I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based conditioner, and some
vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC line
with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers. I
have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding the rows
may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows. I go out about
three times a day and spray so the top is moist. I have some planted seeds
germinating, and some nursery plants going. They look pretty good actually.
The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb that goes
into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and crimp the ends shut.

What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and hanging pots.
But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

In article ,
"SteveB" wrote:


What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and hanging pots.
But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

I think drip with mulch. I use a drip hose. Cheap and does the job
here. I run about 6 50 foot lines one 100 foot. Got a rain gauge
that transmit info though I usually just look at the plant life for
sadness. This in NJ USA not in drought. However I once mulched real
heavy and the summer was overly wet and it is easy to put on but hard
to take water off.

Bill

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

Music look for Wim Mertens

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based conditioner, and
some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC line
with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers. I
have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding the
rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows. I go
out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist. I have some
planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They look
pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb that
goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and crimp the
ends shut.

What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and hanging pots.
But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more
about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

You're no longer a newbie... you've been going on and on for months about
your fercocktah garden and especially about watering... WTF don't you get
it over with already, **** on it! LOL

In article ,
"brooklyn1" wrote:

WTF don't you get
it over with already, **** on it! LOL

Shelly, your daughter still available for stage parties?
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Zunx_goz4


http://www.democracynow.org/2009/6/2...ra_hass_on_the

In article ,
"SteveB" wrote:

I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based conditioner, and some
vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC line
with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers. I
have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding the rows
may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows. I go out about
three times a day and spray so the top is moist. I have some planted seeds
germinating, and some nursery plants going. They look pretty good actually.
The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb that goes
into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and crimp the ends shut.

What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and hanging pots.
But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Irrigation is wasteful. Misting and spraying may be good for ornamentals
but will cover your tomatoes and cucurbita with mold and mildew by the
shortened end of your gardening season. Drip is the watering of
preference, along with a (bi?)weekly hand watering, just to stay in
contact with your plants.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Zunx_goz4


http://www.democracynow.org/2009/6/2...ra_hass_on_the

Billy wrote:

SteveB wrote:
[....]

What is the best way to water?

weekly hand watering, just to stay in
contact with your plants.

I recommend 2 two gallon jugs with sprinkler tips. watering each
plant individually gives you the chance to inspect the plant and
do a some close hand weeding around each plant.

carrying water to each plant and only each plant reduces weed growth,
provides some good exercise and reduces the overall amount of water
required to produce the edibles.

http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...arden2005.html
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...2007-gard.html


----
whoever said a job well done never needs redoing never weeded a garden...

SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you water
thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably be
something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near root
level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may require
more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out too quickly
you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to lower
humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity for
plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding the
complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly asking the
same question over a short period makes people wonder if you are paying
attention.

David

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
water thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
require more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out
too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
lower humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity
for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
are paying attention.

David


I seriously doubt he has any garden... so far he's shown us nothing...
John's garden is in the dreaming/trolling stage.

"brooklyn1" wrote:

WTF don't you get
it over with already, **** on it! LOL

You still around, you silly troll? Get a life.

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
water thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
require more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out
too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
lower humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity
for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
are paying attention.

David

I'm just working with what I have. I have lots of pipes and connectors, and
such. Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have a drip
system in place now. I like to do things once and do it right. This first
year is an experiment for two purposes. One is for me to learn, and second
to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that her ideas about just
sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short of what is needed.

For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing proletariat
vote is not counted. I had a hell of a time getting pressure reducers just
to feed the small lines I already had.

"What's the difference?" was the common question.

"Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf ears
that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to rumor,
innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are allowed
to happen to all knowing persons.

"I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house. But I digress.
The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

sigh

Steve

SteveB wrote:

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house. But I
digress. The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................



What species? Do you know its likely ultimate size? Do you know its
propensity to drop branches (even in calm weather)? I have references that
will tell you these things and provide some data about the chances of it
destroying your roof if you are interested. There is plenty of newsreel
footage taken every time there is a good storm round here showing what
eucalypts do to houses - perhaps SWMBO could view some.

David

In article ,
"SteveB" wrote:

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
water thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
require more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out
too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
lower humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity
for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
are paying attention.

David

I'm just working with what I have. I have lots of pipes and connectors, and
such. Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have a drip
system in place now. I like to do things once and do it right. This first
year is an experiment for two purposes. One is for me to learn, and second
to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that her ideas about just
sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short of what is needed.

For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing proletariat
vote is not counted. I had a hell of a time getting pressure reducers just
to feed the small lines I already had.

"What's the difference?" was the common question.

"Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf ears
that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to rumor,
innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are allowed
to happen to all knowing persons.

"I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house. But I digress.
The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

sigh

Steve

You know you could save a lot in amendments by planting "green manure"
as a cover crop. Rye to condition the soil and legumes to pump nitrogen
into it. Stump might even make a nice place to sit, and look over your
garden.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Zunx_goz4


http://www.democracynow.org/2009/6/2...ra_hass_on_the

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which
in turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water
and time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
water thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
require more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out
too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
lower humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity
for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes
common veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
are paying attention.

David

I'm just working with what I have. I have lots of pipes and connectors,
and such. Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have
a drip system in place now. I like to do things once and do it right.
This first year is an experiment for two purposes. One is for me to
learn, and second to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that
her ideas about just sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short
of what is needed.

For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing
proletariat vote is not counted. I had a hell of a time getting pressure
reducers just to feed the small lines I already had.

"What's the difference?" was the common question.

"Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf
ears that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to
rumor, innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are
allowed to happen to all knowing persons.

"I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house. But I
digress. The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

sigh

Steve


Your wife knows much more about gardening, I bet she can hardly wait to
plant you! hehe

In article ,
"brooklyn1" wrote:

Your wife knows much more about gardening, I bet she can hardly wait to
plant you! hehe

Is your life so pitiful, that abuse is all you have?
You have no business here. You could write the same words in any group,
not that any would want you. What a sad, dreary life you must lead.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Zunx_goz4


http://www.democracynow.org/2009/6/2...ra_hass_on_the

"Billy" wrote in message
news:wildbilly-50861D.00114017062009@c-61-
You know you could save a lot in amendments by planting "green manure"
as a cover crop. Rye to condition the soil and legumes to pump nitrogen
into it.

I like buckwheat as a good quick hot weather crop. You can get in three or
four plantings in a single season, and it gives lots of mulch when you cut
it down. I believe SteveB is the one who lives near me in southern Utah
(there are so many Steves on this NG it is hard to keep them straight), and
if so, I can guarantee him that buckwheat grows well around here with
virtually no care. I've got it growing in my tomato beds right now. I also
like canola for breaking up hard clay soil, and I like my crimson clover
(which is surprisingly growing even in this heat) to add nitrogen and
attract beneficial insects with its bright flowers. I feel that if you can
keep the ground covered with vegetation that will pull nutrients to the
surface AND provide future mulch, there is no reason to spend loads of time
and money on bagged amendments. Bulk seeds are cheap, and having the ground
consistently covered with vegetation discourages weeds. I understand the
desire to get the soil in good condition RIGHT NOW, but really, after just
two years of using no-till practices, I've got a good 3-4 inch layer of rich
black dirt in my beds, so it really doesn't take long at all to do it
naturally.
--S.