Hi gardeners, i'm wondering if the pine bark may consider a slow absorption fertilizer or at least just a fertilizer.

The reason why i'm asking this is 'cause I use to take some pine bark form the pines in my neighborhood and add it to the potting earth (substratum) and I assume it provides some nutrients making the substratum fertile for my pott vegetables.

Thanks for replying and I'm sorry about my not-so-good english.

On 4/7/12 9:30 AM, SurfGirl wrote:
Hi gardeners, i'm wondering if the pine bark may consider a slow
absorption fertilizer or at least just a fertilizer.

The reason why i'm asking this is 'cause I use to take some pine bark
form the pines in my neighborhood and add it to the potting earth
(substratum) and I assume it provides some nutrients making the
substratum fertile for my pott vegetables.

Thanks for replying and I'm sorry about my not-so-good english.

There are few nutrients in pine or other bark. Bark that is broken into
small chips can improve the structure of soil, but it actually removes
nutrients while decomposing. Those nutrients are then returned only
after the bark has become compost.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On Saturday, April 7, 2012 9:30:00 AM UTC-7, SurfGirl wrote:
Hi gardeners, i'm wondering if the pine bark may consider a slow
absorption fertilizer or at least just a fertilizer.


Pine bark has very little nutrient value, but it is a good amendment for certain soil profiles and very good as a top mulch for most plants. I use bark quite often here in the PNW without problems.

I do have to ask how long have you used bark in your vegetable soils and if the bark presented any problems to date?

I think some here are confusing wood chips with pine bark. We now know there is difference in composition and decomposition activities than previously believed.

Dr. Chalker-Scott of WSU has some good articles on mulches and chips, some very different than the oft overgeneralized expert advice given here. I encourage you to read through several of them to get a good handle on her philosophy, she is a myth buster.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...les/index.html

Thank you very much for the information. So I understand that pine bark can be used to make home compost or add it to the regular or home-made compost, but not as a single fertilizer.

I'll keep that in mind next time when I improve my substratum.

Thank you David E. Ross and Gunner for answerin' my question. Now I understand that pine bark has a little efficiency as a fertilizer by its own, but can be used to improve soil and also for make compost.

David Ross, I ask this question 'cause I'm in the middle of a discussion about this topic. If pine bark can be consider: a) A fertilizer (good or bad) just like the rest of the living organisms and organic wastes. b) Its a fertilizer of slow absortion or c) Its useless in any way, just to add it to the compost. Till now my money was on the first.

Gunner, I've use pine bark all my life for two purposes: First I put in the bottom of the potts and cover it with sand tom improve the drainage. Second to make more acid the substratum for especific plants like fruit plants, peppers and my little garden (grass).

Regarding about the size or the consistency of the pine bark I use its just what I can take from the soil under the pine trees. In my neighborhood we have a lot of pines and I can take what we call here "pinasca" that its a multiple combination of big pieces of bark, small chips, some "litter" or leaves, and pieces of branches. I was told that its really good for make the soil more "acid" regarding to the chemical PH.

Many thanks for your information!

SurfGirl wrote:

So I understand that pine bark can be used
to make home compost or add it to the regular
or home-made compost, but not as a single fertilizer.

For gardening pine bark is primarily used as a weed blocking mulch,
because it decays so very slowly and does not support plant life. Pine
bark is not a fertilizing agent as it contains very little plant
nutrients. Pine bark decays much too slowly for adding to compost
piles, and in fact pine bark repels microbes, insects, and worms...
pine bark, because of its high resin content, acts in gardens like
moth balls in closets. You'd no more want to add pine bark to compost
as you'd want to add aromatic cedar... 20 years later the pine bark
would still be in the same condition as the day it was added, only it
will turn gray. Pine bark is sold at plant nurserys in variouly sized
nuggets and shredded, it's meant for use as a weed blocking mulch
only, it is NOT a soil amendment.

On Apr 7, 5:00*pm, "David E. Ross" wrote:
On 4/7/12 9:30 AM, SurfGirl wrote:

Hi gardeners, i'm wondering if the pine bark may consider a slow
absorption fertilizer or at least just a fertilizer.

The reason why i'm asking this is 'cause I use to take some pine bark
form the pines in my neighborhood and add it to the potting earth
(substratum) and I assume it provides some nutrients making the
substratum fertile for my pott vegetables.

Thanks for replying and I'm sorry about my not-so-good english.

