Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally. I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.
So I have been happy to see any grass growing. But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots. Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

What I wonder is: Should I try to uproot the crab grass
in these mixed patches? Or would it be better to just
sprey it down with crab crass killer?

Also; It is probably too late in the season to think about
reseeding the bare patch where I uprooted the crab grass.
Would it be a good idea to mulch the patch with leaves for
the winter to keep the weeds out?

Locational info: I live in Portland, OR and we are going into
a dry cool spell. Looks like no rain in the forecast for
the next few days.

On Nov 30, 6:27*pm, Gordon wrote:
Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. *The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. *When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. *A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally. I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.
So I have been happy to see any grass growing. *But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots. Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. *But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

What I wonder is: Should I try to uproot the crab grass
in these mixed patches? Or would it be better to just
sprey it down with crab crass killer?

Also; It is probably too late in the season to think about
reseeding the bare patch where I uprooted the crab grass.
Would it be a good idea to mulch the patch with leaves for
the winter to keep the weeds out?

Locational info: I live in Portland, OR and we are going into
a dry cool spell. *Looks like no rain in the forecast for
the next few days.

You need to apply a pre-emergent in the spring. Don't know about your
area but rule of thumb here is just before forsythias bloom.
Crabgrass dies in the winter but next years crop of seeds are already
in your lawn.

According to my knowledge..

All crabgrasses have similar growth habits and flowering structures, but species are separated by minor differences in the flower structures and leaf pubescence. They typically have spreading stems with wide flat leaf blades that lie on the ground with the tips ascending.

you whould be better off just to spray the lot with round up and rotavate and lay new
Turf

hi
I have published a link along with 2 photos of the unwanted grass I've growing amongst my UC Verde Zoysia grass yard within The southern area of CA. I think it is crab lawn, it might be some form of Bermuda. I've got a pretty thick remain of these things working its way thru the yard. Any kind of suggestions on control? The actual Zoysia lawn goes dormant throughout the winter months. Might which be the greatest time with regard to using some kind of control of this other grass?

On Nov 30, 6:27*pm, Gordon wrote:
Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. *The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. *When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. *A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally.

Lawns don't spread and establish naturally, unless you let
them go to seed. Clump type grasses, eg tall fescue, is
one plant. The plant can grow larger if it has empty space
next to it, but it isn't going to grow from a 6" plant to fill your
back lawn. Bluegrass can spread via rhizomes but it would
take forever to fill a backyard that is bare.

I'd also consider what exactly you have there. You know you
can't make a silk pursue out of a sow's ear, right? If it's some
crap grass, poor texture, poor color, poor wear tolerance, etc,
would you want it to be your lawn?



I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.

Why? If cost is an issue, you could re-seed inexpensively.
Better and cheaper to do it right once, instead of screwing
around. Depending on the soil condition, it could be as simple
as killing it off with Roundup, core aerating, then using an
over-seeder to put down the new seed.


So I have been happy to see any grass growing. *But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots.

You sure it's crabgrass? Crabgrass grows in the heat of summer
and dies off in early Fall. In Portland you have temps in the 30s at
night no? I'm in Coastal NJ where it's barely gotten down to
freezing and all the crabgrass has been dead since mid Oct.



Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. *But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

Seems you're hell bent on doing everything the hard way.
Let's say you have a 6000 sq ft lawn.
In late Aug/early Sept I would have:

Sprayed the crap that is there with Roundup. 1 hour
Wait about 10 days until it;s all dead, mow short 1 hour
Rake up the major part of the debris 3 hours
Rent a core aerator 3 hours
Rent an overseeder 3 hours

Cost: $250

With an appropriate, quality grass seed, you'd be looking
at a half way decent lawn now and a mighty fine one by
summer.



What I wonder is: Should I try to uproot the crab grass
in these mixed patches? Or would it be better to just
sprey it down with crab crass killer?

It's been in the low 40s, or 30s at night for how long by you?
Crabgrass?


Also; It is probably too late in the season to think about
reseeding the bare patch where I uprooted the crab grass.
Would it be a good idea to mulch the patch with leaves for
the winter to keep the weeds out?

You're learning the big problem with pulling weeds. It
opens up the soil and allows a spot for more weeds to get
established. Forget about doing anything at this point.
Except maybe testing the soil and liming if necessary,

Depending on what you have there now and if you can
tolerate it another season, I'd either get through another
year and re-seed in the fall, or else re-seed in spring.
Fall is by far the best time. But then you're in OR with
plenty of rain and more moderate summer, right?
Main problem with spring seeding for you will be
competition from weeds. But if you keep after it, it
can be done.

