To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please

"alex skol" wrote in message
...
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please



I can only think that possibly your filter died during the move and your
nitrifying bacteria has not had a chance to build up a sufficient population
yet. You probably have alot of ammonium floating around the water column.
Add more plants if you can. Definitely do BIG (50-70%) water changes once or
better yet twice a week. It will calm down, you just have to be patient.
Whatever you do don't add any algaecides to the mess. If you have access to
a diatom filter use it, or micronized filter cartridges will remove some of
the GW algae. Otherwise just keep up on the WC'S and be patient!!!
Good luck.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**

|| To all experts in the N G
|| Water become green after i moved to a new house
|| within same town same municipal water.
||
|| PH 6.8
|| hardnes 3
|| add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
|| and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
|| iron&manganese about week ago.
|| 30 gal tank with some plants
|| 55 wat flur. light
|| water dark green.
|| any sagestions please

water changes, water changes water changes... start changing the water @ 10g
every 3 days, no more fertilizers...

You kicked the balance WAY over to one side, the algae side, and to recover,
you must remove all the extra nutrients from the water...

When you've done several water changes, start adding ferts in smaller
amounts, measuring it's effect on the water. Start out slowly, building on
what you know....

--
| RedForeman ©® fabricator and creator of the ratbike streetfighter!!!
| ==========================
| 2003 TRX450ES
| 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale)
| '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted....
| ==========================
| ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø
| ((((º`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·.¸. ((((º ·´¯`·. , .·´¯`·.. ((((º
| for any questions you may have....
| www.gmail.com

In message , Happy'Cam'per
writes
"alex skol" wrote in message
...
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please



I can only think that possibly your filter died during the move and your
nitrifying bacteria has not had a chance to build up a sufficient population
yet.

Might it not be that boosting the nitrates has encouraged algae growth?
--
sophie
who knows nothing

"alex skol" wrote in message
...
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please




stop fertilization, do several large water changes and run a diatom filter
if you can get one. When the water clears , start dosing again but at lower
levels. Nothing wrong with 10ppm of nitrate if you plants are using it but
try 5ppm when the water clears.

Rick

"Rick" wrote in message ...
"alex skol" wrote in message
...
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please




stop fertilization, do several large water changes and run a diatom filter
if you can get one. When the water clears , start dosing again but at lower
levels. Nothing wrong with 10ppm of nitrate if you plants are using it but
try 5ppm when the water clears.

Rick


Hey!
Green water is always cause by a shock to the biofilter. Say, for
example, if you mix up the gravel, do a trimming, and rinse the filter
media (in tank water!) you have stirred up the ammonia levels which
activate the suspended algae and they grow off the ammonia
spike...once it starts its hard as hell to get them to turn off again.
Since you said you moved, you tank probably went into shock and your
filter couldn't handle the little ammonia spike. You cant measure the
ammonia spike because its momentary and not readable by any kit that
the average consumer can get...

I had GW for 3 weeks, and I finally burned it out..heres how.

Low light levels for a week or so...on for only 3 hrs a day or so
Absoletly NO FERTS!!
Added back some bio bacteria via startup kit bottle from pet store
very small amounts of food
crank the CO2
and most important..riduculous amounts of 90% water changes 2x a week

everytime I started to see the water turn hazy....90% water change.

Eventually the Bio filter will be able to catch back up to the tank
balance and you can begin to ramp ferts, lights, food, etc, back up
very, very slowly

Hope that helps

Peace!
Nick

|| Hey!
|| Green water is always cause by a shock to the biofilter. Say, for

can't say always... because it's NOT always.... green water is caused by one
of a few things, imbalance in water...either ferts, filter or lights...

--
| RedForeman ©® fabricator and creator of the ratbike streetfighter!!!
| ==========================
| 2003 TRX450ES
| 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale)
| '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted....
| ==========================
| ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø
| ((((º`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·.¸. ((((º ·´¯`·. , .·´¯`·.. ((((º
| for any questions you may have....
| www.gmail.com

"Nick D" wrote in message
om...
"Rick" wrote in message
...
"alex skol" wrote in message
...
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please




stop fertilization, do several large water changes and run a diatom
filter
if you can get one. When the water clears , start dosing again but
at lower
levels. Nothing wrong with 10ppm of nitrate if you plants are using
it but
try 5ppm when the water clears.

Rick


Hey!
Green water is always cause by a shock to the biofilter. Say, for
example, if you mix up the gravel, do a trimming, and rinse the filter
media (in tank water!) you have stirred up the ammonia levels which
activate the suspended algae and they grow off the ammonia
spike...once it starts its hard as hell to get them to turn off again.
Since you said you moved, you tank probably went into shock and your
filter couldn't handle the little ammonia spike. You cant measure the
ammonia spike because its momentary and not readable by any kit that
the average consumer can get...

I had GW for 3 weeks, and I finally burned it out..heres how.

