Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

wrote:
Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

I have a new craftsman also, it to has a lot of tow in, I have been back to
Sears to look at the floor models, they all appear to be the same.
I think your toe in is normal, and it helps with your turn radius.

I'm sure one of regulars will chime up with advice, lookout for 10' pine
stick jokes, (long story)

Clark

On 9/25/2007 3:00 PM, Clark wrote:
wrote:
Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

I have a new craftsman also, it to has a lot of tow in, I have been back to
Sears to look at the floor models, they all appear to be the same.
I think your toe in is normal, and it helps with your turn radius.

I'm sure one of regulars will chime up with advice, lookout for 10' pine
stick jokes, (long story)

Clark



We don't need no stinkin' 10 /foot/ pine stick jokes. (The 10" ones are
plenty long enough.)

--
Ted
I wasn't born in Texas but
I got back here as soon as I could


There is an island of opportunity in the middle of every
difficulty. Miss that, though, and you're pretty much doomed.

xPosTech wrote:

[....]
I'm sure one of regulars will chime up with advice, lookout for 10' pine
stick jokes, (long story)

Clark



We don't need no stinkin' 10 /foot/ pine stick jokes. (The 10" ones are
plenty long enough.)

when to shift and when not to shift was never the question...

key

LOL

wrote in message
ups.com...
Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.


So did you bend those tie rods taking the tractor off your pickup - or were
you trying to squeeze it between two stumps ? Or did you try to drive over
a 10" pine stick and it kicked up and bent the tie rod ?

On Sep 25, 9:02 pm, "Srgnt Billko" wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

So did you bend those tie rods taking the tractor off your pickup - or were
you trying to squeeze it between two stumps ? Or did you try to drive over
a 10" pine stick and it kicked up and bent the tie rod ?

How come everyone seems to know about the 10" pine sticks but me?
Why the hell isn't that mentioned in the obsessive first 43 pages of
Safety warnings in the owner's manual?
I got a whole field of 10" pine sticks and now I'm being told my
garden tractor can't mow them?
That's it. I'm getting my money back.

The tie rods are bent by design, in order to clear the passage for
some attachments or a front belt, I guess. I figured they only need
1/4" more, so straightening them which will make them deviate from
their path very little.

Gonna kerosene those pine sticks to hell tomorrow. I'll keep you
posted.

jeannot wrote:

Srgnt Billko wrote:
jeannot wrote:



Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well, I'm
very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a line
from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50 feet, which
is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels will
wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning the extra
fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in the long run,
but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas and
Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the web. I
looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as well as on
the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

So did you bend those tie rods taking the tractor off your pickup - or were
you trying to squeeze it between two stumps ? Or did you try to drive over
a 10" pine stick and it kicked up and bent the tie rod ?

How come everyone seems to know about the 10" pine sticks but me?

http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q...=2007&safe=off

Why the hell isn't that mentioned in the obsessive first 43 pages of
Safety warnings in the owner's manual?
I got a whole field of 10" pine sticks and now I'm being told my
garden tractor can't mow them?
That's it. I'm getting my money back.

good move on the money back while you can.

think about it. you bought a machine built by the low bidder
who did not have to put their name on it and will never hear
from anyone who hit a pine stick....



The tie rods are bent by design, in order to clear the passage for
some attachments or a front belt, I guess. I figured they only need
1/4" more, so straightening them which will make them deviate from
their path very little.

on each end of the tie rod there is a ball joint. the ball
joint is threaded onto the tie rob and set with a set nut.
the tie rob is lengthen or shortened by screwing in or out
of the ball joints. before you can make the adjustment you'll
need to disconnect the ball joint from the wheel.

but, rather than do that I'd get my money back then go and make
the purchase of a machine where the manufacturer of the machine
thought enough of the machine to place their name on it.


Gonna kerosene those pine sticks to hell tomorrow. I'll keep you
posted.

xPosTech wrote:
On 9/25/2007 3:00 PM, Clark wrote:
wrote:
Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well,
I'm very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a
line from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50
feet, which is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels
will wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning
the extra fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in
the long run, but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas
and Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the
web. I looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as
well as on the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

I have a new craftsman also, it to has a lot of tow in, I have been
back to Sears to look at the floor models, they all appear to be the
same. I think your toe in is normal, and it helps with your turn radius.

I'm sure one of regulars will chime up with advice, lookout for
10' pine stick jokes, (long story)

Clark



We don't need no stinkin' 10 /foot/ pine stick jokes. (The 10" ones
are plenty long enough.)

