Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

Hello,

I'm a first-time gardener, and I've got nearly all of my zucchini
rotting at the tips (see photos).

http://img20.photobucket.com/albums/...hini-rot-1.jpg
http://img20.photobucket.com/albums/...hini-rot-2.jpg

I've searched for info and come across two possible causes: calcium
deficiency or too much moisture. I haven't done a soil test, so I'm not
sure about the calcium. I'm using a drip system, but I also do overhead
watering quite a bit - perhaps that is the problem? If I did supplement
the soil, is there an organic or relatively natural method?

Thanks!
-Dusty

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

try your post on A HREF="aol://5863:119/rec.gardens.edible"rec.gardens.edible
(unread)/A
they will know for sure!

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

Dusty Davis dustydavis - at - gmail.com wrote in message
news:2004061412353170377%dustydavisatgmailcom@news .charter.net...
Hello,

I'm a first-time gardener, and I've got nearly all of my zucchini
rotting at the tips (see photos).

http://img20.photobucket.com/albums/...hini-rot-1.jpg
http://img20.photobucket.com/albums/...hini-rot-2.jpg

I've searched for info and come across two possible causes: calcium
deficiency or too much moisture. I haven't done a soil test, so I'm not
sure about the calcium. I'm using a drip system, but I also do overhead
watering quite a bit - perhaps that is the problem? If I did supplement
the soil, is there an organic or relatively natural method?


I know the following applies to cucumbers, but since they're also members of
the squash family, maybe this will apply to your zucchini as well.
"Withering of young cucumbers starting at the blossom end is due to uneven
growth resulting from irregular watering. Remove all the fruits from an
affected plant to rest it, and spray the foliage with a foliar feed if it
has a poor color. Later-developing fruits should be normal once the plant
regains its vigor, providing there is no root disease present. Prevent
further trouble by watering cucumbers carefully and regularly."

HTH, s.

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

Dusty Davis dustydavis - at - gmail.com wrote in message
news:2004061412353170377%dustydavisatgmailcom@news .charter.net...

...I've searched for info and come across two possible causes: calcium
deficiency or too much moisture. I haven't done a soil test, so I'm not
sure about the calcium. I'm using a drip system, but I also do overhead
watering quite a bit - perhaps that is the problem? If I did supplement
the soil, is there an organic or relatively natural method?



Blossom end rot is generally attributed to calcium deficiency. That's a
deficiency in the fruit, not necessarily in the soil or even in the
plant. Calcium availability in the soil is reduced by low pH, so a soil
test might help. I've never had much luck with foliar feeding. On the
other hand, blossom end rot on squash and tomatoes appears to be more
common on early fruit, when the calcium in the plant is redirected from
the fruit to the growing point of the plant. Frequently the plant will
grow out of the problem and the later fruit will be free of blossom end rot.

Overhead watering can be a problem with tomatoes, but I've not had a
problem with squash. The only other problem I've had with squash is
powdery mildew. I control it with an application of what is basically
hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide kills the mildew, although heavy
infestations may require several treatments. I use Oxidate (trade name)
which is 27% peroxide, diluted 100:1. The stuff in the grocery store is
generally 2.5-3% strength, so a dilution of 10:1 would be appropriate.

Striped cucumber beetles can be a problem with any cucurbit. Surround
(trade name) is a fine kaolin clay which you can mix with water and
spray on the seedlings. It helps to keep the beetles off the young
plants, which is when most of the damage is done.

I belive both these pesticides are allowed under the National Organic
Program. (Note that this doesn't make them completely safe. Hydrogen
peroxide, while used as a mouthwash, is an oxidizer and can damage
plants and animal tissues at full strength. The clay can be dusty, so it
could be an inhalation problem.)

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

On 2004-06-15 03:41:27 -0700, dps said:

Dusty Davis dustydavis - at - gmail.com wrote in message
news:2004061412353170377%dustydavisatgmailcom@news .charter.net...

...I've searched for info and come across two possible causes: calcium
deficiency or too much moisture. I haven't done a soil test, so I'm not
sure about the calcium. I'm using a drip system, but I also do overhead
watering quite a bit - perhaps that is the problem? If I did supplement
the soil, is there an organic or relatively natural method?



Blossom end rot is generally attributed to calcium deficiency. That's a
deficiency in the fruit, not necessarily in the soil or even in the
plant. Calcium availability in the soil is reduced by low pH, so a soil
test might help. I've never had much luck with foliar feeding. On the
other hand, blossom end rot on squash and tomatoes appears to be more
common on early fruit, when the calcium in the plant is redirected from
the fruit to the growing point of the plant. Frequently the plant will
grow out of the problem and the later fruit will be free of blossom end
rot.

Overhead watering can be a problem with tomatoes, but I've not had a
problem with squash. The only other problem I've had with squash is
powdery mildew. I control it with an application of what is basically
hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide kills the mildew, although heavy
infestations may require several treatments. I use Oxidate (trade name)
which is 27% peroxide, diluted 100:1. The stuff in the grocery store is
generally 2.5-3% strength, so a dilution of 10:1 would be appropriate.

Striped cucumber beetles can be a problem with any cucurbit. Surround
(trade name) is a fine kaolin clay which you can mix with water and
spray on the seedlings. It helps to keep the beetles off the young
plants, which is when most of the damage is done.

I belive both these pesticides are allowed under the National Organic
Program. (Note that this doesn't make them completely safe. Hydrogen
peroxide, while used as a mouthwash, is an oxidizer and can damage
plants and animal tissues at full strength. The clay can be dusty, so
it could be an inhalation problem.)

Thanks for the info! I've purchased a soil test kit and I'll test the
zucchini bed this afternoon. I should have done it before planting, but
live and learn... I'm hoping the later fruit will not have the same
problem.

I haven't had the other problems you mentioned (mildew or beetles) to
this point. The plants have been incredibly fast-growing and strong,
and until the blossom end rot, free of trouble.

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

Dusty Davis wrote:
.... The plants have been incredibly fast-growing and strong, and
until the blossom end rot, free of trouble....


I see you are referring to the Zucchini plants in the plural. Wait until
August.

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

On 2004-06-15 10:42:25 -0700, dps said:

Dusty Davis wrote:
.... The plants have been incredibly fast-growing and strong, and until
the blossom end rot, free of trouble....


I see you are referring to the Zucchini plants in the plural. Wait
until August.

*laughing*

I had no clue when I planted the garden, so I planted seven plants,
thinking it would yield a few pounds of zucchini. When I showed a
colleague (an experienced gardener) a picture of my garden, she got a
concerned look on her face and asked "you planted HOW many plants?" She
thinks I'll be stuffing zucchini into the windows of passing cars by
late summer.

Zucchini rot / organic garden
 

Dusty Davis dustydavis - at - gmail.com wrote in message news:2004061412353170377%dustydavisatgmailcom@new s.charter.net...
I've searched for info and come across two possible causes: calcium
deficiency or too much moisture. I haven't done a soil test, so I'm not
sure about the calcium. I'm using a drip system, but I also do overhead
watering quite a bit - perhaps that is the problem? If I did supplement
the soil, is there an organic or relatively natural method?

I had this same problem with my tomatoes. It was a calcium
deficiency. What cured it was that I put shredded paper around my
plants. Apparently, there is enough calcium in paper pulp that helps
this along. I used paper from my household paper shredder. Those
household bills certainly helped my tomatoes!