Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

I was wondering whether anyone was using one of the Hagen Biolife
internal wet/dry filters in their planted tanks?

Is it going to be a CO2-injected tank? Wet/dry filters can dissipate a lot of
CO2. I also don't like the idea of an internal filter. The Biolife (if it's
the one I'm thinking of) is huge. Why have a big ugly filter in your tank,
when you can have it outside and out of sight instead?

Here's what "Practical Fishkeeping" said about it:

==========

Hagen Fluval BioLife

The Fluval Biolife is larger than most internal power filters and would
probably take up almost the entire end pane of an average tank. However, it
houses much more media than other internals, as well as using a more advanced
trickle filter in which the beneficial bacteria remove the oxygen they need
from the atmosphere, rather than the tank water. This means it’s important
not to submerge the Biolife too deeply, otherwise the trickle filter won’t
function effectively.

The water first passes through a large sponge, then a fine carbon-impregnated
sponge, and is then pumped up to a very fine drip tray screen where it trickles
through partially submerged sintered glass rings.

This biological media sits within strong mesh bags, rather than being loose in
the media baskets, which makes it much easier to clean. The overall biological
media volume is a massive 1080cm3, which works out at 5.65cm3 per litre.

The instructions give very sensible advice about cleaning and replacing the
media, and are fairly easy to follow. Since the media is lifted out from the
top of the filter, it may be very difficult to install and maintain if you have
a tank with wide sills or strengthening bars. It may even be impossible to fit
in some tanks.

There’s a holder on one side to take a heater thermostat, which protects it
from damage and places it in a position where it receives a good flow of water.
Unlike the previous version of the Biolife, there’s no heater supplied with
the unit itself, which accounts for its lower price.

The pump is fitted with an overflow spout which diverts some of the water into
the top of the trickle filter and forms a makeshift handle for removing the
pump. Past experience with old Biolifes has shown that this is a weak spot.

There’s lots of media here, and Hagen recommends that you change certain
items quite regularly. This means that running costs could be quite high if you
follow them to the word.

As far as biological filtration goes, we think that the Biolife is one of the
best internals on the market. It is, however, much more bulky and obtrusive.
The Fluval Biolife sells for £59.99.

Verdict
What’s Hot Loads of media. Space for a heater.
What’s Not Bulky and hard to install in some tanks. Running costs could be
high.

Quality 60%
Instructions 70%
Ease of use 60%
Impeller access 50%
Features 70%
Design 70%
Guarantee 60%
Price 60%
Media 95%
Value for money 60%
Overall 66%

Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

I had one in a 30g, really like it alot. Read up on how it works, it's a
true wet and dry filter. True that you don't want to be adding co2 with a
filter of that nature, but a well balanced tank with proper light, plants
and fish will serve just fine. I really liked the built in heater. Too bad
they don't make one to hang on the back. It's not that thick and wouldn't
be intrusive that way. I wonder if there's a way to adapt it?


"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
I was wondering whether anyone was using one of the Hagen Biolife
internal wet/dry filters in their planted tanks?

Is it going to be a CO2-injected tank? Wet/dry filters can dissipate a
lot of
CO2. I also don't like the idea of an internal filter. The Biolife (if
it's
the one I'm thinking of) is huge. Why have a big ugly filter in your
tank,
when you can have it outside and out of sight instead?

Here's what "Practical Fishkeeping" said about it:

==========

Hagen Fluval BioLife

The Fluval Biolife is larger than most internal power filters and would
probably take up almost the entire end pane of an average tank. However,
it
houses much more media than other internals, as well as using a more
advanced
trickle filter in which the beneficial bacteria remove the oxygen they
need
from the atmosphere, rather than the tank water. This means it's important
not to submerge the Biolife too deeply, otherwise the trickle filter won't
function effectively.

The water first passes through a large sponge, then a fine
carbon-impregnated
sponge, and is then pumped up to a very fine drip tray screen where it
trickles
through partially submerged sintered glass rings.

This biological media sits within strong mesh bags, rather than being
loose in
the media baskets, which makes it much easier to clean. The overall
biological
media volume is a massive 1080cm3, which works out at 5.65cm3 per litre.

