I battled grubs last year and applied the recommended chems and now
the remaining grass seems OK. I've dug up all the dead grass and
roots and softened the soil to about 6-8 inches.

I plan on trying Scotts new coated seed but I was wondering what other
chems/fertilizer I should mix in before laying the seen down?

I live in central/eastern Connecticut.

Thanks

On May 7, 10:13*pm, bobmct wrote:
I battled grubs last year and applied the recommended chems and now
the remaining grass seems OK. *I've dug up all the dead grass and
roots and softened the soil to about 6-8 inches.

I plan on trying Scotts new coated seed but I was wondering what other
chems/fertilizer I should mix in before laying the seen down?

I live in central/eastern Connecticut.

Thanks

Get a bag of starter fertilizer and apply it at the listed rate. It
has NPK, but is lower in nitrogen and higher in PK, to help develop
roots. Any brand will do, no need to pay for a name brand.

You're also way behind schedule. You should have done this a month
ago. Or at least a week ago to take advantage of all the rain.
Make sure you keep it watered, including during the stress of July/
August. The extra month to get some roots down is very important.

In article
,
wrote:

On May 7, 10:13*pm, bobmct wrote:
I battled grubs last year and applied the recommended chems and now
the remaining grass seems OK. *I've dug up all the dead grass and
roots and softened the soil to about 6-8 inches.

I plan on trying Scotts new coated seed but I was wondering what other
chems/fertilizer I should mix in before laying the seen down?

I live in central/eastern Connecticut.

Thanks

Get a bag of starter fertilizer and apply it at the listed rate. It
has NPK, but is lower in nitrogen and higher in PK, to help develop
roots. Any brand will do, no need to pay for a name brand.

I have a 25 year old lawn that is starting to die back despite
fertilizing and aerating over the years. Would a round with starter
fertilizer help any?

--
"Distracting a politician from governing
is like distracting a bear from eating your baby."

--PJ O'Rourke

In article ,
Steve wrote:

Perhaps but only a soil test could really could answer your question. It
may be acidic and in need of lime more than anything.. that will really
wake up turfgrass and make it respond to food. Be aware sweetening the soil
is a slow process and requires more product (lime) than just fertilizing.

Okay. Is this something I get and do myself, or do I have to have
somebody come out and do it for me? If the latter, who is the type of
person I should be looking for?
Thanks.

--
"Distracting a politician from governing
is like distracting a bear from eating your baby."

--PJ O'Rourke

In article ,
Steve wrote:



You can purchase a 'home test kit' from your local garden store that will
be a fair indicator of your soil PH and nutrient (follow the instructions
closely).

Otherwise you can send off a soil sample to a lab for a nominal fee, this
one is usually more accurate than the home test kit.

Have you applied any lime recently?

Never in 25 years. I am sorta ticked because I have been having the
yard service out on service calls for the last 4 years and they never
even suggested testing or lime.

--
"Distracting a politician from governing
is like distracting a bear from eating your baby."

--PJ O'Rourke

In article ,
Steve wrote:


I'm not saying PH is the trouble you're having with your turf not
responding but, I wouldn't discount it either.

Who do I talk to about the soil sample? I was thinking about doing the
garden center kit for a screen, but then I'd need to do the soil sample
to put a finer point on a positive and to look for other things on a
negative. Seemed like a waste to try the garden center kit.

--
"Distracting a politician from governing
is like distracting a bear from eating your baby."

--PJ O'Rourke

"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Steve wrote:


I'm not saying PH is the trouble you're having with your turf not
responding but, I wouldn't discount it either.

Who do I talk to about the soil sample?

Where do you live? Or google your state about soil testing.

You''ll need the instructions on how to sample and send it.

On May 8, 4:04*pm, "Steve" wrote:
"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message

... In article ,
Steve wrote:

I'm not saying PH is the trouble you're having with your turf not
responding but, I wouldn't discount it either.

*Who do I talk to about the soil sample?

Where do you live? Or google your state about soil testing.

You''ll need the instructions on how to sample and send it.


Some states have county agicultural services that provide soil test
services for about $15. Lesco, if there is one near you, does too.

But the kits you can buy online or at garden centers work fine for
testing PH. I would not rely on them for anything else. You can
also use a ph test kit for spas/pools. Just put about a 1/4 of a
tube worth of soil in it, then add distilled water and the test
chemical.

A PH around 6.5 is the target.

Starter fertilizer isn't going to do much to rejuvenate a 25 year old
lawn with problems. If you have fescues for example, the plants don't
spread to form new ones. What's there can expand and grow larger,
but if it;s taken a big hit and is on the decline, best to either
overseed or kill it and start over in the Fall

In article
,
wrote:

Starter fertilizer isn't going to do much to rejuvenate a 25 year old
lawn with problems. If you have fescues for example, the plants don't
spread to form new ones. What's there can expand and grow larger,
but if it;s taken a big hit and is on the decline, best to either
overseed or kill it and start over in the Fall
I'll probably overseed it in the Fall. Now is probably a little late
in Indiana? ALso , the grass is all sod, if that makes any differenc.

--
"Distracting a politician from governing
is like distracting a bear from eating your baby."

--PJ O'Rourke