Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 06:56 AM
Someone
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

I read online that milk can cure powdery mildew when diluted and sprayed on
plants. Has anyone done this successfully? I tried on some tall shrubs over
my vegetable garden but it doesn't appear to be working.


  #2   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 03:20 PM
animaux
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

I've used powdered skim milk. The lactic acid changes the pH of the leaf
surface, making it a hostile environment for the mildew. I don't recommend you
use whole milk or any milk with fat. I find one cup powder to a quart of water
works for my crape myrtles. I spray it on with a pump up sprayer and I do it
every 5 days till I see it working.


On Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:40:13 -0500, "Someone" wrote:

I read online that milk can cure powdery mildew when diluted and sprayed on
plants. Has anyone done this successfully? I tried on some tall shrubs over
my vegetable garden but it doesn't appear to be working.


  #3   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 06:20 PM
Timothy
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

On Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:40:13 -0500, Someone wrote:

I read online that milk can cure powdery mildew when diluted and sprayed
on plants. Has anyone done this successfully? I tried on some tall shrubs
over my vegetable garden but it doesn't appear to be working.


Before I'd go spraying milk all over my garden, I'd try to correct the
problem culturally. Powery mildew is generally the affect of poor air
circulation and poor sanitation. Try opening up some of your affected
plants so air can pass through and clean up all the leaf litter you can
find. Do not compost this litter... trash it or burn it. Have caution at
this time on fertilizing. New, succulant growth is more susceptible to
powery mildew.
I personally would lean more to copper based sprays to deal with powdery
mildew. You'll need to check to see if copper is ok for all your infected
plants because copper will damage somethings.
It's also in your best intrest to locate the vector (source) of this
mildew. It's very likly that it's blowing in from the neighbors house,
weeds in an open lot, the woods near your house. If you can find the
vector and destroy or treat it, you'll be far more successfully at
removing the mildew from your garden all together. If you can remove or
find the vector, your best bet is to plant mildew resistant varities.

--
http://yard-works.netfirms.com

  #4   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 07:56 PM
paghat
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

In article , "Timothy"
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:40:13 -0500, Someone wrote:

I read online that milk can cure powdery mildew when diluted and sprayed
on plants. Has anyone done this successfully? I tried on some tall shrubs
over my vegetable garden but it doesn't appear to be working.


Before I'd go spraying milk all over my garden, I'd try to correct the
problem culturally. Powery mildew is generally the affect of poor air
circulation and poor sanitation. Try opening up some of your affected
plants so air can pass through and clean up all the leaf litter you can
find. Do not compost this litter... trash it or burn it.


Good advice but a few plants, such as beebalms, clean-up & trimming just
won't stop powdery mildew, & a little "preventative" spraying of dilute
milk or of neem oil seems to be the only thing that assures these plants
are as beautiful at their seasons' end as they were at beginning & middle.
I've found skim milk effective in stopping powdery mildew from showing up
in the beebalms.

Have caution at
this time on fertilizing. New, succulant growth is more susceptible to
powery mildew.


"New succulant growth" is a common phrase in overviews about powdery
mildew. But I never see this problem except toward autumn when humidity
rises & plants are no longer putting on as much new growth. It's
wearing-down deciduous leaves or die-back perennials that are most
susceptible (I don't grow things like squashes & cucumbers, so perhaps
those have earlier "new succulent growth" problems, I dunno, but for my
plants it's exclusively something seen at the end of growing seasons). In
my garden at least the only plants ever effected have been beebalm,
honeysuckle, & the very lowest leaves of just one of our deciduous
azaleas. The azalea requires no treatment at all, as the powdery mildew
attacks only the lowest branches that touch the ground, & only at the time
the leaves are about to fall anyway; when I'm industrious I pluck them to
discard just before they fall, but even that doesn't seem to be essential.
The beebalms are another matter. I can get an extra month of beauty out of
the beebalms that will bloom into autumn if I treat them preventatively.
If I can keep the beebalms from getting mildew, then there is none to
spread to the honeysuckles which were never afflicted before the beebalms
were planted. When a gardener seems to have excellent "preventative" luck
there's always the possibility there never would've been mildew anyway,
but it really seems to me that if beebalms are milk-sprayed very
occasionally leading up to autumn, the mildew just never appears. And by
now there are several horticultural station findings that make this happy
outcome proven to be more than random gardeners' luck & lore.

