weed control
 

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

weed control
 

herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

weighted and angled scraper, pull behind
lawn tractor once in a while to keep the
potholes filled and any weeds uprooted to
dry in the sun.


songbird

weed control
 

On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some
weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will
not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the
existing weeds.

Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the
width and length of the driveway.

Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create
a depth of 3 inches.

New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape
cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as
they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain
and other water will go through the landscape cloth.

This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the
gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the
landscape cloth.

--
David E. Ross
http://www.rossde.com/.

Is it true that Donald Trump refuses to reveal his
income tax returns because he uses so many questionable
loopholes that he pays no taxes? See
http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/06/15/new-evidence-donald-trump-didn-t-pay-taxes.html.
Even if those
loopholes are legal, Trump might be too embarrassed to
admit he pays no taxes.

weed control
 

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:25:41 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote:

On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some
weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will
not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the
existing weeds.

Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the
width and length of the driveway.

Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create
a depth of 3 inches.

New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape
cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as
they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain
and other water will go through the landscape cloth.

This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the
gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the
landscape cloth.

You obviously haven't a clue about how much LABOR and COST that would
entail for a 500' driveway. I have such a 500' crushed stone
driveway, once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day... takes me about 4 hours, and costs a
gallon of Round Up concentrate. I use a 2 gallon pump sprayer (not
too heavy to carry), I mix Round Up to half strength, 3 oz per gal.
Choose a wind free day, and don't be tempted to spray heavily, a light
application works well... can always go back in two weeks to spot
spray.
Someone would have to be psychotic thinking they can move that much
gravel and then put it back, talking moving over five ten ton dump
truck loads, TWICE! That much commercial grade landscape cloth (5,000
sq ft) would cost well over $3,000, and take two people minimally ten
hours to lay down.
Landscape cloth is used to prevent soil erosion on slopes, not to
prevent plant growth, in fact it's made porous to encourage plant
growth, it's supposed to last long enough for plantings to mature
enough so their roots can prevent erosion. Landscape cloth for a
fairly level gravel roadway is a waste. Only a nut case would destroy
a perfectly good gravel roadway just to eradicate weeds. It cost me
$7,000 to to have a 500' crushed stone driveway installed... very
expensive heavy roadway equipment was used, including a huge
compacting vibrating roller. Lots of people here have gravel and
crushed stone driveways, none would think to destroy their roadways
over weeds... weeds will be back next spring no matter what one does.
I bless Round Up... I use it around all my out buildings that would
otherwise be difficult to mow. Gravel driveways are supposed to have
some weeds, too many weeds simply means it's not driven often enough.
If worried about weeds install a blacktop driveway instead. I paid a
lot of money for this driveway, no way would I destroy it over a few
weeds that a gallon of Round Up can take care of, not that I could
remove all those stones and put them back myself anyway:
http://i63.tinypic.com/2saezy1.jpg
Were I to call any company to remove those stones and put them back
over weeds the men in the white coats would arrive.

weed control
 

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...

A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.
On those days you can pretty much halve the usual dose of roundup.

weed control
 

On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...

A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.

MORON!

weed control
 

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:38:22 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...

A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.

MORON!

Yes. A 'moron' with 5 years commercial experience using roundup
(unfortunately). Have another drink Sheldon.

weed control
 

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...


A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.
The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.



http://www.aganytime.com/Documents/A...r bicides.pdf

weed control
 

On 7/9/2016 5:32 AM, herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has
some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds
that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to
walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled
with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how
many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need.

weed control
 

Moe DeLoughan wrote:
herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has
some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds
that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to
walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled
with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how
many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need.

I've tried both those methods, they work immediately but very
temperary, neither will kill the roots so the weeds will grow back
within a few days, often with a vengence as destroying the foliage
will cause the plant to send out side shoots and runners in its quest
to live and multiply. The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength. When used according to the product's
directions it will not harm the environment. I can't imagine an easy
method for applying boiling water over so great a distance... you'd
need a portable propane stove on a cart. I tried boiling water on
weeds growing through cracks in a concrete walkway but a few days
later the weeds were back only 2-3 times bushier... with many weeds
all it takes is a small bit of root remaining and they will grow right
back. Even with Round-Up the next spring new seeds carried by wind
and critters will germinate so be prepared to apply it every year. A
hint when using Round-Up in a portable sprayer add the water first or
it will foam up from the slighest water stream and will take an hour
for the foam to subside.

weed control
 

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.

