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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
bill cameron
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems

Moss to the max
Broad leaf weeds
Dandilions a small amount
Weed grass a small amount




New home owner on a budget...what should I do the first year, to have a
decent lawn? Thinking power racking with a thatch attachment on the my
lawnmower, then moss kill and repeat. Question. When do I go at the broad
leaf weeds with local spray, before or after thatching? Weed grass, just dig
out? Dandilions, just dig out?


Thanks

bill


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
irrat8ed1
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

I use Scotts brand products, and my lawn is great. If you kill the weeds
and fertilize (and keep it watered) you will be amazed at how in a few weeks
your lawn will be super green and thick. Seeding in the Spring and Fall is
a great way to thicken it up too. Scotts has a "fungus control" product.
After that I'd go with the 4 step program suggested for you area. (Be aware
that if you use the crabgrass preventer you can't seed for about 8 weeks.)
As for the dandelions...I hand spray those with weed-b-gone for broadleaf
weeds. You may have to do it a couple of times a week for a few weeks...but
it is worth it. They wont come back. If you dig out the dandelions it
leaves some of the root and it will grow back again and again. As far as
dethatching you could do that and then spread some seed to fill it in.
Dethaching is is pretty tough on the lawn, so I usually wait until early
fall to do that, though. That is the best planting time too. Link:
http://www.scotts.com/ Don't worry, I'm not some Scotts rep or something I
just like the stuff.





"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems

Moss to the max
Broad leaf weeds
Dandilions a small amount
Weed grass a small amount




New home owner on a budget...what should I do the first year, to have a
decent lawn? Thinking power racking with a thatch attachment on the my
lawnmower, then moss kill and repeat. Question. When do I go at the broad
leaf weeds with local spray, before or after thatching? Weed grass, just

dig
out? Dandilions, just dig out?


Thanks

bill




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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cheap man's lawn care

"irrat8ed1" wrote:
I use Scotts brand products, and my lawn is great. If you kill the weeds
and fertilize (and keep it watered) you will be amazed at how in a few
weeks your lawn will be super green and thick. Seeding in the Spring and
Fall is a great way to thicken it up too. Scotts has a "fungus control"
product. After that I'd go with the 4 step program suggested for you
area. (Be aware that if you use the crabgrass preventer you can't seed
for about 8 weeks.) As for the dandelions...I hand spray those with
weed-b-gone for broadleaf weeds. You may have to do it a couple of times
a week for a few weeks...but it is worth it. They wont come back. If
you dig out the dandelions it leaves some of the root and it will grow
back again and again. As far as dethatching you could do that and then
spread some seed to fill it in. Dethaching is is pretty tough on the
lawn, so I usually wait until early fall to do that, though. That is the
best planting time too. Link: http://www.scotts.com/ Don't worry, I'm
not some Scotts rep or something I just like the stuff.

You mentioned lots of moss,your soil may be acidic. A soil sample would be
the best place to start. If you find your soil to be acidic then limestone
is needed. Rule of thumb..50 lbs/1000 sg ft. The granulated lime is the
easiest to spread,use a spreader that is set about 3/4 open. Go over the
lawn as many times as it takes to use up the pr-determined amount of
lime.(you'll need to measure lenght x width)The measurement will also help
you determine how much seed you'll need. (5 to 8 lbs/1000sg ft is a good
starting point)

Also,as mentioned don't use any crabgrass preventer until your new seed has
germinated,and has been mowed at least three times. Use a seed starter
fertilizer at the time you sow.

Stay away from ANY weed control products until you have established your
new seedlings. (at least three mowings.

HTH

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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Tim Fischer
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems


Where are you located?

-Tim


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Timothy
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

On Sun, 09 Mar 2003 20:57:39 +0000, bill cameron wrote:

Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems

Moss to the max
Broad leaf weeds
Dandilions a small amount
Weed grass a small amount
New home owner on a budget...what should I do the first year, to have a
decent lawn? Thinking power racking with a thatch attachment on the my
lawnmower, then moss kill and repeat. Question. When do I go at the broad
leaf weeds with local spray, before or after thatching? Weed grass, just
dig out? Dandilions, just dig out?


Moss: 2 reasons for moss. Reason 1 is due to soil ph and reason 2 is due
to enviroment. With heavy moss infestations, I would suspect the lawn's
enviroment. If the lawn doesn't drain well, the moss will grow. To correct
this problem, you'll have to fix the drainage on the property.

Broad leaf weeds, weed grass and dandilions:
This is generally caused by neglect and or mowing too short. When the lawn
is not fertilized on a regular basis, the grass gets weaker and thinner
which allows more light to the lawn's surface which inturn sprouts more
weed seeds. Also when you mow too short, the same thing happens.