Maybe subconsciously I'm trying to re-write history?

Did I mention the new mower is fantastic?
I'm telling ya, the first mower being bad was a fluke

Clark

wrote:
On Sep 25, 9:02 pm, "Srgnt Billko" wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



Just took delivery of the tractor (a 28750) and it runs very well,
I'm very happy with it.

One thing though, when I stand in front of the tractor the front
wheels clearly show an excessive toe in. I'd say if you'd draw a
line from each wheel forward, the lines would cross at about 50
feet, which is pretty bad.

I know that in the long term, the forces generated on the wheels
will wear the bearings, tires and steering system, not mentioning
the extra fuel consumption. Not sure it will damage the grass in
the long run, but it's certainly not a good thing for it.

The steering system is probably identical on the large Husqvarnas
and Cratfsman, and Husqvarna publishes their owners manuals on the
web. I looked for a toe adjustment of any type in the manual as
well as on the tractor and could not find one. Everything's fixed.

One possibility is the two drag links that go from the Gear sector
plate to the spindles. Those are already bent in two places, and
unbending them a bit would push the toe out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

So did you bend those tie rods taking the tractor off your pickup -
or were you trying to squeeze it between two stumps ? Or did you
try to drive over a 10" pine stick and it kicked up and bent the tie
rod ?

How come everyone seems to know about the 10" pine sticks but me?
Why the hell isn't that mentioned in the obsessive first 43 pages of
Safety warnings in the owner's manual?
I got a whole field of 10" pine sticks and now I'm being told my
garden tractor can't mow them?
That's it. I'm getting my money back.

The tie rods are bent by design, in order to clear the passage for
some attachments or a front belt, I guess. I figured they only need
1/4" more, so straightening them which will make them deviate from
their path very little.

Gonna kerosene those pine sticks to hell tomorrow. I'll keep you
posted.

The original post that I will never live down, lol
"Clark" wrote in message
...
OK, here is the story.
I was mowing the lawn, I hit a stick (pine), it bent the right blade AND
the bent blade cut into the mowing deck (about 2.5 inches)
I think this was a freak accident, but??

The Sears guy is coming out to look at it Sat.
I've already pounded the metal back in place, and straighten the blade
enough to mow the rest of the property, it just needs a spot weld now
(oh and at least one blade (or some hammering). Three hours on the new
mower.. ugh
When that blade hit the mowing deck it stopped the engine cold!! (it
started fine and I've run it for about 1 hour so I think it's fine) "no
strange noises"

"The Pics"
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4z1ku2q
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5z5n9mt
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5y9zktd
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4taxzyd
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=62dro0p

anything I should bring up with the Sears Guy?
thanks

Clark

on each end of the tie rod there is a ball joint. the ball
joint is threaded onto the tie rob and set with a set nut.
the tie rob is lengthen or shortened by screwing in or out
of the ball joints. before you can make the adjustment you'll
need to disconnect the ball joint from the wheel.

I just unscrewed the joint from the wheel spindle, and found no
adjustment. The axis of the bolt is vertical, so even trying to set
the nut ta a different position has no effect.

but, rather than do that I'd getmymoney back then go and make
the purchase of a machine where the manufacturer of the machine
thought enough of the machine to place their name on it.

Of course I was not serious about getting my money back. I got a 26hp
(with the Briggs Extended Life Service), 54" cut with the beefy K66
Tuff Torq and a 10-gauge deck for $1999. They can keep my money. If
the worst problem is the alignment, I'll deal with it with a wide
grin.

It appears I will have to take the rods out and straighten them. I'll
keep you posted on how it went.

Thanks for the help and entertainment so far.

Problem solved, tractor aligned.

First, I needed a way to measure the toe. I installed a pair of 48"
steel rods to the outside of the front wheels, making sure that they
touch the front and rear of the rim. With the wheels perfectly
aligned, they should be parallel and have the same distance between
them next to the wheels and at their end. Initially, my suspicions
were confirmed: 37.25 inches at the wheel, 35 inches 40" further. 2.25
inches in 40" is 3.2 degrees.

I thought I should make my alignment easily adjustable, so bending the
rods was out. The steering shaft with a gear at its bottom and the
steering plate gear are held on a steel plate that is screwed to the
frame. That plate ensures a correct gap between the two gears and is
held in place to the frame by 4 screws. A bit of geometry convinced me
that if that plate could move forward by only 1/4", it would provide
me with plenty of toe adjustment range.

