Growing grass from seed
 

Hello

I have never grown grass before so would appreciate some advice.

When I moved in, my garden was an absolute jungle due to it being untouched for around 10 years. I have now cleared one side and want to get grass growing.

My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds from coming back up.

Would this work do you think? Obviously, I would use a weed barrier that allows water to drain through and I would probably have around 3 inches of top soil/compost on top for my seeds.

Also, is it best to use compost on the top to level it all off, or do I need to use top soil? I am not really sure what the difference between the two is.

Thanks for any help

I should probably add that I have made every effort to remove roots, but if I leave the patch I cleared for more than a week, more weedy green shoots start coming up. I don't know if this is from birds/wind or if it is stuff coming up from below.

Thanks!

Growing grass from seed
 

On Monday, July 7, 2014 3:51:15 AM UTC-4, OldWasp wrote:
Hello



I have never grown grass before so would appreciate some advice.



When I moved in, my garden was an absolute jungle due to it being

untouched for around 10 years. I have now cleared one side and want to

get grass growing.



My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds from

coming back up.



Using a weed barrier where? I'm not a big fan of weed barriers, but
if they are going to be used, they are used in landscaped beds, around
trees, etc, not where you have turf. How would grass grow if you have
a weed barrier?





Would this work do you think? Obviously, I would use a weed barrier that

allows water to drain through and I would probably have around 3 inches

of top soil/compost on top for my seeds.



And the weeds will grow just like the grass grows.




Also, is it best to use compost on the top to level it all off, or do I

need to use top soil? I am not really sure what the difference between

the two is.


You want topsoil. Compost can be mixed in. Topsoil is the top layer of
the soil, extending from a few inches to maybe a foot or so, depending on
the area. Compost is decayed organic matter. Topsoil consists of some
compost, which occurs naturally from decaying vegetation, plus other soil
components like sand, clay, etc. If the topsoil is good, you don't need
to add compost. For growing new turf in most areas, you don't need to
add compost in, but it can help. What you use depends on what is available
locally and how much it costs.

I'd google for lawn renovation or seeding a new lawn. Also, don't know
where you are, climate, etc. But if it's a cool season grass area and
it's summer now, it's the worst time to try to establish a new lawn.
Fall, ie Sept is best time. Then you have cooler temps. Now you'd have
to water the lawn many times a day to keep it wet. And even once it starts
to grow, you have to keep putting water on it if it's 85F. You also
have huge competition from weeds. In Sept, nature is on your side. And
then the lawn has a long time to establish good roots, before it hits
it's first summer stress. If you want a lawn now, I'd consider buying sod,
depending on area, budget, etc.

Thanks for the advice.

I meant put the weed barrier on top of the soil, then add more soil on top (e.g. 3 inches) for the grass to grow on.

I am going to have to top up the soil area so that it is level, so I was just wondering whether there is any advantage from putting a weed barrier down before I put fresh top soil on top to level it.

I am in Scotland so I was thinking to do it about now when the sun is still out. My box of seeds says September is the latest time of year you can sow them.

Don't have money to spend on turf but it's not urgent either so I can wait for the seeds to grow.

Growing grass from seed
 

OldWasp wrote:
My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds
from


I have never grown grass before so would appreciate some advice.



When I moved in, my garden was an absolute jungle due to it being

untouched for around 10 years. I have now cleared one side and want
to

get grass growing.



My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds
from

coming back up.

-

Using a weed barrier where? I'm not a big fan of weed barriers, but
if they are going to be used, they are used in landscaped beds,
around trees, etc, not where you have turf. How would grass grow if
you have a weed barrier?



-

Would this work do you think? Obviously, I would use a weed barrier
that

allows water to drain through and I would probably have around 3
inches

of top soil/compost on top for my seeds.

-

And the weeds will grow just like the grass grows.


