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Azalea chlorotic
I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house
(So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. Light, water and fertilizer are normal. Any suggestions? TIA Persephone |
Azalea chlorotic
Good question. I used tro think sulfur would adjust the pH.
Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Persephone wrote in message ... I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. Light, water and fertilizer are normal. Any suggestions? TIA Persephone |
Azalea chlorotic
Persephone wrote:
I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. Chlorisis (yellowing of the leaves between green veins) is a symptom of poor nutrition, but does not reveal the source. It is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency or magnesium deficiency. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM SULFATE; IT KILLS RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. Foliar sprays of iron sulfate or chelated iron can reduce symptoms. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. There is a tonic that remedies some cases of chlorosis. Diane Pertson, Otter Point, Vancouver Island, found the following "foolproof formula" for chlorotic leaves or a rhododendron that isn't looking healthy: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available here in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), about $4.00 for a 5 lb. bag - and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant), about $7.00 for 1 quart; In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball. In 1-2 weeks, the leaves should be nice and green. You could repeat the process at this time if the leaves aren't fully green. This works even better if, a month before, you have sweetened the soil by sprinkling a little Dolomite Lime on the roots. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. As many of my rhododendrons are planted in very acidic soil under a canopy of giant cedar trees, I find an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:12:21 -0700, Persephone wrote:
I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. Light, water and fertilizer are normal. Any suggestions? TIA Persephone Check for tiny mites/insect damage. If there is no sign here, give it a half dose of acid fertilizer (such as Miracle Grow or a fertilizer for azaleas). You should see results in 2-3 weeks. |
Azalea chlorotic
Phisherman wrote:
Check for tiny mites/insect damage. If there is no sign here, give it a half dose of acid fertilizer (such as Miracle Grow or a fertilizer for azaleas). You should see results in 2-3 weeks. Miracle Grow is more of a problem than a cure. It is very high in nitrogen which is not what azaleas need. It is water soluble so it is only a temporary measure designed to sell miracle grow. Hollytone is a good organic slow release, long-lasting, fertilizer but I only recommend using it once in the spring and at half the rate on the package. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://rhodyman.net |
Azalea chlorotic
In addition, Miracle Grow claims they are selling you plant "food". That
is false advertisement. We do not feed trees. They are autotrophs. Food is a substance that provides and energy source, mostly. Nutrient is a substance that provides an energy source, elements, and other substances essential for life, in types and amounts that can provide a healthy life. Fertilizer is a substance that provides elements, as salts mostly, or in bonded forms, that require microorganisms to alter to forms that can be absorbed by plants. I do not call elements - nutrients, however nutrients would contain elements. You can put a file in a folder but you can't put a folder in a file. A list of elements can be found he http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US211%26sa%3DX 17 Elements For Life - Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron, Molybdenum, Chlorine, Zinc, Nickel [Sodium, Cobalt, Selenium?] 14 essential elements are obtained by trees from the soil. I do not have a list of which ones they are. Wood is the substrate of the base of the food web, the mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizae tend to be abundant in composted wood such as nurse logs. We had great success at tree biology workshops finding mycorrhizae during dryer times, in and about nurse logs. I believe, you don't have to agree with it, please, just think. I think that by applying mulch as I recommend under mulch here that you facilitate the mycorrhizae rather than just adding what I believe you mean as humus, over a lawn. Not that its bad in any way, adding humus i.e.. Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Did I say - Mycorrhizae are organs that facilitate the absorption of elements essential for healthy growth. Mycorrhizae resist the Demons Of D. Mycorrhizae facilitate the absorption of elements. Demons of D are those things that add up to the big D word DEATH. E.g., Depletion, disruption, and dysfunction. Elements can be depleted. Disruption, you get hit my a Mac truck. Dysfunction, some organ such as mycorrhizae may not function. Major Elements C; H; N; O; P; K; S; Mg; Ni; Fe; Ca; Zn; Mo; Mn; B; Cl; Cu There is the law of the minimum. It states the element that is deficient the most, would be the determining factor in the health of the tree. I think research would be wise in the search for the optimum fertility level for trees. I did some soil testing in the upper four inches of soil and from at and about nurse logs in old growth forest which contain hemlocks and white pines. And much more. Here is my average on my testing for the latter. These where five test. 3 test sites where in Allegheny National Forest(Hearts Content) Pennsylvania and two where in Allegheny National Forest(Tionesta Scenic area) Pennsylvania. Results are in Pounds Per Acre PPA. AVAILABLE ELEMENTS P 8.2 K 236 Mg 107 Ca 594 Al 220.6 Fe 110.8 Mn 118.6 Zn 11.96 NO3-N 28.8 Did not get B or CU. Organic matter was 29.32% Ex Acidity 81 ME/100G Salts mmho: 0.01 mmho/cm Moisture %3.97 Water Soluble mg/kg B 1.0738 ACID Soluble (mg/kg) Cd 0.976 Cu 6.768 Ni 5.71 (Penn State discovered the element Ni to be essential in small amounts) Mn 426.378 Co 3.084 Zn 46.818 Pb 101.792 Cr 5.078 P 726.226 The CARBON TO NITROGEN RATION was 27:1 pH 4.2 WOW That would be a goal of mine if I was going to provide essential elements professionally. I did not see to many people in the old growth sections. There was more calcium at a nurse logs in a separate test. We don't feed trees, however, we can feed the soil with composted wood (chips and nurse logs) and leaves. We can feed the system. I have some results for some sick hemlocks (elements in soil) -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. "Stephen Henning" wrote in message ... Phisherman wrote: Check for tiny mites/insect damage. If there is no sign here, give it a half dose of acid fertilizer (such as Miracle Grow or a fertilizer for azaleas). You should see results in 2-3 weeks. Miracle Grow is more of a problem than a cure. It is very high in nitrogen which is not what azaleas need. It is water soluble so it is only a temporary measure designed to sell miracle grow. Hollytone is a good organic slow release, long-lasting, fertilizer but I only recommend using it once in the spring and at half the rate on the package. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://rhodyman.net |
Azalea chlorotic
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:12:21 -0700, Persephone wrote:
I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. Light, water and fertilizer are normal. Any suggestions? TIA Persephone FWIW, here's the reply I received from my local nursery: Ironite is the right way to go, but if the roots do not get enough oxygen to enable the plant to take in the trace elements (Iron,Zinc, Manganese etc) it will not help. What I mean with enough Oxygen, is that Azaleas could easily be planted too deep - they like to have the root ball be exposed, so I would recommend scraping the top layer away from the trunk and not keeping the soil soaked. A liquid fertilizer sprayed on the leaves such as soil acidifier should rectify the problem faster than if the nutrients were to be absorbed by the roots and transferred to the leaves. Persephone |
Azalea chlorotic
Persephone wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:12:21 -0700, Persephone wrote: I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. FWIW, here's the reply I received from my local nursery: Ironite is the right way to go, but if the roots do not get enough oxygen to enable the plant to take in the trace elements (Iron,Zinc, Manganese etc) it will not help. What I mean with enough Oxygen, is that Azaleas could easily be planted too deep - they like to have the root ball be exposed, so I would recommend scraping the top layer away from the trunk and not keeping the soil soaked. A liquid fertilizer sprayed on the leaves such as soil acidifier should rectify the problem faster than if the nutrients were to be absorbed by the roots and transferred to the leaves. There is some truth to what they are saying, but: 1) if the soil is not acidic, iron won't help. The soil must be acidic. The soil must be made acidic. Powdered sulfur will do this. 2) if the soil is deficient in potassium, calcium, or magnesium it will show the same symptoms but the iron won't help. Potash of Sulfur (K2SO4), Gypsum (CaSO4), and Epsom salts (MgSO4) will address these respectively if used in moderation. 3) if you have poor drainage the scraping the top layer of soil will cause puddling and make the problem worse. Using a raised bed with good acidic soil will address this problem. 4) if it isn't getting enough oxygen, it can be poor drainage and/or being planted too deeply. Using a raised bed and not planting any deeper than it was originally when purchased will solve both problems. Unfortunately, most stores feed the customers desire to buy a product to pour on the problem and solve it. That doesn't always work. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:29:04 -0400, Stephen Henning