So I dismantled the steering shaft, the two links at the spindles and
took out the 4 screws that hold the plate to the frame. I widened the
4 holes in the plate horizontally towards the back (the plate needs to
move forward) by about 1/4". I put everything back together and left
the 4 screws loose by about 1 turn. I then verified that I had a large
play in the toe by playing with the two steel rods that were attached
to the wheels. I made sure the distance between the rods read 37.25
inches both at the wheel and at their end and that whatever play there
was in the system was creating a toe in. I then tightened the 4
screws. That way, while in motion the backward force would keep the
toe at the end of its play and the wheels parallel.

wrote:
Problem solved, tractor aligned.

First, I needed a way to measure the toe. I installed a pair of 48"
steel rods to the outside of the front wheels, making sure that they
touch the front and rear of the rim. With the wheels perfectly
aligned, they should be parallel and have the same distance between
them next to the wheels and at their end. Initially, my suspicions
were confirmed: 37.25 inches at the wheel, 35 inches 40" further. 2.25
inches in 40" is 3.2 degrees.

I thought I should make my alignment easily adjustable, so bending the
rods was out. The steering shaft with a gear at its bottom and the
steering plate gear are held on a steel plate that is screwed to the
frame. That plate ensures a correct gap between the two gears and is
held in place to the frame by 4 screws. A bit of geometry convinced me
that if that plate could move forward by only 1/4", it would provide
me with plenty of toe adjustment range.

So I dismantled the steering shaft, the two links at the spindles and
took out the 4 screws that hold the plate to the frame. I widened the
4 holes in the plate horizontally towards the back (the plate needs to
move forward) by about 1/4". I put everything back together and left
the 4 screws loose by about 1 turn. I then verified that I had a large
play in the toe by playing with the two steel rods that were attached
to the wheels. I made sure the distance between the rods read 37.25
inches both at the wheel and at their end and that whatever play there
was in the system was creating a toe in. I then tightened the 4
screws. That way, while in motion the backward force would keep the
toe at the end of its play and the wheels parallel.




Something I don't understand. If this is new, and you think it isn't
right, why do you void what little warranty these things have by making
"repairs" yourself? Why do you not go back to the dealer you bought it
from and have them fix it right. It may not even need "fixed" and it may
be that the toe in is correct for that tractor. I sure wouldn't be
bending anything.
Tinkerers.

On Sep 26, 4:26 pm, wrote:
wrote:
Problem solved,tractoraligned.

First, I needed a way to measure the toe. I installed a pair of 48"
steel rods to the outside of the front wheels, making sure that they
touch the front and rear of the rim. With the wheels perfectly
aligned, they should be parallel and have the same distance between
them next to the wheels and at their end. Initially,mysuspicions
were confirmed: 37.25 inches at the wheel, 35 inches 40" further. 2.25
inches in 40" is 3.2 degrees.

I thought I should makemyalignmenteasily adjustable, so bending the
rods was out. The steering shaft with a gear at its bottom and the
steering plate gear are held on a steel plate that is screwed to the
frame. That plate ensures a correct gap between the two gears and is
held in place to the frame by 4 screws. A bit of geometry convinced me
that if that plate could move forward by only 1/4", it would provide
me with plenty of toe adjustment range.

So I dismantled the steering shaft, the two links at the spindles and
took out the 4 screws that hold the plate to the frame. I widened the
4 holes in the plate horizontally towards the back (the plate needs to
move forward) by about 1/4". I put everything back together and left
the 4 screws loose by about 1 turn. I then verified that I had a large
play in the toe by playing with the two steel rods that were attached
to the wheels. I made sure the distance between the rods read 37.25
inches both at the wheel and at their end and that whatever play there
was in the system was creating a toe in. I then tightened the 4
screws. That way, while in motion the backward force would keep the
toe at the end of its play and the wheels parallel.

Something I don't understand. If this is new, and you think it isn't
right, why do you void what little warranty these things have by making
"repairs" yourself? Why do you not go back to the dealer you bought it
from and have them fix it right. It may not even need "fixed" and it may
be that the toe in is correct for thattractor. I sure wouldn't be
bending anything.
Tinkerers.

I will shed some light on this for you: The dealer/repair shop will
say it's normal. And the reason why they will say that has nothing to
do with the problem at hand, and everything to do with conservation of
energy on their part. There is no toe adjustment on the tractor.
Hence, they cannot fix the excessive toe, and I would not trust them
to even try. They will offer my money back. I don't want money, I want
a tractor. Which is consistent with me buying it.

