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#1
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10hp kohler draining battery while running
i have 10 hp kohler engine (the engine was probably made in the mid
70's) that seems to drain the battery when the engine is running. i replaced the rectifier but am not sure if that has fixed the problem. any ideas? i orginally replaced the battery, but quickly found that was not the problem. -david |
#2
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10hp kohler draining battery while running
check the following
1 is there AC voltage output from the stator into the recifier? if yes 2 double check you have DC voltage comming out of the rectidfier if yes 3check to see if their is a complete circuit from the rectifier to the battery all of these test you can do with a multimeter just find out where the power stops Hope that helps |
#3
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10hp kohler draining battery while running
Check the voltage on the battery terminals before starting, then at cutting speed - if not higher after starting then the charging system is either not functioning or not charging the battery. Possible culprits include, but are not limited to; bad connections, defective alternator coil(s), bad diode, open protection circuit such as fuse or breaker, current drain such as shorted wiring. Patch wrote: About the only way to tell is to run it & see if the battery goes down. If you had the right equipment you could put an ammeter in series with the battery & see if it is charging. "Dave" wrote in message m... i have 10 hp kohler engine (the engine was probably made in the mid 70's) that seems to drain the battery when the engine is running. i replaced the rectifier but am not sure if that has fixed the problem. any ideas? i orginally replaced the battery, but quickly found that was not the problem. -david |
#4
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10hp kohler draining battery while running
The Kohler system is pretty simple and thus easy to troubleshoot. I
just finished adding this system to my garden tractor (John Deere model 208, K181 8HP engine). 1) There are permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel that are used to excite the stator coil (generator electricity). Make sure they are there. They sometimes come off. If this has happened, it gets pretty messy under the flywheel. I have read that they can be re-attached with glue, but I am not sure I would try that. 2) The typical 15 amp stator coil is an 18 pole series wound single coil with a 2 wire output. You can use an ohm meter to verify that it is not open (ie no broken /burned wires) or shorted to ground (likely caused by burning or mechanical failure). The coil should read 0 ohms between the 2 wires and infinitely between either wire and the frame of the stator. 3) The stator connects to a rectifier/regulator assembly. Kohler uses a very simple 3 terminal assembly. The 2 outside terminals (called AC) connect to the stator. With the engine running, you should find anywhere from 8 to 28 volts using a volt meter on the AC scale, depending on the RPM of the engine (idle to 3600 RMP). Using the same meter, switch to DC volts and measure the voltage between the middle terminal (called B+) and the case of the assembly (ground connection). Here you should see about 14 to 15 volts with the engine reving better than 2,000 RPM. NOTE: Even though the assembly has only 3 terminals, it requires 4 to operate. The fourth is the case which MUST BE GROUNDED and thus connected to the negative of the battery. If this connection is open, you will not charge the battery. 4) To verify that the battery is connected to the regulator properly, stop the engine but turn the ignition switch back on. Repeat the about DC meter test. Between the regulator's centre terminal (the B+ one) and the case (the ground connection). You should measure 12 volts coming from the battery. If you don't, you have an open circuit between the regulator and your battery. You need to follow connection from the B+ terminal on the regulator into the harness back to the ignition switch, through that contact to the battery through the circuit breaker. To recap, make sure there are magnets on the flywheel, that stator winding isn't broken, the regulator/rectifier is functioning, and it is connected to the battery. Best of luck! Bob Morgoch MT (Master Tinkerer) Stephen Kurzban wrote in message ... Check the voltage on the battery terminals before starting, then at cutting speed - if not higher after starting then the charging system is either not functioning or not charging the battery. Possible culprits include, but are not limited to; bad connections, defective alternator coil(s), bad diode, open protection circuit such as fuse or breaker, current drain such as shorted wiring. Patch wrote: About the only way to tell is to run it & see if the battery goes down. If you had the right equipment you could put an ammeter in series with the battery & see if it is charging. "Dave" wrote in message m... i have 10 hp kohler engine (the engine was probably made in the mid 70's) that seems to drain the battery when the engine is running. i replaced the rectifier but am not sure if that has fixed the problem. any ideas? i orginally replaced the battery, but quickly found that was not the problem. -david |
#5
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10hp kohler draining battery while running
I just wanted to say thanks for this reply because my JD GT262 has just
developed this same problem. I put in a new battery (only $15 at Wal-Mart, so no biggie to do that) and ran it for a bit. The battery light glowed fully strong the whole time. I intend to try do perform the tasks you noted below, so thanks. Tomes Bob M wrote in message om... : The Kohler system is pretty simple and thus easy to troubleshoot. I : just finished adding this system to my garden tractor (John Deere : model 208, K181 8HP engine). : : 1) There are permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel that are used : to excite the stator coil (generator electricity). Make sure they are : there. They sometimes come off. If this has happened, it gets pretty : messy under the flywheel. I have read that they can be re-attached : with glue, but I am not sure I would try that. : : 2) The typical 15 amp stator coil is an 18 pole series wound single : coil with a 2 wire output. You can use an ohm meter to verify that it : is not open (ie no broken /burned wires) or shorted to ground (likely : caused by burning or mechanical failure). The coil should read 0 ohms : between the 2 wires and infinitely between either wire and the frame : of the stator. : : 3) The stator connects to a rectifier/regulator assembly. Kohler uses : a very simple 3 terminal assembly. The 2 outside terminals (called AC) : connect to the stator. With the engine running, you should find : anywhere from 8 to 28 volts using a volt meter on the AC scale, : depending on the RPM of the engine (idle to 3600 RMP). Using the same : meter, switch to DC volts and measure the voltage between the middle : terminal (called B+) and the case of the assembly (ground connection). : Here you should see about 14 to 15 volts with the engine reving better : than 2,000 RPM. NOTE: Even though the assembly has only 3 terminals, : it requires 4 to operate. The fourth is the case which MUST BE : GROUNDED and thus connected to the negative of the battery. If this : connection is open, you will not charge the battery. : : 4) To verify that the battery is connected to the regulator properly, : stop the engine but turn the ignition switch back on. Repeat the about : DC meter test. Between the regulator's centre terminal (the B+ one) : and the case (the ground connection). You should measure 12 volts : coming from the battery. If you don't, you have an open circuit : between the regulator and your battery. You need to follow connection : from the B+ terminal on the regulator into the harness back to the : ignition switch, through that contact to the battery through the : circuit breaker. : : To recap, make sure there are magnets on the flywheel, that stator : winding isn't broken, the regulator/rectifier is functioning, and it : is connected to the battery. : : Best of luck! : : Bob Morgoch MT (Master Tinkerer) : : : Stephen Kurzban wrote in message ... : Check the voltage on the battery terminals before starting, : then at cutting speed - if not higher after starting then : the charging system is either not functioning or not : charging the battery. : : Possible culprits include, but are not limited to; bad : connections, defective alternator coil(s), bad diode, open : protection circuit such as fuse or breaker, current drain : such as shorted wiring. : : Patch wrote: : : About the only way to tell is to run it & see if the battery goes down. If : you had the right equipment you could put an ammeter in series with the : battery & see if it is charging. : : "Dave" wrote in message : m... : i have 10 hp kohler engine (the engine was probably made in the mid : 70's) that seems to drain the battery when the engine is running. i : replaced the rectifier but am not sure if that has fixed the problem. : any ideas? : : i orginally replaced the battery, but quickly found that was not the : problem. : : -david |
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