As Frank suggested, the best solution with crabgrass
is to put down a pre-emergent in Spring. It's usually
sold together with fertilizer. BUT, if you do seeding in
the spring, make sure you use one of the pre-emergent
products, eg Tupersan, that is suitable for seeding, new
grass, etc. The conventional, most common ones
can't be used with new seeding. Another reason why
seeding in fall is better.




Locational info: I live in Portland, OR and we are going into
a dry cool spell. *Looks like no rain in the forecast for
the next few days.

" wrote in news:a3206db6-
:

On Nov 30, 6:27*pm, Gordon wrote:
Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. *The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. *When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. *A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally.

Lawns don't spread and establish naturally, unless you let
them go to seed. Clump type grasses, eg tall fescue, is
one plant. The plant can grow larger if it has empty space
next to it, but it isn't going to grow from a 6" plant to fill your
back lawn. Bluegrass can spread via rhizomes but it would
take forever to fill a backyard that is bare.

Well, all I know is that as I clear out the wood chips and
pine needels and get down to dirt, grass will start growing.
It may not start immiediatly, but this summer I had less bare
dirt and more grass.

I have to point out that in some areas I did sow some grass
seed. But not all. Some of the areas where I did not sow are
comming up grass. It starts out as a fairly even layer of
small blades. They then grow to slowly fill out the area.


I'd also consider what exactly you have there. You know you
can't make a silk pursue out of a sow's ear, right? If it's some
crap grass, poor texture, poor color, poor wear tolerance, etc,
would you want it to be your lawn?


That's the millon $$ question. I'm no expert. But I can tell
you that I have two types of grass in my lawn. The majority of
it is a fine Blue Grass type of grass. Then there is this
course textured grass. It looks a lot like Crab Grass. But it
could be Zoyza or Burmuda for all I know.




I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.

Why? If cost is an issue, you could re-seed inexpensively.
Better and cheaper to do it right once, instead of screwing
around. Depending on the soil condition, it could be as simple
as killing it off with Roundup, core aerating, then using an
over-seeder to put down the new seed.


Well, parts of the lawn are doing quite well. Why mess with
that? It's just this one area that is needing work. There
is hardly anything to kill right now. So I just clear out the
pine needels and the wood chips. If something starts growing
(and some times it does) So be it. But if I have my doubts,
I'll sow some seed.


So I have been happy to see any grass growing. *But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots.

You sure it's crabgrass? Crabgrass grows in the heat of summer
and dies off in early Fall. In Portland you have temps in the 30s at
night no? I'm in Coastal NJ where it's barely gotten down to
freezing and all the crabgrass has been dead since mid Oct.

I'm beginning to have my doubts. We have had several nights
(esp. in the last week) of temps at or near freezing. But
the "Crab Grass" is still alive. So I'm having my doubts.



Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. *But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

Seems you're hell bent on doing everything the hard way.
Let's say you have a 6000 sq ft lawn.
In late Aug/early Sept I would have:

Well, it's not 6000 sqft. And most of it is in good shape.
It's the part that used to be the dog run, and the part that
is under the pine trees (neighbors trees that overhang my
lot) and a few other small patches that need work.


Sprayed the crap that is there with Roundup. 1 hour

Most of what is there is not crap. And the parts that
need work don't have grass already. Although I could roundup
the patches of course "Crab Grass" if that's the best way
to go.

Wait about 10 days until it;s all dead, mow short 1 hour
Rake up the major part of the debris 3 hours

Then figure out how to dispose of them.

Rent a core aerator 3 hours
Rent an overseeder 3 hours

Yard is small enough to do this by hand.


Cost: $250

With an appropriate, quality grass seed, you'd be looking
at a half way decent lawn now and a mighty fine one by
summer.



What I wonder is: Should I try to uproot the crab grass
in these mixed patches? Or would it be better to just
sprey it down with crab crass killer?

It's been in the low 40s, or 30s at night for how long by you?
Crabgrass?


Also; It is probably too late in the season to think about
reseeding the bare patch where I uprooted the crab grass.
Would it be a good idea to mulch the patch with leaves for
the winter to keep the weeds out?

You're learning the big problem with pulling weeds. It
opens up the soil and allows a spot for more weeds to get
established. Forget about doing anything at this point.
Except maybe testing the soil and liming if necessary,

Did that already. and put down Scotts Winter care.
It helped bunches.


Depending on what you have there now and if you can
tolerate it another season, I'd either get through another
year and re-seed in the fall, or else re-seed in spring.
Fall is by far the best time. But then you're in OR with
plenty of rain and more moderate summer, right?
Main problem with spring seeding for you will be
competition from weeds. But if you keep after it, it
can be done.

