weed control
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.
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weed control
herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. weighted and angled scraper, pull behind lawn tractor once in a while to keep the potholes filled and any weeds uprooted to dry in the sun. songbird |
weed control
On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the existing weeds. Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the width and length of the driveway. Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create a depth of 3 inches. New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain and other water will go through the landscape cloth. This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the landscape cloth. -- David E. Ross http://www.rossde.com/. Is it true that Donald Trump refuses to reveal his income tax returns because he uses so many questionable loopholes that he pays no taxes? See http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/06/15/new-evidence-donald-trump-didn-t-pay-taxes.html. Even if those loopholes are legal, Trump might be too embarrassed to admit he pays no taxes. |
weed control
On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:25:41 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote: On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote: I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the existing weeds. Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the width and length of the driveway. Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create a depth of 3 inches. New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain and other water will go through the landscape cloth. This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the landscape cloth. You obviously haven't a clue about how much LABOR and COST that would entail for a 500' driveway. I have such a 500' crushed stone driveway, once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up... I choose a hot sunny dry day... takes me about 4 hours, and costs a gallon of Round Up concentrate. I use a 2 gallon pump sprayer (not too heavy to carry), I mix Round Up to half strength, 3 oz per gal. Choose a wind free day, and don't be tempted to spray heavily, a light application works well... can always go back in two weeks to spot spray. Someone would have to be psychotic thinking they can move that much gravel and then put it back, talking moving over five ten ton dump truck loads, TWICE! That much commercial grade landscape cloth (5,000 sq ft) would cost well over $3,000, and take two people minimally ten hours to lay down. Landscape cloth is used to prevent soil erosion on slopes, not to prevent plant growth, in fact it's made porous to encourage plant growth, it's supposed to last long enough for plantings to mature enough so their roots can prevent erosion. Landscape cloth for a fairly level gravel roadway is a waste. Only a nut case would destroy a perfectly good gravel roadway just to eradicate weeds. It cost me $7,000 to to have a 500' crushed stone driveway installed... very expensive heavy roadway equipment was used, including a huge compacting vibrating roller. Lots of people here have gravel and crushed stone driveways, none would think to destroy their roadways over weeds... weeds will be back next spring no matter what one does. I bless Round Up... I use it around all my out buildings that would otherwise be difficult to mow. Gravel driveways are supposed to have some weeds, too many weeds simply means it's not driven often enough. If worried about weeds install a blacktop driveway instead. I paid a lot of money for this driveway, no way would I destroy it over a few weeds that a gallon of Round Up can take care of, not that I could remove all those stones and put them back myself anyway: http://i63.tinypic.com/2saezy1.jpg Were I to call any company to remove those stones and put them back over weeds the men in the white coats would arrive. |
weed control
On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote: once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up... I choose a hot sunny dry day... A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose. The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle. On those days you can pretty much halve the usual dose of roundup. |
weed control
On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote:
On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1 wrote: once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up... I choose a hot sunny dry day... A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose. The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle. MORON! |
weed control
On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:38:22 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote: On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote: On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1 wrote: once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up... I choose a hot sunny dry day... A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose. The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle. MORON! Yes. A 'moron' with 5 years commercial experience using roundup (unfortunately). Have another drink Sheldon. |
weed control
once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up... I choose a hot sunny dry day... A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose. The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle. http://www.aganytime.com/Documents/A...r bicides.pdf |
weed control
On 7/9/2016 5:32 AM, herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need. |
weed control
Moe DeLoughan wrote:
herb white wrote: I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need. I've tried both those methods, they work immediately but very temperary, neither will kill the roots so the weeds will grow back within a few days, often with a vengence as destroying the foliage will cause the plant to send out side shoots and runners in its quest to live and multiply. The only method I found that works with success on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than the 2-3 days with full strength. When used according to the product's directions it will not harm the environment. I can't imagine an easy method for applying boiling water over so great a distance... you'd need a portable propane stove on a cart. I tried boiling water on weeds growing through cracks in a concrete walkway but a few days later the weeds were back only 2-3 times bushier... with many weeds all it takes is a small bit of root remaining and they will grow right back. Even with Round-Up the next spring new seeds carried by wind and critters will germinate so be prepared to apply it every year. A hint when using Round-Up in a portable sprayer add the water first or it will foam up from the slighest water stream and will take an hour for the foam to subside. |
weed control
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:
The only method I found that works with success on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than the 2-3 days with full strength. I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger: http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one more round to do. There are almost none left. Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom). |
