What happened to Miracle Grow potting soil? Thats what I would have used
until I was told to use sand or perlite. I am not mixing a big batch, just
enough to take a clipping from my dying Rose of Sharon and make a new one;
to do a switch in time. I am quite out of my element here, but I was told to
use sand or perlite, whatever it is or does, or why. I will need to go the
HomeDepot, and if n/a there, I'll travel a little further to a nursery.
Also I was told to use a few pots, with a few cuttings in each. I understand
increasing the chances of getting a good one with a greater number of pots,
but how can you use a few cuttings in each pot. I have black pot(s) 12" dia
x 12"H. How would I space 3 twigs in one pot to wait to see which is
good/best? A small circle all in the center, or 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 from one end,
in line? A 6"Dia circle in the center? Would you move them later? How can
you move it, dig it up, or make a trough and slide it? Would you pull 2 of
the 3, how long before you know to keep one and pull the others, I only need
one transplant? What if the good one is the side one? Isn't the point of
having a big pot having lots of room on all sides? Or does 1/3 over not
matter? Will I be waiting with three pot(s), with 1 best plant in each. I
think the required transplant height will require 4 years of total growth.

bent wrote:

[....]
I was told to
use sand or perlite, whatever it is or does, or why.
[....]

http://www.ask.com/web?q=what+is+per...=0&o=333&l=dir

"bent" wrote:
What happened to Miracle Grow potting soil? Thats what I would have used
until I was told to use sand or perlite. I am not mixing a big batch,
just enough to take a clipping from my dying Rose of Sharon and make a
new one; to do a switch in time. I am quite out of my element here, but I
was told to use sand or perlite, whatever it is or does, or why. I will
need to go the HomeDepot, and if n/a there, I'll travel a little further
to a nursery. Also I was told to use a few pots, with a few cuttings in
each. I understand increasing the chances of getting a good one with a
greater number of pots, but how can you use a few cuttings in each pot. I
have black pot(s) 12" dia x 12"H. How would I space 3 twigs in one pot to
wait to see which is good/best? A small circle all in the center, or 1/4,
2/4, 3/4 from one end, in line? A 6"Dia circle in the center? Would you
move them later? How can you move it, dig it up, or make a trough and
slide it? Would you pull 2 of the 3, how long before you know to keep one
and pull the others, I only need one transplant? What if the good one is
the side one? Isn't the point of having a big pot having lots of room on
all sides? Or does 1/3 over not matter? Will I be waiting with three
pot(s), with 1 best plant in each. I think the required transplant height
will require 4 years of total growth.

Maybe add some rootone to your recipes?

bent said:

What happened to Miracle Grow potting soil? Thats what I would have used
until I was told to use sand or perlite. I am not mixing a big batch, just
enough to take a clipping from my dying Rose of Sharon and make a new one;
to do a switch in time. I am quite out of my element here, but I was told to
use sand or perlite, whatever it is or does, or why. I will need to go the
HomeDepot, and if n/a there, I'll travel a little further to a nursery.

You want something that drains well. Peat-based potting soils (like MG)
will retain too much moisture, and could rot the cuttings or make them more
susceptable to damping off (google it, if you don't know what it means).
That's the "why". I prefer sand.

Also I was told to use a few pots, with a few cuttings in each. I understand
increasing the chances of getting a good one with a greater number of pots,
but how can you use a few cuttings in each pot.

Is your Hibiscus syriacus a clumping variety? That is, are there many
"trunks" coming out at ground level? If so, then you'll want to start
several cuttings in a pot.

I have black pot(s) 12" dia x 12"H.

That's a 2# (gallon) pot. That's a bit large for what you're wanting to do,
to start with. I would use a 4" pot to start. Then, when it becomes
root-bound, move it to a 1# pot. Once it becomes root-bound in that, it
would go to a 2# or 3# pot. Again, once it's root-bound, then it's ready to
go into the ground. Don't rush this, it takes time.

How would I space 3 twigs in one pot to wait to see which is good/best?

You're not doing it to 'wait and see which is good/best'. You're not going
to thin them out unless some of the cuttings die.