I personally would lean more to copper based sprays to deal with powdery
mildew. You'll need to check to see if copper is ok for all your infected
plants because copper will damage somethings.
It's also in your best intrest to locate the vector (source) of this
mildew. It's very likly that it's blowing in from the neighbors house,
weeds in an open lot, the woods near your house. If you can find the
vector and destroy or treat it, you'll be far more successfully at
removing the mildew from your garden all together. If you can remove or
find the vector, your best bet is to plant mildew resistant varities.


I think I'm on solid ground suggesting that horticultural oil or diluted
milk are best for effectiveness against powdery mildew, & the least
chemically invasive. Milk diluted to as weak as 1 parts milk to 9 parts
water were AS GOOD as fungicides in the 1999 Brazillian study that first
proved milk was excellent for stopping powdery mildew. In stronger
concentrations (diluted to one-fifth to one-half) the efficacy increased
-- hence was vastly superior to even the best outcomes ever seen from
copper-based & sulfur-based fungicides.

Dr. Bettiol in Brazil used diluted whole milk, but other studies used
either whey or 1% milk, all with excellent outcomes. Last year I used skim
milk very effectively, but when I later saw the actual published studies,
they found that a little milk-fat improved the effect (though milk whey
was the greater factor). Last year, Peter Crisp of the University of
Adelaide (with follow-up studies at Cornell, by Dr Wilcox et al) seems
definitively to shown that dilute milk is the superior treatment for
powdery mildew (Crisp's study was on vineyards). Crisp said that milk fed
the organisms that stopped the development of mildew spoors; other papers
say it is changing the pH range just enough to retard the spoors. For
other sorts of funguses such as black-spot on roses, the Cornell study
shows that milk was not a good choice, but what did work best was
horticultural oil mixed oil with a tiny bit baking soda. This was highly
effective for BOTH powdery mildew & blackspot. But because neem oil harms
bees & ladybug larvae, I prefer milk, & I don't grow much of anything that
is susceptible to blackspot except a single large rose that I hand-pluck
for any blackspot, easily done when it's the only plant that ever gets it
even a little.

Most alleged values of compost teas have been wildly exaggerated by a new
industry designed to suck money out of gullible gardeners' pockets,
selling them all kinds of crapola that while functional is NOT more
effective or better than actually cost-effective techniques, & the
targetting recipes for narrowly derfined purposes are 95% flimflam
designed to to sell easy marks even more unnecessary crapola. But finally
some credible research is indicating that compost teas sprayed all over
plants (as opposed to in soils) feed the bacteria that compete with & eat
mildew spores in much the same way as does milk & whey. All the studies
are so new that this information really only reached the larger gardening
community between 2001 & 2002. More horticultural station studies are in
progress right now, but there's already firm agreement everywhere that
milk works extremely well without altering the flavor of crops & by
adhering to organic gardening practices. The newest question seems to be:
is a dousing of compost tea even better (at feeding the beneficial
microorganisms that devour & outcompete the mildew spoors). Crisp by the
way said that many Average Gardeners had been using milk for many years
for this purpose (long before the first revealing Brazillian study) but
until it reached university horticultural station researchers it was just
one of those unproven Lore things. Crisp didn't even mention the Dr.
Bettiol's earlier study, but knew of the milk treatment as used by people
with houseplants. Crisp seems instead to have made a list of ALL the
existing alleged treatments for powdery mildew, even those recommended by
folksy practitioners, & tested them all. Milk was the hands-down out-front
winner.

Powdery mildew spores are not highly competitive & ultimately just about
ANY treatment works to some degree (except sulfur at low temperatures).
The trick is to increase the healthful bacteria on & around the plant. Any
chemical treatment that intends to toxify the environment against fungal
development is less effective than treatments that increase the healthful
microorganisms overall. That would be milk or compost tea. Copper &
sulfur fungicides interfer with fungal enzymic activity -- but also
interfer with the enzymic acitivity of healthful soil funguses & other
microorganisms which are the greater factors in keeping mildew at bay.