Low light levels for a week or so...on for only 3 hrs a day or so
Absoletly NO FERTS!!
Added back some bio bacteria via startup kit bottle from pet store
very small amounts of food
crank the CO2
and most important..riduculous amounts of 90% water changes 2x a week

everytime I started to see the water turn hazy....90% water change.

Eventually the Bio filter will be able to catch back up to the tank
balance and you can begin to ramp ferts, lights, food, etc, back up
very, very slowly

Hope that helps

Peace!
Nick

Not sure what suddenly caused Algae blooms in my tanks over the
years....others have been speculating quite admirably concerning it. My
final solution was a cheap 8 watt hang on the tank UV driven by a very
small submersible water pump. It was like 150 gph and was adjustable to
reduce the rate as needed.

I would just hang it on and run it for a couple days and it was
gone....usually for years at a time.

"RedForeman ©®" wrote in message
...
|| Hey!
|| Green water is always cause by a shock to the biofilter. Say, for

can't say always... because it's NOT always.... green water is caused by
one
of a few things, imbalance in water...either ferts, filter or lights...

--
| RedForeman ©® fabricator and creator of the ratbike streetfighter!!!


quite so Red. There are many ideas as to why green water shows up but it is
normally a deficiency of some sort. If nitrate is limited n a planted tank
and phosphate is too high from either dosing or overfeeding then green water
thrives. Correct this by cutting down on feeding and adding more nitrates
combined with water changes and the green water will disappear. On the other
hand , if nitrates are not limited but are out of balance then green water
also thrives and nitrate dosing must be cut back. It is simply a matter of
checking different things to find out the solution. U.V will eliminate green
water as it kills the free floating algae however if the reason for the
green water is not corrected it will always come back.

Rick

Knowing the cause isn't all that important, the first thing to do is
eliminate the algae, then bring all your nutrient levels back into
proper ranges...but first get rid of the algae. Here's a webpage that
describes five fairly easy and/or quick methods to remove green water.

http://www.aquariaplants.com/cloudygreenwater.htm


alex skol wrote:
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please

quite so Red. There are many ideas as to why green water shows up but it is
normally a deficiency of some sort.

No, it's directly too much NH4, this is the one thing that will cause
algae if it is allowed to get too high(which ain't that much).
NO3, limited tanks are common, so are CO2 limitations and PO4
limitations and Fe etc.

These tanks do not get GW. I can induce GW easily everytime with NH4
dosing.
I've NEVER been able to show this with limiting any of the above
nutrients except for NH4.

If nitrate is limited n a planted tank
and phosphate is too high from either dosing or overfeeding then green water
thrives.

There is one part here, the feeding. This waste is first NH4, hence
the GW, but if you isolate the issue(Remove the fish), and use
inorganic forms of NO3 and seperately NH4, then the issue becomes
clearer. I've done this for years. The results are the same every
time.

Correct this by cutting down on feeding and adding more nitrates
combined with water changes and the green water will disappear. On the other
hand , if nitrates are not limited but are out of balance then green water
also thrives and nitrate dosing must be cut back.

No, this was not true either. I went to 75ppm of NO3 in effort to
induce GW, no green water after over 3 week peroid.

Few people have ever solve their GW issues through water changes even
after 6-12 months.Your plants will die of starvation before you beat
GW.

It is simply a matter of
checking different things to find out the solution. U.V will eliminate green
water as it kills the free floating algae however if the reason for the
green water is not corrected it will always come back.

Generally it's due to the substrate disturbance and a temporary spike
of NH4.
If the fish load is too high or the plants are limited(hence
indirectly do not take up NH4) then this will also cause a longer term
issue.

UV's are my method of choice, but are not cheap.
Hagen quick Filter are 5 microns ad can be used. So can the cheap
pleated cartiages that fit the 9 3/4" filters they sell at Lowes, Home
Depot etc for about 20$ for everything, add a powerhead or filter etc
to that.
Diatoms also are great.

If you have lower light, generally less than 2.5 w/gal or NO FL's and
not CF's, then you can use the blackout method fairly well.

As far as decaying algae, haha....come on....that's plant food now and
the biomass is tiny if you filter out all the GW you could and saw how
little biomass is there, it's very small and rather insignificant in
terms of decay.
Most do a 50-80% water change prior to shock the algae some and remove
some of it's biomass.

Average size of GW is about 2-3 microns. So 5 micron filtering works
well after it clogs a little.

Regards,
Tom Barr









Rick

You need to find out the source whats causing is correct.
I always find adding a fast growing plant like Water Sprite helps alot as
well.As it removes excess nutients from the water column.
" wrote in message
om...
quite so Red. There are many ideas as to why green water shows up but it
is
normally a deficiency of some sort.

No, it's directly too much NH4, this is the one thing that will cause
algae if it is allowed to get too high(which ain't that much).
NO3, limited tanks are common, so are CO2 limitations and PO4
limitations and Fe etc.

These tanks do not get GW. I can induce GW easily everytime with NH4
dosing.
I've NEVER been able to show this with limiting any of the above
nutrients except for NH4.