A small circle all in the center, or 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 from one end,
in line? A 6"Dia circle in the center?

Put 4-5 cuttings, spaced evenly, in the original pot (not something as
large as a 2#).

Would you move them later?

Not until they're root-bound.

How can you move it, dig it up, or make a trough and slide it?

The same as planting any other potted plant, in a larger container. Place
one hand across the soil level, supporting the entire mass. Turn the pot
completely upside down, so the plant slides out (DO NOT pull the plants
out, either from the top, or while it's upside down). If it won't slide,
gently squeeze the sides of the pot (while still supporting the plants),
until it slides out.

Would you pull 2 of
the 3, how long before you know to keep one and pull the others, I only need
one transplant?

If it's grown as a standard, then you'll thin to one cutting. If it's a
clumping variety, leave them all.

What if the good one is the side one? Isn't the point of
having a big pot having lots of room on all sides? Or does 1/3 over not
matter?

Don't over-think this, man. It's not rocket science.

Will I be waiting with three pot(s), with 1 best plant in each.

I rarely start one transplant, when it's going to be replacing a plant.
That's a bit risky. Hell, I rarely start one transplant of anything. If I
end up with more plants than I need, I can always find someone who wants
the extras.

I think the required transplant height will require 4 years of total growth.

Why do you think that? Where did you come up with that number?


As to the procedure for taking the cuttings...

The best method, for the plant you're trying to propagate, would be a
soft-wood cutting. this would be from THIS season's growth ONLY. This is
the green, soft part of the branch, near the tip. Avoid material with
flower buds if possible. Remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing
cuttings so the cutting¢s energy can be used in producing new roots rather
than flowers.

Early morning is the best time to take cuttings, because the plant is fully
turgid. It is important to keep the cuttings cool and moist until they are
stuck. An ice chest or dark plastic bag with wet paper towels may be used
to store cuttings. If there will be a delay in sticking cuttings, store
them in a plastic bag in your refrigerator.

While terminal parts of the stem are best, a long shoot can be divided into
several cuttings. Cuttings are generally 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sharp,
thin-bladed pocket knife or sharp pruning shears. If necessary, dip the
cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts
water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy
ones.

Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting. On
large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half to reduce
water loss and conserve space.

Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds can be a valuable tool in
stimulating rooting of some plants that might otherwise be difficult to
root. Prevent possible contamination of the entire supply of rooting
hormone by putting some in a separate container before treating cuttings.
Any material that remains after treatment should be discarded and not
returned to the original container. Be sure to tap the cuttings to remove
excess hormone when using a powder (rooting hormone also comes in a liquid
form, but it's more expensive).

Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half their length into the medium.
Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem (do not insert the cuttings
upside down). Make sure the buds are pointed up. Space cuttings just far
enough apart to allow all leaves to receive sunlight. Water again after
inserting the cuttings if the containers or frames are 3 or more inches in
depth. Cover the cuttings with plastic and place in indirect light. Avoid
direct sun. Keep the medium moist (NOT soaking wet), until the cuttings
have rooted. Rooting will be improved if the cuttings are misted on a
regular basis.

If you want to use hardwood cuttings, it's best to wait until the plant
goes dormant. The rest of the procedure is the same.

HTH
--

Eggs

-Thou shalt not weigh more than thy refrigerator.

"I have a 50 yr old purple Rose of Sharon planted in my front yard in
Toronto. It has a mossy green covering, and the whole thing is split at the
base into the dirt, snd even those branches are split, pinned with bolts,
and are dying and breaking off."

btw, whats the mossy stuff?


I was curious why there is branching at and into the ground, because of it,
the tree looks like it is split (like its been damaged) and maybe it is,
because it looks like one trunk was split into 3 or 4 branches down and into
the dirt, and the bark didn't grow back cover the insides vry well. And I
am curious if this will happen again, and if this complicates the clippings
process, or time, or choice of clippings. And if I have a choice. Why do
you say if it is a clumping variety, I should start several in a pot. Are
they clumping together (is each branch is a clipping that has mingled
together?). What would happen if I used a single in each pot (like 9 pots
instead of 3x3pots) - would I get the same final result by using the best in
eac scenario. Are you saying it takes mor ethan one clipping?