I only got to try the milk treatment last year. When the beebalms became
mildewed I cut them to the ground, discarded the foliage, & as they're
fast growers they rapidly grew back with me giving them preventative
sprayings of dilute milk. The mildew did not return. Because of the
Brazillian, Cornell, & Adelaide studies, I'm convinced that my good luck
was not just one-time-random-good-luck, so I am using milk as a
preventative this year, with the expectation that I may not see the mildew
at all.

-paghat the ratgirl

--
"Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher.
"Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature.
-from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers"
See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/
  #5   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 08:32 PM
Dwight Sipler
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

paghat wrote:

...I think I'm on solid ground suggesting that horticultural oil or diluted
milk are best for effectiveness against powdery mildew, & the least
chemically invasive. Milk diluted to as weak as 1 parts milk to 9 parts
water were AS GOOD as fungicides in the 1999 Brazillian study that first
proved milk was excellent for stopping powdery mildew. In stronger
concentrations (diluted to one-fifth to one-half) the efficacy increased
-- hence was vastly superior to even the best outcomes ever seen from
copper-based & sulfur-based fungicides....
(snip)...
...The trick is to increase the healthful bacteria on & around the plant. Any
chemical treatment that intends to toxify the environment against fungal
development is less effective than treatments that increase the healthful
microorganisms overall. That would be milk or compost tea. Copper &
sulfur fungicides interfer with fungal enzymic activity -- but also
interfer with the enzymic acitivity of healthful soil funguses & other
microorganisms which are the greater factors in keeping mildew at bay...





I have heard these things (milk, baking soda) as garden lore for some
time but I'm happy to see that someone has taken the time to do a real
test and that it looks promising. For the last couple of years I have
been treating my zinnias with ZeroTol, a commercial fungicide (basically
hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, acceptable to the organic
community). However, this year I will be trying milk on some plantings
and ZT on others to try to compare the result. The powdery mildew can
also be a problem on late zucchini and other cucurbits. Given the amount
of time I (don't) have to keep records (I can just barely keep my spray
log up to date), I doubt that this will be a real scientific study, but
I hope at least to get an overview of whether it works or not for me.

Email me next fall and ask me how it went.


  #6   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 09:08 PM
Timothy
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

On Wed, 23 Apr 2003 10:59:57 -0700, paghat wrote:

sniped
Good advice but a few plants, such as beebalms, clean-up & trimming just
won't stop powdery mildew, & a little "preventative" spraying of dilute
milk or of neem oil seems to be the only thing that assures these plants
are as beautiful at their seasons' end as they were at beginning & middle.
I've found skim milk effective in stopping powdery mildew from showing up
in the beebalms.

sniped
"New succulant growth" is a common phrase in overviews about powdery
mildew. But I never see this problem except toward autumn when humidity
rises & plants are no longer putting on as much new growth. It's
wearing-down deciduous leaves or die-back perennials that are most
susceptible (I don't grow things like squashes & cucumbers, so perhaps
those have earlier "new succulent growth" problems, I dunno, but for my
plants it's exclusively something seen at the end of growing seasons). In
my garden at least the only plants ever effected have been beebalm,
honeysuckle, & the very lowest leaves of just one of our deciduous
azaleas. The azalea requires no treatment at all, as the powdery mildew
attacks only the lowest branches that touch the ground, & only at the time
the leaves are about to fall anyway; when I'm industrious I pluck them to
discard just before they fall, but even that doesn't seem to be essential.
The beebalms are another matter. I can get an extra month of beauty out of
the beebalms that will bloom into autumn if I treat them preventatively.
If I can keep the beebalms from getting mildew, then there is none to
spread to the honeysuckles which were never afflicted before the beebalms
were planted. When a gardener seems to have excellent "preventative" luck
there's always the possibility there never would've been mildew anyway,
but it really seems to me that if beebalms are milk-sprayed very
occasionally leading up to autumn, the mildew just never appears. And by
now there are several horticultural station findings that make this happy
outcome proven to be more than random gardeners' luck & lore.

sniped
I think I'm on solid ground suggesting that horticultural oil or diluted
milk are best for effectiveness against powdery mildew, & the least
chemically invasive. Milk diluted to as weak as 1 parts milk to 9 parts
water were AS GOOD as fungicides in the 1999 Brazillian study that first
proved milk was excellent for stopping powdery mildew. In stronger
concentrations (diluted to one-fifth to one-half) the efficacy increased
-- hence was vastly superior to even the best outcomes ever seen from
copper-based & sulfur-based fungicides.