wrote: Persephone wrote: On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:12:21 -0700, Persephone wrote: I have an azalea in a large pot on the E. side of the house (So. Calif coastal), that has turned chlorotic. I gave it iron twice, but has had no effect; leaves still have that tell-tale appearance. FWIW, here's the reply I received from my local nursery: Ironite is the right way to go, but if the roots do not get enough oxygen to enable the plant to take in the trace elements (Iron,Zinc, Manganese etc) it will not help. What I mean with enough Oxygen, is that Azaleas could easily be planted too deep - they like to have the root ball be exposed, so I would recommend scraping the top layer away from the trunk and not keeping the soil soaked. A liquid fertilizer sprayed on the leaves such as soil acidifier should rectify the problem faster than if the nutrients were to be absorbed by the roots and transferred to the leaves. There is some truth to what they are saying, but: 1) if the soil is not acidic, iron won't help. The soil must be acidic. The soil must be made acidic. Powdered sulfur will do this. The soil in this area is adobe (basic), but the people before me mulched regularly, as have I, so I suspectthat over many decades of modification the PH has become either acidic, or at least neutral. I should have it tested some time just out of curiousity, though I don't usually have problems like this. 2) if the soil is deficient in potassium, calcium, or magnesium it will show the same symptoms but the iron won't help. Potash of Sulfur (K2SO4), Gypsum (CaSO4), and Epsom salts (MgSO4) will address these respectively if used in moderation. 3) if you have poor drainage the scraping the top layer of soil will cause puddling and make the problem worse. Using a raised bed with good acidic soil will address this problem. Good drainage in that large pot. Water doesn't puddle. 4) if it isn't getting enough oxygen, it can be poor drainage and/or being planted too deeply. Using a raised bed and not planting any deeper than it was originally when purchased will solve both problems. I've scraped away some soil from the trunk; have refrained from over-watering, and will pick up some powdered sulfur. Unfortunately, most stores feed the customers desire to buy a product to pour on the problem and solve it. That doesn't always work. That's probably true, but the email from the nursery was not pushy. I already have some Miracle-Gro; it probably won't kill the plant to get a moderate application. Stay tuned! Persephone |
Azalea chlorotic
Persephone wrote:
The soil in this area is adobe (basic), but the people before me mulched regularly, as have I, so I suspectthat over many decades of modification the PH has become either acidic, or at least neutral. I should have it tested some time just out of curiousity, though I don't usually have problems like this. Neutral won't work. It must be acidic. A pH of 5 to 6.5 is necessary. I already have some Miracle-Gro; it probably won't kill the plant to get a moderate application. Miracle-Gro does more harm than good. It is a soluble nitrogen fertilizer. Your plant is stressed and feeding it nitrogen is not a wise move. The iron and sulfur are the right approach. Usually in alkaline soil such as yours the only easy way to grow azaleas is in a raised bed. Then the alkalinity of the surrounding soil doesn't affect the azaleas. The raised bed only needs to be 8" to 12" high. Then use a good acidic garden soil. If you want to raise acid loving plants like azaleas, you will have to meet them half way by providing acidic soil. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 16:53:55 -0400, Stephen Henning
wrote: Persephone wrote: The soil in this area is adobe (basic), but the people before me mulched regularly, as have I, so I suspectthat over many decades of modification the PH has become either acidic, or at least neutral. I should have it tested some time just out of curiousity, though I don't usually have problems like this. Neutral won't work. It must be acidic. A pH of 5 to 6.5 is necessary. I already have some Miracle-Gro; it probably won't kill the plant to get a moderate application. Miracle-Gro does more harm than good. It is a soluble nitrogen fertilizer. Your plant is stressed and feeding it nitrogen is not a wise move. The iron and sulfur are the right approach. Usually in alkaline soil such as yours the only easy way to grow azaleas is in a raised bed. What about a large pot where soil can be modified? Then the alkalinity of the surrounding soil doesn't affect the azaleas. The raised bed only needs to be 8" to 12" high. Then use a good acidic garden soil. If you want to raise acid loving plants like azaleas, you will have to meet them half way by providing acidic soil. OK, suggestions assimilated. I have had azaleas in that large pot on the E. side of the house before; they bloomed magnificently, but it's true they only produced for about 3-4 seasons. I'll get some sulfur and see if it will work with the previously applied iron. Persephone |
