I want to make something to mount in a south facing window to root cuttings (coleus, ivy etc).

I want to use some small bottles and was wondering if a colored bottle (amber etc) would be better than clear? Perhaps less light would be better for roots?

Thanks.

mkr5000 said:
I want to make something to mount in a south facing window to root
cuttings (coleus, ivy etc).

I want to use some small bottles and was wondering if a colored bottle
(amber etc) would be better
than clear? Perhaps less light would be better for roots?

I doubt it makes much difference, so go with what is attractive and
convenient for you. You could even make an experiment of it by
comparing your success rate with clear vs. colored bottles.

Some pointers:
- keep the water clean

- some plants will do better if allowed to 'callous' a bit before putting
them in water (put them in an inflated plastic bag overnight), others need
to be plunged immediately.

- when transitioning the cuttings to pots you might want to put them
(temporarily) in a shadier spot, and it is recommended you transition to
a pot at least temporarily before setting water-rooted cuttings into the
ground.

Most of the rooting I've done recently was with cutting set into sterile
potting media directly. These are bagged in clear plastic and set in an area
out of direct sunlight until the cuttings start to grow.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI

"Yes, swooping is bad."

email valid but not regularly monitored

On 7/31/2014 7:16 AM, mkr5000 wrote:
I want to make something to mount in a south facing window to root
cuttings (coleus, ivy etc).

I want to use some small bottles and was wondering if a colored
bottle (amber etc) would be better than clear? Perhaps less light
would be better for roots?

Thanks.

Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The
root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain
plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;
philodendron is an example. Those that should be in soil or potting mix
should be rooted in a nutrient-free mix; I use a home-made mix of half
coarse sand and half peat moss.

Even plants that prefer direct sunlight should not be placed indoors in
a window where sunshine will fall on them. There is insufficient air
circulation to dissipate the heat. I have a greenhouse window in my
breakfast room; the window faces north. Some of my plants in the window
would do quite well outdoors (except in the winter) in full sun. Since
my house is not square on the compass, the greenhouse window gets about
3 hours of morning sun in the summer. I hang shade cloth over it from
late April until the beginning of October.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:43:36 AM UTC-7, Pat Kiewicz wrote:
mkr5000 said:

I want to make something to mount in a south facing window to root

cuttings (coleus, ivy etc).



I want to use some small bottles and was wondering if a colored bottle

(amber etc) would be better

than clear? Perhaps less light would be better for roots?



I doubt it makes much difference, so go with what is attractive and

convenient for you. You could even make an experiment of it by

comparing your success rate with clear vs. colored bottles.



Some pointers:

- keep the water clean



- some plants will do better if allowed to 'callous' a bit before putting

them in water (put them in an inflated plastic bag overnight), others need

to be plunged immediately.

What's with the plastic bag, Pat? I callous potential transplants by just leaving them on a saucer or paper towel out of direct sun. I should think that putting them in a plastic bag would get just the OPPOSITE of desired effect -- callousing. Moisture from transplant would condense inside the plastic bag.

- when transitioning the cuttings to pots you might want to put them

(temporarily) in a shadier spot, and it is recommended you transition to

a pot at least temporarily before setting water-rooted cuttings into the

ground.



Most of the rooting I've done recently was with cutting set into sterile

potting media directly. These are bagged in clear plastic and set in an area

out of direct sunlight until the cuttings start to grow.

HB

On 1/08/2014 12:43 AM, Pat Kiewicz wrote:
mkr5000 said:
I want to make something to mount in a south facing window to root
cuttings (coleus, ivy etc).

I want to use some small bottles and was wondering if a colored bottle
(amber etc) would be better
than clear? Perhaps less light would be better for roots?

I doubt it makes much difference, so go with what is attractive and
convenient for you. You could even make an experiment of it by
comparing your success rate with clear vs. colored bottles.

