Questions
 

I am taking over my own lawn work after deciding that I could kill off
my 25 y/o sod yard at least as efficiently (and much cheaper) than my
lawn service. Being an newbie, I have some questions.
In Central Indiana, when should I put down the fertilizer (and
what kind), the weed killer (I prefer granular but could do liquid if
there is any consensus one is better than the other)? I am leaning
toward fertilizing and then weed killing. Any real reason to do it in
two steps? How much time between the two?

I am thinking about doing some reseeding. Currently I am considering
just broadcasting the seed. Does that impact on the timing of the
fertilizer and weed killer.
The area is mostly clay and I am told the original developer sold off
most of the top soil. Over about the last five or six years, I have seen
the sod markedly become thinner and thinner to the point where there are
now bald spots. However, this hasn't been terribly consistent with some
areas that I don't have to mow but every 2 weeks abutting areas that I
need to mow weekly. Because of the clay I have aerated every other year.
I don't know if this makes any difference in the suggestions, but
I thought I'd throw it in.

--
"Even I realized that money was to politicians what the ecalyptus tree is to koala bears: food, water, shelter and something to crap on."
---PJ O'Rourke

Questions
 

"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
I am taking over my own lawn work after deciding that I could kill off
my 25 y/o sod yard at least as efficiently (and much cheaper) than my
lawn service. Being an newbie, I have some questions.
In Central Indiana, when should I put down the fertilizer (and
what kind), the weed killer (I prefer granular but could do liquid if
there is any consensus one is better than the other)? I am leaning
toward fertilizing and then weed killing. Any real reason to do it in
two steps? How much time between the two?

I am thinking about doing some reseeding. Currently I am considering
just broadcasting the seed. Does that impact on the timing of the
fertilizer and weed killer.
The area is mostly clay and I am told the original developer sold off
most of the top soil. Over about the last five or six years, I have seen
the sod markedly become thinner and thinner to the point where there are
now bald spots. However, this hasn't been terribly consistent with some
areas that I don't have to mow but every 2 weeks abutting areas that I
need to mow weekly. Because of the clay I have aerated every other year.
I don't know if this makes any difference in the suggestions, but
I thought I'd throw it in.

--
"Even I realized that money was to politicians what the ecalyptus tree is
to koala bears: food, water, shelter and something to crap on."
---PJ O'Rourke

I'm not familiar with Indiana, or don't know (You didn't mention) what kind
of grass.
But, a few rules apply all over.

1. NEVER use a weed & feed product. The weed part is a herbicide
pre-emergent. If one uses a pre-emergent, it needs to be applied before
weeds emerge. I suggest to not use a pre-emergent, unless something like
corn gluten.
In addition, the herbicide can damage or even kill shrubs & bushes.

2. Grass does not need fertilizer until 4 to 6 weeks after spring.
Therefore, the weed and seed is generally too late to help with the weeds,
and too early to fertilize. A rule of thumb on time to fertilize is after
the the third required mowing.

3. As to poor soil, clay; there is probably nothing better to revitalize
soil than compost. Spread about a half inch thick layer of compost over the
yard this spring, and again six months later. Do this for two or three
years in a row, and your soil will be GREATLY improved. You can either make
the compost yourself if you have enough raw material, or purchase it in
bulk.

About the best I can tell you from the information you provided. You might
consider discussing with your county agent, or at least a good nursery.

Good luck, Bob-tx

Questions
 

In article ,
"Bob-tx" No Spam no contact wrote:



About the best I can tell you from the information you provided. You might
consider discussing with your county agent, or at least a good nursery.


Thanks for the reply. I hadn't even thought about the county agent, so
this was VERY useful if with the scant infor I gave.

--
"Even I realized that money was to politicians what the ecalyptus tree is to koala bears: food, water, shelter and something to crap on."
---PJ O'Rourke

Questions
 

Bob-tx wrote:
I'm not familiar with Indiana, or don't know (You didn't mention)
what kind of grass.
But, a few rules apply all over.

1. NEVER use a weed & feed product. The weed part is a herbicide
pre-emergent. If one uses a pre-emergent, it needs to be applied
before weeds emerge. I suggest to not use a pre-emergent, unless
something like corn gluten.
In addition, the herbicide can damage or even kill shrubs & bushes.

I've never seen a weed & feed with pre-emergent weed killer. The ones around
here are broadleaf weed killer that kill the broadleaf leaves and associated
plants they fall on.

Questions
 

On 3/7/2011 10:25 AM, Bob F wrote:
Bob-tx wrote:
I'm not familiar with Indiana, or don't know (You didn't mention)
what kind of grass.
But, a few rules apply all over.

1. NEVER use a weed& feed product. The weed part is a herbicide
pre-emergent. If one uses a pre-emergent, it needs to be applied
before weeds emerge. I suggest to not use a pre-emergent, unless
something like corn gluten.
In addition, the herbicide can damage or even kill shrubs& bushes.

I've never seen a weed& feed with pre-emergent weed killer. The ones around
here are broadleaf weed killer that kill the broadleaf leaves and associated
plants they fall on.


Pre-emergent is normally for crab grass and around here is applied late
March - April 1, about time forsythia blooms or before.

I'll use weed and feed in the fall if weeds have taken over, other wise
spot weeding or spraying. I like to over seed a few weeks after.