Dr. Bettiol in Brazil used diluted whole milk, but other studies used
either whey or 1% milk, all with excellent outcomes. Last year I used skim
milk very effectively, but when I later saw the actual published studies,
they found that a little milk-fat improved the effect (though milk whey
was the greater factor). Last year, Peter Crisp of the University of
Adelaide (with follow-up studies at Cornell, by Dr Wilcox et al) seems
definitively to shown that dilute milk is the superior treatment for
powdery mildew (Crisp's study was on vineyards). Crisp said that milk fed
the organisms that stopped the development of mildew spoors; other papers
say it is changing the pH range just enough to retard the spoors. For
other sorts of funguses such as black-spot on roses, the Cornell study
shows that milk was not a good choice, but what did work best was
horticultural oil mixed oil with a tiny bit baking soda. This was highly
effective for BOTH powdery mildew & blackspot. But because neem oil harms
bees & ladybug larvae, I prefer milk, & I don't grow much of anything that
is susceptible to blackspot except a single large rose that I hand-pluck
for any blackspot, easily done when it's the only plant that ever gets it
even a little.

Most alleged values of compost teas have been wildly exaggerated by a new
industry designed to suck money out of gullible gardeners' pockets,
selling them all kinds of crapola that while functional is NOT more
effective or better than actually cost-effective techniques, & the
targetting recipes for narrowly derfined purposes are 95% flimflam
designed to to sell easy marks even more unnecessary crapola. But finally
some credible research is indicating that compost teas sprayed all over
plants (as opposed to in soils) feed the bacteria that compete with & eat
mildew spores in much the same way as does milk & whey. All the studies
are so new that this information really only reached the larger gardening
community between 2001 & 2002. More horticultural station studies are in
progress right now, but there's already firm agreement everywhere that
milk works extremely well without altering the flavor of crops & by
adhering to organic gardening practices. The newest question seems to be:
is a dousing of compost tea even better (at feeding the beneficial
microorganisms that devour & outcompete the mildew spoors). Crisp by the
way said that many Average Gardeners had been using milk for many years
for this purpose (long before the first revealing Brazillian study) but
until it reached university horticultural station researchers it was just
one of those unproven Lore things. Crisp didn't even mention the Dr.
Bettiol's earlier study, but knew of the milk treatment as used by people
with houseplants. Crisp seems instead to have made a list of ALL the
existing alleged treatments for powdery mildew, even those recommended by
folksy practitioners, & tested them all. Milk was the hands-down out-front
winner.

Powdery mildew spores are not highly competitive & ultimately just about
ANY treatment works to some degree (except sulfur at low temperatures).
The trick is to increase the healthful bacteria on & around the plant. Any
chemical treatment that intends to toxify the environment against fungal
development is less effective than treatments that increase the healthful
microorganisms overall. That would be milk or compost tea. Copper &
sulfur fungicides interfer with fungal enzymic activity -- but also
interfer with the enzymic acitivity of healthful soil funguses & other
microorganisms which are the greater factors in keeping mildew at bay.

I only got to try the milk treatment last year. When the beebalms became
mildewed I cut them to the ground, discarded the foliage, & as they're
fast growers they rapidly grew back with me giving them preventative
sprayings of dilute milk. The mildew did not return. Because of the
Brazillian, Cornell, & Adelaide studies, I'm convinced that my good luck
was not just one-time-random-good-luck, so I am using milk as a
preventative this year, with the expectation that I may not see the mildew
at all.


This is great information. Thanks for clarifying this for me. I have a few
customers who would like to try such a spray but I've never been able to
find concrete evidence on it's effectiveness and use. Have these studies
been published on the net? If so, could you point me to them? Thanks for
your time....
--
http://yard-works.netfirms.com

  #7   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 09:20 PM
Dwight Sipler
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

Timothy wrote:

...This is great information. Thanks for clarifying this for me. I have a few
customers who would like to try such a spray but I've never been able to
find concrete evidence on it's effectiveness and use. Have these studies
been published on the net? If so, could you point me to them? ...



