Prune Tomatoes?
Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted
my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo |
Prune Tomatoes?
You silly goose.
You made me think there might be some new tomato cultivar with fruit that makes you poop! Since you planted them too close together, you have given yourself no choice but to cut the plants back. Fleemo wrote in message om... Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo |
Prune Tomatoes?
"Fleemo" wrote in message
om... Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo I wouldn't. You'll get nicer tomatoes if they grow in the shade of all those leaves. |
Prune Tomatoes?
|
Prune Tomatoes?
I have been watching a lot of garden shows this season (Martha, Rebecca,
Victory Garden, HGTV etc.) and I recently heard two things about pruning tomatoes. One was that you should cut all side branches from tomato plants. Not laterals but if there are laterals that branch out further. Supposedly these just suck energy away from tomato production. Secondly, somewhere it was said that you should lop off the first blooms on a tomato plant because it will ensure bigger better tomatoes down the road. It seems to me that if this is true, it might only work for indeterminate tomatoes not determinate ones. Can anyway shed light on either of these two pieces of wisdom? "MLEBLANCA" wrote in message ... In article , (Fleemo) writes: Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo If the past three days are an indication of summer-to-be, then you shouldn't prune at all. Tomatoes will be sunburned without a good cover of leaves in our 100+ temps. If later on, it seems to be too much of a jungle in there, you can selectively prune off a few leaves to let in some air and light. Emilie NorCal |
Prune Tomatoes?
The first thing I thought of when I saw the subject was "dried plum
tomatoes" |
Prune Tomatoes?
"mmarteen" wrote in message
... I have been watching a lot of garden shows this season (Martha, Rebecca, Victory Garden, HGTV etc.) and I recently heard two things about pruning tomatoes. One was that you should cut all side branches from tomato plants. Not laterals but if there are laterals that branch out further. Supposedly these just suck energy away from tomato production. Secondly, somewhere it was said that you should lop off the first blooms on a tomato plant because it will ensure bigger better tomatoes down the road. It seems to me that if this is true, it might only work for indeterminate tomatoes not determinate ones. Can anyway shed light on either of these two pieces of wisdom? All I can say is that the size of the tomatoes doesn't matter if they're cracked from the sun, and from uneven soil moisture. The canopy of leaves is there for a good reason. Why screw around with it? With almost any modern tomato variety, I find that 2 big plants gives me more than enough tomatoes for a family of 3, plus assorted neighbors. I grow them in a simple, home made cylindrical cage, 3' in diameter and 5' high. |
Prune Tomatoes?
Doug Kanter wrote: "mmarteen" wrote in message ... I have been watching a lot of garden shows this season (Martha, Rebecca, Victory Garden, HGTV etc.) and I recently heard two things about pruning tomatoes. One was that you should cut all side branches from tomato plants. Not laterals but if there are laterals that branch out further. Supposedly these just suck energy away from tomato production. Secondly, somewhere it was said that you should lop off the first blooms on a tomato plant because it will ensure bigger better tomatoes down the road. It seems to me that if this is true, it might only work for indeterminate tomatoes not determinate ones. Can anyway shed light on either of these two pieces of wisdom? All I can say is that the size of the tomatoes doesn't matter if they're cracked from the sun, and from uneven soil moisture. The canopy of leaves is there for a good reason. Why screw around with it? With almost any modern tomato variety, I find that 2 big plants gives me more than enough tomatoes for a family of 3, plus assorted neighbors. I grow them in a simple, home made cylindrical cage, 3' in diameter and 5' high. In some climates, where summer sun and temperatures are pretty mild, removing the laterals is definitely recommended, else the fruit receives insufficient sunlight to ripen satisfctorily. pam - gardengal |
Prune Tomatoes?
On Mon, 02 Jun 2003 06:14:26 -0400, Dwight Sipler
wrote: The first thing I thought of when I saw the subject was "dried plum tomatoes" ^_^ Isn't it funny what some subject lines suggest? "Squirrel eating bulbs" was a real knee-slapper (just add a hyphen). I gather additional amusement by *mis*-reading some lines. |
Prune Tomatoes?
