This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10 inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you have
to say.

Thanks

"Loren" u27944@uwe wrote in message news:67ddd425d38ac@uwe...
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks

have you tried roundup on the tender new shoots?

I have tried roundup, but likely not in the quantities that might be
necessary. I will give that a shot.



Don wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]

Thanks

have you tried roundup on the tender new shoots?

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

Loren wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10 inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you have
to say.

Thanks


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle
around the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half
inches in diameter and from eight to ten inches deep. Fill them with
salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing product.
The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker growth
from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you can
apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except
the plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.

"A. Pismo Clam" wrote in message
...
Loren wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.
The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I
have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.
If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.

Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?


Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.

Srgnt Billko wrote:
"A. Pismo Clam" wrote in message
...

Loren wrote:

This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.
The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I
have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.
If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks



I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?


Electric drill with a 1" auger bit. Willow is a soft wood anyway. I've
drilled 1" holes in a 36" dia. Elm stump with a Ryobi 18 volt cordless.
I had to change the batteries more than usual, but it worked.


Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.






--
Bill
in Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, delete the double zeroes after @

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, but before, very very important, is to
drill and many deep holes in the stump as you can, and fill the holes with
it.

Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

-Did you know that dolphins are so intelligent that within only a few weeks
of captivity, they can train Americans to stand at the very edge of the
pool and throw them fish.

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

The bottle of roundup concentrate has instructions for using it full
strength.

"Chas Hurst" wrote:
"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

The bottle of roundup concentrate has instructions for using it full
strength.

I'd try painting it on the new growth full strength..willow's are tuff
stuff.

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.
SOME consumer products have instructions for use at full strength, and in
this case roundup does for extremely problem weeds/vegitation.
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at full
strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the earth,
and is WAY too concentrated.

"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the
earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills!

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the
earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills!
Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine and
take all my oil!

Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a try.
I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill off the
tree?

--
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