Try google ["powdery mildew" milk]

You'll get a lot of stuff, much of it looks like short blurbs for
magazines or newsletters, but some of it will have real references. I'm
going to see if our extension service can put something out on the
subject.
  #8   Report Post  
Old 23-04-2003, 09:20 PM
Timothy
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

On Wed, 23 Apr 2003 15:08:40 -0400, Dwight Sipler wrote:

Timothy wrote:

...This is great information. Thanks for clarifying this for me. I have a
few
customers who would like to try such a spray but I've never been able to
find concrete evidence on it's effectiveness and use. Have these studies
been published on the net? If so, could you point me to them? ...



Try google ["powdery mildew" milk]

You'll get a lot of stuff, much of it looks like short blurbs for
magazines or newsletters, but some of it will have real references. I'm
going to see if our extension service can put something out on the
subject.


I'm well aware of google and have already done so. Just as you have
stated, there are a lot of 'short blurbs' on the subject but I would like
to see the quoted studies. I know Cornell is rather good at publishing their
studies on the net but didn't see anything from them as of yet. Besides...
would love to add another link to my bookmarks folder ;0)
--
http://yard-works.netfirms.com

  #9   Report Post  
Old 24-04-2003, 01:08 AM
paghat
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

In article , "Timothy"
wrote:

[clips]

This is great information. Thanks for clarifying this for me. I have a few
customers who would like to try such a spray but I've never been able to
find concrete evidence on it's effectiveness and use. Have these studies
been published on the net? If so, could you point me to them? Thanks for
your time....



If you don't live near an agricultural college (the library will have all
the relevant recent articles to hand) then you'll have to go through a
regular library's InterLibrary Loan, & usually there's no fee for
photocopies. Ask for Williams & Williams: "Cow's Milk Vs Powdery Mildew"
in HortIdeas Dec 1999; You could e-mail Peter Crisp direct for
tear-sheets of his paper in the "Australian Grapegrower and Winemaker," or
for other fragments of his larger research (the whole study is a PhD
thesis). His e-mail is
Or get paraphrases of the research at several credible websites; here's a
copy of the initial press release from U of Adelaide:
http://www.adelaide.edu.au/pr/media/.../milkwine.html
Bettiol's signal research is in several journals, but the entirety of one
of his papers is also he
http://www.agrar.de/agenda/bettiol.htm
but I first saw it paraphrased in ORGANIC GARDENING. There are several
other things available as PDF files I downloaded to my desktop but didn't
keep a record of where I got them. But one PDF file of Bettiol's research
can be downloaded he
http://147.46.94.112/journal/sej/ful...908_180801.pdf

Cornell has a large powdery mildew research project that goes back many,
many years. All the articles you can find before year 2000 are about
efficacy of sundry fungicides & of a single biofungicide, including
horticultural oil which they like to cite by trademark name to get the
advertisement in for their sponsor. As late as 2000 Cornell promoted
fungicides & the one biofungicide obtainable from their funding sources as
"the only" effective treatments; the biofungicide AQ10 has since been
shown to be one of the poorest of options & Cornell's research in its
favor now looks more than averagely funding-source-driven. Cornell was
also funded to find out if tydeid mites could control powdery mildew; the
mites worked but the method commercially impractical for cost reasons, yet
Cornell did a premature press release favorable to their funding source
anyway (these types of press releases are primarily to please funders &
frequently the findings at the end of a study are not so thrilling as the
promises originally made, but there will be no further press releases
unless they can again please the sponsors). Here's Cornell's original
press release from 1999,
http://www.news.cornell.edu/releases.../Mite.bpf.html
all but promising tydeid mites were the cat's meow of powdery fungus
control, soonafter dropped like a hot potato when within a month the
efficacy & ultra cost-effectiveness of milk became known.