Azalea chlorotic
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:20:35 -0700, Persephone wrote:
I have had azaleas in that large pot on the E. side of the house before; they bloomed magnificently, but it's true they only produced for about 3-4 seasons. I'll get some sulfur and see if it will work with the previously applied iron. Persephone Where do you live, Persephone, I forget. If it is in a place with very hot summers it will be extremely difficult keeping azalea's healthy unless you have naturally occurring acidic soil. In Dallas there is a strip of very acidic soil running through the center of town in the city. They have huge azalea's there which are healthy, vibrant and huge. They thrive through the heat because the soil is naturally acidic. Just some added info to what Stephen already told you. V |
Azalea chlorotic
Persephone wrote:
What about a large pot where soil can be modified? Usually they do best with a double pot with drainage holes in both pots. The outer pot is to protect the inner pot from the sun. Direct sun on the pot of an azalea can be bad, especially if the pot is not white. Even potted azaleas do better when the pot is sunk in the soil to help maintain even root temperatures and more even moisture. In the winter in colder climates the pots must be protected from freezing. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 07:14:31 -0500, jangchub
wrote: On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:20:35 -0700, Persephone wrote: I have had azaleas in that large pot on the E. side of the house before; they bloomed magnificently, but it's true they only produced for about 3-4 seasons. I'll get some sulfur and see if it will work with the previously applied iron. Persephone Where do you live, Persephone, I forget. If it is in a place with very hot summers it will be extremely difficult keeping azalea's healthy unless you have naturally occurring acidic soil. I live in Santa Monica CA, near the beach. It's always 10-20 degrees cooler than inland. We don't have hot summers. Ours is a near-ideal Mediterranean climate -- never too hot, never too cold. ('cept we're in our 2nd year of drought; had only 1 decent rain all last winter, plus a few chicken-shit showers). So -- lots of irrigating, or switch to xeriscapic which I'm considering. In Dallas there is a strip of very acidic soil running through the center of town in the city. They have huge azaleas there which are healthy, vibrant and huge. They thrive through the heat because the soil is naturally acidic. Just some added info to what Stephen already told you. OK, I got some sulfur today - was going to email him to see if it was the right kind, but Stephen, I hope you're seeing this? Product is called "Sulfur Dust", by Lilly Miller. 90% sulfur, 10% inert ingredients. What's confusing to me is that it's sold as a fungicide/insecticide. "For use on roses, grapes, citrus fruits, berries,nuts, vegetables, flowers, shrubs, trees. Controls powdery mildew, rust, scab, mites." Doesn't say anything about acidifying the soil. Only mention of flowers is dusting or spraying foliage. They said I could return it if it wasn't the right thing. So -- can I in fact mix this with the soil of the azalea? Or spray its foliage? If this is the wrong product, could you describe the right one? I know many on this NG are hostile to Miracle-Gro-type products, but they do make an acid fertilizer which I've never used. Is this something to consider? TIA to all Persephne. |
Azalea chlorotic
In article , Persephone
wrote: On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 07:14:31 -0500, jangchub wrote: On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:20:35 -0700, Persephone wrote: I have had azaleas in that large pot on the E. side of the house before; they bloomed magnificently, but it's true they only produced for about 3-4 seasons. I'll get some sulfur and see if it will work with the previously applied iron. Persephone Where do you live, Persephone, I forget. If it is in a place with very hot summers it will be extremely difficult keeping azalea's healthy unless you have naturally occurring acidic soil. I live in Santa Monica CA, near the beach. It's always 10-20 degrees cooler than inland. We don't have hot summers. Ours is a near-ideal Mediterranean climate -- never too hot, never too cold. ('cept we're in our 2nd year of drought; had only 1 decent rain all last winter, plus a few chicken-shit showers). So -- lots of irrigating, or switch to xeriscapic which I'm considering. In Dallas there is a strip of very acidic soil running through the center of town in the city. They have huge azaleas there which are healthy, vibrant and huge. They thrive through the heat because the soil is naturally acidic. Just some added info to what Stephen already told you. OK, I got some sulfur today - was going to email him to see if it was the right kind, but Stephen, I hope you're seeing this? Product is called "Sulfur Dust", by Lilly Miller. 