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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
I'm not trying to be snotty, or set myself up as an expert, but I
thought I'd add a comentary on what I did here and why. I'm sure that lots of folks know all about this stuff (certainly some better than I do), but maybe some folks don't, and would find this interesting. Although I experiment with it from time to time, I don't usually use the Pattern or "intelligent" exposure mode setting, which tends to be the factory default in many cameras. I find that this type of full-scene exposure metering doesn't do a very good job in high-contrast situations, and if there isn't a lot of contrast, it doesn't matter anyway. My default metering mode is Partial or "center weighted" metering, and I sometimes use Spot too (same idea, but smaller and more exclusive "spot"). This shot would have been very difficult with Pattern metering because the camera would have tried to lighten the dark spaces so much that the flower would have been way over-exposed losing all color and detail. In this case I used Exposure Lock, another feature available on many dSLR. You place the metering spot over the brightest (or most interesting) part of the scene and press Exposure Lock, which does exactly that for a few moments. Then recompose, focus and shoot with the original exposure setting still in force. I had another shot with center-weighted metering at the exact center of the image, but this one was metered and locked over the brightest area. The other picture is OK, but it lacks the dramatic punch of this one. The difference was about 1.5 stops. Although many simpler cameras don't have Exposure Lock, most will have some kind of exposure compensation feature. In a strong-contrast scene like this I would probably try a -2Ev setting, and even with full-scene Pattern Metering, it would probably produce something close. My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ |
#2
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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
John - Pa. wrote:
[...] My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ Good advice, John, and beautiful picture! |
#3
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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
John - Pa. wrote:
[...] My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ Would make a great wallpaper, with the dark areas just right for placement of the icons. |
#4
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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
Thanks for this John, I shall have to get my Sony camera book out & try
this? Super shot, I love it. Cheers Wendy "John - Pa." wrote in message ... I'm not trying to be snotty, or set myself up as an expert, but I thought I'd add a comentary on what I did here and why. I'm sure that lots of folks know all about this stuff (certainly some better than I do), but maybe some folks don't, and would find this interesting. Although I experiment with it from time to time, I don't usually use the Pattern or "intelligent" exposure mode setting, which tends to be the factory default in many cameras. I find that this type of full-scene exposure metering doesn't do a very good job in high-contrast situations, and if there isn't a lot of contrast, it doesn't matter anyway. My default metering mode is Partial or "center weighted" metering, and I sometimes use Spot too (same idea, but smaller and more exclusive "spot"). This shot would have been very difficult with Pattern metering because the camera would have tried to lighten the dark spaces so much that the flower would have been way over-exposed losing all color and detail. In this case I used Exposure Lock, another feature available on many dSLR. You place the metering spot over the brightest (or most interesting) part of the scene and press Exposure Lock, which does exactly that for a few moments. Then recompose, focus and shoot with the original exposure setting still in force. I had another shot with center-weighted metering at the exact center of the image, but this one was metered and locked over the brightest area. The other picture is OK, but it lacks the dramatic punch of this one. The difference was about 1.5 stops. Although many simpler cameras don't have Exposure Lock, most will have some kind of exposure compensation feature. In a strong-contrast scene like this I would probably try a -2Ev setting, and even with full-scene Pattern Metering, it would probably produce something close. My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ |
#5
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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
Feel free, if you'd like (or anyone else). I am not very possessive
about my stuff. I just don't want it misattributed or used commercially. JD On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:51:38 -0500, "Wolf K." wrote: John - Pa. wrote: [...] My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ Would make a great wallpaper, with the dark areas just right for placement of the icons. |
#6
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Flower Drama - Yellow Clivia 20080577-Edit.jpg
Incredible shot. Thanks for the lesson!
Gordie John - Pa. wrote in message ... I'm not trying to be snotty, or set myself up as an expert, but I thought I'd add a comentary on what I did here and why. I'm sure that lots of folks know all about this stuff (certainly some better than I do), but maybe some folks don't, and would find this interesting. Although I experiment with it from time to time, I don't usually use the Pattern or "intelligent" exposure mode setting, which tends to be the factory default in many cameras. I find that this type of full-scene exposure metering doesn't do a very good job in high-contrast situations, and if there isn't a lot of contrast, it doesn't matter anyway. My default metering mode is Partial or "center weighted" metering, and I sometimes use Spot too (same idea, but smaller and more exclusive "spot"). This shot would have been very difficult with Pattern metering because the camera would have tried to lighten the dark spaces so much that the flower would have been way over-exposed losing all color and detail. In this case I used Exposure Lock, another feature available on many dSLR. You place the metering spot over the brightest (or most interesting) part of the scene and press Exposure Lock, which does exactly that for a few moments. Then recompose, focus and shoot with the original exposure setting still in force. I had another shot with center-weighted metering at the exact center of the image, but this one was metered and locked over the brightest area. The other picture is OK, but it lacks the dramatic punch of this one. The difference was about 1.5 stops. Although many simpler cameras don't have Exposure Lock, most will have some kind of exposure compensation feature. In a strong-contrast scene like this I would probably try a -2Ev setting, and even with full-scene Pattern Metering, it would probably produce something close. My advice; don't be afraid to overrule the camera's selections, it isn't really that smart anyway. JD Canon 1D-mkIII EXIF Data Included e-mail: blissful-wind(at)usa.net Additional images at; http://www.flickr.com/photos/john-pa/ |
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