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[email protected] 18-02-2005 03:21 AM

Pressure Treated Posts
 
I am building a patio cover and using 4x4 treated douglas fir posts
which I want to then paint. What is the best way to cover the hash
marks from the pressure treatment. Location is in Southern California
where the temperature can reach 100` with direct sunlight.

Thanks for any suggestions.


Tex John 18-02-2005 03:09 PM

If you are talking about the parallel lines up and down the lumber that are
slightly depressed, those would be saw blade marks. The way to make them go
away is to remove them with a belt sander. But with treated lumber, I'd get
a decent breathing mask, not just the cheapo paper ones. Down here, we have
CCA treated lumber (which I wish they would have LEFT as illegal and phased
out) and breathing that arsenic really isn't a good idea...

John
in Houston



wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a patio cover and using 4x4 treated douglas fir posts
which I want to then paint. What is the best way to cover the hash
marks from the pressure treatment. Location is in Southern California
where the temperature can reach 100` with direct sunlight.

Thanks for any suggestions.




Hal 19-02-2005 02:35 PM

On 17 Feb 2005 19:21:07 -0800, wrote:

I am building a patio cover and using 4x4 treated douglas fir posts
which I want to then paint. What is the best way to cover the hash
marks from the pressure treatment. Location is in Southern California
where the temperature can reach 100` with direct sunlight.

Thanks for any suggestions.


I would think Douglas fir would be more expensive than pressure
treated pine and if you are going to paint it why not choose a less
expensive wood? Some pressure treated woods come with a "Do Not
Paint" warning too. It seems the paint can hold moisture in the
wood causing it to decay sooner.

My limited experience with pressure treated woods cause me to resist
sanding and changing the surface of treated wood because the treatment
is more effective on the perimeter of the wood. The center is often
quickly rotted away on pieces cut to length and not end-treated.

There is a rec.woodworking group that might be more helpful.

Regards,

Hal


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