90% sulfur, 10% inert ingredients. What's confusing to me is that it's sold as a fungicide/insecticide. "For use on roses, grapes, citrus fruits, berries,nuts, vegetables, flowers, shrubs, trees. Controls powdery mildew, rust, scab, mites." Doesn't say anything about acidifying the soil. Only mention of flowers is dusting or spraying foliage. They said I could return it if it wasn't the right thing. So -- can I in fact mix this with the soil of the azalea? Or spray its foliage? If this is the wrong product, could you describe the right one? I know many on this NG are hostile to Miracle-Gro-type products, but they do make an acid fertilizer which I've never used. Is this something to consider? TIA to all Persephne. Wake up dumb bunny and google "elemental sulfur, soil pH". Why are you wasting our time? -- Billy http://angryarab.blogspot.com/ |
Azalea chlorotic
Persephone wrote:
OK, I got some sulfur today - was going to email him to see if it was the right kind, but Stephen, I hope you're seeing this? Product is called "Sulfur Dust", by Lilly Miller. 90% sulfur, 10% inert ingredients. What's confusing to me is that it's sold as a fungicide/insecticide. "For use on roses, grapes, citrus fruits, berries,nuts, vegetables, flowers, shrubs, trees. Controls powdery mildew, rust, scab, mites." Doesn't say anything about acidifying the soil. Only mention of flowers is dusting or spraying foliage. They said I could return it if it wasn't the right thing. Yes, this sulfur is just fine. It may be a WP (Wetable Powder), but in any case it is powdered sulfur. So -- can I in fact mix this with the soil of the azalea? You have to sprinkle it on top of the soil. If you mix it in to the soil you destroy the shallow roots of the azalea. It is best to push back the mulch and then sprinkle it on the soil, then put the mulch back. Obviously you need to have the soil tested and determine the pH of the soil before you use it. The dosage is: Present pH = 8 use 5.5 pounds per 100 sq. feet Present pH = 7.5 use 4.5 pounds per 100 sq. feet Present pH = 7 use 3.5 pounds per 100 sq. feet Present pH = 6.5 use 2.5 pounds per 100 sq. feet Present pH = 6 use 1.0 pound per 100 sq. feet To convert to 1 square foot, divide by 100. So for every pound on the chart use 4.5 grams per square foot. A teaspoon of 90% sulfur contains about 3.5 grams of sulfur. A tablespoon of 90% sulfur contains about 11 grams of sulfur. So: Present pH = 8 use 2 tablespoons of 90% sulfur per sq. feet Present pH = 7.5 use 1 tablespoon & 2 teaspoons of 90% sulfur per sq. feet Present pH = 7 use 1 tablespoon & 1 teaspoon of 90% sulfur per sq. feet Present pH = 6.5 use 1 tablespoons of 90% sulfur per sq. feet Present pH = 6 use 1 teaspoon of 90% sulfur per sq. feet Or spray its foliage? There are chelated iron foliage sprays that can be used temporarily until the soil pH gets corrected. It takes time for powdered sulfur to adjust the pH. The sulfur is treating the soil, not the azalea. The reason you are treating the soil is because an alkaline soil will not give the azalea the proper nutrients. The chelated iron foliage spray is a temporary way to get the correct nutrients to the azalea until the soil gets where it should be. I know many on this NG are hostile to Miracle-Gro-type products, but they do make an acid fertilizer which I've never used. Is this something to consider? Miracid/Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Azalea Camellia Rhododendron Plant Food is a water soluble, nitrogen-rich powder and that is a very poor choice for outdoor azaleas. It is OK for azalea house plants and green house azaleas. Miracle Grow does have a dry slow release azalea food: Miracle-Gro Shake 'n Feed Continuous Release Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food is a better choice for outdoor azaleas, but it is plastic coated chemicals. The best choice is HollyTone. It is mostly organic natural materials that cater to the modest requirements of azaleas. Now is not a good time to fertilize except with a chelated iron foliage spray. Some chelated iron foliage sprays a Bonide Liquid Iron Lilly Miller IronSafe -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
Billy Rose wrote:
Wake up dumb bunny and google "elemental sulfur, soil pH". Why are you wasting our time? A wise man or woman once said: 'If you can't say anything nice, don't say anything.' Googling "elemental sulfur, soil pH" brings up 645,000 hits which are mostly useless as are insults. Googling ' "acidifying soil" azalea ' brings up 124 applicable hits but doesn't answer the other questions. -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at: http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at: http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6 |