I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn

Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom).

weed control
 

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:27:12 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.

I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn

Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom).

I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a
beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep
and aerate the soil. Song birds love thistle seed. Next time
thistles in my wildflower meadow flower I will remember to take
pictures. Some thistles grow right along the base of my barn, I just
leave them, I just try not to get too close or those velcro stickers
get all over my clothes.

weed control
 

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a
beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep
and aerate the soil.

Are you sure what you have is Canada thistle? Like this?
https://www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/WS/...daThistle.html

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

weed control
 

On 12/07/16 00:27, Don Wiss wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.

I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn

And what do you do with the dead weeds?

--

Jeff

weed control
 

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

And what do you do with the dead weeds?

Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting.
Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think
by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

weed control
 

Don Wiss wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote:

I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a
beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep
and aerate the soil.

Are you sure what you have is Canada thistle? Like this?
https://www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/WS/...daThistle.html

I'm not sure which type of thistle I find growing here but it looks
like this:
http://www.ediblewildfood.com/bull-thistle.aspx
http://www.kingcounty.gov/environmen...l-thistle.aspx

weed control
 

On 12/07/16 11:28, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

And what do you do with the dead weeds?

Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting.
Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think
by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone.

Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for
example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1

Not long ago in the UK a number of composts had to be removed from the
market. When used to grow produce such as tomatoes, beans, and some
ornamentals the effects were very damaging - see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=477

--

Jeff

weed control
 

Brooklyn1 used his keyboard to write :
Even with Round-Up the next spring new seeds carried by wind
and critters will germinate so be prepared to apply it every year.

Hey idiot, Glyphosate has no pre emergent effect on the soil.

In other words it *will not* prevent one weed seed from germinating.

Be prepard to apply it everytime a new weed gereminates.

HTH, clueless.

weed control
 

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for
example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1

And Roundup is different? I don't think my ounce of clopyralid mixed into
the township's compost heap will make much difference. It is pretty crappy
compost with road gravel. I don't know who takes it for what use. We don't.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

weed control
 

On 12/07/16 21:37, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for
example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1

And Roundup is different? I don't think my ounce of clopyralid mixed into
the township's compost heap will make much difference. It is pretty crappy
compost with road gravel. I don't know who takes it for what use. We don't.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid.
Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is
absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the
compost.

If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it
won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too,
and that might make a difference.

--

Jeff

weed control
 

On 2016-07-09 10:32:24 +0000, herb white said:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some
weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will
not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.

Sodium chlorate would be my choice. If applied carefully it will keep
weeds at bay for months and will not run off in a concentration that
would threaten the health of your river and aquifer. It has been
banned in the EU, unfortunately. Elsewhere it is getting rather
pricey, but still economical if you poke around a bit.

weed control
 

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid.
Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is
absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the
compost.

Stinger is taken in by the leaves. It works its way down to the roots. I
only sprayed leaves, as directed.

If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it
won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too,
and that might make a difference.

At $80 a quart* [enough for spraying four acres of crops], and available
only by mail, there aren't going to be any other users in the town.

* https://www.keystonepestsolutions.co...de-1-quart-324

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

weed control
 

On 13/07/16 02:04, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid.
Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is
absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the
compost.

Stinger is taken in by the leaves. It works its way down to the roots. I
only sprayed leaves, as directed.

I should have made it clear that glyphosate is absorbed only through
leaves and not through roots, but from the Dow information on clopyralid:

" Clopyralid is absorbed by the foliage and roots of plants..."

If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it
won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too,
and that might make a difference.

At $80 a quart* [enough for spraying four acres of crops], and available
only by mail, there aren't going to be any other users in the town.

I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still,
that quart should last you a good few years!

--

Jeff

weed control
 

On 7/12/2016 5:53 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 12/07/16 11:28, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

And what do you do with the dead weeds?

Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting.
Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think
by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone.

Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for
example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1

Not long ago in the UK a number of composts had to be removed from the
market. When used to grow produce such as tomatoes, beans, and some
ornamentals the effects were very damaging - see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=477


Seattle and others had a real problem with it in their compost.

