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Problems with Mantis tiller
Mitch wrote:
Have you taken a good look at the exhaust/muffler? Yeah, that was one of the first things I checked. I pulled the plastic stops off of the carb adjustment screws. By backing them out about 1 1/2 turns (WAY more than the stops allowed), I was able to get it to run. It still won't go full throttle, and I had to keep massaging the throttle to keep it from dying, but I was able to move some dirt around. I guess I'll take the carb apart over the Winter. If you got it running, buy a gallon of Premium gasoline, like Amoco Gold. It will run better in a clogged up carburetor, and it will remove some of the gum and varnish build-up as you run it. I buy 92 octane for my lawnmower and chain saws for the first tank every years, then switch back to 89 octane next time I buy fuel. It'll only cost you an extra 20¢ to try it. :-) Bob |
Problems with Mantis tiller
On Sun, 20 May 2007 14:28:18 GMT, Mitch Mitch@... wrote:
Have you taken a good look at the exhaust/muffler? Yeah, that was one of the first things I checked. I pulled the plastic stops off of the carb adjustment screws. By backing them out about 1 1/2 turns (WAY more than the stops allowed), I was able to get it to run. It still won't go full throttle, and I had to keep massaging the throttle to keep it from dying, but I was able to move some dirt around. I guess I'll take the carb apart over the Winter. Well it was worth a shot :) I suspect these are almost identical to the weed whacker motor/carbs. If so there isn't much to them at all. Two screws/bolts remove it from the intake/jug. Maybe 4 screws allow it to be split in two. Just be really careful not to damage the gasket. It is more than just a gasket. It has little flapping check valves and such which are part of it. Take a good look at both the hoses too. One comes from the tank and the other is a return line. They can cause some weird troubles too if cracked or loose where they enter the tank. You would probably have noticed fuel leaking though and it isn't old enough for them to have really deteriorated too much. From what you have said/done so far I doubt it will give you any problem. I just carefully blow them out good with compressed air and put'em back together. It may just settle down after you run some gas through it. If so you will probably have to set the adjustments back like they were, or close to the same. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
Problems with Mantis tiller
My Mantis is 2004, and last few years has been a nightmare--and continues for 2015. I never really bought the "new gas" scenario, but after trying this last weekend and having it barely run--I did the new gas Monday AM (used regular, though). Got it started and it ran like a dynamo for about 20 min--so now I am a believer in new gas! Shut it off for few minutes of raking, and then could not get it started. Rest of week same scenario, mess with Carb, changed filter, checked spark arrest screen, checked plug, used carb cleaner on "L" jet(rebuilt carb last year)--run's fine for 5-10 min--and then quits. Talked to Mantis twice this week--little help, except comments on bad gas these day. Am ready to burn it in town square in Cary, NC.
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Problems with Mantis tiller
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Quote:
https://youtu.be/MpdMx5cuM7Y |
Problems with Mantis tiller
Whatever gas you use in whatever small engine you must use an enzymatic fuel treatment such as StarTron. If you don't you can kiss your carberator goodby. The ethanol in the gas destroys plastics and plugs up passages when it evaporates. It also will absorb water. Death to any small engine, 2 or 4 stroke
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Problems with Mantis tiller
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Problems with Mantis tiller
Has leaking has out of fuel tank grommet
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