Azalea chlorotic
In article ,
Stephen Henning wrote: Billy Rose wrote: Wake up dumb bunny and google "elemental sulfur, soil pH". Why are you wasting our time? A wise man or woman once said: 'If you can't say anything nice, don't say anything.' Bons mots lad, on my word, and gallantly said but compared to the spectrum of character assassination seen in "wrecked gardens" this one here, could pass for pillow talk. An elbow in the ribs, if you take my meanin'. It was only bit of encouragement that, to get off her backside and to use the grey matter found in that dormant organ between her ears, but if you want to enable her helplessness and insure her dependancy, so be it, she's your responsibility. Must 'ave been a bad idea all that twaddle about givin' fish or teaching fishin', hmmm? Googling "elemental sulfur, soil pH" brings up 645,000 hits which are mostly useless as are insults. Odd thing that. Besides the requisite offer to sell me a book, (I wonder if the dogs use Google?) the first hit I had from Google was: http://virtual.clemson.edu/groups/tu...%20Water%20Qua lity/lowering_soilph_with_eleme.htm I fancied it a decent read. You obviously have higher standards. Maybe it's your browser. Give it a good whackin'. That should fix it. Googling ' "acidifying soil" azalea ' brings up 124 applicable hits but doesn't answer the other questions. Haven't seen you around before. Don't read books by any chance do you? What ever you do, don't mention books to the dogs. It seems to put them on edge and they can do some frightful howlin' those dogs can. I've had to close me windows. -- Billy http://angryarab.blogspot.com/ |
Azalea chlorotic
On Jul 22, 9:45 am, Billy Rose wrote:
In article , Stephen Henning wrote: Billy Rose wrote: Haven't seen you around before. Don't read books by any chance do you? What ever you do, don't mention books to the dogs. It seems to put them on edge and they can do some frightful howlin' those dogs can. I've had to close me windows. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Billy Stephen Henning has been our resident azalea/rhodie guru for maybe 10 years. He always gives good advice IMO Emilie |
Azalea chlorotic
In article .com,
mleblanca wrote: On Jul 22, 9:45 am, Billy Rose wrote: In article , Stephen Henning wrote: Billy Rose wrote: Haven't seen you around before. Don't read books by any chance do you? What ever you do, don't mention books to the dogs. It seems to put them on edge and they can do some frightful howlin' those dogs can. I've had to close me windows. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Billy Stephen Henning has been our resident azalea/rhodie guru for maybe 10 years. He always gives good advice IMO Emilie Thanks for the FYI. -- Billy http://angryarab.blogspot.com/ |
Azalea chlorotic
On Jul 22, 2:45 pm, Billy Rose wrote:
In article .com, mleblanca wrote: On Jul 22, 9:45 am, Billy Rose wrote: In article , Stephen Henning wrote: Billy Rose wrote: Haven't seen you around before. Don't read books by any chance do you? What ever you do, don't mention books to the dogs. It seems to put them on edge and they can do some frightful howlin' those dogs can. I've had to close me windows. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Billy Stephen Henning has been our resident azalea/rhodie guru for maybe 10 years. He always gives good advice IMO Emilie Thanks for the FYI. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Oh you're welcome. Did you get any of that rain storm Wed? Chico got .27 inch. Didn't do much, except for giving the peaches a fungal outbreak. We were camping in the mts. and it rained off and on for 12 hours. Cold----60 degrees-brrr Emilie NorCal |
Azalea chlorotic
In article m,
mleblanca wrote: On Jul 22, 2:45 pm, Billy Rose wrote: In article .com, mleblanca wrote: On Jul 22, 9:45 am, Billy Rose wrote: In article , Stephen Henning wrote: Billy Rose wrote: Haven't seen you around before. Don't read books by any chance do you? What ever you do, don't mention books to the dogs. It seems to put them on edge and they can do some frightful howlin' those dogs can. I've had to close me windows. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Billy Stephen Henning has been our resident azalea/rhodie guru for maybe 10 years. He always gives good advice IMO Emilie Thanks for the FYI. -- Billyhttp://angryarab.blogspot.com/ Oh you're welcome. Did you get any of that rain storm Wed? Chico got .27 inch. Didn't do much, except for giving the peaches a fungal outbreak. We were camping in the mts. and it rained off and on for 12 hours. Cold----60 degrees-brrr Emilie NorCal Rain? We got a lot of drip but it's hard to call it rain. We are up to ..08" for the year. 