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Algae damn
Topic says it all. I'm in a life or death struggle with algae in my
big tank. The two twentys are in fine shape. The cork tank is newly set up, the honeymoon suite, now nursery, is also clean and brite. The 55g, now that's another story. It's been going the longest, has the highest fish load, the most plants, the most light, and the most fuzzy hair algae I've ever seen. All the plants are (were) covered with it now. Also, to add to the ugliness and unkempt look, I've got a nice crop of blue green bacteria trying it's best to cover up my new dwarf marsh grass. I took two steps yesterday to combat both. On the one front, I re-positioned my power head to provide more circluation. It had been pointing down an UGF lift tube hole for RUGF. Now it pushes water accross the entire front wall of the tank, providing a circular flow. To take on the fuzz, I tried the bleach dip approach. I have java fern, Amazon swords and Crypts that are afflicted. The newer plants I've added show minimal signs. So, out come half the swords, the larger cruyts and all the java fern. Into a bucket of 19:1 water to bleach for 4 minutes. The algae was visibly affected, turning white and quite dead looking. The plants seemed no worse for wear. After the rinse, they are back in the tank and pearling O2. Now a question: How to keep the stuff at bay? Here's the set up: 55g tank, 48L 20H 12W pH 6.7 with C02 injection at 20ppm KH 3deg temp 79f Nitrates between 5 and 20, fluctuate with the amount of KNO3 I add. Potassium and Phosphorus added minimally per the dosing pages. I shoot for the optimun amount. There are a couple of plant spikes (trace elements) deep under the large plants. I've got 5 ottos in there, and just added a couple of large amano shrimp, but those critters aren't going to touch this fuzz stuff if it comes back strong like this past week. thanks for any hints, suggestions, steve |
In article .com,
steve wrote: Topic says it all. I'm in a life or death struggle with algae in my big tank. The two twentys are in fine shape. The cork tank is newly When I have a green mess Ichange 80% of the water eevry day till it clears up. Usually 4-5 days, they 50% every other day so the gravel leeches out properly. It's always worked for me so far. Give it a try. -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
"steve" wrote in message oups.com... Now a question: How to keep the stuff at bay? Here's the set up: 55g tank, 48L 20H 12W pH 6.7 with C02 injection at 20ppm KH 3deg temp 79f Nitrates between 5 and 20, fluctuate with the amount of KNO3 I add. Potassium and Phosphorus added minimally per the dosing pages. I shoot for the optimun amount. There are a couple of plant spikes (trace elements) deep under the large plants. I've got 5 ottos in there, and just added a couple of large amano shrimp, but those critters aren't going to touch this fuzz stuff if it comes back strong like this past week. thanks for any hints, suggestions, Are you over feeding? It doesn't sound like anything other than that to me, unless there is something in your water out of the tap. Oz -- My Aquatic web Blog is at http://members.optusnet.com.au/ivan.smith |
On 2005-01-17, steve wrote:
Now a question: How to keep the stuff at bay? Here's the set up: 55g tank, 48L 20H 12W pH 6.7 with C02 injection at 20ppm KH 3deg temp 79f Nitrates between 5 and 20, fluctuate with the amount of KNO3 I add. Potassium and Phosphorus added minimally per the dosing pages. I shoot for the optimun amount. There are a couple of plant spikes (trace elements) deep under the large plants. Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. Keep up the Potassium. Remove algae infected foliage as convenient. You'll just have to be patient. http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it.
