| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Does overseeding work?
My lawn is half green and half brown. I can't figure it out.
The blades that are green look great. But there is a 50/50 mixture of dead brown grass that is still rooted to the ground. Last year I mistakenly thought this was thatch, so I bought a dethatcher. But then when I learned how to check thatch by looking at a cross section of the soil and grass, I found I had no thatch problem. Here's what it looked like last year: http://www.mbsoundworks.com/tempstuff/grass1.jpg http://www.mbsoundworks.com/tempstuff/grass2.jpg The pictures were taken before the drought, so it wasn't a water problem. You can see what it looks like compared to my neighbor's yard! Can anyone help me? I'm in northwestern Illinois. As the lawns are waking up, I can already see that it's going to look the same as it did last year. I plug-aerated in the Fall, and put down winterizer. I've put down my Scotts pre-emergent/fertilizer already. I'm willing to do the work, but I'm at a loss as to what the problem is! |
Does overseeding work?
" wrote:
I've put down my Scotts pre-emergent/fertilizer already. I'm willing to do the work, but I'm at a loss as to what the problem is! You can't seed after using pre-e. -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
Does overseeding work?
|
Does overseeding work?
" wrote:
On 12 Apr 2003 00:13:26 GMT, wrote: You can't seed after using pre-e. Crap! Is there anything I can do? What's that brown, dead stuff, Mopar? Mmmm......Mopar. Was it like that all season? If not,you may be seeing the annual grasses die during the summer. This is normal. -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
Does overseeding work?
|
Does overseeding work?
" wrote:
On 12 Apr 2003 11:53:26 GMT, wrote: Was it like that all season? If not,you may be seeing the annual grasses die during the summer. This is normal. Yeah...it's been this way since we bought the house 4 years ago. It's never looked all green, inspite of all my feeding, watering, etc. It's hard to tell from your pic,but the hour glass lesions on the blighted foliage resemble disease damage. You might want to try a preventitive broad-spectrum fungicide application fairly soon. Beware,it's expensive. Also a soil sample to at least see what your ph is. -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
Does overseeding work?
wrote in message ... My lawn is half green and half brown. I can't figure it out. The blades that are green look great. But there is a 50/50 mixture of dead brown grass that is still rooted to the ground. Last year I mistakenly thought this was thatch, so I bought a dethatcher. But then when I learned how to check thatch by looking at a cross section of the soil and grass, I found I had no thatch problem. Here's what it looked like last year: http://www.mbsoundworks.com/tempstuff/grass1.jpg http://www.mbsoundworks.com/tempstuff/grass2.jpg The pictures were taken before the drought, so it wasn't a water problem. You can see what it looks like compared to my neighbor's yard! Can anyone help me? I'm in northwestern Illinois. As the lawns are waking up, I can already see that it's going to look the same as it did last year. I plug-aerated in the Fall, and put down winterizer. I've put down my Scotts pre-emergent/fertilizer already. I'm willing to do the work, but I'm at a loss as to what the problem is! I would suggest that before you get too involved check to make sure that you've got the right about of a good quality, slow-release fertilizer going down. Do you know how to tell what the percentage of N is in the fert you are applying? The first number of the 3 on the bag is the N%. So if you've got a 50lb bag of 25-10-10 you know you're dealing w/ 12.5lbs of Nitrogen. Then you want to apply the fert in 3 or 4 applications per season and you want to lay down about 4lbs of N/ 1,000 square ft. for the entire season. This means you are going to have to measure your yard or at least get a good approximation. I would work toward an application something like this. early spring fert 1 1/4 lbs N/ 1,000 sq. ft. later spring fert 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lbs N/ 1000 sq ft summer fert about 1/2 lb N/ 1000 sq ft fall fert 1 tpp 1 1/2 lbs N/ 1000 sq ft. ...... remember you are dealing w/ the nitrogen component only here....not the weight of the whole bag. Your lawn is quite large so I would sugget that you try to calibrate your spreader on a smaller section of grass that is measured off accurately. The only other thing I can suggest is that for the summer application you apply a fert that has an insecticide built into it. At a glance I didn't see any insect damage in the photo's, but I recomment a preventative 'cause it would be a shame to get that lawn going and then have the bugs chew it up in August. Good luck w/ it, Peter H |
Does overseeding work?
Thanks...I will digest all of this nitrogen information.
