|
Stella Dora Plants
I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning
brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
Try "Stella D'Oro" Daylilies instead.
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith |
Stella Dora Plants
Try "Stella D'Oro" Daylilies instead.
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith |
Stella Dora Plants
There are no daylilies with that name.
"Vox Humana" wrote in message ... "Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
There are no daylilies with that name.
"Vox Humana" wrote in message ... "Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
"Cereus-validus" wrote in message m... There are no daylilies with that name. Yes, I know. |
Stella Dora Plants
"Cereus-validus" wrote in message m... There are no daylilies with that name. Yes, I know. |
Stella Dora Plants
I am not speaking of day lilies. I know that they have a short bloom
period. The ones I mean are in bloom all summer and a smaller plant. They are referred to as Stella Dora. They have yellow flowers and almost look like a smaller version of the common daylily. On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 22:43:39 GMT, "Vox Humana" wrote: "Cereus-validus" wrote in message om... There are no daylilies with that name. Yes, I know. |
Stella Dora Plants
I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller
version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. Annette On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 00:19:53 GMT, "Vox Humana" wrote: "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
The stella dora is not a daylily. It looks like a smaller version of
the daylily and is supposed to bloom all summer. Annette On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 04:21:49 GMT, "Cereus-validus" wrote: There are no daylilies with that name. "Vox Humana" wrote in message .. . "Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to
do for the problem. Annette On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 04:20:36 GMT, "Cereus-validus" wrote: Try "Stella D'Oro" Daylilies instead. "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith |
Stella Dora Plants
You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to
do for the problem. Annette On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 04:20:36 GMT, "Cereus-validus" wrote: Try "Stella D'Oro" Daylilies instead. "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. If you are talking about this plant, it IS a daylily: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/2653/ It is a re-blooming variety. The hype says that it blooms all summer. I suppose it does is some yard somewhere. It is used by the tens of thousands in landscapes here in SW Ohio. It blooms heavily for about three week with a few flower before and following the primary bloom. That extend the three weeks to four or five. It rests for about three weeks and then you will see sporadic flowers for the rest of the summer. If you deadhead, the re-blooming will be a little heavier. Daylilies tend to decline after they bloom and this one in no exception. You simply can't believe everything printed on nursery labels. I saw a tag on Oenothera fruticosa today that said it boomed all summer - and it doesn't. You can see a small sample of the ones that I have in the link below. http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=471 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=422 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=425 |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. If you are talking about this plant, it IS a daylily: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/2653/ It is a re-blooming variety. The hype says that it blooms all summer. I suppose it does is some yard somewhere. It is used by the tens of thousands in landscapes here in SW Ohio. It blooms heavily for about three week with a few flower before and following the primary bloom. That extend the three weeks to four or five. It rests for about three weeks and then you will see sporadic flowers for the rest of the summer. If you deadhead, the re-blooming will be a little heavier. Daylilies tend to decline after they bloom and this one in no exception. You simply can't believe everything printed on nursery labels. I saw a tag on Oenothera fruticosa today that said it boomed all summer - and it doesn't. You can see a small sample of the ones that I have in the link below. http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=471 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=422 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=425 |
Stella Dora Plants
The correct name is "Stella D'Oro", you wing nut.
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I am not speaking of day lilies. I know that they have a short bloom period. The ones I mean are in bloom all summer and a smaller plant. They are referred to as Stella Dora. They have yellow flowers and almost look like a smaller version of the common daylily. On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 22:43:39 GMT, "Vox Humana" wrote: "Cereus-validus" wrote in message om... There are no daylilies with that name. Yes, I know. |
Stella Dora Plants
The correct name is "Stella D'Oro", you wing nut, and it is very much a
Hemerocallis hybrid. Do your homework, then get back to us when you know what you are talking about. "Bill Smith" wrote in message om... The stella dora is not a daylily. It looks like a smaller version of the daylily and is supposed to bloom all summer. Annette On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 04:21:49 GMT, "Cereus-validus" wrote: There are no daylilies with that name. "Vox Humana" wrote in message .. . "Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. If you are referring to the daylily of that name, what you are experiencing is normal. They emerge in early spring and then bloom heavily for about a month in late spring to early summer. After the first bloom they tend to set seeds and decline. I try to remove the seeds as they develop. I put some fertilizer on them in the early spring and again after they bloom. Mine have started to boom again. The subsequent bloom is significantly more sparse than the initial bloom. The foliage starts to decline also. By fall, much of the foliage has turned brown. I have about thirty large clumps of them that line a walkway. They need to be divided but the job seem daunting and I would have to find new locations for the divisions. Maybe next year! |
Stella Dora Plants
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Stella Dora Plants
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Stella Dora Plants
On 8/1/04 9:38 AM, in article ,
"Frogleg" wrote: On Sun, 01 Aug 2004 01:55:22 GMT, (Bill Smith) wrote: You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to do for the problem. As Vox said, it's NOT A PROBLEM. It's the normal course of events for even a so-called repeat-bloom hemerocallis. And again, It is not a problem! Cheryl |
Stella Dora Plants
Thanks for the information and websites which were very helpful. I