ALL fishfood? -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
On 2005-01-18, Richard wrote:
Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. ALL fishfood? Absolutely! ;-) -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
In article , js1 wrote:
On 2005-01-18, Richard wrote: Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. ALL fishfood? Absolutely! ;-) Ok, well roughly how much phosphate is there in white worms fed pumpernikel fed to fish 3X a week and nothing else? (my water is pretty cold) -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
Richard wrote:
In article , js1 wrote: On 2005-01-18, Richard wrote: Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. ALL fishfood? Absolutely! ;-) Ok, well roughly how much phosphate is there in white worms fed pumpernikel fed to fish 3X a week and nothing else? (my water is pretty cold) It's not what's in the food...it's what comes out the other end of your fish. ;-) -- __ Elaine T __ __' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ |
In article ,
Elaine T wrote: Richard wrote: In article , js1 wrote: On 2005-01-18, Richard wrote: Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. ALL fishfood? Absolutely! ;-) Ok, well roughly how much phosphate is there in white worms fed pumpernikel fed to fish 3X a week and nothing else? (my water is pretty cold) It's not what's in the food...it's what comes out the other end of your fish. ;-) It's gotta be in the food, fish can't synthesize phosphate. -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
Richard wrote: In article .com, steve wrote: Topic says it all. I'm in a life or death struggle with algae in my big tank. The two twentys are in fine shape. The cork tank is newly When I have a green mess Ichange 80% of the water eevry day till it clears up. Usually 4-5 days, they 50% every other day so the gravel leeches out properly. It's always worked for me so far. Give it a try. Thanks for the acvice, Richard. I'll give that a go after the blackout period I'm trying now. steve |
Ozdude wrote: Are you over feeding? It doesn't sound like anything other than that to me, unless there is something in your water out of the tap. Oz Ya know, Oz, I'm not sure. When I was a kid, and warned about overfeeding Sammy the goldfish, overfeeding meant using only the food he could eat in 5 minutes. Now, I'm starting to understand overfeeding from a different prospective. Just a few years ago I had a tank running crystal clear for two years. What I didn't know is that the nitrates were probably running in the mid two hundreds! I just had a humungous bacteria colony able to process all the food. So when I've been feeding this tank, I've been very careful, and actually proud of myself for not overfeeding. Or have I been? I feed once a day, only the amount the neons and angels can eat in about 2 minutes. In that two minutes however, they absolutely gorge themselves and turn into round balls with head, tail and fins. When I give them live or frozen brine shrimp, the angel fish have extended stomachs that look as if they will pop! So my fish aren't over fed, just ask them. :) But I think I'm overfeeding my _tank_. With the plants I've got going and water changes my nitrate levels are staying low, around 10, not more than 20. After the last water change, the nitrates were only 5 or so. I'm going to try less food, start 'em off on a new years diet, see if I can keep the nitrates at zero from food, and then either feed a bit more or dose KNO3 to boost the plants. steve |
Richard wrote:
In article , Elaine T wrote: Richard wrote: In article , js1 wrote: On 2005-01-18, Richard wrote: Stop dosing phosphorus. Your fish food should provide enough of it. ALL fishfood? Absolutely! ;-) Ok, well roughly how much phosphate is there in white worms fed pumpernikel fed to fish 3X a week and nothing else? (my water is pretty cold) It's not what's in the food...it's what comes out the other end of your fish. ;-) It's gotta be in the food, fish can't synthesize phosphate. Heh. No living organism can transmute elements - you're taking me far too seriously. Wheee...alchemy in the fishtank! My point was that the phosphate in fish food is used by the fish and then excreted. Of course, the intial source of phosphate into the tank is the food. Steve, ALL fishfood has phosphorus and nitrogen, whether it's plant or animal based. Phosphorus is an essential component of DNA, RNA, cell membranes, and the cell's energy systems, and nitrogen comes from protein. If you're worried, first follow Richard's advice and stop all phosphate. Personally, with nitrates between 5 and 20, I'd stop dosing that as well because you're also adding nitrate to the tank with your fishfood. See how your plants do for a few weeks after Richard's water change regime with no added N or P. If your nitrate actually zeros out, you might add some back. Wait a few weeks more and if you still feel an irresistable urge to add P, add a fraction of what you were and be prepared to change lots of water at the first signs of increased algae growth. -- __ Elaine T __ __' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ |
Elaine T wrote: Steve, ALL fishfood has phosphorus and nitrogen, whether it's plant or animal based. Phosphorus is an essential component of DNA, RNA, cell membranes, and the cell's energy systems, and nitrogen comes from protein. If you're worried, first follow Richard's advice and stop all phosphate. Personally, with nitrates between 5 and 20, I'd stop dosing that as well because you're also adding nitrate to the tank with your fishfood. See how your plants do for a few weeks after Richard's water change regime with no added N or P. If your nitrate actually zeros out, you might add some back. Wait a few weeks more and if you still feel an irresistable urge to add P, add a fraction of what you were and be prepared to change lots of water at the first signs of increased algae growth. k. (thanks for taking time to reply) After the blackout and massive water changes, I'll let the thing stabilize a bit and see where the nitrates stand. Maybe I got a little too agressive with my dosing, thinking I as some kind 'o plant king. :) steve |