weed control
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:27:12 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote: On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote: The only method I found that works with success on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than the 2-3 days with full strength. I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger: http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one more round to do. There are almost none left. Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom). I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep and aerate the soil. Song birds love thistle seed. Next time thistles in my wildflower meadow flower I will remember to take pictures. Some thistles grow right along the base of my barn, I just leave them, I just try not to get too close or those velcro stickers get all over my clothes. |
weed control
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:
I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep and aerate the soil. Are you sure what you have is Canada thistle? Like this? https://www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/WS/...daThistle.html Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
weed control
On 12/07/16 00:27, Don Wiss wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote: The only method I found that works with success on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than the 2-3 days with full strength. I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger: http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one more round to do. There are almost none left. Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn And what do you do with the dead weeds? -- Jeff |
weed control
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:
And what do you do with the dead weeds? Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting. Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
weed control
Don Wiss wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote: I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep and aerate the soil. Are you sure what you have is Canada thistle? Like this? https://www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/WS/...daThistle.html I'm not sure which type of thistle I find growing here but it looks like this: http://www.ediblewildfood.com/bull-thistle.aspx http://www.kingcounty.gov/environmen...l-thistle.aspx |
weed control
On 12/07/16 11:28, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote: And what do you do with the dead weeds? Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting. Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone. Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1 Not long ago in the UK a number of composts had to be removed from the market. When used to grow produce such as tomatoes, beans, and some ornamentals the effects were very damaging - see https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=477 -- Jeff |
weed control
Brooklyn1 used his keyboard to write :
Even with Round-Up the next spring new seeds carried by wind and critters will germinate so be prepared to apply it every year. Hey idiot, Glyphosate has no pre emergent effect on the soil. In other words it *will not* prevent one weed seed from germinating. Be prepard to apply it everytime a new weed gereminates. HTH, clueless. |
weed control
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:
Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1 And Roundup is different? I don't think my ounce of clopyralid mixed into the township's compost heap will make much difference. It is pretty crappy compost with road gravel. I don't know who takes it for what use. We don't. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
weed control
On 12/07/16 21:37, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote: Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1 And Roundup is different? I don't think my ounce of clopyralid mixed into the township's compost heap will make much difference. It is pretty crappy compost with road gravel. I don't know who takes it for what use. We don't. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid. Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the compost. If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too, and that might make a difference. -- Jeff |
weed control
On 2016-07-09 10:32:24 +0000, herb white said:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info. Sodium chlorate would be my choice. If applied carefully it will keep weeds at bay for months and will not run off in a concentration that would threaten the health of your river and aquifer. It has been banned in the EU, unfortunately. Elsewhere it is getting rather pricey, but still economical if you poke around a bit. |
weed control
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:
Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid. Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the compost. Stinger is taken in by the leaves. It works its way down to the roots. I only sprayed leaves, as directed. If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too, and that might make a difference. At $80 a quart* [enough for spraying four acres of crops], and available only by mail, there aren't going to be any other users in the town. * https://www.keystonepestsolutions.co...de-1-quart-324 Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
weed control
On 13/07/16 02:04, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote: Roundup contains glyphosate. It is much less persistent than clopyralid. Also, clopyralid is absorbed through he plant's roots. Glyphosate is absorbed through leaves, so it doesn't matter if there is any in the compost. Stinger is taken in by the leaves. It works its way down to the roots. I only sprayed leaves, as directed. I should have made it clear that glyphosate is absorbed only through leaves and not through roots, but from the Dow information on clopyralid: " Clopyralid is absorbed by the foliage and roots of plants..." If yours is the only clopyralid mixed in the township's compost then it won't matter. But if you are using it, maybe quite a few others are too, and that might make a difference. At $80 a quart* [enough for spraying four acres of crops], and available only by mail, there aren't going to be any other users in the town. I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still, that quart should last you a good few years! -- Jeff |
weed control