What I would recommend....
Test the lawn's ph. Adjust the lawn's ph if needed.
I would thatch the lawn using a 'real' thatching machine. You can rent one
for the day. When you thatch the lawn, you will be left with mostly dirt
area where your lawn was. Call a couple of friends to come over and help
rake up the lawn. You can compost the moss/grass or run it to the dump.
(expect alot of moss/grass to get rid of) Reseed the lawn with a good
grass seed that's right for your area/zone. Call your county's ag extenion
office for the correct grass. After reseeding, it's best to cover your
grass seed with peat moss. 1 large bail will cover 200 square feet of
lawn. This will help with the seed germenation and help to keep the birds
out of it also. After the seed sprouts, wait 2 to 4 weeks before you mow
it. I tend to fertilize the lawn at this time with 21-3-7. DONOT use weed
and feed type fertilizer untill the lawn's at least 4 months old. You will
damage the new seedlings. If the lawn looks thin in the fall, reseed it
again.

With proper fertilization, watering and mowing, your lawn will look great
at little cost to maintain. Contact your local master gardeners. This is
the address to the one I belong to and it should work for your area.
http://gardening.wsu.edu/


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Timothy
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cheap man's lawn care

On Mon, 10 Mar 2003 05:46:16 +0000, irrat8ed1 wrote:

I use Scotts brand products, and my lawn is great. If you kill the weeds
and fertilize (and keep it watered) you will be amazed at how in a few
weeks your lawn will be super green and thick. Seeding in the Spring and
Fall is a great way to thicken it up too. Scotts has a "fungus control"
product. After that I'd go with the 4 step program suggested for you area.
(Be aware that if you use the crabgrass preventer you can't seed for
about 8 weeks.) As for the dandelions...I hand spray those with
weed-b-gone for broadleaf weeds. You may have to do it a couple of times
a week for a few weeks...but it is worth it. They wont come back. If you
dig out the dandelions it leaves some of the root and it will grow back
again and again. As far as dethatching you could do that and then spread
some seed to fill it in. Dethaching is is pretty tough on the lawn, so I
usually wait until early fall to do that, though. That is the best
planting time too. Link: http://www.scotts.com/ Don't worry, I'm not
some Scotts rep or something I just like the stuff.



You would be shocked nearly to death if you got your carpet analised for
heavy metals and chemicals. Everytime you walk on your grass, you track
more of it into your house and embed it into your carpet. My city had a
testing program for a while... my test came back with really bad numbers
and I ripped out the capet and installed pergo floors.
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
bill cameron
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

Thanks for all your responses...
I live in North Vancouver Canada, just north of Seattle. Lawn drains really
well into niebours' that doesn't.
Lots of sun, and as you can imagine A TON of rain each and EVERY year. I
mean a TON of rain. As it turns out from talking to neibours, the previous
owner never did anything with this lawn, escept mow it. Never reallly
watered... never fertilzed and Never limed. From what I have hear from
others, it would be impossible to over lime in this part of the world.

I look forward to the power rake, moss kiss and seeding, Great ideas from
all of you, and I thank you all. I have printed all your posts and have
proudly placed them in my "house book" that I have started.


Happy gardening


Bill


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cheap man's lawn care

wrote:
"irrat8ed1" wrote:
I use Scotts brand products, and my lawn is great. If you kill the
weeds and fertilize (and keep it watered) you will be amazed at how in
a few weeks your lawn will be super green and thick. Seeding in the
Spring and Fall is a great way to thicken it up too. Scotts has a
"fungus control" product. After that I'd go with the 4 step program
suggested for you area. (Be aware that if you use the crabgrass
preventer you can't seed for about 8 weeks.) As for the dandelions...I
hand spray those with weed-b-gone for broadleaf weeds. You may have to
do it a couple of times a week for a few weeks...but it is worth it.
They wont come back. If you dig out the dandelions it leaves some of
the root and it will grow back again and again. As far as dethatching
you could do that and then spread some seed to fill it in. Dethaching
is is pretty tough on the lawn, so I usually wait until early fall to
do that, though. That is the best planting time too. Link:
http://www.scotts.com/ Don't worry, I'm not some Scotts rep or
something I just like the stuff.

You mentioned lots of moss,your soil may be acidic. A soil sample would
be the best place to start. If you find your soil to be acidic then
limestone is needed. Rule of thumb..50 lbs/1000 sg ft. The granulated
lime is the easiest to spread,use a spreader that is set about 3/4 open.
Go over the lawn as many times as it takes to use up the pr-determined
amount of lime.(you'll need to measure lenght x width)The measurement
will also help you determine how much seed you'll need. (5 to 8
lbs/1000sg ft is a good starting point)

Also,as mentioned don't use any crabgrass preventer until your new seed
has germinated,and has been mowed at least three times. Use a seed
starter fertilizer at the time you sow.

Stay away from ANY weed control products until you have established your
new seedlings. (at least three mowings.