If nitrate is limited n a planted tank
and phosphate is too high from either dosing or overfeeding then green
water
thrives.

There is one part here, the feeding. This waste is first NH4, hence
the GW, but if you isolate the issue(Remove the fish), and use
inorganic forms of NO3 and seperately NH4, then the issue becomes
clearer. I've done this for years. The results are the same every
time.

Correct this by cutting down on feeding and adding more nitrates
combined with water changes and the green water will disappear. On the
other
hand , if nitrates are not limited but are out of balance then green
water
also thrives and nitrate dosing must be cut back.

No, this was not true either. I went to 75ppm of NO3 in effort to
induce GW, no green water after over 3 week peroid.

Few people have ever solve their GW issues through water changes even
after 6-12 months.Your plants will die of starvation before you beat
GW.

It is simply a matter of
checking different things to find out the solution. U.V will eliminate
green
water as it kills the free floating algae however if the reason for the
green water is not corrected it will always come back.

Generally it's due to the substrate disturbance and a temporary spike
of NH4.
If the fish load is too high or the plants are limited(hence
indirectly do not take up NH4) then this will also cause a longer term
issue.

UV's are my method of choice, but are not cheap.
Hagen quick Filter are 5 microns ad can be used. So can the cheap
pleated cartiages that fit the 9 3/4" filters they sell at Lowes, Home
Depot etc for about 20$ for everything, add a powerhead or filter etc
to that.
Diatoms also are great.

If you have lower light, generally less than 2.5 w/gal or NO FL's and
not CF's, then you can use the blackout method fairly well.

As far as decaying algae, haha....come on....that's plant food now and
the biomass is tiny if you filter out all the GW you could and saw how
little biomass is there, it's very small and rather insignificant in
terms of decay.
Most do a 50-80% water change prior to shock the algae some and remove
some of it's biomass.

Average size of GW is about 2-3 microns. So 5 micron filtering works
well after it clogs a little.

Regards,
Tom Barr









Rick

"Paul Cimins" wrote in message et...
You need to find out the source whats causing is correct.
I always find adding a fast growing plant like Water Sprite helps alot as
well.As it removes excess nutients from the water column.

Algae are not limited by excess nutrients in a planted tank's water
column, except in terms of NH4. There is a 3 way fight/competition for
this form of N by plants, bacteria and algae.

You can add everything else BUT NH4 and never get any GW to induce a
bloom. Even at high levels of NO3 and PO4, I was still unable to
produce GW for many year. It was only after NH4 dosing did it occur.

Anything that causes the NH4 level to rise and reduces it's rate of
uptake allows a chance for it to build up enough to induce a GW bloom.
New tanks with lots of light often have this occur due to, folks doing
fishless cycling with NH4, poor plant growth and poor bacterial
cycling, adding mulm and taking care of of plant needs and not adding
NH4.

As sugested: Water sprite (floating)is especially great since it
blocks the light and is a super fast grower and able to remove NH4
quickly, floating it has plenty of light and CO2, one of my fvorite
plants for new tanks but not needed really if you use mulm and add
enough CO2 and plant biomass from the start up.


Regards,
Tom Barr

Thanks for reply.
I did a 100% water change and it stay clear for two days after that green
took over.
Now tring UV lamp over outside filter will report on progress.
Tanks again for the sugestions
"Steve Hampton" wrote in message
...
Knowing the cause isn't all that important, the first thing to do is
eliminate the algae, then bring all your nutrient levels back into
proper ranges...but first get rid of the algae. Here's a webpage that
describes five fairly easy and/or quick methods to remove green water.

http://www.aquariaplants.com/cloudygreenwater.htm


alex skol wrote:
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please

My UV is of a design that the water flows extremely close to the bulb.
The design is made to sterilize the water as it goes through it. Mine
is 8 watt and has a protective quartz sleeve to prevent cool water from
breaking the bulb. I mean the water flows right past the bulb inside a
PVC tube.

Sounds like you have a sunlamp...which will be interesting in seeing if
it does squat....
good luck...


"alex skol" wrote in message
...
Thanks for reply.
I did a 100% water change and it stay clear for two days after that
green
took over.
Now tring UV lamp over outside filter will report on progress.
Tanks again for the sugestions
"Steve Hampton" wrote in message
...
Knowing the cause isn't all that important, the first thing to do is
eliminate the algae, then bring all your nutrient levels back into
proper ranges...but first get rid of the algae. Here's a webpage
that
describes five fairly easy and/or quick methods to remove green
water.

http://www.aquariaplants.com/cloudygreenwater.htm


alex skol wrote:
To all experts in the N G
Water become green after i moved to a new house
within same town same municipal water.

PH 6.8
hardnes 3
add "kent fresh water pro-plant to boost nitrate to 10ppm
and add flora pride +kent freshwater plant micronutrients wit
iron&manganese
about week ago.
30 gal tank with some plants
55 wat flur. light
water dark green.
any sagestions please