And why is someone saying several pots (w/ several in each pot)? Just
increasing the odds again?

I came up with 4 yrs. only b/c theres one in my neighbors sidewalk that
started itself that is about 6 foot high, and I can only remember it being
there for maybe 5 years. The dying? original is maybe 12 foot high, and I
can't see myself dropping in a tiny thing, and am only guessing. I am just
going by 6 feet in 5 years and dividing. No idea really. How long do you
think.

At any time before I transplant it into the yards' dirt, will I be changing
to soil other than the original (ie egHD perlite, or sand) from pot to pot.
To be honest I like the idea of using 12" pts, and not changing ever from
the beginning until its ready to transplant. I have 2 for sure, and I may
have another, or can get one more to make 3. Is this a problem?



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

SO; I just did a little reading, but still need some back to basics
My first task is to get the dirt: apparently HD has perlite, if not I could
go to a nearby nursery. Assuming they have both, would I use?:
100% perlite
100% coarse builders sand
a mix (& what %ages)

If I can I would just like to use the one and only pot(s) right up to
transplant, but in that case the soil would be the same right from the
beginning to the transplant time, or unless I re-used it, a waste of soil if
I had to change all the soil in the large pots. Is one pot/soil possible, or
am I supposed to put it into "soil" after at time, but before transplant
time. Its ok; I just don't have an eficiency or space limitation, and it
would be less fuss with single pot(s)/soils.

wrt the plastic greenhouse, is the top and everything compleltely closed off
, and if so how do I water?



btw, I have three (+1) 12"Diameter pots: Are these big enough to get to any
significant size?

12" H black plastic w/ 4 drain holes

10" H plastic w/ 4 drain holes

8" H ceramic w/ 1 drain holes

10" H ceramic w/ 0 drain holes



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

I do have a larger collection of smaller pots.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Does it take several cuttings to get one plant and is that always the same
as the original. Do you need pictures to answer this?

the only waste is the lack of pertinent information which I ask for but fail
to get, as usual. Who do you think you're stepping over in that imaginary
world. If I state something that makes no sense, its probly because the
answer hasn't been given yet, though probly been asked sweveral times here
and elsewhere.

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
bent said:

"I have a 50 yr old purple Rose of Sharon planted in my front yard
in
Toronto. It has a mossy green covering, and the whole thing is split at
the
base into the dirt, snd even those branches are split, pinned with bolts,
and are dying and breaking off."

btw, whats the mossy stuff?

Posting some pics to the web, and linking to them here, would be VERY
helpful. Pics of "the mossy stuff", the entire plant, a closeup of a
bloom,
a branch, the "split base", and a leaf, would be ideal.


I was curious why there is branching at and into the ground, because of
it,
the tree looks like it is split (like its been damaged) and maybe it is,
because it looks like one trunk was split into 3 or 4 branches down and
into
the dirt, and the bark didn't grow back cover the insides vry well. And
I
am curious if this will happen again, and if this complicates the
clippings
process, or time, or choice of clippings. And if I have a choice. Why
do
you say if it is a clumping variety, I should start several in a pot.
Are
they clumping together (is each branch is a clipping that has mingled
together?). What would happen if I used a single in each pot (like 9
pots
instead of 3x3pots) - would I get the same final result by using the best
in
eac scenario. Are you saying it takes mor ethan one clipping?

I'm saying that it depends on the cultivar. There are probably hundreds of
H. syriacus cultivars. Some grow more from a single trunk and some from
many smaller trunks. Again, pics would be helpful.


And why is someone saying several pots (w/ several in each pot)? Just
increasing the odds again?

If you only start one pot, the stock plant dies, and the cuttings don't
survive, you're screwed. Both have to get through one (more) winter.


I came up with 4 yrs. only b/c theres one in my neighbors sidewalk that
started itself that is about 6 foot high, and I can only remember it
being
there for maybe 5 years. The dying? original is maybe 12 foot high, and
I
can't see myself dropping in a tiny thing, and am only guessing. I am
just
going by 6 feet in 5 years and dividing. No idea really. How long do
you
think.