If they void the warranty on my engine, deck or transmission because I
fixed the alignment, my lawyer will explain to them how warranties
work and why it is a very bad ideeyer for them to pursue that
attitude.

As you can read above, my tractor now has an adjustable front wheel
alignment, and is properly aligned as a result. I did not bend
anything, just enlarged four holes and made the tractor better.

Considering 3.25 degrees as an acceptable angle between two wheels is
a slap in the face of physics. If one's car had that much toe in, one
would probably go (at 5 mpg) through a set of tires in less than 100
miles, assuming one wouldn't get a frame bender before.

On 9/26/2007 4:19 PM, wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:26 pm, wrote:
wrote:
Problem solved,tractoraligned.
First, I needed a way to measure the toe. I installed a pair of 48"
steel rods to the outside of the front wheels, making sure that they
touch the front and rear of the rim. With the wheels perfectly
aligned, they should be parallel and have the same distance between
them next to the wheels and at their end. Initially,mysuspicions
were confirmed: 37.25 inches at the wheel, 35 inches 40" further. 2.25
inches in 40" is 3.2 degrees.
I thought I should makemyalignmenteasily adjustable, so bending the
rods was out. The steering shaft with a gear at its bottom and the
steering plate gear are held on a steel plate that is screwed to the
frame. That plate ensures a correct gap between the two gears and is
held in place to the frame by 4 screws. A bit of geometry convinced me
that if that plate could move forward by only 1/4", it would provide
me with plenty of toe adjustment range.
So I dismantled the steering shaft, the two links at the spindles and
took out the 4 screws that hold the plate to the frame. I widened the
4 holes in the plate horizontally towards the back (the plate needs to
move forward) by about 1/4". I put everything back together and left
the 4 screws loose by about 1 turn. I then verified that I had a large
play in the toe by playing with the two steel rods that were attached
to the wheels. I made sure the distance between the rods read 37.25
inches both at the wheel and at their end and that whatever play there
was in the system was creating a toe in. I then tightened the 4
screws. That way, while in motion the backward force would keep the
toe at the end of its play and the wheels parallel.
Something I don't understand. If this is new, and you think it isn't
right, why do you void what little warranty these things have by making
"repairs" yourself? Why do you not go back to the dealer you bought it
from and have them fix it right. It may not even need "fixed" and it may
be that the toe in is correct for thattractor. I sure wouldn't be
bending anything.
Tinkerers.

I will shed some light on this for you: The dealer/repair shop will
say it's normal. And the reason why they will say that has nothing to
do with the problem at hand, and everything to do with conservation of
energy on their part. There is no toe adjustment on the tractor.
Hence, they cannot fix the excessive toe, and I would not trust them
to even try. They will offer my money back. I don't want money, I want
a tractor. Which is consistent with me buying it.

If they void the warranty on my engine, deck or transmission because I
fixed the alignment, my lawyer will explain to them how warranties
work and why it is a very bad ideeyer for them to pursue that
attitude.

As you can read above, my tractor now has an adjustable front wheel
alignment, and is properly aligned as a result. I did not bend
anything, just enlarged four holes and made the tractor better.

Considering 3.25 degrees as an acceptable angle between two wheels is
a slap in the face of physics. If one's car had that much toe in, one
would probably go (at 5 mpg) through a set of tires in less than 100
miles, assuming one wouldn't get a frame bender before.


I would imagine now that it's fixed, it will go around those pine sticks
all on its own.

--
Ted
I wasn't born in Texas but
I got back here as soon as I could


Luck can't last a lifetime unless you die young.

I would imagine now that it's fixed, it will go around those pine sticks
all on its own.

Ah, yeah, the pine sticks. Well, it's the damnest thing. I was putting
my tools away after the job was done, and I heard the sound of an
engine starting and a loud screeching sound. All that was left of the
tractor were two skid marks on the pavement. It then started getting
really overcast, but there was not a cloud in the sky minutes before.
Then I heard a horrible sound that had been going on for a few seconds
but I guess my brain blocked it until my eyes saw the large cloud of
reddish dust. I ran towards the field but could not see a foot ahead
of me. Then the sound stopped. I swear it lasted less than a minute.
After the dust had dissipated, there lied in front of me a pine stick-
less landscape. No tractor in sight. Came back to the garage. There it
was in exactly the same spot, engine stopped, with the tick-tick-tick
sound typical of a hot engine cooling down. I may have been its way to
thank me, but a trust was broken that will take a lot of time to heal.