On 7/12/2016 5:53 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 12/07/16 11:28, Don Wiss wrote: On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote: And what do you do with the dead weeds? Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting. Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone. Unfortunately not. Just google "clopyralid" and "persistence" - for example see http://compostingcouncil.org/persist...rbicide-faq/#1 Not long ago in the UK a number of composts had to be removed from the market. When used to grow produce such as tomatoes, beans, and some ornamentals the effects were very damaging - see https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=477 Seattle and others had a real problem with it in their compost. "The organic growers in Eastern Washington who lost their certification due to involuntary clopyralid contamination disagree. So do officials at WSU at Pullman who have paid out more than $200,000 in damages to growers whose tomato crops were killed by clopyralid-contaminated WSU compost. So, thankfully, does Eastern Washington University, where researchers are calling on Dow to cease clopyralid production." http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/h...st-1076881.php |
weed control
On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 08:04:03 -0700, Bob F wrote:
"The organic growers in Eastern Washington who lost their certification due to involuntary clopyralid contamination disagree. So do officials at WSU at Pullman who have paid out more than $200,000 in damages to growers whose tomato crops were killed by clopyralid-contaminated WSU compost. So, thankfully, does Eastern Washington University, where researchers are calling on Dow to cease clopyralid production." What is clear from this is when the house gets sold I have to take what remains of my quart to a toxic waste disposal site. And I should also do this with my mom's RoundUp. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
weed control
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:
I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still, that quart should last you a good few years! I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1). Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind. But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose bush. At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will continue into the next season. I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple years. I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual, if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the low first year would survive. Don http://foraging.com/ e-mail at page bottom. |
weed control
Don Wiss wrote:
Jeff Layman wrote: I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still, that quart should last you a good few years! I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1). Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind. But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose bush. At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will continue into the next season. I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple years. I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual, if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the low first year would survive. no, that's not how seeds work, some will remain viable for quite some time. sure you may have gotten the most recent crops of seeds, but there are likely plenty more in the soil that can eventually sprout given the right conditions. thistle seeds get moved around by birds/animals. i dig them up when they try to get going in the more formal gardens here, but they are all over in other places. aside from thistles and garlic mustard we also have things like sow thistle and some invasive grasses i keep under control using manual methods. i don't like using any herbicides here if i can avoid it. a few spots of morning glory mayhem which i would never plant again anywhere. poison ivy, wild grape vines, sumac... luckily we never got into blackberries. those are just the wild plants to try to work around then there are the honeysuckles we planted and the lavender which we both are reactive if we get sap on the skin, the garlic i scattered around and have been trying to weed out ever since, introduced plants from wildflower seed mixes which aren't very nice and spread all over the place... and then there's pennyroyal and others of the mint family, yarrows, ... :) the nice thing is that we are ok with thymes and they are doing well at taking over some spaces that used to be weed magnets. once they fill in that calms down an area nicely. not much bothers them. i really can't wait until i can take what little grassy areas are left and turn them into gardens of one kind or another. there's plenty of grasses around us, i don't really need them here though. i'd much rather have strawberries or something flowering or edible (or both). songbird |
weed control
On Fri, 09 Sep 2016 14:38:03 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote: On Wed, 13 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote: I suppose that anything that works well isn't going to be cheap. Still, that quart should last you a good few years! I'm still working on it. First I now use an ounce for a gallon. The instructions are all about how many pints per acre (e.g. 1/2 to 1). Then the Canada thistle keeps popping up in new locations. The back yard is about 1/2 acre in size. Some is overgrown. The location where the infestation started, and where I started to spray, is now clear. But each time I go out I find an entirely new area infested with mostly small plants. So small I could probably pull them up and leave no root behind. But then there will be a big one or two, like inside of a untamed rose bush. At the last spraying there were seeds flying all around. Even from small plants. I hope spraying the seeds killed the seeds. I know the battle will continue into the next season. I am also fighting an infestation of garlic mustard in one corner of the yard. This one will be easier. I pulled the second year up last year as it was going to seed. This Spring I made sure I got every second year before it went to seed. Do that again next Spring and I should be done. Maybe a few seeds take two years to germinate, but I can look for those in a couple years. I figured out what the survival strategy is for biannuals. Garlic mustard likes forests. If the plant was an annual, and a forest fire came through just before putting out seeds, it would wipe out the plant. For a biannual, if a forest fire came through, the second year would get wiped out, but the low first year would survive. This is probably not very helpful to you, but when I bought this property it had a couple of acres of lawn/pasture surrounding the house which was infested with a variety of weeds, mostly dandelions, plantain and thistles. Spraying and regular mowing never really worked as it just seemed to create new opportunities for weeds to establish themselves again. A few years ago I wised up and applied plenty of fertiliser and lime, kept it well irrigated and ran sheep on it. Even after the first year the difference was quite noticeable, by the second year the weeds were essentially completely gone. The better types of grass have dominated the pasture now too and grows super lush. I rarely need to use herbicides anywhere on the property now. |
You can salt them, warm water and salt in a bucket (stirred) then go over your your gravel driveway giving the weeds a decent drink
Roundup or zero is good also, you can get ones that are very pinpointed |
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