As Frank suggested, the best solution with crabgrass
is to put down a pre-emergent in Spring. It's usually
sold together with fertilizer. BUT, if you do seeding in
the spring, make sure you use one of the pre-emergent
products, eg Tupersan, that is suitable for seeding, new
grass, etc. The conventional, most common ones
can't be used with new seeding. Another reason why
seeding in fall is better.




Locational info: I live in Portland, OR and we are going into
a dry cool spell. *Looks like no rain in the forecast for
the next few days.

On Dec 5, 11:33*pm, Gordon wrote:
" wrote in news:a3206db6-
:





On Nov 30, 6:27*pm, Gordon wrote:
Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. *The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. *When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. *A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally.

Lawns don't spread and establish naturally, unless you let
them go to seed. *Clump type grasses, eg tall fescue, is
one plant. *The plant can grow larger if it has empty space
next to it, but it isn't going to grow from a 6" plant to fill your
back lawn. *Bluegrass can spread via rhizomes but it would
take forever to fill a backyard that is bare.

Well, all I know is that as I clear out the wood chips and
pine needels and get down to dirt, grass will start growing.
It may not start immiediatly, but this summer I had less bare
dirt and more grass.

Yeah, volunteer grass of unknown type will grow. As will whatever
the crap is that you think is crabgrass and other weeds.
If you want that for a lawn and
are willing to wait many seasons, then that approach will work.
Why not just clear out all the wood chips and renovate it the right
way?


I have to point out that in some areas I did sow some grass
seed. *But not all. Some of the areas where I did not sow are
comming up grass. *It starts out as a fairly even layer of
small blades. *They then grow to slowly fill out the area.



I'd also consider what exactly you have there. *You know you
can't make a silk pursue out of a sow's ear, right? *If it's some
crap grass, poor texture, poor color, poor wear tolerance, etc,
would you want it to be your lawn?

That's the millon $$ question. *I'm no expert. *But I can tell
you that I have two types of grass in my lawn. *The majority of
it is a fine Blue Grass type of grass. *Then there is this
course textured grass. It looks a lot like Crab Grass. But it
could be Zoyza or Burmuda for all I know.

Crabgrass looks very different from either of those grasses.
Look at some online pics. It's called crabgrass for a reason.





I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.

Why? *If cost is an issue, you could re-seed inexpensively.
Better and cheaper to do it right once, instead of screwing
around. *Depending on the soil condition, it could be as simple
as killing it off with Roundup, core aerating, then using an
over-seeder to put down the new seed.

Well, parts of the lawn are doing quite well. *Why mess with
that?

If parts are OK and you are happy with the quality of the grass
that is there, then don't mess with it. I was addressing the area
that you're having the problems with. If that's half of a lawn, then
I'd still kill off and renovate the whole thing so it's one uniform
lawn.


*It's just this one area that is needing work. *There
is hardly anything to kill right now. So I just clear out the
pine needels and the wood chips. If something starts growing
(and some times it does) So be it. *But if I have my doubts,
I'll sow some seed.

And how's that approach working?
You remind me of a friend. He asks for advice and people give him
10 suggestions. He immediately comes up with reasons why he
can't do any of them and continues on his own way.





So I have been happy to see any grass growing. *But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots.

You sure it's crabgrass? *Crabgrass grows in the heat of summer
and dies off in early Fall. *In Portland you have temps in the 30s at
night no? *I'm in Coastal NJ where it's barely gotten down to
freezing and all the crabgrass has been dead since mid Oct.

I'm beginning to have my doubts. *We have had several nights
(esp. in the last week) of temps at or near freezing. *But
the "Crab Grass" is still alive. So I'm having my doubts.



If you had killed off all of what is there in late Aug and re-seeded
in Sept that crap would not be there now





Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. *But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

Seems you're hell bent on doing everything the hard way.
Let's say you have a 6000 sq ft lawn.
In late Aug/early Sept I would have:

Well, it's not 6000 sqft. And most of it is in good shape.
It's the part that used to be the dog run, and the part that
is under the pine trees (neighbors trees that overhang my
lot) and a few other small patches that need work.



Sprayed the crap that is there with Roundup. *1 hour

Most of what is there is not crap. And the parts that
need work don't have grass already. Although I could roundup
the patches of course "Crab Grass" if that's the best way
to go.

If those areas don't have grass, why are you asking how to deal with
crabgrass? Just spray it with Roundup and it will kill it whatever it
is.


Wait about 10 days until it;s all dead, mow short *1 hour
Rake up the major part of the debris *3 hours

Then figure out how to dispose of them.