Heh. No living organism can transmute elements - you're taking me far
too seriously. Wheee...alchemy in the fishtank! My point was that the phosphate in fish food is used by the fish and then excreted. Of course, the intial source of phosphate into the tank is the food. Right, and I only feed live whitw worms fed with pumpernikel 3X a week. Does this mean I'm adding no, low or high phospahtes? Honest question, I have no idea. -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
Richard Sexton wrote:
Heh. No living organism can transmute elements - you're taking me far too seriously. Wheee...alchemy in the fishtank! My point was that the phosphate in fish food is used by the fish and then excreted. Of course, the intial source of phosphate into the tank is the food. Right, and I only feed live whitw worms fed with pumpernikel 3X a week. Does this mean I'm adding no, low or high phospahtes? Honest question, I have no idea. Sorry...I thought that was Steve's question. First, you DO have to take the fish's metabolism into account. If the fish are actively growing, they may absorb more phosphorus from their food. So the assumption that what goes into the tank is exactly what passes through a growing fish and fertilizes the tank is not perfect. Hmm...My bottle of TetraMin says minimum phosphorus is 1.3% and my ColorBits are minimum 1.5%. All Hagen NutraFin foods are formulated to have only a minimum of 0.6% and a maximum of 0.9%. They talk about their phosphorus philosophy here. http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/nut...ax/lowphos.cfm As for worms, tetra delica bloodworms have min 0.9% and I found an article at http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/c...35746/ABSTRACT showing freeze dried earthworms at 0.8%, waxworms at 1.2%, and mealworms varying widely from 0.8% to 1.4% phosphorus depending on the strain. Hikari reports 0.1% phosphorus max for their freeze dried bloodworms and tubifex, but that does not appear to be compatible with living worms, so I doubt their number. So...you're probably feeding medium phosphate level food, around 0.8% to 1% if your worms are similar to others. As for amount, dunno. I haven't seen you feed but I know how much a hungry killi can eat! Is that the kind of info that you were after? -- __ Elaine T __ __' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ |
As for worms, tetra delica bloodworms have min 0.9% and I found an
article at http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/c...35746/ABSTRACT showing freeze dried earthworms at 0.8%, waxworms at 1.2%, and mealworms varying widely from 0.8% to 1.4% phosphorus depending on the strain. Hikari reports 0.1% phosphorus max for their freeze dried bloodworms and tubifex, but that does not appear to be compatible with living worms, so I doubt their number. So...you're probably feeding medium phosphate level food, around 0.8% to 1% if your worms are similar to others. As for amount, dunno. I haven't seen you feed but I know how much a hungry killi can eat! The funny thing is the Ammano shrimp eat more white worms than the killies do. Yahbut, tubifex eat sewage and presumably there's tons of phosphates in there. Wouldnt this all really depends on the amount of phosphate in pumpernikle bread I feed the worms? -- Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org |
Richard Sexton wrote:
As for worms, tetra delica bloodworms have min 0.9% and I found an article at http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/c...35746/ABSTRACT showing freeze dried earthworms at 0.8%, waxworms at 1.2%, and mealworms varying widely from 0.8% to 1.4% phosphorus depending on the strain. Hikari reports 0.1% phosphorus max for their freeze dried bloodworms and tubifex, but that does not appear to be compatible with living worms, so I doubt their number. So...you're probably feeding medium phosphate level food, around 0.8% to 1% if your worms are similar to others. As for amount, dunno. I haven't seen you feed but I know how much a hungry killi can eat! The funny thing is the Ammano shrimp eat more white worms than the killies do. Yahbut, tubifex eat sewage and presumably there's tons of phosphates in there. Wouldnt this all really depends on the amount of phosphate in pumpernikle bread I feed the worms? Not so much. The worms have to build DNA, RNA, cell membranes, and all the other chemicals that contain phosphate from the bread. They will retain the phosphate and other valuable minerals from their diet and excrete the excess nitrogen and fiber. If you were phosphate starving your worm cultures, they would not grow and reproduce well. There may be some bread (relatively low in phosphate) in the worm's digestive tract when you feed but the worm itself is the phosphate source. -- __ Elaine T __ __' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ |
