On May 24, 9:57*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.


I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition. Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a replacement
diaphragm for it.

Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same carb.

On Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:48:34 -0700 (PDT), muzician21
wrote:

On May 24, 9:57*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.


I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition. Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a replacement
diaphragm for it.

Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same carb.

Check here for a starting place.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/buy/

A local shop might just have the parts you need.

muzician21 wrote:

On May 24, 9:57 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.

I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition. Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a replacement
diaphragm for it.

There are lots of parts for the pulsa jets on ebay.

Your problem is the cold starting mechanism and that is what you should be
looking at. What does your carb have? Does it have a primer bulb or a choke? If
it has a choke what kind of choke?

-jim





Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same carb.

muzician21 wrote:
On May 24, 9:57 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.


I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition. Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a replacement
diaphragm for it.

Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same carb.

You need a 391681 diaphragm. Any lawnmower shop will have them in stock.
It's probably THE fastest selling B&S part.
Here is where you can get it on line -
http://www.theoempartsstore.com/stor...productid=2496

By the way that's a 3.5 hp not 3.0 as your subject line says.

--
Art

jim wrote:


There are lots of parts for the pulsa jets on ebay.

Your problem is the cold starting mechanism and that is what you should be
looking at. What does your carb have? Does it have a primer bulb or a choke? If
it has a choke what kind of choke?

-jim

If you know enough to know it is a pulsa-jet then you ought to also know
the choke is vacuum operated. Of course that doesn't make a bit of
difference to his problem. He needs to replace the diaphragm and likely
clean the screens on the fuel pickup tubes. The diaphragm is both the
fuel pump and operates the choke.

--
Art

On Jun 3, 9:13*pm, Art wrote:

Here is where you can get it on line -http://www.theoempartsstore.com/store/product.php?productid=2496


I appreciate it.


By the way that's a 3.5 hp not 3.0 as your subject line says.


Yeah, I discovered that looking at the stamping on the side. The decal
on the top is long obliterated.

Since the engine starts on a splash of gas, that suggests
choke problems, or bad gasket between the carb and the
engine. I've worked on a couple of motors which had NO
gasket between the carb and the engine. The outside air
comes in through the space, and the choke doesn't work
properly.

Been a while since I ordered any Briggs parts, I don't know
of any online places.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"muzician21" wrote in message
...
On May 24, 9:57 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it
going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.


I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb
before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull
than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it
started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition.
Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a
replacement
diaphragm for it.

Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older
B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local
places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going
by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same
carb.

I got a new diaphragm, but looking at the old diaphragm, it looks to
be intact and in good shape. The material still seems pliable, I held
it up to a light and can't find any breaks in it, including where the
choke plate rod is attached.

The longer of the two pickup tubes had a fair amount of crud on the
screen, which I've cleaned off. Gonna put it back together with the
old diaphragm and see if it starts any easier with that pickup cleaned
off. If it does, I'll store the new diaphragm in the refrigerator for
future use.

And why are there two pickup tubes and why are they different lengths?

Oren wrote:
On Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:48:34 -0700 (PDT), muzician21
wrote:

On May 24, 9:57 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Please let us know how things work out. If you get it going,
or not. Either way, please write again. That way, we can
learn also.

I tried pouring about a tablespoon or so of gas in the carb before
starting and it fired up immediately, much easier to pull than I ever
recall it being. Couldn't believe how silky smooth it started.
Apparently not a thing wrong with the solid state ignition. Apparently
it's the cold fuel delivery issue. Looking into a replacement
diaphragm for it.

Anyone have a suggestion for online parts houses for older B&S stuff?

The model on this carb is 092908 0571 01. One of the local places that
carries Snapper had a listing for 092908 0571 99 which going by the
exploded line drawings on his system looks to be the same carb.

Check here for a starting place.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/buy/

A local shop might just have the parts you need.


Also:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/sma...ines_index.cfm

"muzician21" wrote in message
...
I got a new diaphragm, but looking at the old diaphragm, it looks to
be intact and in good shape. The material still seems pliable, I held
it up to a light and can't find any breaks in it, including where the
choke plate rod is attached.

##### Look... When this sort of thing happens, most of us want to fix it,
not to analyze it. I have had it happen lots of times over the years, and
it
is usually because of crud buildup in the fuel and/or the diaphragm. I have
found that you save time by cleaning out the tank, cleaning the carb, and
replacing the diaphragm. You can do this in a half hour in most cases.
The diaphragm, IIRC, is not a ballbuster in price.



The longer of the two pickup tubes had a fair amount of crud on the
screen, which I've cleaned off.