"mmarteen" wrote:
I have been watching a lot of garden shows this season (Martha, Rebecca, Victory Garden, HGTV etc.) and I recently heard two things about pruning tomatoes. One was that you should cut all side branches from tomato plants. Not laterals but if there are laterals that branch out further. Supposedly these just suck energy away from tomato production. I've also read that you should remove "suckers" but ONLY on indeterminate (vining) plants. They are the shoots that sprout from the V-nothces of leafy laterals (between the branch and main stem). One source said these will only be leafy stems. So the best action is to pinch them out and let the plant concentrate on its first fruit bearing laterals. In Sq.Ft.Gardening Bartholemew explains that these will produce an entire new vine, eventually with its own laterals (every third one bearing fruit). However, you may not have enough season or energy to produce ripe fruit on every laterals on a very tall vine. Somewhere I read the vining type can be grown as a bush by terminating the main stem and letting the suckers mature--therefore producing a bush form. Don't know how reliable that second bit is-but it makes sense. Determinate or bush plants should not pruned, since they grow to a certain size (2-3ft) naturally. You need to know which you have. Seed packets or the purchase source should tell you which it is. Once grown you can differentiate them (too late) bush/determinates end the branches with flowers, while vining produce short stems with flowers along the branches. Secondly, somewhere it was said that you should lop off the first blooms on a tomato plant because it will ensure bigger better tomatoes down the road. It seems to me that if this is true, it might only work for indeterminate tomatoes not determinate ones. Can anyway shed light on either of these two pieces of wisdom? "MLEBLANCA" wrote in message ... In article , (Fleemo) writes: Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo If the past three days are an indication of summer-to-be, then you shouldn't prune at all. Tomatoes will be sunburned without a good cover of leaves in our 100+ temps. If later on, it seems to be too much of a jungle in there, you can selectively prune off a few leaves to let in some air and light. Emilie NorCal DiGiTAL_ViNYL (no email) |
Prune Tomatoes?
What a dweeb.
I had said earlier that the subject heading made it look like they were talking about some new fangled tomatoe that makes you poop. Dwight Sipler wrote in message ... The first thing I thought of when I saw the subject was "dried plum tomatoes" |
Prune Tomatoes?
What a dweeb.
I had said earlier that the subject heading made it look like they were talking about some nw fangled tomatose that makes you poop. Frogleg wrote in message ... On Mon, 02 Jun 2003 06:14:26 -0400, Dwight Sipler wrote: The first thing I thought of when I saw the subject was "dried plum tomatoes" ^_^ Isn't it funny what some subject lines suggest? "Squirrel eating bulbs" was a real knee-slapper (just add a hyphen). I gather additional amusement by *mis*-reading some lines. |
Prune Tomatoes?
You shouldn't be watching those shows.
They will rot your brain. Oops, too late!!! mmarteen wrote in message ... I have been watching a lot of garden shows this season (Martha, Rebecca, Victory Garden, HGTV etc.) and I recently heard two things about pruning tomatoes. One was that you should cut all side branches from tomato plants. Not laterals but if there are laterals that branch out further. Supposedly these just suck energy away from tomato production. Secondly, somewhere it was said that you should lop off the first blooms on a tomato plant because it will ensure bigger better tomatoes down the road. It seems to me that if this is true, it might only work for indeterminate tomatoes not determinate ones. Can anyway shed light on either of these two pieces of wisdom? "MLEBLANCA" wrote in message ... In article , (Fleemo) writes: Following the advice in the book "Square Foot Gardening", I've planted my tomatoes closer together this season than ever before. Now I have six large tomato plants all growing together to form one giant tomato bush. Should I prune the tomato plants back to prevent overcrowding of the limbs? -Fleemo If the past three days are an indication of summer-to-be, then you shouldn't prune at all. Tomatoes will be sunburned without a good cover of leaves in our 100+ temps. If later on, it seems to be too much of a jungle in there, you can selectively prune off a few leaves to let in some air and light. Emilie NorCal |
Prune Tomatoes?
In article ,
"Cereoid-UR12yo" wrote: What a dweeb. Isn't that an acronym for Darned Wonderful Excitingly Ecclectic Buddy? I had said earlier that the subject heading made it look like they were talking about some new fangled tomatoe that makes you poop. Or, if you seal up your bung hole tight enough, makes you pop. -paghat the ratgirl Dwight Sipler wrote in message ... The first thing I thought of when I saw the subject was "dried plum tomatoes" -- "Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher. "Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature. -from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers" See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/ |
Prune Tomatoes?
"Pam" wrote in message
... All I can say is that the size of the tomatoes doesn't matter if they're cracked from the sun, and from uneven soil moisture. The canopy of leaves is there for a good reason. Why screw around with it? With almost any modern tomato variety, I find that 2 big plants gives me more than enough tomatoes for a family of 3, plus assorted neighbors. I grow them in a simple, home made cylindrical cage, 3' in diameter and 5' high. In some climates, where summer sun and temperatures are pretty mild, removing the laterals is definitely recommended, else the fruit receives insufficient sunlight to ripen satisfctorily. Hmm! I didn't know that. But, I wasn't aware the fruit itself needed sun to ripen. 90% of mine are shaded by the leaves. Maybe I'm missing out on faster tomatoes. :-) |
Prune Tomatoes?