55g tank, 48L 20H 12W pH 6.7 with C02 injection at 20ppm KH 3deg temp 79f Nitrates between 5 and 20, fluctuate with the amount of KNO3 I add. Potassium and Phosphorus added minimally per the dosing pages. I shoot for the optimun amount. There are a couple of plant spikes (trace elements) deep under the large plants. I've got 5 ottos in there, and just added a couple of large amano shrimp, but those critters aren't going to touch this fuzz stuff if it comes back strong like this past week. thanks for any hints, suggestions, steve I've had an algae problem in my 90gal with a similar setup. It's not a Phophate problem, you can try and limit phophates but you'll notice all your plant growth slow down which means less competition for the algae (been there, done that). Algae loves crap.. yeah the stuff from the fish. NH4, urea etc. That heavy fishload will be causing the same problems as mine are (big fishload also). I'd recommend doing what you already did for plant cleanup (a dip in chlorine, H2O2 etc) to get them free and a head start, but I would also do a large water change with a massive gravel vacuum. When I pulled up all my plants for a cleaning I did the water change at the same time and vacuumed all the gravel hard and deep until it was clear. So no more crap rotting and that about fixed it in one shot... it's in my books now as a bi-yearly (?) thing as long as I keep my present fishload. P. BTW hope those spikes are trace only, no urea or such for an N source. |
On 2005-01-20, Pete wrote:
I've had an algae problem in my 90gal with a similar setup. It's not a Phophate problem, you can try and limit phophates but you'll notice all your plant growth slow down which means less competition for the algae (been there, done that). Algae loves crap.. yeah the stuff from the fish. NH4, urea etc. That heavy fishload will be causing the same problems as mine are (big fishload also). I'd recommend doing what you already did for plant cleanup (a dip in chlorine, H2O2 etc) to get them free and a head start, but I would also do a large water change with a massive gravel vacuum. When I pulled up all my plants for a cleaning I did the water change at the same time and vacuumed all the gravel hard and deep until it was clear. So no more crap rotting and that about fixed it in one shot... it's in my books now as a bi-yearly (?) thing as long as I keep my present fishload. Well, now you're arguing a causality problem. I can't give a scientific explaination, but I'd have to guess the phosphates are feeding the algae. The algae is growing so fast that it's also taking up the nitrates (produced by the decaying stuff) as well. My guess would be by backing down on the phosphates, it slows the growth of the algae, and gives the plants a chance to fight for the nitrates. -- "I have to decide between two equally frightening options. If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman |
Pete wrote: I'd recommend doing what you already did for plant cleanup (a dip in chlorine, H2O2 etc) to get them free and a head start, but I would also do a large water change with a massive gravel vacuum. When I pulled up all my plants for a cleaning I did the water change at the same time and vacuumed all the gravel hard and deep until it was clear. So no more crap rotting and that about fixed it in one shot... it's in my books now as a bi-yearly (?) thing as long as I keep my present fishload. P. BTW hope those spikes are trace only, no urea or such for an N source. Ya know, call me stupid, but I think you've hit the nail on the head. After my first foray with these plant fert bombs, I had an immediate explosion of green water. I won that battle. Now, shortly after placing these bombs again, shazzam! algae infestation of epic proportions. I did check the ingredients, and thought they were safe. Mostly the trace elements, with very low nitrogen or phosphorous. I'll look again and see if they actually identify urea or NO4. If I leave them covered up and undisturbed I think (hope) the plants will eat them. I'm diligent with my gravel vacc'ing, but 34 fish, fed to nearly popping, will produce a large amount of waste in between cleanings. Now, I've put the two large angels and half (11) the tetras in another tank so I think I can control the N better. thanks for the advice, steve |
steve wrote:
Ya know, call me stupid, but I think you've hit the nail on the head. After my first foray with these plant fert bombs, I had an immediate explosion of green water. I won that battle. Now, shortly after placing these bombs again, shazzam! algae infestation of epic proportions. I did check the ingredients, and thought they were safe. Mostly the trace elements, with very low nitrogen or phosphorous. I'll look again and see if they actually identify urea or NO4. If I leave them covered up and undisturbed I think (hope) the plants will eat them. What brand are your fertilizer pellets, so I know what to avoid? I just added Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Root Tabs plus Iron laterite pellets to my tank a week or so ago and so far so good. TIA! -- __ Elaine T __ __' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ |
Elaine T wrote: What brand are your fertilizer pellets, so I know what to avoid? I just added Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Root Tabs plus Iron laterite pellets to my tank a week or so ago and so far so good. They are Flourish Tabs: http://www.petmeister.com/item801.htm "Flourish Tabs are growth stimulating tablets for plant roots. They contain essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. They are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors that have been determined to be beneficial to aquatic plant roots. They contain no phosphate or nitrate that would promote algae proliferation." I remember reading the ingredients before putting them in my tank again, because I thought they were the probable cause of "Green water 2004". The ingredients look bland enough, no urea or xx percent phosphate to worry about. But "twice bitten oh my butt hurts now", or how ever that goes, I'm not putting them in again. steve |
js1 wrote in :
