A smaller version of the wiring diagram is he
http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gr...ng_Diagram.jpg

Thanks,
Teffy

Teffy wrote:
While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
is 15 years old.

When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.

The wiring diagram is shown he
http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gr...iagram-big.jpg

The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.

When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge
wires).
0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.

As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
neutral, my butt is in the seat.

The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts.

What do you think is wrong with the mower?

Thanks,
Teffy

with key on you only have 8 volts at solenoid (brown) I would check for bad
battery/connections and have battery load tested to see if it is good

with a good battery and 12V going to solenoid brown with key on check for
12V to starter if no volt are at starter solenoid is bad. if with a good
battery and you do have 12 V at starter check for bad ground and connections
,

if battery and coinnections are good then starter is suspect do a voltage
drop test on the starting circuit see where the power is going is it is the
starter it will show up in this test.

Dr. Doctor wrote:

with key on you only have 8 volts at solenoid (brown) I would check for bad
battery/connections and have battery load tested to see if it is good

with a good battery and 12V going to solenoid brown with key on check for
12V to starter if no volt are at starter solenoid is bad. if with a good
battery and you do have 12 V at starter check for bad ground and connections
,

if battery and coinnections are good then starter is suspect do a voltage
drop test on the starting circuit see where the power is going is it is the
starter it will show up in this test.




=============
All good advice....BUT a solenoid is usually a quick and easy part to
swap out...and are cheap...
That clicking sound is very familiar to anyone who has ever owned a
Small Block Chevy equipped with headers etc... The heat generated by the
exhaust really plays havoc with the solenoids on those starters... It
is one case where Ford really had a better idea... lol
BUT
My International Cub did this same thing last week... and I pulled out
the voltmeter and determined the solenoid was bad... Cost me 14 bucks
for a selonoid....while at the parts counter I checked the price of a
starter ...$134 bucks... which was about twice what I thought it would
cost !!!

Bob Griffiths
Just in case anyone does own a SBC that suffers from Heat Soak... the
problem can be fixed
for 5 bucks by replacing the solenoid spring with GM spring number
1958679 Believe me I know.... lol