feel better now about my plants. Many of my replies were sarcastic, so I happy to receive your useful infor. Thanks again. Annette On Sun, 01 Aug 2004 02:30:19 GMT, "Vox Humana" wrote: "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. If you are talking about this plant, it IS a daylily: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/2653/ It is a re-blooming variety. The hype says that it blooms all summer. I suppose it does is some yard somewhere. It is used by the tens of thousands in landscapes here in SW Ohio. It blooms heavily for about three week with a few flower before and following the primary bloom. That extend the three weeks to four or five. It rests for about three weeks and then you will see sporadic flowers for the rest of the summer. If you deadhead, the re-blooming will be a little heavier. Daylilies tend to decline after they bloom and this one in no exception. You simply can't believe everything printed on nursery labels. I saw a tag on Oenothera fruticosa today that said it boomed all summer - and it doesn't. You can see a small sample of the ones that I have in the link below. http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=471 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=422 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=425 |
Stella Dora Plants
Thanks for the information and websites which were very helpful. I
feel better now about my plants. Many of my replies were sarcastic, so I happy to receive your useful infor. Thanks again. Annette On Sun, 01 Aug 2004 02:30:19 GMT, "Vox Humana" wrote: "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. If you are talking about this plant, it IS a daylily: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/2653/ It is a re-blooming variety. The hype says that it blooms all summer. I suppose it does is some yard somewhere. It is used by the tens of thousands in landscapes here in SW Ohio. It blooms heavily for about three week with a few flower before and following the primary bloom. That extend the three weeks to four or five. It rests for about three weeks and then you will see sporadic flowers for the rest of the summer. If you deadhead, the re-blooming will be a little heavier. Daylilies tend to decline after they bloom and this one in no exception. You simply can't believe everything printed on nursery labels. I saw a tag on Oenothera fruticosa today that said it boomed all summer - and it doesn't. You can see a small sample of the ones that I have in the link below. http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=471 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=422 http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=425 |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. Annette There are daylilies that are very short with small flowers. They are not all tall like the ditch lily. I could not find any other perennial with the name Stella Dora. You have a daylily, Stella De Oro. The reason your Stella De Oro is not blooming properly is because the garden centers sell tissue cultured plants marked as Stella De Oro. Tissue cultured plants are not always an exact clone of its famous parent and it does not perform well. Also there are a lot of Stella De Oro look alikes that are not the true Stella De Oro, not even tissue cultured from the true Stella. If I were you I would take the plant back to the garden center where you got it and demand my money back. They are charging too much for that plant as it is. I sell daylilies. The most frequent question I get is asking why their Stella De Oro does not bloom like others they have seen. The problem seems to be getting worse. Probably because there are so many of the so called Stella De Oro in the garden centers. Also even the true Stella De Oro does not bloom all summer. It reblooms a little, some zones more than others. When it gets to be a huge clump there are so many scapes and flowers it takes a long time for the first bloom to bloom out. Also the Stella owner should realize they need to remove those seed pods that form. The seed pods are the round pumpkin like things that form on the end of the scapes after the bloom is finished. Any plant that goes to seed will stop blooming. So after the first bloom is finished, remove the scapes and seed pods right away. Keep your Stella De Oro watered well, and it should bloom better for you if you do not have one of the fake Stella's. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. Annette There are daylilies that are very short with small flowers. They are not all tall like the ditch lily. I could not find any other perennial with the name Stella Dora. You have a daylily, Stella De Oro. The reason your Stella De Oro is not blooming properly is because the garden centers sell tissue cultured plants marked as Stella De Oro. Tissue cultured plants are not always an exact clone of its famous parent and it does not perform well. Also there are a lot of Stella De Oro look alikes that are not the true Stella De Oro, not even tissue cultured from the true Stella. If I were you I would take the plant back to the garden center where you got it and demand my money back. They are charging too much for that plant as it is. I sell daylilies. The most frequent question I get is asking why their Stella De Oro does not bloom like others they have seen. The problem seems to be getting worse. Probably because there are so many of the so called Stella De Oro in the garden centers. Also even the true Stella De Oro does not bloom all summer. It reblooms a little, some zones more than others. When it gets to be a huge clump there are so many scapes and flowers it takes a long time for the first bloom to bloom out. Also the Stella owner should realize they need to remove those seed pods that form. The seed pods are the round pumpkin like things that form on the end of the scapes after the bloom is finished. Any plant that goes to seed will stop blooming. So after the first bloom is finished, remove the scapes and seed pods right away. Keep your Stella De Oro watered well, and it should bloom better for you if you do not have one of the fake Stella's. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to do for the problem. Annette Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
"Bill Smith" wrote in message om... You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to do for the problem. Annette Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
I bought the original plants two years ago, divided them in the Fall
and perhaps that is what is also part of my problem. I have trimmed them back, fertilized them and will wait to see what happens. Thanks so much for the information. Annette On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:38:40 -0400, "Wil" wrote: "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. Annette There are daylilies that are very short with small flowers. They are not all tall like the ditch lily. I could not find any other perennial with the name Stella Dora. You have a daylily, Stella De Oro. The reason your Stella De Oro is not blooming properly is because the garden centers sell tissue cultured plants marked as Stella De Oro. Tissue cultured plants are not always an exact clone of its famous parent and it does not perform well. Also there are a lot of Stella De Oro look alikes that are not the true Stella De Oro, not even tissue cultured from the true Stella. If I were you I would take the plant back to the garden center where you got it and demand my money back. They are charging too much for that plant as it is. I sell daylilies. The most frequent question I get is asking why their Stella De Oro does not bloom like others they have seen. The problem seems to be getting worse. Probably because there are so many of the so called Stella De Oro in the garden centers. Also even the true Stella De Oro does not bloom all summer. It reblooms a little, some zones more than others. When it gets to be a huge clump there are so many scapes and flowers it takes a long time for the first bloom to bloom out. Also the Stella owner should realize they need to remove those seed pods that form. The seed pods are the round pumpkin like things that form on the end of the scapes after the bloom is finished. Any plant that goes to seed will stop blooming. So after the first bloom is finished, remove the scapes and seed pods right away. Keep your Stella De Oro watered well, and it should bloom better for you if you do not have one of the fake Stella's. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
