without CO2 injection. If you
can't inject CO2, reduce your lighting. Otherwise, you'll be battling algae
constantly. Try to get your lighting to around 2 wpg, if you can't inject CO2.

The phosphate is probably coming from the fish food. You've got measurable
nitrite in your tank. That means your biological filter is overloaded.

Your tank is lovely, but it also looks a little scant on plants. Adding more
plants will "crowd out" the algae, and also help reduce nitrite and phosphate.

I have a 75 gallon tank with slightly less light than you, and compressed CO2.
I change 30%-50% of the water each week. And I have compressed CO2. (A 75
gallon tank is a bit large for DIY CO2.)

I use a Python, and it's probably the best money I ever spent. Don't worry
about treating the water. You can do it in the tank. Dechlorinator works
instantly. You can add it before you start adding water back in, if you're
really worried.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/