-

Also, is it best to use compost on the top to level it all off, or do
I

need to use top soil? I am not really sure what the difference
between

the two is.
-

You want topsoil. Compost can be mixed in. Topsoil is the top layer
of
the soil, extending from a few inches to maybe a foot or so,
depending on
the area. Compost is decayed organic matter. Topsoil consists of
some compost, which occurs naturally from decaying vegetation, plus
other soil
components like sand, clay, etc. If the topsoil is good, you don't
need
to add compost. For growing new turf in most areas, you don't need
to add compost in, but it can help. What you use depends on what is
available
locally and how much it costs.

I'd google for lawn renovation or seeding a new lawn. Also, don't
know where you are, climate, etc. But if it's a cool season grass
area and it's summer now, it's the worst time to try to establish a
new lawn. Fall, ie Sept is best time. Then you have cooler temps.
Now you'd have
to water the lawn many times a day to keep it wet. And even once it
starts
to grow, you have to keep putting water on it if it's 85F. You also
have huge competition from weeds. In Sept, nature is on your side.
And
then the lawn has a long time to establish good roots, before it hits
it's first summer stress. If you want a lawn now, I'd consider
buying sod,
depending on area, budget, etc.

Thanks for the advice.

I meant put the weed barrier on top of the soil, then add more soil on
top (e.g. 3 inches) for the grass to grow on.

I am going to have to top up the soil area so that it is level, so I
was just wondering whether there is any advantage from putting a weed
barrier down before I put fresh top soil on top to level it.

I am in Scotland so I was thinking to do it about now when the sun is
still out. My box of seeds says September is the latest time of year
you can sow them.

Don't have money to spend on turf but it's not urgent either so I can
wait for the seeds to grow.

Using weed barrier as you suggest would just limit the depth that grass can grow
its roots, making it less drought tolerant.

If you want to start it now, you will have to be serious about watering. When
you first plant the seed, you want to water very lightly until the grass is well
sprouted. This means running a sprinkler for maybe 5 minutes morning, noon, and
mid afternoon. You don't want to soak it, but you don't want the seed to dry out
and die. When the grass is well sprouted, reduce the frequency gradually. while
increasing the amount of water to get the soil wet deeply. It would be easier in
the fall, but similar "rules" apply.

For leveling whatever topsoil you add, or even the soil there already if you
don't, Rent a WIDE landscapers rake, and work hard to get it level. Using a lawn
roller to firm it up, then raking, repeat a few times, so you don't end up with
more settling producing low spots. Spots that were tilled deeper than others
will settle more unless you do something to prevent it.

Thanks for the advice - so do you mean that I can use a weed barrier to stop weeds from coming up? If so, how much soil should be on top of the weed barrier?

One of my reasons for growing grass is to stop weeds from coming up, making it easier for me to maintain.

Do you think that once grass is growing well, it will stop weeds from coming up? If the grass will act as a weed barrier in itself, then I probably won't bother putting in a physical one.

Thanks

Growing grass from seed
 

OldWasp said:

Thanks for the advice - so do you mean that I can use a weed barrier to
stop weeds from coming up? If so, how much soil should be on top of the
weed barrier?

No, it would stunt the lawn grass and make it vulnerable to drought. Forget
the weed barrier.

One of my reasons for growing grass is to stop weeds from coming up,
making it easier for me to maintain.

Do you think that once grass is growing well, it will stop weeds from
coming up? If the grass will act as a weed barrier in itself, then I
probably won't bother putting in a physical one.

Yes, a good, healthy stand of turf will block the weeds. You may need to do
spot weeding to keep it that way. This requires a mower with a sharp blade
that you use often and at the proper height setting. (Many people mow too
close and too infrequently.)

What you may want to do (if you have the time and patience and are willing
to use some chemicals weed killers) is to spray the lawn-to-be with
glyphosate to kill the current vegetation, then when it's dead, till, add
topsoil, and regrade.

Let the weeds sprout, then kill, till and regrade if neccessary. Let the weeds
sprout one more time, kill the sprouts and rake. *Then* plant your grass
seed, using recommended varieties and guidelines for your area.