##### And this is also not unusual, especially when one has starting
problems.

Gonna put it back together with the
old diaphragm and see if it starts any easier with that pickup cleaned
off. If it does, I'll store the new diaphragm in the refrigerator for
future use.

#### You must like to work on these engines.
I normally keep one or two of the diaphragms around. But I wouldnt put an
old
one back in for anything. It is a waste of time to fiddlefart with this
unless
you have a lot more expensive diaphragm that I am accustomed to buying.
Or have a lot of time on your hands

muzician21 wrote:

I got a new diaphragm, but looking at the old diaphragm, it looks to
be intact and in good shape. The material still seems pliable, I held
it up to a light and can't find any breaks in it, including where the
choke plate rod is attached.


The diaphragm was always good. You never had any symptoms that indicated a bad
diaphragm.

When you fill the tank all the way to the top the diaphragm isn't even needed
because on this style carb it is only really needed when the fuel starts to drop
below full.

Your problem is the choke is not closing. There is a spring that closes the
choke. The spring may be broken or missing. The diaphragm pulls the choke open
once the engine is running. If you had holes in the diaphragm your symptoms
would be the opposite - you would be getting too much gas as it would be sucking
gas in thru the holes.


The longer of the two pickup tubes had a fair amount of crud on the
screen, which I've cleaned off. Gonna put it back together with the
old diaphragm and see if it starts any easier with that pickup cleaned
off. If it does, I'll store the new diaphragm in the refrigerator for
future use.

And why are there two pickup tubes and why are they different lengths?


One tube (the longer) goes down to the bottom of the tank the other goes in a
small reservoir. Part of the diaphragm is the fuel pump that pumps gas up into
this reservoir (there are two flaps that act as pump valves). the gas in the
reservoir stays at a constant level because what ever extra is pumped in just
overflows and runs back into the tank. When the tank is full then the reservoir
is also full so no pumping is needed until the fuel level drops down.
The small tube feeds the main jet which controls the air fuel mixture. That
mixture is adjustable with the threaded needle valve.

-jim

The longer one pumps too much gas. The flow of gas keeps a
small basin (in the fuel tank) full. The short tube supplies
the gas to the carb. By keeping the small basin (at top of
the tank) full, the engine always has the same distance of
lift for the fuel, even when the tank is nearly empty.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"muzician21" wrote in message
...
I got a new diaphragm, but looking at the old diaphragm, it
looks to
be intact and in good shape. The material still seems
pliable, I held
it up to a light and can't find any breaks in it, including
where the
choke plate rod is attached.

The longer of the two pickup tubes had a fair amount of crud
on the
screen, which I've cleaned off. Gonna put it back together
with the
old diaphragm and see if it starts any easier with that
pickup cleaned
off. If it does, I'll store the new diaphragm in the
refrigerator for
future use.

And why are there two pickup tubes and why are they
different lengths?

On Jun 4, 5:24*pm, "HLS" wrote:
"muzician21" wrote in message

...

I got a new diaphragm, but looking at the old diaphragm, it looks to
be intact and in good shape. The material still seems pliable, I held
it up to a light and can't find any breaks in it, including where the
choke plate rod is attached.

##### Look... When this sort of thing happens, most of us want to fix it,
not to analyze it. *


I wouldn't think the two would be mutually exclusive.


#### You must like to work on these engines.


To me there's a recreational aspect to it, absolutely.


I normally keep one or two of the diaphragms around. * But I wouldnt put an
old
one back in for anything. *It is a waste of time to fiddlefart with this


I don't like tossing out perfectly good parts and if I can get more
lifespan out of a part I'm all for it. Learning something and
troubleshooting are also part of the goal. If I just slap a bunch of
pieces on, even if it works I don't really learn what was causing the
problem.

muzician21 wrote:


I don't like tossing out perfectly good parts and if I can get more
lifespan out of a part I'm all for it.

There ARE no "perfectly good parts" on an 80s vintage Pulsa-Jet
carburetor :-/

The old Vacu-Jet worked a lot better, but didn't have the "automatic"
(automatically applies exactly the wrong amount of choke every time)
choke feature I guess.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
muzician21 wrote:


I don't like tossing out perfectly good parts and if I can get more
lifespan out of a part I'm all for it.

There ARE no "perfectly good parts" on an 80s vintage Pulsa-Jet carburetor
:-/

The old Vacu-Jet worked a lot better, but didn't have the "automatic"
(automatically applies exactly the wrong amount of choke every time) choke
feature I guess.

A diaphragm that has been in service for some considerable time, then
is taken out and allowed to dry, might work a while longer, but....
if you want to mow the yard or till the garden, it is foolish to go in and
clean the carburetor and not install new elastomer parts, IMHO