Cornell would never admit the outcome of their research is ever influenced
by brand funding, built-in promotions of brand-name products
notwithstanding. And the premature "promotion" of methods that will go
down in flames -- that's just part of the publicity machine & is
completely out of the hands of the scientists per se. But it's harder to
deny the dilemma it put them in when they have a decade's worth of
research proving the exellence of fungicides, such as the chemical
industry LOVED and re-funded such research annually without a blink to
keep the good news coming -- then suddenly all that research is outmoded
by finding out milk works better. From the chemical industry's point of
view, the fungicides are going to be FOREVER supported by outdated Cornell
studies, just like the herbal medicines industry will cite articles fifty
years disproven if that's all they have. And Cornell might still expect
refunding-without-a-blink if they can just hold off being too aggressive
about getting the news out that milk is better.

The "Cornell formula" as Cornell first promoted it implied one should use
Safers Sunspray oil plus baking soda. Getting a trademarked name in there
had nothing to do with the science of it & everything to do with their
funding. That they recommended Sodium bicarbonate mixed with the trademark
product instead of Potassium bicarbonate was a complete error -- the
once-famed Cornell formula was so focused on promoting their sponsor's
oil, they failed even to find out the addition of Potassium b. would be
way better than Sodium b. The corrected formula is still recommendable as
the foremost treatment for blackspot, but for powdery mildew milk is
easiest & nothing exceeds it. Cornell has included that fact in
"overviews" of all the methods available, but still seemed to highlight
trademarked products & bury the essential details re milk further down the
list.

Cornell cannot afford to put organic methods research high on their
agenda until & unless some of their MINOR funders, such as the Organic
Farming Research Foundation, can begin to compete with the chemical
industry dollar for dollar, which will never happen. If you think that's
cynical, you should see what goes on behind the scenes at a research
hospital, where human lives are even more in the balance, & it's the drug
industry's money rather than patients' health needs that call all the
shots. Anyway, in the meantime, web-wise, a conflicted Cornell seems to
rely on Science News and Science Daily News to paraphrase their research.
And Peter Crisp in Australia & Wagner Bettiol in Brazil continue to get
all the glory. (Crisp by the way was funded by vintners eager to obtain
organic alternatives for grape-growing, or it might never have been
researched -- it's always the money that speaks before the science.)

-paghat the ratgirl

--
"Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher.
"Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature.
-from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers"
See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/
  #10   Report Post  
Old 24-04-2003, 04:20 AM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

there is no lactic acid in powdered skim milk. there is the sugar called lactose.
lactic acid is the fermentation product of glucose. however, milk is slightly
alkaline, a condition that can be reproduced with baking soda. Ingrid

I've used powdered skim milk. The lactic acid changes the pH of the leaf
surface, making it a hostile environment for the mildew.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.


  #13   Report Post  
Old 24-04-2003, 03:08 PM
animaux
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

Thanks for the correction.

On Thu, 24 Apr 2003 02:07:33 GMT, wrote:

there is no lactic acid in powdered skim milk. there is the sugar called lactose.
lactic acid is the fermentation product of glucose. however, milk is slightly
alkaline, a condition that can be reproduced with baking soda. Ingrid

I've used powdered skim milk. The lactic acid changes the pH of the leaf
surface, making it a hostile environment for the mildew.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.


  #14   Report Post  
Old 24-04-2003, 04:20 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Milk for powdery mildew

bacteria like wet conditions. the quickest growing bacteria divide every 20 minutes
in optimal conditions. would have to be soaking wet for bacteria to grow.
Ingrid

Tom Jaszewski wrote:
Is it possible that lactobacillus could grow? I understand there is
some work with that bacteria and disease suppression.





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
BST MILK and Ordinary MILK Indistinquishable? Not Really. Ron sci.agriculture 88 21-07-2003 08:22 AM
Controlling powdery mildew w/ milk ratSenoL Texas 0 17-06-2003 07:08 PM
powdery mildew? Kostas Kavoussanakis United Kingdom 0 09-05-2003 07:45 PM
Powdery mildew on Japanese Maple (acer palmatum) jimitheskin Bonsai 1 11-04-2003 04:20 PM
[IBC] Powdery mildew on Japanese Maple (acer palmatum) kevin bailey Bonsai 0 11-04-2003 10:56 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:13 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 GardenBanter.co.uk.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Gardening"

 

Copyright © 2017