Planting cedar shrubs
 

Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am in
the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut open
on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

Thanks

Planting cedar shrubs
 

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:FOJqf.171186$Gd6.58709@pd7tw3no...
Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am in
the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut
open on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

Thanks


Bryan... No big difficulty when replacing shrubs.

Do Not remove the burlap

Dig a hole about twice the diameter of the root ball and about 6 inches or
so deeper than the rootball is thick.

Take half the soil you removed and mix in about the same amount of good
landscape mix. compost or similar material.

Put some of this mix into bottom of hole then set shrub in hole. DO NOT
remove the burlap. Top of rootball should be even with ground. If it is
not, remove shrub and add more mix. repeat till rootball IS level with
ground level.

Now you can start backfilling in around the rootball with soil mix.
Backfill about half way then water it down well. This will help remove air
pockets AND ensures a thorough first watering.

Untie the burlap and ropes/twine around trunk of shrub and roll burlap down
to below ground level. This will help prevent the trunk from being girded
and prevent any 'wicking' of moisture from around the rootball.

Finish backfilling hole and watering it down. take remaning left over soil
and use it to form a dike around the tree along the edge of the hole. This
dike will ensure that all the water you later apply to shrub/tree will go
directly into the rootzone. Water one more time.

Now.. a few tips:
If your tree or shrub comes with rootball in a steel cage, you can fold the
top of the cage back along with the burlap if you desire, but removing or
cutting the cage is not mandatory. the cage will rust away long before any
of the roots get large enough for the cage to be a problem.

I highly recommend using a liquid root stimulator mixture. you can find
this at any of your better nurseries and garden centers. Use according to
directions.

Since you are in the pacific NW , then I do not think lack of water is
going to be an issue during the winter, but come spring or summer, you will
have to water at LEAST every two weeks in damp weather and weekly ( more if
needed) when it gets hot and dry. Water slow and deep. remeber , that
rootball needs to get wet all the way down. Hitting it a couple passes with
a water wand or hose will not be enough.


This guide works with any and all trees and shrubs


Anthony B.
Ky. Nursery & Landscape Association
Certified Nurseryman

Planting cedar shrubs
 

Thank you very much for the tips Anthony. I suspected the burlap would
decompose over time.


"Anthony B" wrote in message
...

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:FOJqf.171186$Gd6.58709@pd7tw3no...
Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am
in the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut
open on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

Thanks


Bryan... No big difficulty when replacing shrubs.

Do Not remove the burlap

Dig a hole about twice the diameter of the root ball and about 6 inches or
so deeper than the rootball is thick.

Take half the soil you removed and mix in about the same amount of good
landscape mix. compost or similar material.

Put some of this mix into bottom of hole then set shrub in hole. DO NOT
remove the burlap. Top of rootball should be even with ground. If it is
not, remove shrub and add more mix. repeat till rootball IS level with
ground level.

Now you can start backfilling in around the rootball with soil mix.
Backfill about half way then water it down well. This will help remove
air pockets AND ensures a thorough first watering.

Untie the burlap and ropes/twine around trunk of shrub and roll burlap
down to below ground level. This will help prevent the trunk from being
girded and prevent any 'wicking' of moisture from around the rootball.

Finish backfilling hole and watering it down. take remaning left over
soil and use it to form a dike around the tree along the edge of the hole.
This dike will ensure that all the water you later apply to shrub/tree
will go directly into the rootzone. Water one more time.

Now.. a few tips:
If your tree or shrub comes with rootball in a steel cage, you can fold
the top of the cage back along with the burlap if you desire, but removing
or cutting the cage is not mandatory. the cage will rust away long before
any of the roots get large enough for the cage to be a problem.

I highly recommend using a liquid root stimulator mixture. you can find
this at any of your better nurseries and garden centers. Use according to
directions.

Since you are in the pacific NW , then I do not think lack of water is
going to be an issue during the winter, but come spring or summer, you
will have to water at LEAST every two weeks in damp weather and weekly (
more if needed) when it gets hot and dry. Water slow and deep. remeber ,
that rootball needs to get wet all the way down. Hitting it a couple
passes with a water wand or hose will not be enough.


