"David Martel" wrote in message
nk.net...

Where would I give it the starter fluid?

Sorry. Remove the air filter and give a big squirt straight down the
carb throat.

Have played with the needle
valve and got it to the point where starts but it won't ever tick over
until operating temperature is reached.

Yes, it is now misadjusted. Screw it completely in and then out 1 1/2
turns.

Clockwise will increase idle speed. You are correct it is an end-stop.
If the screw does not touch metal. then investigate the throttle cable and
the linkages. It would be very unusual for the linkage springs to lose
"springyness".

I don't understand your question about the choke. The choke should be
controlled manually, usually by a lever.

No, this B&S, has the choke-o-matic carb where the choke is naturally shut,
but opens via vacuum acting on a diaphragm between the carb base and fuel
tank under it.

It will have a main fuel mixture screw and idle speed screw. As you say base
setting is 1 1/2 turns out with a 2/3 ful fuel tank. This is important.
Mixture strength varies with fuel level (yes, crap B&S design!)

Usually have to set them slightly on the rich side so they'll accelorate
cleanly from idle (which should be a fastish 1750rpm) without dying, yet run
at full speed without being too rich.

Tim..

Rick wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...

Hello everyone! I have a Briggs and Stratton 3.5hp engine fitted to

a

Hayter rotary mower from the mid 1970s. The Model number is 92982

and

the Type number is 1640-01. It's a 4 cycle, single cylinder, L-head,
air-cooled engine for information.
The problem is I have had it sitting idle for 5 years as the starter
rewind spring broke and lack of time prevented getting it sorted
sooner. Last week I bought a new spring, rope, (approved

Champion/B&S)

spark plug and air filter foam element (old one was disintegrating,
saturated new one with oil and squeezed excess out), filled the sump
with fresh oil and put in half a tank of fresh 95RON unleaded.
So far, so good. But pulling the rope and some carburetor needle

valve

tweeking got the engine to start eventually, burning off the oil I

had

put in throught the spark plug hole. It then splutters and pops

(rich

mixture burning within the exhaust?) The spark plug has looks like

it's

not running lean (fuel/oil on it). It then cuts out (maximum of

about

15 seconds after starting). Then you can restart straight away. Any
ideas as to the adjustments I need to do (I have found I can start

it

and get it to idle very slowly with the throttle lever set to

minimum).

Do I need to play with the idle adjustment screw? Is there the
possibility that the carburetor needs new parts too? I've heard B&S

do

carburetor kits - how much would I be looking at (UK Pounds) and

what

parts do they contain - anyone ever used one?
I know this is a long posting, but i'm not too hot on my knowledge

of

getting carbs to work perfectly for a smooth idle.
Thanks in advance. (This email address is invalid because of

spammers

so reply on here).



From the model number, that's a vertical shaft model with a Pulsa-Jet
carb. The diaphragm kit usually sells for a couple dollars US.

The Briggs and Stratton web site should have the owners manual for
that model...



I had one of those years ago that i had a problem with.
As i recall, the carbs or fuel tanks mounted on them
warped causing fuel feed problems. At one time, there
was some sort of repair kit for this. Or, you
put a new fuel tank on it. I would start with a new
carb kit either way. Make sure too the keyway in the
flywheel is not sheered and the flywheel to keyway
position shifted.

Bob

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g'day james,

at this point i would suggest the carby needs a good overhaul not much
in them but i would think the diaphram would not be working too well
after all that time being dry.



snipped
With peace and brightest of blessings,

len

--
"Be Content With What You Have And
May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In
A World That You May Not Understand."

http://www.users.bigpond.com/gardenlen1

Update: had a go with it this evening (air filter off, bolt back in).
Choke plate opens, engine runs rich for 15 seconds or so, then cuts
out. Petrol mist seen in carb throat. No luck from needle valve
adjustments (thanks D. Martel). Governor has to move a long way before
it takes up the slack in the spring I've noticed, and the idle speed
screw doesn't hit the end point. Have emailed local friendly B&S dealer
about carb overhaul parts pricing/availability. It's all so frustrating
as it's a nice bit of kit and too good to get rid of.

Will let you know how I get on (maybe a week or so).
James

on an engine that old,id replace pointsand condenser,rebuild the carb
,check flywheel key to see if sheared and snug up all the bolts. lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

I think i gummed up the carb.
When I ran out of gas, I put the rest of the gas in from my 5 gallon
plastic tank that was filled two years ago. I ran it dry again and the
mower has sputtered since.

I did not pour gas into the intake by accident.. I accidently poured in in
the mesh area which was just the recoil area for the hand starter.

I changed air filter and plug. I will put some stabil in and see if that
will solve my gummed up carb issue.