Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Wooden 4x4 vs Vinyl or Plastic posts?
In article ,
wrote: On Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:43:03 -0700, (paghat) wrote: There are now on the market pressure-treated rot-resistant woods that do not have arsenic & copper & are environmentally safe. The only part of a What do they treat them with? Garlic maybe? Bob Most of the alternatives are organic-based formulations & if they migrate out of the wood will (unlike arsenic & chromium) break down in the environment. These formulations typically include one or the other of the following: citrate, amonia, pentachlorophenol, sodium, naphthenate, tebuconazole, & copper azole (this last in the easily obtained "wolmanized" lumber). Most but not all the new formulations still contain copper (& I should have said "do not arsenic & chromium & are environmentally safe"). Copper is not the same hazard as arsenic, though not 101% harmless (even copper pennies are deadly if one gets picky enough about possibilities). Copper "sets" the preservative in a manner that slows down natural degradation of the preservative itself, & the wood; the copper does not migrate to the soil because it bonds molecularly to wood in the heat-pressure process, though in the 60-100 years it may take for the wood to break down if in contact with soil, the copper will eventually enter the environment, just not while the wood is intact. Some of the preservative alternatives are not appropriate for ground-contact (zinc and borate are used mainly in composit wood, & are not safely placed in contact with the environment, but are tyically used in barriered home construction such as under housewrap). Here are the facts about wood treated with arsenic & chromium: http://www.yourlawyer.com/practice/o...Treated%20Wood All vendors of course tell a different story, & have citations of "scientists" the industry personally funded or "research" done in-house & vanity published without peer review. Fact is, it's dangerous, dangerous stuff. The industry is doing a veritable BLITZ of propoganda to keep their sales from evaporating before December 2003, when any CCA wood left in the lumberyard will have to be "safely" destroyed. The indstry facing inevitable legal bans entered into an agreement with the EPA to "voluntarily" stop selling poisoned wood IF the EPA would promise not to place the government's stamp of disapproval on the product. To EPA it was worth getting rid of the terrible stuff so they agreed not to make strong statements against it, & from the industry point of view, EPA's wishywashy posture limits the chances of the pending class action suits costing the industry billions in court. Several years ago the industry talked their way out of being banned (there was a temporary ban) by some first-rate lobbying of congress about how EPA was going to deprive Americans of good jobs, & promising to distribute informative warning sheets with their product. But no wholesaler or retailer ever seriously distributed these warnings, so the industry didn't have to waste trees printing many of them up. Of course plastic lumber as an altenrative is environmentally friendly ONLY because it recycles something that is environmentally catastrophic -- the reality is that plastic is environmentally among the WORST things humans use, first because of the manufacture methods, & second because of the impossibility of safely elminating plastic from the environment. And someday someone may really want to get rid of even those eternal plastic fenceposts, & it won't be safely done on the cheap. So even if you want your fence to be plastic so as to better match your trailer house & that old Ford truck rusting in the grass, you're not seriously doing the environment any favors. If money's no option, & wood won't do, build a fence of art-masonry & wrought iron. Though be warned that cement in foundations or masonry construction can severely alkalinize the environment so maybe we should just stack some rocks loosely.... Some of the alternatives may indeed, over time, & from independent studies rather than industry-generated studies, prove to be themselves problems, probably none, at worst, as big a problem as standard house paints, & so far, my own organic & natural tendencies have not bannished house paint. I do not want aluminum siding & plastic fences, nor will I replace my collection of deadly monkshoods with plastic flowers. I will certainly be watching for independent studies of the organic-formulation pressure treated woods because I'm naturally cynical, but for the time being glad to know arsenic treated woods are being phased out in favor of organic formulations. If I could get the rarer formulations without copper binders I would, but unless some new information indicts the pennies in my piggy bank at levels far greater than has been shown in the past century, I won't religiously avoid formulations with copper the way I always have avoided arsenic treated wood. One of the most credible approaches might be to begin with completley natural cedar or redwood posts, & treat by hand with oil-based preservatives only that portion of the post that goes into a hole. This would maximize the lifespan of the post while minimalizing the overall amount of wood preservative. I already had good fences when I bought the place but I do use a redwood-colored preservative oil on some of the trellises (hand built or purchased), & don't feel I'm harming the environment as I would be if I had been buying arsenic-treated wood. If I were setting posts I would obtain the newer pressure-treated woods that do not have arsenic. Since I make only such things as trellises & arbors, I've found it easy to seek out woods that are naturally rot-resistant (cedars, yellow cypress, redwood) & since I don't worry about insect attack, treat the wood either with nothing or with oil-based anti-mildew dyes. But I wouldn't fear to use the new organic formulations for pressure-treated wood if I needed to build something more substantial like a six-foot fence, deck, or a shed -- I will be making a large pergola either this year or next year, & will probably use very few natural 4x4 posts set on masonry blocks, so even for that won't need treated wood because it won't quite touch the ground, but will still use the mildew-retarding oils. I think it's always wise to be on guard that some of the alternative perservatives will be harmful -- as in the case of naphthenate treated wood, as dangerous as mothballs, could well make it harmful to breathe the air inside the shed, so at least one "alternative" is rather unacceptable). But the truly paranoid will have to forgo housepaint & gasoline while they're at it, & probably just shoot themselves to get it over with, because nothing's 100% certain except death. -paghat -- "Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher. "Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature. -from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers" See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/ |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Wooden 4x4 vs Vinyl or Plastic posts?
Michael Bruss wrote: Of course there are other types of posts like steel pipe, T-posts, concrete, and usenet which all have their advantages and disadvantages. Mike Too much rot in usenet posts. Tried inflating them with hot air, to no avail. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Question on how to install 4x4 pressure treated posts......... | Gardening | |||
Question on how to install 4x4 pressure treated posts....(Ingrid) | Gardening | |||
GÃœRTAN PLASTIC - PLASTIC CRATES,PALLETS and ALL TYPE OF PLASTIC PRODUCTS | Edible Gardening | |||
4X4 Posts -- Gothic decoration ?? | Lawns | |||
Wooden 4x4 vs Vinyl or Plastic posts? | United Kingdom |