Some pointers:
- keep the water clean

- some plants will do better if allowed to 'callous' a bit before putting
them in water (put them in an inflated plastic bag overnight), others need
to be plunged immediately.

For any that need to callous, I usually just drop them somewhere and
leave then for a while. At the moment I've got about 60 geranium
cuttings sitting in the sun room exposed to the air and not covered by
anything.

I must try using plastic and see if it makes a difference.

On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:

Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The
root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain
plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;

Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure
to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was
possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in
waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away.
Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition
from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever
tried anything like this?

--

Jeff

Higgs Boson said:
On Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:43:36 AM UTC-7, Pat Kiewicz wrote:
them in water (put them in an inflated plastic bag overnight),

What's with the plastic bag, Pat? I callous potential transplants by just
leaving them on a saucer
or paper towel out of direct sun. I should think that putting them in a
plastic bag would get just
the OPPOSITE of desired effect -- callousing. Moisture from transplant
would condense inside the plastic bag.


With non-succulent plants, I suggest an *inflated* plastic bag as you are
less likely to get serious wilting but still get some drying at the stump end.
Plenty of air = less condensation. In fact, you can even leave the cut end
sticking out of the bag!

I'd agree that you'd never want the plastic draped over the foliage.
--
Pat in Plymouth MI

"Yes, swooping is bad."

email valid but not regularly monitored

On 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:

Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The
root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain
plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;

Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure
to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was
possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in
waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away.
Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition
from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever
tried anything like this?


The cutting is likely to rot if the medium is waterlogged. A 50%-50%
mix of coarse sand and peat moss drains very well and will remain quite
moist without becoming soggy. The moisture will remain available to the
cutting until the mix is almost bone dry. In the meantime, air can
enter the mix; and roots -- new or old -- do need air in the soil.

I never add any nutrients to the rooting mix because they can promote
mold and other forms of rot.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On Friday, August 1, 2014 5:26:50 PM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:
On 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:

On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:



Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The

root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain

plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;



Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure

to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was

possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in

waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away.

Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition

from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever

tried anything like this?





The cutting is likely to rot if the medium is waterlogged. A 50%-50%

mix of coarse sand and peat moss drains very well and will remain quite

moist without becoming soggy. The moisture will remain available to the

cutting until the mix is almost bone dry. In the meantime, air can

enter the mix; and roots -- new or old -- do need air in the soil.



I never add any nutrients to the rooting mix because they can promote

mold and other forms of rot.

Very interesting. Based on actual experience? Replicated?

HB

On 8/2/2014 8:52 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Friday, August 1, 2014 5:26:50 PM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:
On 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:

On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:



Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The

root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain

plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;



Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure

to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was

possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in

waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away.

Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition

from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever

tried anything like this?





The cutting is likely to rot if the medium is waterlogged. A 50%-50%

mix of coarse sand and peat moss drains very well and will remain quite

moist without becoming soggy. The moisture will remain available to the

cutting until the mix is almost bone dry. In the meantime, air can

enter the mix; and roots -- new or old -- do need air in the soil.



I never add any nutrients to the rooting mix because they can promote

mold and other forms of rot.

Very interesting. Based on actual experience? Replicated?

HB


No, not based on experience. Based on gardening books, including
several editions of Sunset's "Western Garden Book".

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

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On Saturday, August 2, 2014 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
On 8/2/2014 8:52 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Friday, August 1, 2014 5:26:50 PM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:

On 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:



On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:







Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The



root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain



plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;







Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure



to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was



possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in



waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away.



Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition



from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever



tried anything like this?











The cutting is likely to rot if the medium is waterlogged. A 50%-50%



mix of coarse sand and peat moss drains very well and will remain quite



moist without becoming soggy. The moisture will remain available to the



cutting until the mix is almost bone dry. In the meantime, air can



enter the mix; and roots -- new or old -- do need air in the soil.







I never add any nutrients to the rooting mix because they can promote



mold and other forms of rot.



