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#1
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi...
I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#3
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
From: (Nick D)
Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. A good temporary fix is to buy some Phos-Zorb and and put the pouch in your filter. But you really need to find the cause. The most obvious suspect is over-feeding. Nick Wise http://members.aol.com/nwwise01 |
#4
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post -- **So long, and thanks for all the fish!** "Nick D" wrote in message om... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#5
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post -- **So long, and thanks for all the fish!** "Nick D" wrote in message om... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#6
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post -- **So long, and thanks for all the fish!** "Nick D" wrote in message om... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#7
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post -- **So long, and thanks for all the fish!** "Nick D" wrote in message om... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#8
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post -- **So long, and thanks for all the fish!** "Nick D" wrote in message om... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
#9
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
In addition to light and CO2, plants need nutrients to grow. Nutrients are
divided into two categories: Macro Nutrients: Nitrogen, Phosphate, & Nitrogen Micro Nutrients: Trace elements (iron, zinc, etc ..) In the presence of good light and CO2 levels, the plants will grow until one or more nutrients is expended. At that time, they will stop growing (and consuming nutrients) even though other nutrients are abundant. In your case, the limiting nutrient seems to be Nitrogen (nitrate levels are very low). It is understandable that your plants stopped growing or slowed down. Unfortunately, unlike plants, algae can fix its own nitrogen and can therefore continue to grow in the absence of nitrogen as long as the remaining nutrients are available (all in the presence of light and CO2). Therefore, what you need to do is make sure that there is ample supply of nitrogen (as nitrate), potassium and trace elements. Eventually, all of the available phosphate is consumed by the plants (and algae) and phosphate becomes the growth limiting factor. At that stage, your plants -being the dominant macro organisms- will be able to out-compete the algae for the available phosphate. The algae disappears. In summary - Add Nitrate to 5-10 ppm - raise the level slowly over a course of a week (after you have dealt with the excess phosphate) - Add Trace elements using a kit like SeaChem Flourish - Some people suggest the addition of potassium as K2S04 or KCl to make sure potassium is in ample supply - Maintain your current levels of light and CO2 Your phosphate levels should always be near zero (0). If growth becomes too hindered, you can control it using very small doses of phosphate from a source such as fish food or fleet enema In the short term, however, you need to reduce your phosphates in order to arrest the algae bloom using one of the available products on the market. And, get rid of the carbon filter, it absorbs your micro nutrients (trace elements) making them the limiting growth factor. Don't forget the weekly 25% + water changes to dilute any excess nutrients you've added to ensure they are in ample supply. |
#10
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
In addition to light and CO2, plants need nutrients to grow. Nutrients are
divided into two categories: Macro Nutrients: Nitrogen, Phosphate, & Nitrogen Micro Nutrients: Trace elements (iron, zinc, etc ..) In the presence of good light and CO2 levels, the plants will grow until one or more nutrients is expended. At that time, they will stop growing (and consuming nutrients) even though other nutrients are abundant. In your case, the limiting nutrient seems to be Nitrogen (nitrate levels are very low). It is understandable that your plants stopped growing or slowed down. Unfortunately, unlike plants, algae can fix its own nitrogen and can therefore continue to grow in the absence of nitrogen as long as the remaining nutrients are available (all in the presence of light and CO2). Therefore, what you need to do is make sure that there is ample supply of nitrogen (as nitrate), potassium and trace elements. Eventually, all of the available phosphate is consumed by the plants (and algae) and phosphate becomes the growth limiting factor. At that stage, your plants -being the dominant macro organisms- will be able to out-compete the algae for the available phosphate. The algae disappears. In summary - Add Nitrate to 5-10 ppm - raise the level slowly over a course of a week (after you have dealt with the excess phosphate) - Add Trace elements using a kit like SeaChem Flourish - Some people suggest the addition of potassium as K2S04 or KCl to make sure potassium is in ample supply - Maintain your current levels of light and CO2 Your phosphate levels should always be near zero (0). If growth becomes too hindered, you can control it using very small doses of phosphate from a source such as fish food or fleet enema In the short term, however, you need to reduce your phosphates in order to arrest the algae bloom using one of the available products on the market. And, get rid of the carbon filter, it absorbs your micro nutrients (trace elements) making them the limiting growth factor. Don't forget the weekly 25% + water changes to dilute any excess nutrients you've added to ensure they are in ample supply. |
#11
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post Cam, I had to thank you for that explanation... I've saved it because I want to use it later, it will add to my pile of useful info I've collected over the years... and Nemo, you're post has also been saved....Thanks. -- RedForeman ©® Sorry about the troll, the ball is rolling there.... |
#12
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post Cam, I had to thank you for that explanation... I've saved it because I want to use it later, it will add to my pile of useful info I've collected over the years... and Nemo, you're post has also been saved....Thanks. -- RedForeman ©® Sorry about the troll, the ball is rolling there.... |
#13
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
In addition to light and CO2, plants need nutrients to grow. Nutrients are