You remind me of a friend. He asks for advice and people give him
10 suggestions. He immediately comes up with reasons why he
can't do any of them and continues on his way.




Rent a core aerator * * 3 hours
Rent an overseeder * *3 hours

Yard is small enough to do this by hand.



Then why haven't you done it?


Cost: $250

With an appropriate, quality grass seed, you'd be looking
at a half way decent lawn now and a mighty fine one by
summer.

" wrote in news:ca2c7068-
:

On Dec 5, 11:33*pm, Gordon wrote:
" wrote in
news:a3206db6-
:





On Nov 30, 6:27*pm, Gordon wrote:
Some background:
So I bought this house two summers ago. When I moved in it
had been empty for over 6 months. *The lawn was a mess.
There were weeds growing that were taller than my 7 year
old son. My wife and I spent the better part of 3 days
just pulling weeds. *When the lawn came into it's own,
there was a lot of dirt. The back part of the lawn behind
the house was used as a dog run and was covered with wood
chips and pine needles. *A huge (and ongoing) effort is
going into raking and disposing of pine needles and wood
chips. I've managed to regain about 2/3rds of my back yard.

I have been trying to encourage the lawn to establish and
spread naturally.

Lawns don't spread and establish naturally, unless you let
them go to seed. *Clump type grasses, eg tall fescue, is
one plant. *The plant can grow larger if it has empty space
next to it, but it isn't going to grow from a 6" plant to fill your
back lawn. *Bluegrass can spread via rhizomes but it would
take forever to fill a backyard that is bare.

Well, all I know is that as I clear out the wood chips and
pine needels and get down to dirt, grass will start growing.
It may not start immiediatly, but this summer I had less bare
dirt and more grass.

Yeah, volunteer grass of unknown type will grow. As will whatever
the crap is that you think is crabgrass and other weeds.
If you want that for a lawn and
are willing to wait many seasons, then that approach will work.
Why not just clear out all the wood chips and renovate it the right
way?

Well, The wood chips and pine needles are mostly gone by now.
It's all based on how fast the county can haul them away.
I have a 90 Gallon lawn waste tip cart that gets picked up
every other week. That limits the rate ot which I can remove
them. Yeah, I know, there are faster ways of getting rid of
the stuff.

For the most part I have been happy with what has been
growing. It's just in the last month that I noticed the
other grass that I thought was Crab Grass. There have
been weeds, but I have been able to control them with
Weed-b-gone or by pulling them up.



I have to point out that in some areas I did sow some grass
seed. *But not all. Some of the areas where I did not sow are
comming up grass. *It starts out as a fairly even layer of
small blades. *They then grow to slowly fill out the area.



I'd also consider what exactly you have there. *You know you
can't make a silk pursue out of a sow's ear, right? *If it's some
crap grass, poor texture, poor color, poor wear tolerance, etc,
would you want it to be your lawn?

That's the millon $$ question. *I'm no expert. *But I can tell
you that I have two types of grass in my lawn. *The majority of
it is a fine Blue Grass type of grass. *Then there is this
course textured grass. It looks a lot like Crab Grass. But it
could be Zoyza or Burmuda for all I know.

Crabgrass looks very different from either of those grasses.
Look at some online pics. It's called crabgrass for a reason.

D'oh! Google images. Of course! applies palm of hand to forehead.



I don't want to tear it up and re-sod.

Why? *If cost is an issue, you could re-seed inexpensively.
Better and cheaper to do it right once, instead of screwing
around. *Depending on the soil condition, it could be as simple
as killing it off with Roundup, core aerating, then using an
over-seeder to put down the new seed.

Well, parts of the lawn are doing quite well. *Why mess with
that?

If parts are OK and you are happy with the quality of the grass
that is there, then don't mess with it. I was addressing the area
that you're having the problems with. If that's half of a lawn, then
I'd still kill off and renovate the whole thing so it's one uniform
lawn.


The part that needs work is only about 25% of the lawn. I don't
want to make this a bigger project then necessary.


*It's just this one area that is needing work. *There
is hardly anything to kill right now. So I just clear out the
pine needels and the wood chips. If something starts growing
(and some times it does) So be it. *But if I have my doubts,
I'll sow some seed.

And how's that approach working?
You remind me of a friend. He asks for advice and people give him
10 suggestions. He immediately comes up with reasons why he
can't do any of them and continues on his own way.