Is it the exact same cultivar? They're growth rates may be different. By
starting more cuttings in a single pot, the shrub will fill out more
quickly.


At any time before I transplant it into the yards' dirt, will I be
changing
to soil other than the original (ie egHD perlite, or sand) from pot to
pot.

The sand is only the rooting medium. Once it's developed roots, and it's
first potting up (from 4" to 1#), it goes into a well-draining, potting
mix. During this process, most of the sand will probably fall off the
roots, which is fine. The sand won't hold any elements or other nutrients,
the potting mix will. The plant's water needs will also increase, and
you'll need a medium that can hold more moisture.

To be honest I like the idea of using 12" pts, and not changing ever from
the beginning until its ready to transplant.

If you're going to turn this advice-seeking thread into another waste of
everyone's time (ignoring advice and requests for more info), as you did
with all of the lawn threads, say so now, please. I've little time to
waste
explaing each and every step (the "why's", etc.), only to have you ignore
the advice and do it "your way". If you already have a method in mind, and
you're set to use it, no matter what, then just go do it.

I have 2 for sure, and I may
have another, or can get one more to make 3. Is this a problem?

Yes. Find some 4" pots to start your cuttings.

[newsfeeds spam snipped] --- **** I hate that nsp

--

Eggs

-Half the people you know are below average.




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

well as usual, not you specifically, have given me the exact opposite
advise specifically as I got in a real cultivars forum. Better than
nothing.

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
bent said:

SO; I just did a little reading, but still need some back to basics
My first task is to get the dirt: apparently HD has perlite, if not I
could
go to a nearby nursery. Assuming they have both, would I use?:
100% perlite
100% coarse builders sand

Find something much finer than "course builders sand".


[...]

wrt the plastic greenhouse, is the top and everything compleltely closed
off
, and if so how do I water?

It's just a plastic bag to keep the humidity up. How difficult would it be
to just remove the bag to water? Good grief. Common sense, man.


btw, I have three (+1) 12"Diameter pots: Are these big enough to get to
any
significant size?


Save this one for the final pot-up:

12" H black plastic w/ 4 drain holes


This sounds like a 1#:

10" H plastic w/ 4 drain holes


Don't use either of these:

8" H ceramic w/ 1 drain holes

10" H ceramic w/ 0 drain holes


[newsfeeds spam snipped]

--
Eggs

-Did you know that dolphins are so intelligent that within only a few
weeks
of captivity, they can train Americans to stand at the very edge of the
pool and throw them fish.




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

bent said:

"I have a 50 yr old purple Rose of Sharon planted in my front yard in
Toronto. It has a mossy green covering, and the whole thing is split at the
base into the dirt, snd even those branches are split, pinned with bolts,
and are dying and breaking off."

btw, whats the mossy stuff?

Posting some pics to the web, and linking to them here, would be VERY
helpful. Pics of "the mossy stuff", the entire plant, a closeup of a bloom,
a branch, the "split base", and a leaf, would be ideal.


I was curious why there is branching at and into the ground, because of it,
the tree looks like it is split (like its been damaged) and maybe it is,
because it looks like one trunk was split into 3 or 4 branches down and into
the dirt, and the bark didn't grow back cover the insides vry well. And I
am curious if this will happen again, and if this complicates the clippings
process, or time, or choice of clippings. And if I have a choice. Why do
you say if it is a clumping variety, I should start several in a pot. Are
they clumping together (is each branch is a clipping that has mingled
together?). What would happen if I used a single in each pot (like 9 pots
instead of 3x3pots) - would I get the same final result by using the best in
eac scenario. Are you saying it takes mor ethan one clipping?

I'm saying that it depends on the cultivar. There are probably hundreds of
H. syriacus cultivars. Some grow more from a single trunk and some from
many smaller trunks. Again, pics would be helpful.


And why is someone saying several pots (w/ several in each pot)? Just
increasing the odds again?

If you only start one pot, the stock plant dies, and the cuttings don't
survive, you're screwed. Both have to get through one (more) winter.