The extra cycles of letting the weeds sprout and killing them will (somewhat)
deplete the supply of weed seeds that will be competing with your new grass
*and* give the area time to settle a bit *before* you commit your time and
resources to growing the lawn.
--
Pat in Plymouth MI

"Yes, swooping is bad."

email valid but not regularly monitored

Growing grass from seed
 

On 7/8/2014 4:15 AM, OldWasp wrote:

Thanks for the advice - so do you mean that I can use a weed barrier to
stop weeds from coming up? If so, how much soil should be on top of the
weed barrier?

Here's a big fat hint: soil contains weed seeds. Plus, wind and rain
deposit still more seed onto soil. Thus, applying a weed barrier and
piling soil over it would accomplish exactly nothing in terms of weed
reduction.

You will have weeds. That's normal. Once the grass seed has sprouted
and been mown three times, you can treat the new lawn with an
appropriate chemical weedkiller. Or, if the area is small enough, you
can hand weed it at any time. But don't sweat the weeds. Your primary
goal is to get the grass well established. You can make getting rid of
the weeds your followup goal once the turf is well established.

Growing grass from seed
 

On Tuesday, July 8, 2014 12:25:02 AM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
OldWasp wrote:

My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds

from





I have never grown grass before so would appreciate some advice.







When I moved in, my garden was an absolute jungle due to it being



untouched for around 10 years. I have now cleared one side and want

to



get grass growing.







My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds

from



coming back up.



-



Using a weed barrier where? I'm not a big fan of weed barriers, but

if they are going to be used, they are used in landscaped beds,

around trees, etc, not where you have turf. How would grass grow if

you have a weed barrier?







-



Would this work do you think? Obviously, I would use a weed barrier

that



allows water to drain through and I would probably have around 3

inches



of top soil/compost on top for my seeds.



-



And the weeds will grow just like the grass grows.





-



Also, is it best to use compost on the top to level it all off, or do

I



need to use top soil? I am not really sure what the difference

between



the two is.

-



You want topsoil. Compost can be mixed in. Topsoil is the top layer

of

the soil, extending from a few inches to maybe a foot or so,

depending on

the area. Compost is decayed organic matter. Topsoil consists of

some compost, which occurs naturally from decaying vegetation, plus

other soil

components like sand, clay, etc. If the topsoil is good, you don't

need

to add compost. For growing new turf in most areas, you don't need

to add compost in, but it can help. What you use depends on what is

available

locally and how much it costs.



I'd google for lawn renovation or seeding a new lawn. Also, don't

know where you are, climate, etc. But if it's a cool season grass

area and it's summer now, it's the worst time to try to establish a

new lawn. Fall, ie Sept is best time. Then you have cooler temps.

Now you'd have

to water the lawn many times a day to keep it wet. And even once it

starts

to grow, you have to keep putting water on it if it's 85F. You also

have huge competition from weeds. In Sept, nature is on your side.

And

then the lawn has a long time to establish good roots, before it hits

it's first summer stress. If you want a lawn now, I'd consider

buying sod,

depending on area, budget, etc.



Thanks for the advice.



I meant put the weed barrier on top of the soil, then add more soil on

top (e.g. 3 inches) for the grass to grow on.



I am going to have to top up the soil area so that it is level, so I

was just wondering whether there is any advantage from putting a weed

barrier down before I put fresh top soil on top to level it.



I am in Scotland so I was thinking to do it about now when the sun is

still out. My box of seeds says September is the latest time of year

you can sow them.



Don't have money to spend on turf but it's not urgent either so I can

wait for the seeds to grow.



Using weed barrier as you suggest would just limit the depth that grass can grow

its roots, making it less drought tolerant.



If you want to start it now, you will have to be serious about watering. When

you first plant the seed, you want to water very lightly until the grass is well

sprouted. This means running a sprinkler for maybe 5 minutes morning, noon, and

mid afternoon. You don't want to soak it, but you don't want the seed to dry out

and die.

Running it 5 mins 3 times a day in the peak of summer, most places, it
will still dry out. There isn't any downside to watering it more than necessary,
you just can't let it dry out. When it's 85 and full sun, I'd say 10 mins
is minimum. And I'd do it at 11AM, 2PM, 5PM, 9PM. The last watering is
important because it will leave it wet for a long time, long enough for the
seed to soak it up.