I've looked everywhere on the net I could find that has photos of lawn diseases. None of the pictures look like what I have. Mine isn't patchy or blotchy, and the green blades themselves never look like anything is "attacking" them...they seem healthy and green. I've already done the Scotts pre-emergent (Halts with Turf Builder). I used two 40 pound bags, which are supposed to cover 15,000 sq ft each. I ran out with only the small back corner undone. I used a Scotts Brand spreader set to their recommended settings. So, I can't be sure that this MEANS my lawn is a little over 30,000 sq ft....I will figure out a way to measure and calibrate as you mentioned. |
Does overseeding work?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2003 15:01:43 +0000, wrote:
Thanks...I will digest all of this nitrogen information. I've looked everywhere on the net I could find that has photos of lawn diseases. None of the pictures look like what I have. Mine isn't patchy or blotchy, and the green blades themselves never look like anything is "attacking" them...they seem healthy and green. I've already done the Scotts pre-emergent (Halts with Turf Builder). I used two 40 pound bags, which are supposed to cover 15,000 sq ft each. I ran out with only the small back corner undone. I used a Scotts Brand spreader set to their recommended settings. So, I can't be sure that this MEANS my lawn is a little over 30,000 sq ft....I will figure out a way to measure and calibrate as you mentioned. If you take a look at your property deed you will see the dimensions of your property. Take the dimensions of the property and subtract out the square footage of the house. Then try to add in the square footage of your driveway flower beds..ect. That will give you a ball park square footage. This may or maynot be usefull to you but there are 43,560 square feet per acre. After looking at your pictures, my opinion is that your grass is not suffering from nutritional deficiencies or disease. It looks alot like improper mowing hight for the varity of grass you have or the pre-emergent may of affected the annual native grass that is mixed into your lawn. The latter is a bit of a stretch but possible. I would attempt to validate the grass type you have and re-set the mower deck to the correct hight for that varity. Then I would change the mower blades or at least sharpen them. I have also seen this type of problem when people let their grass get too high and they try to mow it to the right hight all at once. The grass developed a longer, thicker stock when the grass was high and after it was mowed that's all that was left of the grass plant. Hence the brown stocks. Good luck, hope that helps....... -- http://yard-works.netfirms.com |
Does overseeding work?
wrote in message ... Thanks...I will digest all of this nitrogen information. I've looked everywhere on the net I could find that has photos of lawn diseases. None of the pictures look like what I have. Mine isn't patchy or blotchy, and the green blades themselves never look like anything is "attacking" them...they seem healthy and green. I've already done the Scotts pre-emergent (Halts with Turf Builder). I used two 40 pound bags, which are supposed to cover 15,000 sq ft each. I ran out with only the small back corner undone. I used a Scotts Brand spreader set to their recommended settings. So, I can't be sure that this MEANS my lawn is a little over 30,000 sq ft....I will figure out a way to measure and calibrate as you mentioned. Yes to me your lawn didn't seem diseased. Normally diseased lawns are either overfed or overwatered or both. To me it looked more like it was undernourished. Good lawns can take time to develop. I've just finished an 11 year stint in the business and I always found it frustrating that new customers would want a great lawn right away. If you concentrate on nourishing it properly this season and then make sure to get the surface-feeding bugs during ther summer I suspect that you will be fairly satisfied w/ it this year and the nice thing is that you will then be set up for an even better lawn next season. The main thing to remember is that during the heat of the summer you shouldn't force it to grow. Your lawn will want to go dormant and you should let it. Lawns are a spring and fall thing. Most turf species will only green up in the cool weather. Golf courses keep their grasses green through the summer by applying lots and lots of water. They also have to bath them in fungicides to keep them goin'. Peter H |
Does overseeding work?
"Adele" wrote:
wrote in message ... Thanks...I will digest all of this nitrogen information. I've looked everywhere on the net I could find that has photos of lawn diseases. None of the pictures look like what I have. Mine isn't patchy or blotchy, and the green blades themselves never look like anything is "attacking" them...they seem healthy and green. I've already done the Scotts pre-emergent (Halts with Turf Builder). I used two 40 pound bags, which are supposed to cover 15,000 sq ft each. I ran out with only the small back corner undone. I used a Scotts Brand spreader set to their recommended settings. So, I can't be sure that this MEANS my lawn is a little over 30,000 sq ft....I will figure out a way to measure and calibrate as you mentioned. Yes to me your lawn didn't seem diseased. Normally diseased lawns are either overfed or overwatered or both. To me it looked more like it was undernourished. Good lawns can take time to develop. I've just finished an 11 year stint in the business and I always found it frustrating that new customers would want a great lawn right away. If you concentrate on nourishing it properly this season and then make sure to get the surface-feeding bugs during ther summer I suspect that you will be fairly satisfied w/ it this year and the nice thing is that you will then be set up for an even better lawn next season. The main thing to remember is that during the heat of the summer you shouldn't force it to grow. Your lawn will want to go dormant and you should let it. Lawns are a spring and fall thing. Most turf species will only green up in the cool weather. Golf courses keep their grasses green through the summer by applying lots and lots of water. They also have to bath them in fungicides to keep them goin'. Peter H Leaf spot is the disease they're treating,rye and blue get it real bad, I pre-treat quite a few lawns for it. (people with money) Like I said,it's hard to tell from that one close up pic. Micro-nutrients may be in order too, density is good. I'm looking for the not so obvious, a soil test is in order for starters. It may be a PH thing too. ? -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
Does overseeding work?
" wrote:
Thanks...I will digest all of this nitrogen information. Take the first number on the bag and divide it in half. That's how many 1000 sg ft that bag will do,at one pound of nitrogen/1000. That's plenty for one feeding. If you suspect it to be a nitro problem,try a -little- urea in the far back,as a test. -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
Does overseeding work?
I'm looking for the not so obvious, a soil test is in order for starters. Is that something I can do myself, with a kit? Or do I go to an extension office? |
Does overseeding work?
" wrote:
I'm looking for the not so obvious, a soil test is in order for starters. Is that something I can do myself, with a kit? Or do I go to an extension office? There's either way. I'd go with sending it off. Be sure to get soil from a few different areas. This way you'll know what's up. You'd like a PH of 6 to 7 . With the extension report,you'll also find out what your nutrient levels are,and you can adjust accordingly. The home test kits don't suck.. (follow instructions) -- Go#40 42 12 God Bless Our Troops Look at this asshole: http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/...jokes/9409.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ 50 GB/Month |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:58 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
GardenBanter