This guide works with any and all trees and shrubs


Anthony B.
Ky. Nursery & Landscape Association
Certified Nurseryman

Planting cedar shrubs
 

No Problem Brian.. the garden center/nursery that sold you the replacements
should have briefed you on all this.. Best of luck


"Bryan" wrote in message
news:0eMqf.53015$2k.45593@pd7tw1no...
Thank you very much for the tips Anthony. I suspected the burlap would
decompose over time.


"Anthony B" wrote in message
...

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:FOJqf.171186$Gd6.58709@pd7tw3no...
Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am
in the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut
open on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

Thanks


Bryan... No big difficulty when replacing shrubs.

Do Not remove the burlap

Dig a hole about twice the diameter of the root ball and about 6 inches
or so deeper than the rootball is thick.

Take half the soil you removed and mix in about the same amount of good
landscape mix. compost or similar material.

Put some of this mix into bottom of hole then set shrub in hole. DO NOT
remove the burlap. Top of rootball should be even with ground. If it is
not, remove shrub and add more mix. repeat till rootball IS level with
ground level.

Now you can start backfilling in around the rootball with soil mix.
Backfill about half way then water it down well. This will help remove
air pockets AND ensures a thorough first watering.

Untie the burlap and ropes/twine around trunk of shrub and roll burlap
down to below ground level. This will help prevent the trunk from being
girded and prevent any 'wicking' of moisture from around the rootball.

Finish backfilling hole and watering it down. take remaning left over
soil and use it to form a dike around the tree along the edge of the
hole. This dike will ensure that all the water you later apply to
shrub/tree will go directly into the rootzone. Water one more time.

Now.. a few tips:
If your tree or shrub comes with rootball in a steel cage, you can fold
the top of the cage back along with the burlap if you desire, but
removing or cutting the cage is not mandatory. the cage will rust away
long before any of the roots get large enough for the cage to be a
problem.

I highly recommend using a liquid root stimulator mixture. you can find
this at any of your better nurseries and garden centers. Use according
to directions.

Since you are in the pacific NW , then I do not think lack of water is
going to be an issue during the winter, but come spring or summer, you
will have to water at LEAST every two weeks in damp weather and weekly
( more if needed) when it gets hot and dry. Water slow and deep. remeber
, that rootball needs to get wet all the way down. Hitting it a couple
passes with a water wand or hose will not be enough.


This guide works with any and all trees and shrubs


Anthony B.
Ky. Nursery & Landscape Association
Certified Nurseryman

Planting cedar shrubs
 

"Anthony B" wrote in message

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:FOJqf.171186$Gd6.58709@pd7tw3no...
Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar
shrubs. I am in the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed
or
just cut open on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow
through. Thanks


Bryan... No big difficulty when replacing shrubs.

Do Not remove the burlap

Dig a hole about twice the diameter of the root ball and about
6
inches or so deeper than the rootball is thick.

Take half the soil you removed and mix in about the same amount
of
good landscape mix. compost or similar material.

Put some of this mix into bottom of hole then set shrub in
hole. DO
NOT remove the burlap. Top of rootball should be even with
ground.
If it is not, remove shrub and add more mix. repeat till
rootball
IS level with ground level.

Now you can start backfilling in around the rootball with soil
mix.
Backfill about half way then water it down well. This will
help
remove air pockets AND ensures a thorough first watering.

Untie the burlap and ropes/twine around trunk of shrub and roll
burlap down to below ground level. This will help prevent the
trunk from being girded and prevent any 'wicking' of moisture
from
around the rootball.
Finish backfilling hole and watering it down. take remaning
left
over soil and use it to form a dike around the tree along the
edge
of the hole. This dike will ensure that all the water you
later
apply to shrub/tree will go directly into the rootzone. Water
one
more time.
Now.. a few tips:
If your tree or shrub comes with rootball in a steel cage, you
can
fold the top of the cage back along with the burlap if you
desire,
but removing or cutting the cage is not mandatory. the cage
will
rust away long before any of the roots get large enough for the
cage to be a problem.
I highly recommend using a liquid root stimulator mixture. you
can
find this at any of your better nurseries and garden centers.
Use
according to directions.

