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#1
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prefilter for UV
Hello all,
I'm thinking of attaching a UV to my 55 gal. temporarily whilst I deal with an outbreak of brush algae (SAEs, Amano shrimp manually cleaning rocks, etc.) Since I use aquaclear filters, there is no canister system into which it can be fitted. In truth, I would prefer that it be a "stand alone" system so I can relocate it to a marine tank once the algae is under control. What can I use to prefilter the water and how can I rig it up? Ideally, I'd like it down to 5 microns to save wear and tear on the UV. |
#2
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prefilter for UV
What can I use to prefilter the water and how can I rig it up? Ideally,
I'd like it down to 5 microns to save wear and tear on the UV. If you're planning to get a standalone UV sterilizer, then your intake will be a powerhead. That's what drives water through a standalone. You have to buy it separately. So the prefilter for the UV sterilizer will be the prefilter for the powerhead. There are a variety of prefilters for powerheads on the market; check them out in catalogs, online, etc. I use a Penguin powerhead. It came with a foam prefilter, and it works fine. I wouldn't worry about wear and tear on the UV sterilizer. Basically, it's nothing but a hollow tube that the water passes through. Small particles in the water won't cause any real wear and tear; there are no moving parts or anything. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#3
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prefilter for UV
What can I use to prefilter the water and how can I rig it up? Ideally, I'd like it down to 5 microns to save wear and tear on the UV. You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your pump.....your UV filter will come with a gph rating that you must not exceed. If you do, you will not be sterilizing your water as your dwell time in the unit will be too short for the wantage of the bulb. James Ervin Remove SPAM to email me. |
#4
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prefilter for UV
You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your
pump..... I think you only need that if you're getting an inline model. (Which he can't, since he's got a power filter.) If you're getting a standalone, you just have to be careful to buy a powerhead with an output that matches the UV sterilizer's gph rating. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#5
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prefilter for UV
What I had thought about doing was hooking the UV output line up to a
small via aqua pump's air hose intake, drawing water through the UV rather than pushing it through. That would get me below the 60-80 gph required for my UV unit. Then what I'd have to do is find some way to put a prefilter on the end of the intake hose. Either that or find some way to filter the grille intake of the via aqua. Since I already have such a pump running for circulation, it would mean no new pumps in the system. In article , tose says... You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your pump..... I think you only need that if you're getting an inline model. (Which he can't, since he's got a power filter.) If you're getting a standalone, you just have to be careful to buy a powerhead with an output that matches the UV sterilizer's gph rating. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#6
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prefilter for UV
What I had thought about doing was hooking the UV output line up to a
small via aqua pump's air hose intake, drawing water through the UV rather than pushing it through. Yikes. I'm not sure that would be a good idea. You might have a lot of trouble getting the syphon started. If I were you, I'd buy a correctly sized powerhead. They're under $20 mail order. And you'll need one anyway, if you're planning to move it around to different tanks. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#8
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prefilter for UV
you don't need a prefilter. just get the normal cap at the end to ensure no
fish go exploring up the tube and you are ok...the steralizer is just a tube that the water passes through so as long as the thing sucked in can make it out you have no problems "willis stanley" wrote in message . .. What I had thought about doing was hooking the UV output line up to a small via aqua pump's air hose intake, drawing water through the UV rather than pushing it through. That would get me below the 60-80 gph required for my UV unit. Then what I'd have to do is find some way to put a prefilter on the end of the intake hose. Either that or find some way to filter the grille intake of the via aqua. Since I already have such a pump running for circulation, it would mean no new pumps in the system. In article , tose says... You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your pump..... I think you only need that if you're getting an inline model. (Which he can't, since he's got a power filter.) If you're getting a standalone, you just have to be careful to buy a powerhead with an output that matches the UV sterilizer's gph rating. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#9
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prefilter for UV
and if its a newer model it is probably very easily cleanable ---