The instructions give very sensible advice about cleaning and replacing
the
media, and are fairly easy to follow. Since the media is lifted out from
the
top of the filter, it may be very difficult to install and maintain if you
have
a tank with wide sills or strengthening bars. It may even be impossible to
fit
in some tanks.

There's a holder on one side to take a heater thermostat, which protects
it
from damage and places it in a position where it receives a good flow of
water.
Unlike the previous version of the Biolife, there's no heater supplied
with
the unit itself, which accounts for its lower price.

The pump is fitted with an overflow spout which diverts some of the water
into
the top of the trickle filter and forms a makeshift handle for removing
the
pump. Past experience with old Biolifes has shown that this is a weak
spot.

There's lots of media here, and Hagen recommends that you change certain
items quite regularly. This means that running costs could be quite high
if you
follow them to the word.

As far as biological filtration goes, we think that the Biolife is one of
the
best internals on the market. It is, however, much more bulky and
obtrusive.
The Fluval Biolife sells for £59.99.

Verdict
What's Hot Loads of media. Space for a heater.
What's Not Bulky and hard to install in some tanks. Running costs could
be
high.

Quality 60%
Instructions 70%
Ease of use 60%
Impeller access 50%
Features 70%
Design 70%
Guarantee 60%
Price 60%
Media 95%
Value for money 60%
Overall 66%

Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

I already have a Fluval 204 on my (heavily) planted 29g tank, but I've
developed this paranoia about one of the hoses disconnecting. Silly,
I know. Anyway, for that reason I've been musing about using an
internal filter rather than a canister filter.

Well, in that case, maybe it's worth a try.

Also, although I try
to be disciplined about it, I think I'd maintain an internal filter
more frequently than a canister filter. Having to (quick-)disconnect
the hoses increases my afore-mentioned paranoia, and it's a pain to
carry the contraption to the sink, etc.

I only have to clean my filter once every six months or so. (I have a foam
prefilter over the intake that I rinse weekly.)

I have an Aquaclear 300 on my 29 gallon tank. It's a HOB filter, with no
hoses. Of course, it's not a CO2 injected tank.

Have you considered going no-filter? Maybe just a submerged powerhead, to keep
the water moving. You'll have plants to serve as your filter.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

Don't think you need to be concerned about the hoses disconnecting. I have
never even heard of such happening. I have two canister filters including a
Fluval 204 which are both very reliable. I also use foam prefilters on
each, which are cleaned weekly and help to extend the time between cleanings
of the canisters.

--
Bob Alston
918.494.4913

http://members.cox.net/tulsaalstons/
"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
I already have a Fluval 204 on my (heavily) planted 29g tank, but I've
developed this paranoia about one of the hoses disconnecting. Silly,
I know. Anyway, for that reason I've been musing about using an
internal filter rather than a canister filter.

Well, in that case, maybe it's worth a try.

Also, although I try
to be disciplined about it, I think I'd maintain an internal filter
more frequently than a canister filter. Having to (quick-)disconnect
the hoses increases my afore-mentioned paranoia, and it's a pain to
carry the contraption to the sink, etc.

I only have to clean my filter once every six months or so. (I have a
foam
prefilter over the intake that I rinse weekly.)

I have an Aquaclear 300 on my 29 gallon tank. It's a HOB filter, with no
hoses. Of course, it's not a CO2 injected tank.

Have you considered going no-filter? Maybe just a submerged powerhead, to
keep
the water moving. You'll have plants to serve as your filter.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/


---
Bob's Dell 4400 - Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 8/4/2003

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

Hagen BioLife internal wet/dry filter?
 

On 8/8/03 8:20 PM, in article
, "Dave"
wrote:

Have you considered going no-filter? Maybe just a submerged powerhead, to
keep
the water moving. You'll have plants to serve as your filter.

I have considered this, though I've heard that even in a heavily
planted tank, one should have a low fishload if there is no other
biological filter. My tank has a fairly high fishload and I'll
probably keep it that way.

If you've got a powerhead, though, there's no reason not to add a
quickfilter to it, pop some random biocrud of your choice in one or both of
the internal chambers if you're one that tends to change the media that
comes with it pretty often, and there you go...

If you do leave the BioLife in, while it takes up a lot of space, it also
can provide a bit of a cave for some of your fish underneath, especially if
you've got plants in front of it...