HTH

Follow-up:

You can use a pre-emergent product called Tupersan when you seed,if you
expect to have annual grass weed problems. It's not real effective,but does
help,and it allows most desirable turf seed to germinate. The bag may not
say Tupersan,but look at the pre- emergence product on the label. It's a
'seeding pre-emergent'..that's what you'd ask for at the local garden
center. (I do mean local)

Email me if you need more specifics. remove nospam.

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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Tim Fischer
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care


"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Thanks for all your responses...
I live in North Vancouver Canada, just north of Seattle. Lawn drains

really
well into niebours' that doesn't.


Is Vancover really ready for lawn care already? We still have quite a bit
of snow in MN...

-Tim


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

"Tim Fischer" wrote:
"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Thanks for all your responses...
I live in North Vancouver Canada, just north of Seattle. Lawn drains

really
well into niebours' that doesn't.


Is Vancover really ready for lawn care already? We still have quite a
bit of snow in MN...

-Tim

The ground is frozen in northern Ohio,but it's never too early to plan.

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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Tim Fischer
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

wrote in message
...
The ground is frozen in northern Ohio,but it's never too early to plan.


Oh I agree, but if, as he said, he "*just* bought the house" how could he
know all these problems already?

-Tim


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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

"Tim Fischer" wrote:
wrote in message
...
The ground is frozen in northern Ohio,but it's never too early to plan.


Oh I agree, but if, as he said, he "*just* bought the house" how could he
know all these problems already?

-Tim

He mentioned talking to the neighbor,and it sounds like you could see those
problems.

I have to put price tags on those repairs.

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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Timothy
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

On Fri, 14 Mar 2003 02:45:20 +0000, Moparholi wrote:

"Tim Fischer" wrote:
wrote in message
...
The ground is frozen in northern Ohio,but it's never too early to
plan.


Oh I agree, but if, as he said, he "*just* bought the house" how could
he know all these problems already?

-Tim

He mentioned talking to the neighbor,and it sounds like you could see
those problems.

I have to put price tags on those repairs.


I live 40 miles south of Vancouver and own my own gardening compainy. I've
already mowed some of my customers twice this year. I would gander that
Bill has already mowed or is about to mow it and he can see the problems
quite clearly. I do about 10 lawn repairs per season and it's right on
time for Bill to be getting his supplies together for a thatch job.
Depending on temperatures and the like, Bil will be able to thatch and
reseed from last week in march to mid may. After that he should wait
untill fall.........
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
2batgirl
 
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Default Cheap man's lawn care

I have lived in the same place for 12 yrs. The smartest thing I ever did was
letting a lawn care agency take over for a year. 1 yr! Thats it. Why try &
fugre out this & that & buy this & get that?? I added it all up. Fertilizer,
weed killer etc. It was cheaper to let them come in & get the grass on
track. They do the work, there stuff there time. Now my yard is great & if i
see a something out of place its an easy peasy fix in one tinky winky spot.
Not the huge mess I started with befor ethey got it.

--
Books just wanna be FREE! See what I mean at:
http://bookcrossing.com/friend/2batgirl
"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems

Moss to the max
Broad leaf weeds
Dandilions a small amount
Weed grass a small amount




New home owner on a budget...what should I do the first year, to have a
decent lawn? Thinking power racking with a thatch attachment on the my
lawnmower, then moss kill and repeat. Question. When do I go at the broad
leaf weeds with local spray, before or after thatching? Weed grass, just

dig
out? Dandilions, just dig out?


Thanks

bill




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Old 05-05-2003, 11:58 PM
Ron B
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cheap man's lawn care

On 17/03/03 14:23, in article
ers.com, "2batgirl"
wrote:17/03/03 14:23

I have lived in the same place for 12 yrs. The smartest thing I ever did was
letting a lawn care agency take over for a year. 1 yr! Thats it. Why try &
fugre out this & that & buy this & get that?? I added it all up. Fertilizer,
weed killer etc. It was cheaper to let them come in & get the grass on
track. They do the work, there stuff there time. Now my yard is great & if i
see a something out of place its an easy peasy fix in one tinky winky spot.
Not the huge mess I started with befor ethey got it.

--
Books just wanna be FREE! See what I mean at:
http://bookcrossing.com/friend/2batgirl
"bill cameron" wrote in message
...
Just bought a house for the first time. My small lawn has the following
problems

Moss to the max
Broad leaf weeds
Dandilions a small amount
Weed grass a small amount




New home owner on a budget...what should I do the first year, to have a
decent lawn? Thinking power racking with a thatch attachment on the my
lawnmower, then moss kill and repeat. Question. When do I go at the broad
leaf weeds with local spray, before or after thatching? Weed grass, just



Let me see...3 full years with Chemlawn and my yard so far looks no better
than it did before I signed up. No Thanks...

I have decided to do it on my own, even if it costs me more money, I cannot
do any worse. If you ever do signup, you will have many pleading phone
calls asking you to give them another try - even after telling them no way.

My yard currently looks like crap. The only thing that I can recommend
Chemlawn for is the lack of those yellow pests - everything else is a great
let down.

My two cents...

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