On 2005-01-20, Pete wrote: I've had an algae problem in my 90gal with a similar setup. It's not a Phophate problem, you can try and limit phophates but you'll notice all your plant growth slow down which means less competition for the algae (been there, done that). Algae loves crap.. yeah the stuff from the fish. NH4, urea etc. That heavy fishload will be causing the same problems as mine are (big fishload also). I'd recommend doing what you already did for plant cleanup (a dip in chlorine, H2O2 etc) to get them free and a head start, but I would also do a large water change with a massive gravel vacuum. When I pulled up all my plants for a cleaning I did the water change at the same time and vacuumed all the gravel hard and deep until it was clear. So no more crap rotting and that about fixed it in one shot... it's in my books now as a bi-yearly (?) thing as long as I keep my present fishload. Well, now you're arguing a causality problem. I can't give a scientific explaination, but I'd have to guess the phosphates are feeding the algae. The algae is growing so fast that it's also taking up the nitrates (produced by the decaying stuff) as well. My guess would be by backing down on the phosphates, it slows the growth of the algae, and gives the plants a chance to fight for the nitrates. Yeah it's not an easy discussion as unless you are doing scientific tests you can talk forever on what is or isn't causing your problems... and since there are so many variables in your basic tank it a big discussion. The main reason I think (imo) it's not excess phosphates is I've been down the route of limiting P before. No P ferts, P absorbing packs in the filter etc. I still have small amounts of algae now (in corners etc.) but my higher than 'official' recommended levels of P don't cause any problems (I fert with P regularly) so I don't believe it's P alone that causes a problem. Lowering P will reduce growth rates but it does it for everything, plants included, so it still doesn't allow your plants to out compete the algae. I've also added large amounts of P to my tank to get levels way above the recommened and no huge explosion, but add some urea (like accidently uprooting a mostly N jobe fert stick made with urea) and boom. So instead I've suggested the gravel cleanup (fish reduction would help also but if you want lots of fish.....) on the principle that algae thrives due the NH4 and stuff from the fish. So excess NH4 and some P gives you a big problem, but why hit the P that both algae and the plants you want to grow use, but not hit the NH4. Keep the P that plants (and algae) need to grow well but try and hit the NH4 that seems to the real algae favorite but the plants can do without. On that note adding more plants and quicker growing plants (I love floating water lettuce) helps. P. BTW. this is for a CO2 inj high light tank, non CO2 regular lighting fert requirements are quite different. |
"steve" wrote in news:1106252923.825651.298980
@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: They are Flourish Tabs: http://www.petmeister.com/item801.htm "Flourish Tabs are growth stimulating tablets for plant roots. They contain essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. They are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors that have been determined to be beneficial to aquatic plant roots. They contain no phosphate or nitrate that would promote algae proliferation." I remember reading the ingredients before putting them in my tank again, because I thought they were the probable cause of "Green water 2004". The ingredients look bland enough, no urea or xx percent phosphate to worry about. But "twice bitten oh my butt hurts now", or how ever that goes, I'm not putting them in again. steve Yeah, they certainly look safe by the description. Guess the rule of thumb is don't touch it if everything is growing nicely already ;) I actually don't fert the roots anymore as the plants don't seem to need it. When pruning you chop the tops off and replant with zero roots and they still do fine. All my ferts are done via the water which I can fine tune with every other day doses with large weekend water changes to remove any access, as opposed to a one time large dose into the ground (which you may or may not accidently dig up when moving plants around). P. BTW NO3 is not a problem, I fert using 1/4tsp of KNO3 every other day, it's the urea or NH4 form that will kill you. |
Pete wrote: "steve" wrote in news:1106252923.825651.298980 @c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: They are Flourish Tabs: http://www.petmeister.com/item801.htm Yeah, they certainly look safe by the description. Guess the rule of thumb is don't touch it if everything is growing nicely already ;) I actually don't fert the roots anymore as the plants don't seem to need it. When pruning you chop the tops off and replant with zero roots and they still do fine. All my ferts are done via the water which I can fine tune with every other day doses with large weekend water changes to remove any access, as opposed to a one time large dose into the ground (which you may or may not accidently dig up when moving plants around). My real guilt comes from lazyness in this case. I had the things laying around and figgered by tossing them in I wouldn't have to dose trace elements for a month or two. I picked up all the stuff I need from G. Watson, just got caught taking a short cut. I'm going to leave them in there and not disturb the substrate for a while and see how it goes. If I do need to dig, I'm going to hover with the hoover while I do it to remove any excess that get's released. steve "gotta green thumb with dahlias, but still getting my feet wet with aqua botanics" bloom |
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