I came up with 4 yrs. only b/c theres one in my neighbors sidewalk that
started itself that is about 6 foot high, and I can only remember it being
there for maybe 5 years. The dying? original is maybe 12 foot high, and I
can't see myself dropping in a tiny thing, and am only guessing. I am just
going by 6 feet in 5 years and dividing. No idea really. How long do you
think.

Is it the exact same cultivar? They're growth rates may be different. By
starting more cuttings in a single pot, the shrub will fill out more
quickly.


At any time before I transplant it into the yards' dirt, will I be changing
to soil other than the original (ie egHD perlite, or sand) from pot to pot.

The sand is only the rooting medium. Once it's developed roots, and it's
first potting up (from 4" to 1#), it goes into a well-draining, potting
mix. During this process, most of the sand will probably fall off the
roots, which is fine. The sand won't hold any elements or other nutrients,
the potting mix will. The plant's water needs will also increase, and
you'll need a medium that can hold more moisture.

To be honest I like the idea of using 12" pts, and not changing ever from
the beginning until its ready to transplant.

If you're going to turn this advice-seeking thread into another waste of
everyone's time (ignoring advice and requests for more info), as you did
with all of the lawn threads, say so now, please. I've little time to waste
explaing each and every step (the "why's", etc.), only to have you ignore
the advice and do it "your way". If you already have a method in mind, and
you're set to use it, no matter what, then just go do it.

I have 2 for sure, and I may
have another, or can get one more to make 3. Is this a problem?

Yes. Find some 4" pots to start your cuttings.

[newsfeeds spam snipped] --- **** I hate that nsp

--

Eggs

-Half the people you know are below average.

bent said:

SO; I just did a little reading, but still need some back to basics
My first task is to get the dirt: apparently HD has perlite, if not I could
go to a nearby nursery. Assuming they have both, would I use?:
100% perlite
100% coarse builders sand

Find something much finer than "course builders sand".


[...]

wrt the plastic greenhouse, is the top and everything compleltely closed off
, and if so how do I water?

It's just a plastic bag to keep the humidity up. How difficult would it be
to just remove the bag to water? Good grief. Common sense, man.


btw, I have three (+1) 12"Diameter pots: Are these big enough to get to any
significant size?


Save this one for the final pot-up:

12" H black plastic w/ 4 drain holes


This sounds like a 1#:

10" H plastic w/ 4 drain holes


Don't use either of these:

8" H ceramic w/ 1 drain holes

10" H ceramic w/ 0 drain holes


[newsfeeds spam snipped]

--
Eggs

-Did you know that dolphins are so intelligent that within only a few weeks
of captivity, they can train Americans to stand at the very edge of the
pool and throw them fish.

bent said:

Does it take several cuttings to get one plant and is that always the same
as the original. Do you need pictures to answer this?

the only waste is the lack of pertinent information which I ask for but fail
to get, as usual. Who do you think you're stepping over in that imaginary
world. If I state something that makes no sense, its probly because the
answer hasn't been given yet, though probly been asked sweveral times here
and elsewhere.

Ok. Got ya. Go **** yourself. =)

*woogiewave*

--

Eggs

How can there be self-help "groups"?

that's ok, I'm not gonna use cuttings now anyway. What do you call 'em?

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote Go **** yourself. =)



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Well come on guys, what do you call 'em; the "buds" you take off the tree
and put in soil that then grows into a plant. I was told to wait a little
while longer so they turn a bit brown or something. Do you need a picture?
That way I won't need Dr. Mengella.

"bent" wrote in message
...
that's ok, I'm not gonna use cuttings now anyway. What do you call 'em?

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote Go **** yourself. =)



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
=----




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

With your attitude, why would anybody answer?

bent wrote:
Well come on guys, what do you call 'em; the "buds" you take off the tree
and put in soil that then grows into a plant. I was told to wait a little
while longer so they turn a bit brown or something. Do you need a picture?
That way I won't need Dr. Mengella.

"bent" wrote in message
...
that's ok, I'm not gonna use cuttings now anyway. What do you call 'em?

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote Go **** yourself. =)



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
=----




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----