I have a triple helix *sp* - and its comes apart for easy cleaning Dustin "Christopher" wrote in message rthlink.net... you don't need a prefilter. just get the normal cap at the end to ensure no fish go exploring up the tube and you are ok...the steralizer is just a tube that the water passes through so as long as the thing sucked in can make it out you have no problems "willis stanley" wrote in message . .. What I had thought about doing was hooking the UV output line up to a small via aqua pump's air hose intake, drawing water through the UV rather than pushing it through. That would get me below the 60-80 gph required for my UV unit. Then what I'd have to do is find some way to put a prefilter on the end of the intake hose. Either that or find some way to filter the grille intake of the via aqua. Since I already have such a pump running for circulation, it would mean no new pumps in the system. In article , tose says... You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your pump..... I think you only need that if you're getting an inline model. (Which he can't, since he's got a power filter.) If you're getting a standalone, you just have to be careful to buy a powerhead with an output that matches the UV sterilizer's gph rating. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#10
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prefilter for UV
OK, this is what I did: took the mini jet 404 and attached one of the
aquaclear quick filters (supposedly 1 micron or so) to the intake (removed the grill and used superglue) put an inline valve between the pump and the UV unit (cheapo originally intended as an add on for home water filtration) and used that to drop the flow rate down to a guesstimated 50 gph, then back to the tank with the output near the intake for my via aqua which is still providing circulation. Couple of very slow leaks at the connectors I used to step-down tube size from .5 ID to .25 OD. Everything seems OK, but a couple more questions: 1. the lining of the UV unit is shiny metal. I try to keep metal away from my aquariums on principle, to the extent that's possible. Since we're not talking long term use here, is this a problem? 2. obviously I can't look inside to see that the lamp is lit, so how do I tell if it's on? 3. In terms of killing the floating nasties, there's clearly a point of diminishing returns beyond which it isn't worth it to continue running the UV. How long should I run it and how often? 10 hrs. twice a week? 3 hrs. once a week? I can break down and do the math but if there are any rules of thumb out there, I'd like to hear them. One more observation: the SAEs are working wonders with the brush algae, albeit slowly. These critters are worth their weight in gold if you've got this problem. In article ink.net, says... you don't need a prefilter. just get the normal cap at the end to ensure no fish go exploring up the tube and you are ok...the steralizer is just a tube that the water passes through so as long as the thing sucked in can make it out you have no problems "willis stanley" wrote in message . .. What I had thought about doing was hooking the UV output line up to a small via aqua pump's air hose intake, drawing water through the UV rather than pushing it through. That would get me below the 60-80 gph required for my UV unit. Then what I'd have to do is find some way to put a prefilter on the end of the intake hose. Either that or find some way to filter the grille intake of the via aqua. Since I already have such a pump running for circulation, it would mean no new pumps in the system. In article , tose says... You will also need a valve to slow down the output of your pump..... I think you only need that if you're getting an inline model. (Which he can't, since he's got a power filter.) If you're getting a standalone, you just have to be careful to buy a powerhead with an output that matches the UV sterilizer's gph rating. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#11
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prefilter for UV
1. the lining of the UV unit is shiny metal. I try to keep metal away
from my aquariums on principle, to the extent that's possible. Since we're not talking long term use here, is this a problem? I wouldn't think so. As long as it was designed for use with aquariums, it should be safe. 2. obviously I can't look inside to see that the lamp is lit, so how do I tell if it's on? Usually there's an indicator light that goes on. Mine is right under the intake/outflow barbs. 3. In terms of killing the floating nasties, there's clearly a point of diminishing returns beyond which it isn't worth it to continue running the UV. How long should I run it and how often? 10 hrs. twice a week? 3 hrs. once a week? I can break down and do the math but if there are any rules of thumb out there, I'd like to hear them. It's generally recommended that you run them 24/7. That's what I do. UV sterilizers aren't that efficient. Don't think you'll eliminate all nasties. You just reduce the concentration. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#12
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prefilter for UV
1. there's the rub; it's designed for a water filtration system i.e.
human consumption or hydroponics--got it supercheap so it's worth the experiment. I'll take it apart after a day or so and look for sediment, corrosion, etc. and see if I can remove the lining. This is fun. 2. no such luck on my unit. 3. concur that's what sounds practical. In article , tose says... 1. the lining of the UV unit is shiny metal. I try to keep metal away from my aquariums on principle, to the extent that's possible. Since we're not talking long term use here, is this a problem? I wouldn't think so. As long as it was designed for use with aquariums, it should be safe. 2. obviously I can't look inside to see that the lamp is lit, so how do I tell if it's on? Usually there's an indicator light that goes on. Mine is right under the intake/outflow barbs. 3. In terms of killing the floating nasties, there's clearly a point of diminishing returns beyond which it isn't worth it to continue running the UV. How long should I run it and how often? 10 hrs. twice a week? 3 hrs. once a week? I can break down and do the math but if there are any rules of thumb out there, I'd like to hear them. It's generally recommended that you run them 24/7. That's what I do. UV sterilizers aren't that efficient. Don't think you'll eliminate all nasties. You just reduce the concentration. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
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