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Old 10-07-2004, 02:02 AM
Rico
 
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Default brown algae-how to control with live plants

I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set
up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life
compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is
Ph 7.0
dKH 4
dGH 10
Nitrites 0
Amonia 0
Nitrates 80

For the first two weeks my KH was only 1 or 2. I've always used R/O
water but this I decided to mix some tap with R/O to raise it. The KH
rose to 4 but I think I stressed the fish to much with the water
changes because many of them developed ick. At that point, I began
treatment with meds and bought a heater to raise the temp 85. Shortly
thereafter, i began to notice brown algae on plants.

I have a few questions.

If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4?

What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on
so the water temp does not drop during the night?

What can I use to eliminate the algae?

BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the
jungle fizz from a friend.

Thanks

Jerry

PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid
to prevent spam.



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Old 10-07-2004, 04:03 AM
Bruce Geist
 
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Default brown algae-how to control with live plants

One teaspon of baking soda per 12 gallons should raise KH by about 4 degrees
KH. Remember that manipulating KH has an affect on PH. If you are going to
monitor PH to control CO2 levels, getting an undestanding of this is
critical.

You have a lot of light on in your tank without CO2. You should have CO2
running with that much light, and while you do not, I recommend reducing
light levels, say to 1 watt per gallon or so. Otherwise, you will really
have endless trouble. Many plants will do fine at the reduced lighting
level, especially if it is only temporary.

Basically, you control algae by making conditions for higher plants highly
favorable for growth. This means you need to systematically ensure all the
major components are in place to make your plants grow. Proper nutrients,
including CO2 and lighting, are critical. When you are missing any major
component, you will find higher plants can suffer and as a result, algae, of
one kind or another, will thrive.

I suggest you take a look at Chuck Gadds web site. Read his articles on
starting up a new tank, and on plant nutrients. His site is located at URL
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/. Also see the Krib at
http://www.thekrib.com/. There is also information about controlling CO2
based on knowledge of PH and KH at Chuck's web site also. Chuck even has a
free windows based nutrient calculator available. Take a look..


Bruce Geist

http://www.wideopenwest.com/~brucegeist


"Rico" wrote in message
...
I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set
up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life
compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is
Ph 7.0
dKH 4
dGH 10
Nitrites 0
Amonia 0
Nitrates 80

For the first two weeks my KH was only 1 or 2. I've always used R/O
water but this I decided to mix some tap with R/O to raise it. The KH
rose to 4 but I think I stressed the fish to much with the water
changes because many of them developed ick. At that point, I began
treatment with meds and bought a heater to raise the temp 85. Shortly
thereafter, i began to notice brown algae on plants.

I have a few questions.

If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4?

What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on
so the water temp does not drop during the night?

What can I use to eliminate the algae?

BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the
jungle fizz from a friend.

Thanks

Jerry

PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid
to prevent spam.




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Old 10-07-2004, 07:06 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default brown algae-how to control with live plants

Rico wrote in message . ..
I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set
up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life
compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is
Ph 7.0
dKH 4
dGH 10
Nitrites 0
Amonia 0
Nitrates 80


Too much NO3 and too much light.
If you are using CO2, this is still a huge amount of light.
Without CO2 it is a recipe for algae and problems.
1/2 this amount of lighting would be better and fine with a CO2
enriched tank.
50-70% weekly water changes will correct things for you.
What is wrong with your tap water BTW?
Why use RO and go through all that hassle?
Is it for the fish?

Plants do better in harder water.
Fish will not stress out due to hard water increases of say 2-4KH.
Altums and Discus did fine.
Something else is causing the fish ick, maybe 80ppm of NO3.....

Otto cats will eat brown algae, diatoms.

If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4?


As said, baking soda.

What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on
so the water temp does not drop during the night?


2 degrees perhaps.

What can I use to eliminate the algae?


Grow the plants and have lots of them.

BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the
jungle fizz from a friend.


That's not going to do much on a 230 w, 4+ w/gal PC lighted tank.
You need a decent gas system, a KH of about 3 and a GH of about 5 or
so.
With a KH of 3, your pH target by adding CO2 gas ONLY, will be 6.5.
Try and keep this pH using only CO2 gas while the lights are on and
keep it close to this pH the entire time the lights are on. 6.5-6.6 is
your target range for a KH of 3.

Regards,
Tom Barr


Thanks

Jerry

PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid
to prevent spam.

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Old 10-07-2004, 08:08 PM
Rico
 
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Default brown algae-how to control with live plants

I live in Florida and the water seems to be on the hard side. Here are
the results of my tap water.
Ph 7.4-7.6
dKH 9
dGH 15
Nitrates 0
Would you still recommend using the tap or stick with the R/o and add
baking soda to it to raise it's KH?

My CO2 system should be here by the middle of next week. These are the
components:
1 sms 122 co2 automatic shutoff made by milwaukee
1 CO2 Regulator with needle valve, solenoid valve, and bubble counter.
Dual guage regulator displays output pressure and bottle pressure.
Standard American CO2 bottle connection. made by milwaukee
1 Reactor 1000 co2 reactor Aqua Medic

BTW, Thanks for the websites. They are full of good info.

Rico

On 10 Jul 2004 10:54:45 -0700,
) wrote:

Rico wrote in message . ..
I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set
up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life
compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is
Ph 7.0
dKH 4
dGH 10
Nitrites 0
Amonia 0
Nitrates 80


Too much NO3 and too much light.
If you are using CO2, this is still a huge amount of light.
Without CO2 it is a recipe for algae and problems.
1/2 this amount of lighting would be better and fine with a CO2
enriched tank.
50-70% weekly water changes will correct things for you.
What is wrong with your tap water BTW?
Why use RO and go through all that hassle?
Is it for the fish?

Plants do better in harder water.
Fish will not stress out due to hard water increases of say 2-4KH.
Altums and Discus did fine.
Something else is causing the fish ick, maybe 80ppm of NO3.....

Otto cats will eat brown algae, diatoms.

If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4?


As said, baking soda.

What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on
so the water temp does not drop during the night?


2 degrees perhaps.

What can I use to eliminate the algae?


Grow the plants and have lots of them.

BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the
jungle fizz from a friend.


That's not going to do much on a 230 w, 4+ w/gal PC lighted tank.
You need a decent gas system, a KH of about 3 and a GH of about 5 or
so.
With a KH of 3, your pH target by adding CO2 gas ONLY, will be 6.5.
Try and keep this pH using only CO2 gas while the lights are on and
keep it close to this pH the entire time the lights are on. 6.5-6.6 is
your target range for a KH of 3.

Regards,
Tom Barr


Thanks

Jerry

PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid
to prevent spam.


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Old 12-07-2004, 11:03 AM
Geezer From The Freezer
 
Posts: n/a
Default brown algae-how to control with live plants

Your new C02 system will probably drive your PH down anyway.

Rico wrote:

I live in Florida and the water seems to be on the hard side. Here are
the results of my tap water.
Ph 7.4-7.6
dKH 9
dGH 15
Nitrates 0
Would you still recommend using the tap or stick with the R/o and add
baking soda to it to raise it's KH?

My CO2 system should be here by the middle of next week. These are the
components:



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