There are few nutrients in pine or other bark. *Bark that is broken into
small chips can improve the structure of soil, but it actually removes
nutrients while decomposing. *Those nutrients are then returned only
after the bark has become compost.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: *California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

I regularly renew the ground cover bark compost in my decorative plant
beds -- and even around the base of the new fruit trees -- partly for
water conservation, but mostly for appearance.

I have heard, as you suggest, that the act of decomposing removes
nutrients, but have not looked deeply into the concept. Have there
been any reliable studies that quantify this effect? And as a
corollary, suggest how much more nutrients have to be added?

TIA

HB

Thank you very much for the explanation, Brooklyn1. Yes, you're right pine bark can be very usefull for young fruit trees mulching as I've just saw in internet. That explains why i have none earth worms in the garden but ants I do have them.

Very funny thing its that I've never buy this stuff, I use to pick it from the soil under the pines just 'cause I've been told that makes acid the soil. Never mind, thank you very much for your information.

Higgs Boson wrote:
....
I regularly renew the ground cover bark compost in my decorative plant
beds -- and even around the base of the new fruit trees -- partly for
water conservation, but mostly for appearance.

I have heard, as you suggest, that the act of decomposing removes
nutrients, but have not looked deeply into the concept. Have there
been any reliable studies that quantify this effect? And as a
corollary, suggest how much more nutrients have to be added?

there is a large difference between bark on the
surface used as a mulch and bark that is dug in and
is being used as a soil amendment. the first breaks
down slowly enough and should not have much impact
upon soil fertility in the short term. longer term
it will gradually add nutrients along with the rain.
the latter will at first deplete nitrogen as it is
decomposing, but then will release the nitrogen back
to the soil. to help that along the first season i
plant legumes.

so when using as a mulch adding nitrogen would
defeat the purpose of using it as a decorative cover
and moisture barrier.


songbird

On Apr 10, 12:31*pm, songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

...

I regularly renew the ground cover bark compost in my decorative plant
beds -- and even around the base of the new fruit trees -- partly for
water conservation, but mostly for appearance.

I have heard, *as you suggest, that the act of decomposing removes
nutrients, but have not looked deeply into the concept. *Have there
been any reliable studies that quantify this effect? *And as a
corollary, suggest how much more nutrients have to be added?

* there is a large difference between bark on the
surface used as a mulch and bark that is dug in and
is being used as a soil amendment. *the first breaks
down slowly enough and should not have much impact
upon soil fertility in the short term. *longer term
it will gradually add nutrients along with the rain.
the latter will at first deplete nitrogen as it is
decomposing, but then will release the nitrogen back
to the soil. *to help that along the first season i
plant legumes.

* so when using as a mulch adding nitrogen would
defeat the purpose of using it as a decorative cover
and moisture barrier.

* songbird

sigh of relief Now I can sleep o'nights. Tx, 'bird!

HB

TIA, that's exactly why a "bomb" exploded in other forum (Spanish one) about gardening. Innocent of me I suggest that pine bark can be used as any other organic remain to improve the soil. Now, thanks to the kind explanations from all of you I know thats not that simple. Everybody here is so gentile, thank you all!

Anyway, an awfull and very controversial discussion starts in that forum from this single topic in the "Vegetables in potts" that in castillian we call "Macetohuerto". Yes, experience and the knowledgement of people its the most important source of garden tips, but in that case the "gurús" wanted to put me against a wall and shoot at me just because I ask the same as you: "Where's the cientific basis for all this chemical dispute?"

I would liked to keep you informed aboud the discussion progress, but the censorship close the discussion and erased multiple angry posts abuot it. Now its a taboo topic in there.

See u guys!

You're so right. In this particular topic there's a lot of chemical issues that makes it very annoying for certain people to explain when its applied to potts and not to the soil.

Talking about nitrogen spanish "gurús" (they're like a bellicose tribe) postulate only 2 choices: 1. To use chemical "urea", and 2. To use "gallinaza" (chicken manure). When I'd say "why not sea bird manure can be taken for free from the beach?" I become a "bandida" to all of them.
Certainly nitrogen can be taken from almost any source and even let the "bad weeds" affirm the nitrogen in the soil just by themselves as John Seymour wrote in his book.

Anyway, I'm sorry if I talk to much, but I feel frustrated when people that its starting in gardening are treated so rudely and forced to see all white or black.

See u soon!

Higgs Boson wrote:
....
sigh of relief Now I can sleep o'nights. Tx, 'bird!

yw.


songbird