Doug Kanter wrote:
... But, I wasn't aware the fruit itself needed sun to ripen. 90% of mine are shaded by the leaves... The fruit will ripen without sun. However, the plant needs sun. Those tomatoes shaded by leaves will do just fine. At least mine do. If the fruit gets too much sun, it can be subject to sunscald, a condition that turns the skin pale pink/yellow/white. Still edible, but not appealing or saleable. |
Prune Tomatoes?
"Dwight Sipler" wrote in message
... Doug Kanter wrote: ... But, I wasn't aware the fruit itself needed sun to ripen. 90% of mine are shaded by the leaves... The fruit will ripen without sun. However, the plant needs sun. Those tomatoes shaded by leaves will do just fine. At least mine do. If the fruit gets too much sun, it can be subject to sunscald, a condition that turns the skin pale pink/yellow/white. Still edible, but not appealing or saleable. Right....that's what I've read for 20 years, and it's why I've always grown tomatoes in cages which formed a shelter of leaves for the fruits themselves. Pam (2 messages back) seems to feel otherwise. |
Prune Tomatoes?
Doug Kanter wrote: "Dwight Sipler" wrote in message ... Doug Kanter wrote: ... But, I wasn't aware the fruit itself needed sun to ripen. 90% of mine are shaded by the leaves... The fruit will ripen without sun. However, the plant needs sun. Those tomatoes shaded by leaves will do just fine. At least mine do. If the fruit gets too much sun, it can be subject to sunscald, a condition that turns the skin pale pink/yellow/white. Still edible, but not appealing or saleable. Right....that's what I've read for 20 years, and it's why I've always grown tomatoes in cages which formed a shelter of leaves for the fruits themselves. Pam (2 messages back) seems to feel otherwise. It may have something to do with climate - in my area, most tomato growers encourage the removal of lateral sucker shoots. Our summers are very mild - seldom do we generate enough heat to encourage tomatoes to ripen much before first frost. This year, our spring was so chilly and night time temps so low (although in the 70's during the day yesterday, it still dropped into the high 40's last night) that tomatoes have not been recommended to be planted out until this month. Removal of these lateral suckers maximizes the available sunlight and temperatures, otherwise we may never realize any ripe fruit! You obviously live in an area which has normal summer heat :-) Sunscald on tomatoes on the west side of the Cascades is unheard of! pam - gardengal |
Prune Tomatoes?
Pam wrote:
...in my area, most tomato growers encourage the removal of lateral sucker shoots. Our summers are very mild - seldom do we generate enough heat to encourage tomatoes to ripen much before first frost. This year, our spring was so chilly and night time temps so low (although in the 70's during the day yesterday, it still dropped into the high 40's last night) that tomatoes have not been recommended to be planted out until this month. Removal of these lateral suckers maximizes the available sunlight and temperatures, otherwise we may never realize any ripe fruit! You obviously live in an area which has normal summer heat :-) Sunscald on tomatoes on the west side of the Cascades is unheard of!.. My condolances on your short summer climate. I'm in New England (central MA). My first planting of tomatoes got it one night about 2 weeks ago. We still have nights in the (high) 40's occasionally, but my second planting is all out there now. During the summer we average 3-4 days in the 90's (21 last summer), but generally fairly temperate, in the mid 80's. We have not felt the need for air conditioning just for those 3-4 days (it would have been nice last year, but we made it through). I think it was 2 years ago that the only day over 90 was in April (good old unpredictable New England weather: see http://www.islandnet.com/~see/weather/arts/twain1.htm). A breeze generally does the trick, and gives us fresh air in the house as well. Last expected frost for this area is May 15. We occasionally get scattered frost late May-early June, but not often. Sunscald here is well known, but not a really significant problem. I believe that removal of the suckers is done not for admitting sunlight, but for encouraging the development of the first fruit clusters. If the plant is trying to ripen fruit and grow at the same time, its resources are thinned. If the growth option is taken away, the resources are available for ripening the fruit. Consequently removing suckers will result in earlier fruit, although studies have shown that the total yield for the year is reduced. However, the early fruit gets the dollars, so the economic yield may be increased. |
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