Stormin Mormon wrote:
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while. The cost of
fittings might add up. Typically sold in 10 foot lengths,
and the tubing is relatively rigid.

White PVC will be weakened by UV. Works great buried.


The new "Pex" stuff they sell for indoor water tubing may
work, but not sure how UV resistant it is.

Most Pex is easily damaged by UV.


They also sell some grey tubing for electrical conduit,
which might be more UV resistant, but not sure it's used for
outdoor water.

It's not rated for that.

Which brings us back to black poly pipe.


As to winter, may be able to to blow it out with compressed
air, and leave it dry.

OR install drain valves in the low spots.

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the
house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc.
Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to
about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it
all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of
the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The
main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods).
Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I
suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or
valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

I don't know what country you're in but I use polypipe to take water all
over the place and since a lot of it has now been in place for up to 20
years, I don't consider it to be temporary.

I use 2 inch, 1 inch and three quarter inch. Very little of this is laid
underground except for perhaps 20 ft of the 2 inch stuff that forms a main
artery. Some of the 1 inch and three quarters of an inch stuff has become
covered over the eyars as drebris drops on top of it. I have a main 2
inch line coming from our big tank (cistern in USian) and then I run one
inch and 3/4 inch withint the veg garden and in the orchard and down to
the chook pen and also from another 2 inch pipe down at the pond at the
bottom of the garden.

Lay it out on a hot summers day when the sun helps it to lie out better
and carry some hot water to do all the connections and it's an easy job.
One hint would be that if you manage to find little sprinkler heads that
you like, buy a truck load. I am reduced to 2 heads of my favourites.

Agree with the above. For what he wants to do, 1" poly pipe should work.
It's readily available at HD, Lowes, plumbing supply, online, etc. and
reasonably priced.

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:53:20 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

If you have a garden tractor and trailer of some kind. A 12
volt "spot sprayer" from Harbor Freight may make more sense
than running water tubing from the house.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...ayer-9583.html
Fill it at the house, drive it out in the trailer, and spray
with the garden tractor motor running to supply power.

That's what I do during dry spells, hitch my Agra-Fab cart to a
tractor and haul water in a poly tank or in a couple dozen 5 gallon
contractor buckets filled about 3/4s... only takes about a minute to
fill each bucket if I remove the nozzle from my 5/8" garden hose. I
rarely use the poly tank, the buckets are easier as I can more easily
guage how much water each plant gets (1 bucket is usually sufficient).
I water newly planted saplings and shrubs during dry spells, maybe 2-3
times a season as most years there's plenty of rain. I think it's
actually mentally retarded to build an irrigation system as the OP,
etal indicate unless it's a fairly arid clime or for a plant nursery
business or someone has more dollars than brain cells. Plastic
buckets are cheap, usually free... just got three more buckets today
taht's be ready to go once I empty the cat litter... I have more than
I can count and they nest so take very little room. If you drill a
3/16" hole on the side near the bottom of the bucket it will drip
water for a plant for several hours.

"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the
house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers,
etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are
up to about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's"
add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected
areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive,
and it all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during
winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a
drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to accomplish what I am trying to do ?



I agree that poly pipe is the least expensive course of action. 500 foot of
3/4" is only about $65 at this site:
http://www.submatic.com/catalog/poly-flex-hose.html

Pex would cost a lot more. Your local prices might vary a bit but should
still be well under a hundred.

I don't have a clue as to the UV effect on poly pipe. Buried it lasts for a
very long time. A water line I installed in 1969 is still in use today.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Yeah, and that also describes my prostate.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.

500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose. In this case, both size matters, and length matters.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Brooklyn1" Gravesend1 wrote in message
...


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

It's gentler, to supply some reason, rather than flat
contradiction.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


A warning to all, Brooklyn1 has a habit of making confident pronouncements
that are wrong.

The friction and hence head loss depends on both the length and diameter
(and the number of fittings and joins and the change in level).
Particularly in a thin pipe a long run (say 500ft) will have greater head
loss than a short one (say 50ft) using the same source. The difference is
less noticeable on large diameter pipe.

If you want to do the sums yourself see he

http://www.polypipe.com.au/images/PP...m%20design.pdf

David

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
It's gentler, to supply some reason, rather than flat
contradiction.




Do you really need a reason? Or is it perfectly obvious to you?

If you take a mile of hose, or one 50 foot length, what percentage of the single
hose water will get through the mile length, with the same high volume source
and hose diameter? 100%? You don't really think so, do you?

I know from my experience that two hoses in series deliver significantly less
water than one. Now multiply that effect for a 500 foot hose.

For tapping beer from kegs, they even use the line length to drop the pressure
to avoid foaming. 3/16" beer line produces 2 psi drop per foot at the flow of a
normal tap.

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

"Bob F" wrote:

If you take a mile of hose, or one 50 foot length, what percentage of the single
hose water will get through the mile length, with the same high volume source
and hose diameter? 100%? You don't really think so, do you?

I know from my experience that two hoses in series deliver significantly less
water than one. Now multiply that effect for a 500 foot hose.

For tapping beer from kegs, they even use the line length to drop the pressure
to avoid foaming. 3/16" beer line produces 2 psi drop per foot at the flow of a
normal tap.

You had better put down that sudz.. you don't know the difference
between pressure and volume.

On 6/29/11 11:21 PM, FarmI wrote:
"Dean wrote in message
...

I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line. The
stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a sprinkler at
each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections.
You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint
now and then.
One drawback might be its temptation to thieves.

Good Lord. That stuff would now have antique value wouldn't it Dean?


I've never heard of anyone collecting it. Old tractors and
farm equipment , old cars and barb wire, yes. A former co worker told
me people collect the insulators used on the old overhead phone lines.
The scrap value of used aluminum pipe might be pretty high. Many
farmers in my area went to pivot irrigation so scrapped their irrigation
pipe. No one much cared for hand move sprinkler line. It was just too
labor intensive. My Dad had some. He also had "volunteers" to help
move it.

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

Try the equation for pressure drop in lines he

http://hydraulik.empass.biz/

or the graph he


http://www.polypipe.com.au/images/PP...m%20design.pdf



You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

When somebody challenges what you say instead of reaching for the personal
insults you would look less foolish and juvenile if you did some research to
see if just maybe you have made a mistake. It's not like this was the first
time. You could also try an apology now and then if you have made an honest
mistake - I won't be holding my breath waiting.

David