"Dioclese" NONE wrote in message
...
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message
et...
I have just ordered a 5ft x 3 ft pent shed with door on the longer side,
for my allotment.

But how to prepare base? I thinking of just whacking down a few runners?

Looked at loads of articles on google including :

http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....oundation.html

But maybe , this is all overkill ?

What do people with real practical experience think is best way to go?

Ed

You leave the reader wondering what the shsd base is made of, at the very
least. Further, you are simply expanding on that by asking a question
that may not have bearing if one had some limited knowledge of the shed
and soil and elevation it will set on itself. If you can't ask a specific
queston with specific information to base an answer on, butt out.
--
Dave
Confront and fight Obama zombieism


Maybe I should have said: Due to lack of information on the shed, soil, and
elevation details where the shed will be, I must bow out in providing a
suitable solution for your question.
--
Dave
Confront and fight Obama zombieism

On Mar 28, 2:45*pm, "Granby" wrote:
"You are never to old to play in the dirt" *I love this and will post it
over my potting table.

Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
on playgrounds? *I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
would be good for wintering. *Live in Ill. zone 5


With mulch like that, how would you get it back up next spring so that
you can till the garden again?

If you plow it under, it will never rot and will just be trash in the
dirt.

Sorry, I guess I was clear as mud. I plant in pots these days not too much
in the ground. I also put down a circle of the landscaping cloth type stuff
to help hold in the moisture and not to have to worry about any weeds. I
would use this mulch in the long flower boxes in front of the house that are
in sun most of the day, that is why the question about too much heat.
"CanopyCo" wrote in message
...
On Mar 28, 2:45 pm, "Granby" wrote:
"You are never to old to play in the dirt" I love this and will post it
over my potting table.

Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
on playgrounds? I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
would be good for wintering. Live in Ill. zone 5


With mulch like that, how would you get it back up next spring so that
you can till the garden again?

If you plow it under, it will never rot and will just be trash in the
dirt.

On Mar 29, 5:03*pm, "Granby" wrote:
Sorry, I guess I was clear as mud. *I plant in pots these days not too much
in the ground. *I also put down a circle of the landscaping cloth type stuff
to help hold in the moisture and not to have to worry about any weeds. *I
would use this mulch in the long flower boxes in front of the house that are
in sun most of the day, that is why the question about too much heat."CanopyCo" wrote in message

...
On Mar 28, 2:45 pm, "Granby" wrote:

"You are never to old to play in the dirt" I love this and will post it
over my potting table.

Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
on playgrounds? I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
would be good for wintering. Live in Ill. zone 5

With mulch like that, how would you get it back up next spring so that
you can till the garden again?

If you plow it under, it will never rot and will just be trash in the
dirt.

I got ya.
I have my head so far into my own garden that I completely forgot
about other methods.
:-/


Seen a deal called a salad table at
http://growit.umd.edu/
and may try that this year.

I’ve also been thinking about making a box for tomatoes.
Depends on if I can find enough wood around for that one.
At least this year I can start on the cedar limb cadge that would
eventually go on top of the box.

mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?

--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.

Frederick Williams wrote:
mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?
Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is covered
in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof felt would
do the same?
--
Buy a poppy....help a serviceman
Pete C
London UK

"Pete C" wrote in message
...


Frederick Williams wrote:
mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?
Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is
covered in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof
felt would do the same?
--


That was yonks ago! I would imagine the shed has long been built.

Yes, to stop rising damp getting to the wooden bearers.

mark

mark wrote:

"Pete C" wrote in message
...


Frederick Williams wrote:
mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?
Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is
covered in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof
felt would do the same?
--

That was yonks ago!

I'm a slow reader.

--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.

"Frederick Williams" wrote in message
...
mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?

--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.

Not really necessary if the floor runners are tanalised timber, but have a
look at this aynway:-

http://www.homebase.co.uk/wcsstore/h...erect_shed.pdf

Quite a comprehensive set of instructions for you.

Bill

Bill Grey wrote:

"Frederick Williams" wrote in message
...
mark wrote:

You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.

What's the purpose of that?

--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.

Not really necessary if the floor runners are tanalised timber, but have a
look at this aynway:-

http://www.homebase.co.uk/wcsstore/h...erect_shed.pdf

Quite a comprehensive set of instructions for you.

Thank you. I had to look up 'tanalised'.

--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.

Hi

We build a href="http://www.garenberg.co.uk/garden-offices.html"garden offices/a all over the country.

It is true you will need to have an air gap under the shed or it will rot.

The foundation will depend on the ground type. As its a shed you will not want to spend too much but you need to ensure you have a solid base. If your going for sepate pads using concrete blocks you need to make sure the block sits on firm ground. This can be as easy as removing a few inches of top soil to uncover a firm stoney substate. However if its wet and boggy with soft ground going down a long way you will need to dig larger holes, say 1.5' deep and fill and compact with hardcore. If the latter is the case it will probably be easier to put down a whole area of hardcore and compact the lot as discribed in an earlier post.

For all the information on garden sheds / building garden sheds and garden shed bases try: http://1c54bjzd3wrkn6cos3rfy6ugbw.hop.clickbank.net/ we found the information invaluable.
All the best
Gardenjunkie

Hi Ed,

I liked the following alternative to the base for a shed using a post footing instead of proper small foundations. I think the main thing to consider when just whacking the ground to flatten it out is to take off the topsoil and get to a good hard subsoil underneath then when you then compact the soil down it will compact well, ready for your shed. Top soil is mainly organic material so is quite springy so your shed will be more likely to sink into it. Just make sure you put some kind of barrier between the foot of the shed and the soil.

An article that I read that goes into this in more detail is

Some Top Tips on How to Build a Shed

Hope this helps.

The foundation will depend on the type of ground. As one of its shed, you do not want to spend too much money, but you must make sure you have a solid foundation. If you go to the sepate pad using concrete blocks, you need to ensure that the block sits a solid foundation. This can be regarded as easy to remove a few inches of topsoil found a strong Stony child status.

If it does, again just putting a accurate block at anniversary bend will do. If it does not accept a floor, again I would put down a band of drove bedrock and put the afford on that. The capital affair is that you do not wish copse affecting dirt. It can blow bedrock or concrete, but not dirt, or it will rot.