Since you are in the pacific NW , then I do not think lack of
water
is going to be an issue during the winter, but come spring or
summer, you will have to water at LEAST every two weeks in damp
weather and weekly ( more if needed) when it gets hot and dry.
Water slow and deep. remeber , that rootball needs to get wet
all
the way down. Hitting it a couple passes with a water wand or
hose
will not be enough.

This guide works with any and all trees and shrubs


Anthony B.
Ky. Nursery & Landscape Association
Certified Nurseryman

It is better to back fill with the native soil not some potting
soil crap.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

Planting cedar shrubs
 

"Travis M." wrote in message
news:mIOqf.6299$Ap1.6202@trndny06...
"Anthony B" wrote in message

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:FOJqf.171186$Gd6.58709@pd7tw3no...
Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar
shrubs. I am in the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or
just cut open on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow
through. Thanks


Bryan... No big difficulty when replacing shrubs.

Do Not remove the burlap

Dig a hole about twice the diameter of the root ball and about 6
inches or so deeper than the rootball is thick.

Take half the soil you removed and mix in about the same amount of
good landscape mix. compost or similar material.

Put some of this mix into bottom of hole then set shrub in hole. DO
NOT remove the burlap. Top of rootball should be even with ground.
If it is not, remove shrub and add more mix. repeat till rootball
IS level with ground level.

Now you can start backfilling in around the rootball with soil mix.
Backfill about half way then water it down well. This will help
remove air pockets AND ensures a thorough first watering.

Untie the burlap and ropes/twine around trunk of shrub and roll
burlap down to below ground level. This will help prevent the
trunk from being girded and prevent any 'wicking' of moisture from
around the rootball.
Finish backfilling hole and watering it down. take remaning left
over soil and use it to form a dike around the tree along the edge
of the hole. This dike will ensure that all the water you later
apply to shrub/tree will go directly into the rootzone. Water one
more time.
Now.. a few tips:
If your tree or shrub comes with rootball in a steel cage, you can
fold the top of the cage back along with the burlap if you desire,
but removing or cutting the cage is not mandatory. the cage will
rust away long before any of the roots get large enough for the
cage to be a problem.
I highly recommend using a liquid root stimulator mixture. you can
find this at any of your better nurseries and garden centers. Use
according to directions.

Since you are in the pacific NW , then I do not think lack of water
is going to be an issue during the winter, but come spring or
summer, you will have to water at LEAST every two weeks in damp
weather and weekly ( more if needed) when it gets hot and dry. Water slow
and deep. remeber , that rootball needs to get wet all
the way down. Hitting it a couple passes with a water wand or hose
will not be enough.

This guide works with any and all trees and shrubs


Anthony B.
Ky. Nursery & Landscape Association
Certified Nurseryman

It is better to back fill with the native soil not some potting soil crap.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

Travis, as in many things, there are two schools of thought on that ..
native dirt or a mixed dirt.. doesn't really matter one way or the other

Planting cedar shrubs
 

"Bryan" wrote:

Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am in
the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut open
on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

If it is real biodegradable burlap, you just cut slits and leave it in
the hole. If it is plastic burlap or treated burlap, you remove it
completely.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Planting cedar shrubs
 

How does one tell if it is treated. Perhaps it's best if I just slit the
sides to be safe.


"Stephen Henning" wrote in message
...
"Bryan" wrote:

Can anybody offer any tip's for planting replacement cedar shrubs. I am
in
the Pacific Northwest so the weather is fine.

The root ball is enclosed in burlap, should this be removed or just cut
open
on a couple sides to allow the roots to grow through.

If it is real biodegradable burlap, you just cut slits and leave it in
the hole. If it is plastic burlap or treated burlap, you remove it
completely.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Planting cedar shrubs
 

"Bryan" wrote:

How does one tell if it is treated. Perhaps it's best if I just slit the
sides to be safe.

Real burlap is a soft natural material with just a natural brown color.
Treated burlaps are usually dyed to distinguish them.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6