http://www.google.com/search?client=...ct+seed+vs+tra
nsplant&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/e...mnews/oct03/oc
t03transplanting.html

³The only reason we still direct seed is that our direct-seeded tomatoes
harvest earlier than the transplanted ones,² Sheely says.


Had to say it twice. My Dad said that when it is ripe to plant they
respond well. I'd add control makes us feel like we know what is going
on.

Bill

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

In article , Charlie wrote:

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 16:28:27 -0400, Bill wrote:

http://www.google.com/search?client=...ct+seed+vs+tra
nsplant&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/e...mnews/oct03/oc
t03transplanting.html

³The only reason we still direct seed is that our direct-seeded tomatoes
harvest earlier than the transplanted ones,² Sheely says.


Had to say it twice. My Dad said that when it is ripe to plant they
respond well. I'd add control makes us feel like we know what is going
on.

Bill

I just thought of a downside to this method. I always have volunteer
tomatoes in the garden, from dropped tomatoes and from compost.

How could you be sure of what was what?

Charlie

How about taking SOME of our seeds and plant directly close to time
appropriate . Names make us feel like we know what is what .Still the
ones in my compost seem to ignore false starts and grow because it is
their nature. I hope this sheds light on why do we may or may not need
potting soil.
I like to start things in my cold frame but maybe it is my ego.

Heavy duty questions no answers just on going experiments.

http://www.google.com/search?client=...ect+seed+vs+tr
ansplant&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8




Bill

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

Charlie wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 16:28:27 -0400, Bill wrote:

http://www.google.com/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/e...splanting.html

³The only reason we still direct seed is that our direct-seeded tomatoes
harvest earlier than the transplanted ones,² Sheely says.


Had to say it twice. My Dad said that when it is ripe to plant they
respond well. I'd add control makes us feel like we know what is going
on.

Bill

I just thought of a downside to this method. I always have volunteer
tomatoes in the garden, from dropped tomatoes and from compost.

How could you be sure of what was what?

I just bought six of the dregs of Home Depot's late season tomato plants.
All different varieties; half heirloom and half uncommon (at least to me).
That seed savers site mentioned keeping them 10' apart to limit
cross-pollination, but that's not going to happen. I'm intrigued to save
these seeds and see what their babies are like next year.
Who knows if they're even labeled right at HD. One looks like a pumpkin
vine.... Threw them in pots of compost from my three-year old pile. Lots of
white powdery fungus in the pile......... I'm only going to feed them a
puree of eggshells, banana, and coffee grounds, with a little molasses and
fruit juice........ same as last year.

On Apr 29, 8:15 am, Charlie wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 17:03:31 -0400, Bill wrote:
How about taking SOME of our seeds and plant directly close to time
appropriate . Names make us feel like we know what is what .Still the
ones in my compost seem to ignore false starts and grow because it is
their nature. I hope this sheds light on why do we may or may not need
potting soil.
I like to start things in my cold frame but maybe it is my ego.

Heavy duty questions no answers just on going experiments.

Life is lots of questions and few answers, eh? And the ego is a bit
problematic for sure.

This exchange keeps bringing me back to the method you once related
about the guy that broadcast mixed seeds in a large area and worked
them in. Kinda like walking thru a living farmers market when hungry.

I am going to try directseeding some tomatoes and hope for the best.
If one is counting upon beefsteaks and gets cherries,
though.........;-)

In the 80's, I taught a graduate course in ecology in the Puget Sound
region. One of the field trips we took was to Fr. Lewis. Their
sewage treatment was state of the art, for a number of reasons. They
also had a HUGE covered sludge drying bed. The sludge would dry into
"concrete", but the public was allowed to come in and grind up blocks
of it in provided hand-cranked grinders and take as much as they
wanted for fertilizer.
A side effect was "easter egg" tomatoes -- you never knew what you
would get, but you always got some.

cheers

oz, who once got smallish, pear shaped, yellow tomatoes from using
that stuff.

Charlie wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:09:09 -0500, "cat daddy"
wrote:

snip

Hey Daddio, good to see you back around!

To much other stuff to do anything but lurk. I still read most things, but
too lazy to type.......

I just bought six of the dregs of Home Depot's late season tomato
plants.
All different varieties; half heirloom and half uncommon (at least to
me).
That seed savers site mentioned keeping them 10' apart to limit
cross-pollination, but that's not going to happen. I'm intrigued to save
these seeds and see what their babies are like next year.