'Course .00" would be more normal. Heard that California is called the "Golden State" because of all the golden colored hills from May to November. Works out well for the grapes though. Don't have to be fightin' rusts, smuts, and mildews all the time. What you mean you went camping in the mountains? You live in the mountains or do you mean the Sierra Nevadas, that vestige of the Pacific subduction zone which strings dormant volcanoes on up in to Oregon and Washington? Most of California came in with the Pacific Plate until the San Andreas right slip fault zone by and large put a stop to it (but it peters out a Point Mendocino). Those mountains? Maybe up to Shasta or over to Lassen or out to Weaverville and Claire-Engle Lake (the Pomos call it the boonies)? Camping under the stars, with just you, the wind, and the brown bears. Fun stuff. Lassen is really nice for spring wild flowers and the are some granite ponds north of Weaverville to die for on an Aug. afternoon. Your climate is more continental than ours. Sounds like you get an earlier start and finish, than we do here by the coast. Rains usually trigger the mildew for us in November. All the cucurbits go toes up as do the last of the 'maters. Then being on the north side of a hill the Sun ducks down below the tree line on the ridge in early Dec. and pops back up in Feb. and then were of to the races again. You havin' any water problems at the north end of the valley? So where did you go camping? -- Billy http://angryarab.blogspot.com/ |
Azalea chlorotic
mleblanca Oh you're welcome. Did you get any of that rain storm Wed? Chico got .27 inch. Didn't do much, except for giving the peaches a fungal outbreak. We were camping in the mts. and it rained off and on for 12 hours. Cold----60 degrees-brrr Emilie NorCal What you mean you went camping in the mountains? You live in the mountains or do you mean the Sierra Nevadas, Well, no to both. Chico is not UP in the mountains, we do have mountains on three sides of us, but we are in the N. Sacramento Valley, and it is flat. flat, here. And no we didn't go to the Sierra Nevada, we went to the Cascades. The Sierra is granitic and ends about at the Canyon of the N. Fork of the Feather River. And that is where the Cascade Range "begins". Cascades are volcanic.Basalt and lava tube caves and springs. Maybe up to Shasta or over to Lassen or out to Weaverville and Claire-Engle Lake (the Pomos call it the boonies)? Camping under the stars, with just you, the wind, and the brown bears. Fun stuff. Lassen is really nice for spring wild flowers and the are some granite ponds north of Weaverville to die for on an Aug. afternoon. So we went up south of Lassen National Park to the headwaters of the N. Fork Feather R. at Domingo Springs. A special spring that flows all year, with lovely, drinkable spring water! bout a half mile from the Pacific Crest Trail. Yes there were wildflowers and falls and creeks and bears, too. Found a nice bear poop up in the rocks above the campground. Just us and the bears, chickarees, and many, many, birds. Elev 5060' ( (Lassen 'spring' wildflowers usually bloom in mid July. One year it was the end of August, and there were spring and summer and fall flowers all together at the same time.) Your climate is more continental than ours. Sounds like you get an earlier start and finish, than we do here by the coast. This July rain was rather unusual, mostly we have no rain from end of May until Almond harvest. It seems to rain quite often just as soon as the trees have been 'shook'. Mid Sept? Usually no frost until Dec. About 25 inches rain is average.We had 20 degrees last winter, first time in several years. The 60 deg. was unusual too, it has been in the 90s in the valley, high 80s in mts You havin' any water problems at the north end of the valley? Not yet. The reservoirs were quite full from the 2005-6 winter rains of 43 inches. They are getting low now. Below average rain last winter Especially Oroville. However if, no, not if, WHEN all of this development is built and the population grows, it WILL be a problem So where did you go camping? Long answer to a short question..... -- Got to go I am missing Miss Marple!!!! Emilie |
Azalea chlorotic
mleblanca expounded:
Got to go I am missing Miss Marple!!!! Oooh, original? What channel? -- Ann, gardening in Zone 6a South of Boston, Massachusetts e-mail address is not checked ****************************** |
Azalea chlorotic
In article ,
Ann wrote: mleblanca expounded: Got to go I am missing Miss Marple!!!! Oooh, original? What channel? I gewahlt. -- Billy http://angryarab.blogspot.com/ |
Azalea chlorotic
On Jul 23, 5:50 am, Ann wrote:
mleblanca expounded: Got to go I am missing Miss Marple!!!! Oooh, original? What channel? -- Ann, gardening in Zone 6a South of Boston, Massachusetts e-mail address is not checked ****************************** Hiya Ann It was Nemesis. I had not seen it. (Series III) ? It was on our local PBS Channel (KIXE 9) Not much gardening here today. 85 at 10am in the shade on the porch. 95 at 1pm and still going up. Emilie |
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