divided into two categories: Macro Nutrients: Nitrogen, Phosphate, & Nitrogen Micro Nutrients: Trace elements (iron, zinc, etc ..) In the presence of good light and CO2 levels, the plants will grow until one or more nutrients is expended. At that time, they will stop growing (and consuming nutrients) even though other nutrients are abundant. In your case, the limiting nutrient seems to be Nitrogen (nitrate levels are very low). It is understandable that your plants stopped growing or slowed down. Unfortunately, unlike plants, algae can fix its own nitrogen and can therefore continue to grow in the absence of nitrogen as long as the remaining nutrients are available (all in the presence of light and CO2). Therefore, what you need to do is make sure that there is ample supply of nitrogen (as nitrate), potassium and trace elements. Eventually, all of the available phosphate is consumed by the plants (and algae) and phosphate becomes the growth limiting factor. At that stage, your plants -being the dominant macro organisms- will be able to out-compete the algae for the available phosphate. The algae disappears. In summary - Add Nitrate to 5-10 ppm - raise the level slowly over a course of a week (after you have dealt with the excess phosphate) - Add Trace elements using a kit like SeaChem Flourish - Some people suggest the addition of potassium as K2S04 or KCl to make sure potassium is in ample supply - Maintain your current levels of light and CO2 Your phosphate levels should always be near zero (0). If growth becomes too hindered, you can control it using very small doses of phosphate from a source such as fish food or fleet enema In the short term, however, you need to reduce your phosphates in order to arrest the algae bloom using one of the available products on the market. And, get rid of the carbon filter, it absorbs your micro nutrients (trace elements) making them the limiting growth factor. Don't forget the weekly 25% + water changes to dilute any excess nutrients you've added to ensure they are in ample supply. |
#14
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
Hi there
Ditch one of your tubes, 3.5 watts per gallon is a tad on the bright side. Try 2 WPG or near to there. Your co2 is not keeping up (20ppm) with this ammount of light. Maybe cut an hour out of the photo period aswell. Ditch the activated carbon aswell, no use for it in a planted tank. You might be TOO RELIGIOUS with your maintenance routine , Are you adding Nitrates back to the tank after water changes? If your N is 0-5ppm then your plants are starving. There is a relationship between N & P, I would say that your Nitrates are being used up too quickly therefore leaving the available Phosphate to float around the water column... IME Root stix are a disaster, this may be adding to the phosphate levels you report. Try and vacuum some of them out. If your tank is only 6 weeks old you might want to give it a bit of time until you have some mulm build up before seeing any good signs in the plants! You will have to start dosing Macro ferts in the water column as I think your gravel may still be a bit sterile for plants to inhabit happily. You must start adding ferts asap, your plants are starving. Go to the pharmacy/drug store/chemist and buy the following: But before adding ferts, ALWAYS make sure that your co2 levels are high and are stable. Add another bottle if you have to, according to Tom Barr you want to shoot for about 30ppm in the morning and try and keep it there, if you are at 20ppm in the evening this would be ok. Salt Petre (Pottassium Nitrate or KNO3) dose 1 level teaspoon twice a week. This will take care of Pottassium aswell as Nitrates. No-Salt contains Pottassium Chloride and could be added as an extra dose but probably not necessary. You can get fleet enema as a phosphate source (when your levels come down), dose 3 drops twice weekly. You can use Epsom salts as a Magnesium source, Or dolomite pills/powder as a calcium & Magnesium source at the correct ratios. Im not sure about the dosing quantity for this one, I let the plants indicate a calcium deficiency by looking at the leaves on Hygro Polysperma, they get "wrinkled". Of course not to forget your micro ferts which can be bought at any LFS, take your pick, I've used Kent and Sera ferts and they seem to work well! Hows that for a long winded post Cam, I had to thank you for that explanation... I've saved it because I want to use it later, it will add to my pile of useful info I've collected over the years... and Nemo, you're post has also been saved....Thanks. -- RedForeman ©® Sorry about the troll, the ball is rolling there.... |
#15
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Need Help!! Phosphate readings off the chart!
If it's not in the tap water then your plant spikes are leaking
phosphates. How thick is the substrate and what kind of plant sticks are you using? Also what kind of gravel do you have? (the larger the grain the easier it is for elements to come out of the substrates). Everything else sounds good to me. Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio (Nick D) wrote in message . com... Hi... I just picked up a new Hagen Nitrate and Phosphate test kit for my 29gal. I just re-started my tank with fresh gravel and new plants and lights. I have 95watts, and DIY C02. I also completed a 50% water change yesterday, and another 25% waterchange today, because of a small thread/ hair algae outbreak. So I wanted to make sure my water was clean before testing. The tank has been running for 6 weeks, cycled and has a good bacteria load going for sure. Maintenance is kept up religiously. Plants were growing for a couple of weeks, but are showing signs of slowing down, and yellowing. Readings are as follows: (after water change) Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrate: 0-5ppm Phosphate: 5ppm+ K:?? Nitrite: 0ppm PH: 7.0 GH: 8deg Kh: 9deg c02: ~20ppm temp:78 Fish load minimal: (4 Cardinals, Pleco, and a Cory) Problem here is obviously the Phosphate!! I tested my tap water and it came back zero. Then I did a test in the tank (after the water change), and it was off the scale?!! I dont get it! Something is really leaking Phosphate into my tank...and I dont know what? I have fertilizer spikes under the plants which have Phosphate in them, but they are way under the gravel and are never disturbed. Someone told me that Activated Carbon in your filter releases Phosphate, but I found that hard to believe as Activated Carbon is supposed to suck up nutrients rather than release them right??? I'm really stuck on this one! Can anyone give a list of possible sources of Phosphate, that I might not be considering. At present, I am not dosing any ferts, and havent since start up. The phosphate just magically appears for no reason! Thx in advance, Nick. |
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