"The organic growers in Eastern Washington who lost their certification
due to involuntary clopyralid contamination disagree. So do officials at
WSU at Pullman who have paid out more than $200,000 in damages to
growers whose tomato crops were killed by clopyralid-contaminated WSU
compost. So, thankfully, does Eastern Washington University, where
researchers are calling on Dow to cease clopyralid production."

http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/h...st-1076881.php

weed control
 

On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 08:04:03 -0700, Bob F wrote:

"The organic growers in Eastern Washington who lost their certification
due to involuntary clopyralid contamination disagree. So do officials at
WSU at Pullman who have paid out more than $200,000 in damages to
growers whose tomato crops were killed by clopyralid-contaminated WSU
compost. So, thankfully, does Eastern Washington University, where
researchers are calling on Dow to cease clopyralid production."

What is clear from this is when the house gets sold I have to take what
remains of my quart to a toxic waste disposal site. And I should also do
this with my mom's RoundUp.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

weed control
 

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still,
that quart should last you a good few years!

I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The
instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1).

Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is
about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the
infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each
time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small
plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind.
But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose
bush.

At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small
plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will
continue into the next season.

I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the
yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it
was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before
it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a
few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple
years.

I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard
likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through
just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual,
if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the
low first year would survive.

Don http://foraging.com/ e-mail at page bottom.

weed control
 

Don Wiss wrote:
Jeff Layman wrote:

I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still,
that quart should last you a good few years!

I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The
instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1).

Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is
about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the
infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each
time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small
plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind.
But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose
bush.

At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small
plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will
continue into the next season.

I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the
yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it
was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before
it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a
few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple
years.

I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard
likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through
just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual,
if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the
low first year would survive.

no, that's not how seeds work, some will remain
viable for quite some time. sure you may have gotten
the most recent crops of seeds, but there are likely
plenty more in the soil that can eventually sprout
given the right conditions.

thistle seeds get moved around by birds/animals.
i dig them up when they try to get going in the
more formal gardens here, but they are all over
in other places.

aside from thistles and garlic mustard we also
have things like sow thistle and some invasive
grasses i keep under control using manual methods.
i don't like using any herbicides here if i can
avoid it.

a few spots of morning glory mayhem which i
would never plant again anywhere. poison ivy,
wild grape vines, sumac...

luckily we never got into blackberries.

those are just the wild plants to try to work
around then there are the honeysuckles we planted
and the lavender which we both are reactive if
we get sap on the skin, the garlic i scattered
around and have been trying to weed out ever
since, introduced plants from wildflower seed
mixes which aren't very nice and spread all over
the place... and then there's pennyroyal and
others of the mint family, yarrows, ... :)

the nice thing is that we are ok with thymes
and they are doing well at taking over some
spaces that used to be weed magnets. once they
fill in that calms down an area nicely. not
much bothers them.

i really can't wait until i can take what little
grassy areas are left and turn them into gardens
of one kind or another. there's plenty of
grasses around us, i don't really need them here
though. i'd much rather have strawberries or
something flowering or edible (or both).


songbird

weed control
 

On Fri, 09 Sep 2016 14:38:03 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still,
that quart should last you a good few years!

I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The
instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1).

Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is
about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the
infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each
time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small
plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind.
But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose
bush.

At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small
plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will
continue into the next season.

I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the
yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it
was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before
it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a
few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple
years.

I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard
likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through
just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual,
if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the
low first year would survive.

This is probably not very helpful to you, but when I bought this
property it had a couple of acres of lawn/pasture surrounding the
house which was infested with a variety of weeds, mostly dandelions,
plantain and thistles.

Spraying and regular mowing never really worked as it just seemed to
create new opportunities for weeds to establish themselves again.

A few years ago I wised up and applied plenty of fertiliser and lime,
kept it well irrigated and ran sheep on it. Even after the first year
the difference was quite noticeable, by the second year the weeds were
essentially completely gone. The better types of grass have dominated
the pasture now too and grows super lush. I rarely need to use
herbicides anywhere on the property now.

You can salt them, warm water and salt in a bucket (stirred) then go over your your gravel driveway giving the weeds a decent drink

Roundup or zero is good also, you can get ones that are very pinpointed