Reasonably good. Like I said, this was a recent (relitivly)
purchas and there are many things that need doing around here.
The lawn is a low to medium priority. For the first season I
was just concerned with controling the weeds. That allowed the
northwest and west areas of the lawn to florish. I left the
pine needles and wood chips on the ground as mulch to help
keep the weeds back. At the end of last season, I raked
the pine needles (from two trees that overhang the NE corner)
into a pile under the trees. And also raked up the wood chips.
Then started the slow process (mentioned above) of disposing
of the debris. No rush on that since interior renovations and
repairs were going on.

This, of course is all background. I have given thought to
your suggestions. But, as I pointed out, the lawn has not
been the highest priority of all the projects that are
competeing for my attention. But a couple of points:
- I dont want to Roundup the entire lawn since I'm happy with
the bigger part of it.
- I will selectivly Roundup on the patches of "Crap Grass", and
reseed.
- FWIW: I didn't know that Roundup was appropriat for laws.
I though it would permenently poision the soil.
- With most of the house repairs and renovations done, the lawn
will be a higher priority this next season.




So I have been happy to see any grass growing. *But now I
see that I have crab grass in my developing lawn. ARrrggg!
A bunch of it was next to a part that I had re-seeded
this summer and the crab grass was invading the new grass.
So I spant an hour yesterday with a cultivator hoe digging
into the crab grass patch and pulling it up along with
it's long stringy roots.

You sure it's crabgrass? *Crabgrass grows in the heat of summer
and dies off in early Fall. *In Portland you have temps in the 30s
at
night no? *I'm in Coastal NJ where it's barely gotten down to
freezing and all the crabgrass has been dead since mid Oct.

I'm beginning to have my doubts. *We have had several nights
(esp. in the last week) of temps at or near freezing. *But
the "Crab Grass" is still alive. So I'm having my doubts.



If you had killed off all of what is there in late Aug and re-seeded
in Sept that crap would not be there now.

That's true. But I wasn't realy paying attention. Most of the
lawn looks pretty good. It's just since October that I noticed
this area of crappy grass and the other few patches. It's really
not large enough to warrent killing the whole lawn. I just don't
want ot to spread. Selective use of Roundup is warrented.


Several of those roots ran into
the patch of new grass and came up with sveral tufts of
crab grass attached. I don't mind tearing up this patch
of crab grass since there appears to be no good grass in
here. *But I also see that there are patches of mixed
good/crab grass around the lawn.

Seems you're hell bent on doing everything the hard way.
Let's say you have a 6000 sq ft lawn.
In late Aug/early Sept I would have:

Well, it's not 6000 sqft. And most of it is in good shape.
It's the part that used to be the dog run, and the part that
is under the pine trees (neighbors trees that overhang my
lot) and a few other small patches that need work.



Sprayed the crap that is there with Roundup. *1 hour

Most of what is there is not crap. And the parts that
need work don't have grass already. Although I could roundup
the patches of course "Crab Grass" if that's the best way
to go.

If those areas don't have grass, why are you asking how to deal with
crabgrass? Just spray it with Roundup and it will kill it whatever it
is.


Wait about 10 days until it;s all dead, mow short *1 hour
Rake up the major part of the debris *3 hours

Then figure out how to dispose of them.

You remind me of a friend. He asks for advice and people give him
10 suggestions. He immediately comes up with reasons why he
can't do any of them and continues on his way.

And he's supposed to do what? follow all 10 suggestions?
Look. I've been at pains to point out that I am happy with
most of the lawn. The part I'm working on is only about 25%
of the lawn. There is no need to expand the project out to
include the entire lawn, which I'm already happy with. Further,
the problem areas are only about 10% of the part I'm working on.
Again, no need to nuke everything over that. I can see selective
use of roundup on the few trouble areas though.




Rent a core aerator * * 3 hours
Rent an overseeder * *3 hours

Yard is small enough to do this by hand.



Then why haven't you done it?

As I said above. Other higher priority projects.



Cost: $250

With an appropriate, quality grass seed, you'd be looking
at a half way decent lawn now and a mighty fine one by
summer.

On Dec 6, 7:29*pm, Gordon wrote:
" wrote in news:ca2c7068-
- FWIW: I didn't know that Roundup was appropriat for laws.
I though it would permenently poision the soil.

Just make sure it's the regular Roundup, not extended duration type.
You can also use any glyphosate based herbicide, which is what
is in Roundup. You can seed a week after application.

" wrote in news:7a2cc066-
:

On Dec 6, 7:29*pm, Gordon wrote:
" wrote in news:ca2c7068-
- FWIW: I didn't know that Roundup was appropriat for laws.
I though it would permenently poision the soil.

Just make sure it's the regular Roundup, not extended duration type.
You can also use any glyphosate based herbicide, which is what
is in Roundup. You can seed a week after application.


Awesome.
Thanks,