I've save seeds from tomatoes growing right next to each other. Don't
save seeds from double blossom/ double tomatoes. Suzanne Ashworth says
that potato leaf varieties may cross if in close proximity.

Ah, explains the "pumpkin" vine one. It may just be deformed and was one
of two that lost their labels through the checkout to home transport.

Who knows if they're even labeled right at HD. One looks like a pumpkin
vine.... Threw them in pots of compost from my three-year old pile. Lots
of
white powdery fungus in the pile......... I'm only going to feed them a
puree of eggshells, banana, and coffee grounds, with a little molasses
and
fruit juice........ same as last year.

OK....this sounds like a recipe or something. I don't understand. I
sense I need an explanation of your method. Straight aged compost as
growing medium, good and fungal, fed the mix you describe....what
gives? Something do do with the fungus???

No method other than laziness and practicality. Compost (as is) 'cause I
have it. Too lazy and pressed for time to sift it. I have few kitchen
leavings except for the above and it seems too little for my compost heap.
My old neighbour used to grow fantastic potted plants with nothing but our
backyard "dirt" and only added eggshells. Which was silly as our soil has
abundant calcium. But who's to argue with egg mojo....... The other stuff is
known to feed the microbiology, so that's where it's going.
I'm also curious how these tomatoes do, considering all I did was scrape
up some organic backyard "debris" and plant. May be useful for the future.
Not everyone can afford to buy all the groovy stuff. I know that it did fine
for me last year, cost nothing extra, and produced more than enough for the
lazy effort...

As soon as it warms up a little more I am going to be making compost
tea.

I'm really getting into this composting thing this year. I'm about to
run out of acceptable areas to be building piles. I've access to
unlimited horsepoo, grass clippings, leaves.....it's looking goooood!

Gardening is just a necessary by-product of the composting
obsession...... I'm still working through the huge finished pile of three
years ago.

On Apr 30, 6:03 am, "cat daddy" wrote:
Charlie wrote in message

...

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:09:09 -0500, "cat daddy"
wrote:

snip



Hey Daddio, good to see you back around!

To much other stuff to do anything but lurk. I still read most things, but
too lazy to type.......



I just bought six of the dregs of Home Depot's late season tomato
plants.
All different varieties; half heirloom and half uncommon (at least to
me).
That seed savers site mentioned keeping them 10' apart to limit
cross-pollination, but that's not going to happen. I'm intrigued to save
theseseedsand see what their babies are like next year.

I've saveseedsfrom tomatoes growing right next to each other. Don't
saveseedsfrom double blossom/ double tomatoes. Suzanne Ashworth says
that potato leaf varieties may cross if in close proximity.

Ah, explains the "pumpkin" vine one. It may just be deformed and was one
of two that lost their labels through the checkout to home transport.



Who knows if they're even labeled right at HD. One looks like a pumpkin
vine.... Threw them in pots of compost from my three-year old pile. Lots
of
white powdery fungus in the pile......... I'm only going to feed them a
puree of eggshells, banana, and coffee grounds, with a little molasses
and
fruit juice........ same as last year.

OK....this sounds like a recipe or something. I don't understand. I
sense I need an explanation of your method. Straight aged compost as
growing medium, good and fungal, fed the mix you describe....what
gives? Something do do with the fungus???

No method other than laziness and practicality. Compost (as is) 'cause I
have it. Too lazy and pressed for time to sift it. I have few kitchen
leavings except for the above and it seems too little for my compost heap.
My old neighbour used to grow fantastic potted plants with nothing but our
backyard "dirt" and only added eggshells. Which was silly as our soil has
abundant calcium. But who's to argue with egg mojo....... The other stuff is
known to feed the microbiology, so that's where it's going.
I'm also curious how these tomatoes do, considering all I did was scrape
up someorganicbackyard "debris" and plant. May be useful for the future.
Not everyone can afford to buy all the groovy stuff. I know that it did fine
for me last year, cost nothing extra, and produced more than enough for the
lazy effort...

As soon as it warms up a little more I am going to be making compost
tea.

I'm really getting into this composting thing this year. I'm about to
run out of acceptable areas to be building piles. I've access to
unlimited horsepoo, grass clippings, leaves.....it's looking goooood!

Gardening is just a necessary by-product of the composting
obsession...... I'm still working through the huge finished pile of three
years ago.

you can find large range of organic seeds in www.genesisseeds.com .
the seeds are certified organic by the NOP.

keperman