Very interesting. Based on actual experience? Replicated?



HB





No, not based on experience. Based on gardening books, including

several editions of Sunset's "Western Garden Book".



--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

I'll have to read up on "callous" -- never heard of that. I really just want to get some coleus going to keep inside over the winter for now. I have mixed results when I try to root coleus in water. Maybe 1/3rd do well and the rest just wilt (some almost immediately). I always take the fresh top parts, pull off the bottom leaves. Some of the varieties stay pretty robust and root well, yet some almost immediately go limp (especially the deep red ones).

Another question -- is the "quick start" rooting liquid of any value? I know you use the powder when trying to root in pots.

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 10:09:04 AM UTC-4, mkr5000 wrote:
On Saturday, August 2, 2014 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:

On 8/2/2014 8:52 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:



On Friday, August 1, 2014 5:26:50 PM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:



On 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:







On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:















Plants rooted in water often fail to do well when moved to pots. The







root hairs are severely damaged when suddenly packed into soil. Certain







plants will survive and even thrive if left growing in water;















Your reply make me think about this. You are quite right about failure







to move from a liquid to a solid growth medium. I wondered if it was







possible to have the best of both worlds - effectively root the plant in







waterlogged compost, and once rooted, allow the water to drain away..







Little if any root disturbance takes place, and the gentle transition







from wet to normal compost might allow the plant to adapt. Have you ever







tried anything like this?























The cutting is likely to rot if the medium is waterlogged. A 50%-50%







mix of coarse sand and peat moss drains very well and will remain quite







moist without becoming soggy. The moisture will remain available to the







cutting until the mix is almost bone dry. In the meantime, air can







enter the mix; and roots -- new or old -- do need air in the soil.















I never add any nutrients to the rooting mix because they can promote







mold and other forms of rot.







Very interesting. Based on actual experience? Replicated?







HB











No, not based on experience. Based on gardening books, including



several editions of Sunset's "Western Garden Book".







--



David E. Ross



Climate: California Mediterranean, see



http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html



Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary



I'll have to read up on "callous" -- never heard of that. I really just want to get some coleus going to keep inside over the winter for now. I have mixed results when I try to root coleus in water. Maybe 1/3rd do well and the rest just wilt (some almost immediately). I always take the fresh top parts, pull off the bottom leaves. Some of the varieties stay pretty robust and root well, yet some almost immediately go limp (especially the deep red ones).



Another question -- is the "quick start" rooting liquid of any value? I know you use the powder when trying to root in pots.

That "quick start" I mentioned -- I wonder if adding a bit of that to the water would help? (And I know keeping the water changed is important.

On 8/5/2014 7:12 AM, mkr5000 wrote [in part]:

Another question -- is the "quick start" rooting liquid of any value? I know you use the powder when trying to root in pots.

That "quick start" I mentioned -- I wonder if adding a bit of that to the water would help? (And I know keeping the water changed is important.


Keeping the water changed is important for cut flowers. For rooting
plants, I never change the water.

I have a Philodendron growing in water in a decorative glass bottle. I
rooted it in a drinking glass well over a year ago. Occasionally, I
added water to the glass but never changed it. When it had roots, I
discarded the parent plant and placed the rooted cutting into the bottle
with the water from the glass. Since then, I have never changed the
water. I just keep topping up the existing water.

Once or twice a year, I add a few drops of the liquid fertilizer that I
use on my orchids but only after I dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 the
strength I use for the orchids.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 7:09:04 AM UTC-7, mkr5000 wrote:
On Saturday, August 2, 2014 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:

On 8/2/2014 8:52 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Friday, August 1, 2014 5:26:50 PM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:

n 8/1/2014 1:13 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:


On 31/07/2014 16:00, David E. Ross wrote:

[ ...snippage]

I'll have to read up on "callous" -- never heard of that.

It's also referred to as "hardening off".

HB