clay soil
 

we have a fairly large plot that use to be a vegatable plot.but due to my partner having bad ankles and me having back problems we can no longer keep on top of it.we can't afford to pay a gardener so i have to tackle it myself.but the soil is rock solid ,i can't even get a spade into it.the weeds and clumps of grass are impoosible to dig up.the only time it's easier to dig is after heavy rainfall .but even then i find the rotovator bounces off the clods of soil once it has dried out.is there any way i can get over these problems.i can't do too much at a time because of my back.

clay soil
 

In article ,
net1961 wrote:

we have a fairly large plot that use to be a vegatable plot.but due to
my partner having bad ankles and me having back problems we can no
longer keep on top of it.we can't afford to pay a gardener so i have to
tackle it myself.but the soil is rock solid ,i can't even get a spade
into it.the weeds and clumps of grass are impoosible to dig up.the only
time it's easier to dig is after heavy rainfall .but even then i find
the rotovator bounces off the clods of soil once it has dried out.is
there any way i can get over these problems.i can't do too much at a
time because of my back.

Cover the area with 2 or 3 sheets of newsprint or a single sheet of
cardboard. Spread whatever types of soil amendments that you think you
may need (manure, rock phosphate, ect.) and cover with 2 - 3 in (5 - 8
cm) of alfalfa (lucern), and water the bed. Two weeks later, sow with
rye, or buckwheat (which will loosen the soil). Come spring, cover with
newsprint or cardboard, and alfalfa (lucern) as before, water it down,
and wait two weeks at least to plant. Maintain the mulch (alfalfa
[lucern]) by adding as needed.
--
Racial injustice, war, urban blight, and environmental rape have a common denominator in our exploitative economic system.*
~Channing E. Phillips

http://tinyurl.com/o63ruj
http://countercurrents.org/roberts020709.htm

clay soil
 

On 8/16/2009 2:37 AM, net1961 wrote:
we have a fairly large plot that use to be a vegatable plot.but due to
my partner having bad ankles and me having back problems we can no
longer keep on top of it.we can't afford to pay a gardener so i have to
tackle it myself.but the soil is rock solid ,i can't even get a spade
into it.the weeds and clumps of grass are impoosible to dig up.the only
time it's easier to dig is after heavy rainfall .but even then i find
the rotovator bounces off the clods of soil once it has dried out.is
there any way i can get over these problems.i can't do too much at a
time because of my back.

Broadcast a generous amount of gypsum over the area. You want to see
only white, no soil. 1/8 inch or even 1/4 inch is okay.

Sprinkle lightly to start disolving the gypsum. The next day, sprinkle
a bit heavier to start leaching the gypsum into the soil. Then, repeat
sprinkling every 3-4 days until all the gypsum has disolved and leached
into the soil. Gypsum reacts chemically with clay to make it porous and
workable.

Let the soil dry for about a week. Then till. As you are tilling, add
whatever amendments and nutrients you think are appropriate. This is
the best time to add bone meal or super-phosphate since phosphorus does
not readily disolve and must thus be down into the soil where roots will
find it.

After tilling, mulch with organic matter (leaves, DRIED grass clippings,
output from your office shredder, newspaper, cardboard, etc); don't use
plastic sheeting, gravel, volcanic rock, other "permanent" mulch. This
will protect the tilled soil from being compacted by rain and artificial
irrigation. It will also encourage earthworms, which will help maintain
the tilled soil structure you have created.

You might have to add more gypsum annually without tilling. Note that
most gypsum is a natural (not manufactured) product. It does not harm
soil organisms. Earthworms seem to enjoy the added calcium. While it
is truly inorganic, many organic gardeners use it.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

clay soil
 

g'day,

go for raised beds, see our site for pic's and ideas.

a bit of work to get them in but once done all too easy.

http://www.lensgarden.com.au/



On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 10:37:59 +0100, net1961
wrote:


we have a fairly large plot that use to be a vegatable plot.but due to
my partner having bad ankles and me having back problems we can no
longer keep on top of it.we can't afford to pay a gardener so i have to
tackle it myself.but the soil is rock solid ,i can't even get a spade
into it.the weeds and clumps of grass are impoosible to dig up.the only
time it's easier to dig is after heavy rainfall .but even then i find
the rotovator bounces off the clods of soil once it has dried out.is
there any way i can get over these problems.i can't do too much at a
time because of my back.
With peace and brightest of blessings,

len & bev

--
"Be Content With What You Have And
May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In
A World That You May Not Understand."

http://www.lensgarden.com.au/

clay soil
 

On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:52:46 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote:

On 8/16/2009 2:37 AM, net1961 wrote:
we have a fairly large plot that use to be a vegatable plot.but due to
my partner having bad ankles and me having back problems we can no
longer keep on top of it.we can't afford to pay a gardener so i have to
tackle it myself.but the soil is rock solid ,i can't even get a spade
into it.the weeds and clumps of grass are impoosible to dig up.the only
time it's easier to dig is after heavy rainfall .but even then i find
the rotovator bounces off the clods of soil once it has dried out.is
there any way i can get over these problems.i can't do too much at a
time because of my back.

Broadcast a generous amount of gypsum over the area. You want to see
only white, no soil. 1/8 inch or even 1/4 inch is okay.

Sprinkle lightly to start disolving the gypsum. The next day, sprinkle
a bit heavier to start leaching the gypsum into the soil. Then, repeat
sprinkling every 3-4 days until all the gypsum has disolved and leached
into the soil. Gypsum reacts chemically with clay to make it porous and
workable.

Let the soil dry for about a week. Then till. As you are tilling, add
whatever amendments and nutrients you think are appropriate. This is
the best time to add bone meal or super-phosphate since phosphorus does
not readily disolve and must thus be down into the soil where roots will
find it.

After tilling, mulch with organic matter (leaves, DRIED grass clippings,
output from your office shredder, newspaper, cardboard, etc); don't use
plastic sheeting, gravel, volcanic rock, other "permanent" mulch. This
will protect the tilled soil from being compacted by rain and artificial
irrigation. It will also encourage earthworms, which will help maintain
the tilled soil structure you have created.

You might have to add more gypsum annually without tilling. Note that
most gypsum is a natural (not manufactured) product. It does not harm
soil organisms. Earthworms seem to enjoy the added calcium. While it
is truly inorganic, many organic gardeners use it.


I like this answer. I have used gypsum and it really helps break up
clay soil. Eventually I worked compost in to the clay soil. In some
areas there were large clumps of clay that I physically replaced with
garden soil. I have the mini (I think FG110) Honda tiller--very nice
machine that beats the Mantis hands down. Don't till when wet.

clay soil
 

len said

g'day,

go for raised beds, see our site for pic's and ideas.

a bit of work to get them in but once done all too easy.

http://www.lensgarden.com.au/

g'day to you ;-)

FYI, quite a few of your links on this page are defunct.

http://ecosyn.us/ecocity/Links/Visua...ised_Beds.html

The remaining info is very helpful, though.

clay soil
 

g'day homer,

that page isn't mine??

do you have more details please, i do like to clean up dead links

On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 21:10:56 +0000 (UTC), "Homer.Simpson"
wrote:

snipped

You could try a raised bed on top of the clay. Vitax Clay Breaker might help but that is a multi year process. Best of luck