I bought the original plants two years ago, divided them in the Fall
and perhaps that is what is also part of my problem. I have trimmed them back, fertilized them and will wait to see what happens. Thanks so much for the information. Annette On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:38:40 -0400, "Wil" wrote: "Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... I know what a daylily is. What I am referring to is the smaller version of the same type of plant. It is supposed to bloom all summer. It looks very much like the larger daylily. I know the larger one only blooms for a couple of weeks and dies off. Actually any version of this plant is very easy to transplant. Very hardy. Annette There are daylilies that are very short with small flowers. They are not all tall like the ditch lily. I could not find any other perennial with the name Stella Dora. You have a daylily, Stella De Oro. The reason your Stella De Oro is not blooming properly is because the garden centers sell tissue cultured plants marked as Stella De Oro. Tissue cultured plants are not always an exact clone of its famous parent and it does not perform well. Also there are a lot of Stella De Oro look alikes that are not the true Stella De Oro, not even tissue cultured from the true Stella. If I were you I would take the plant back to the garden center where you got it and demand my money back. They are charging too much for that plant as it is. I sell daylilies. The most frequent question I get is asking why their Stella De Oro does not bloom like others they have seen. The problem seems to be getting worse. Probably because there are so many of the so called Stella De Oro in the garden centers. Also even the true Stella De Oro does not bloom all summer. It reblooms a little, some zones more than others. When it gets to be a huge clump there are so many scapes and flowers it takes a long time for the first bloom to bloom out. Also the Stella owner should realize they need to remove those seed pods that form. The seed pods are the round pumpkin like things that form on the end of the scapes after the bloom is finished. Any plant that goes to seed will stop blooming. So after the first bloom is finished, remove the scapes and seed pods right away. Keep your Stella De Oro watered well, and it should bloom better for you if you do not have one of the fake Stella's. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:44:10 -0400, "Wil" wrote:
"Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to do for the problem. Annette Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom. Wil Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you have this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another fertilizer. Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1 tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1 gallon of water. |
Stella Dora Plants
On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:44:10 -0400, "Wil" wrote:
"Bill Smith" wrote in message . com... You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to do for the problem. Annette Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom. Wil Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you have this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another fertilizer. Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1 tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1 gallon of water. |
Stella Dora Plants
Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you
have this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another fertilizer. Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1 tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1 gallon of water. Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong about that. I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash [N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer. Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses it at the wrong time. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you
have this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another fertilizer. Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1 tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1 gallon of water. Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong about that. I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash [N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer. Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses it at the wrong time. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
They like plenty of water and are heavy feeders. Try some
fertilizer and water. Especially important if it's hot and dry this time of year in your parts. As others have said, remove the seed pods as soon as they start to form. Bill Smith wrote: I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith Mike Prager Beaufort, NC (on the coast in zone 8a) (Remove spam traps from email address to reply.) |
Stella Dora Plants
They like plenty of water and are heavy feeders. Try some
fertilizer and water. Especially important if it's hot and dry this time of year in your parts. As others have said, remove the seed pods as soon as they start to form. Bill Smith wrote: I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them? I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer. Thanks Bill Smith Mike Prager Beaufort, NC (on the coast in zone 8a) (Remove spam traps from email address to reply.) |
Stella Dora Plants
On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:
Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong about that. You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading. There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at http://www.miraclegro.com/ I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash [N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer. Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at http://www.scottsprohort.com/ Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses it at the wrong time. Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing. What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:
Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong about that. You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading. There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at http://www.miraclegro.com/ I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash [N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer. Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at http://www.scottsprohort.com/ Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses it at the wrong time. Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing. What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive. Wil |
Stella Dora Plants
On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:
Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong about that. You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading. There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at http://www.miraclegro.com/ I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash [N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer. Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at http://www.scottsprohort.com/ Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses it at the wrong time. Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing. What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive. Wil |
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