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Old 07-09-2003, 04:42 PM
Seymour
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground, black and red ants. I've spent
the last 2 years trying to improve it by fertilizing, seeding, weed
and feed, Scott's lawn soil. It seems the more I try, the worse it
gets. The crab grass halter I put down in the spring didn't do
anything.
I'm thinking of borrowing my father's Rototiller and diggin the whole
thing up and overseeding it. Anybody agree? I would think that this
is a good time to do it.
Please advise.
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Old 07-09-2003, 06:32 PM
Peter H
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch


"Tom Jaszewski" wrote in message
...
On 7 Sep 2003 07:36:18 -0700, (Seymour)
wrote:

I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground, black and red ants. I've spent
the last 2 years trying to improve it by fertilizing, seeding, weed
and feed, Scott's lawn soil. It seems the more I try, the worse it
gets. The crab grass halter I put down in the spring didn't do
anything.
I'm thinking of borrowing my father's Rototiller and diggin the whole
thing up and overseeding it. Anybody agree? I would think that this
is a good time to do it.
Please advise.

If you continue to "nuke" your lawn with all that crap from Scotts
you'll end up going full circle eventually ending up with the same
problems.

Rent a core aerator aerate the hell out of the lawn...at least 4
passes in diferent direction. Find a source of ACT aerated compost tea
and VAM and innoculate the soil. reseed and topdress with1/4-1/2 inch
of QUALITY compost. Halty soils and turf will outcompete weeds! Use a
mulching mower let the grass grow to the maximum height on your
mulching mower. Use organic fertilizers!

Be kind to the soil and see Scotts for what it is, marketing hype and
poison!


This post was created by someone who obviously knows nothing at all about
turf management. Follow his advice at your peril. Anyone who states that "
Halty ( healthy ) soils and turf will outcompete weeds" knows nothing about
turf management. I suspect the poster has an " agenda" and it has little to
do with turf management.

Peter H


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Old 07-09-2003, 06:42 PM
Peter H
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch


"Seymour" wrote in message
om...
I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground, black and red ants. I've spent
the last 2 years trying to improve it by fertilizing, seeding, weed
and feed, Scott's lawn soil. It seems the more I try, the worse it
gets. The crab grass halter I put down in the spring didn't do
anything.
I'm thinking of borrowing my father's Rototiller and diggin the whole
thing up and overseeding it. Anybody agree? I would think that this
is a good time to do it.
Please advise.


If it is as bad as you say then perhaps getting rid of the lawn and starting
from scratch is the best thing to do. I have seen many lawns returned from a
disastrous state without the type of major renovations you are considering
though.

I would caution you on a couple of things. First you should kill off
whatever you have growing there now, so an application or 2 of roundup is in
order. If you don't many of your problems will come back to haunt you.

Growing a lawn from seed is a tricky business. The weeds will move in
quickly and take it over. You won't be able to kill the weeds for fear of
also killing the new grass. When seeding a new lawn be prepared for it to
look shabby for a while until you can get it under control. Often it looks
quite bad for the first year.

If you are going to do it you should get at it fairly soon as you want to
kill the weeds of yourself and not let the frost get them and the fall is a
better time to seed a lawn than the spring.

btw. another consideration would be sodding the lawn. This has many
advantages as you start with a good-looking, weed-free lawn.

Peter H


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Old 08-09-2003, 01:12 AM
Dave Gower
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch


"Seymour" wrote in message
om...
I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground,


I radar in on the "hard ground". Sounds like the whole thing is a torture
chamber for plants.

I agree with rototilling. As deep as possible. Rake out any stones and
roots. Add a lot of peat-moss. It's a great slow-release fertilizer and
moisture retainer. Chemical fertilizers may burn the young plants.

Wouldn't hurt to hit the weeds with Roundup before you rototill. Wait a few
hours after you spray before tilling.

Use good quality seed suited to your situation (sunny/shady, wet/dry etc).
Use lots of it. Roll lightly to get it level (optional but useful). Cover
with straw or other biodegradable mulch. Water regularly.

This IS the best time. Start yesterday, day before that if possible.

Next spring, sharpen your lawnmower blade really well (dull blades can
damage tender grass). DON'T use weed or crabgrass killer next spring. It may
not kill the new grass, but it will sure slow it down.

Good luck.



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Old 08-09-2003, 01:42 AM
Tom Jaszewski
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

Any of you chemical advocates ever do more gardening than your own
yard?
Any experience or knowledge of horticulture products other than what
you see on TV?

I thought so.....




On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 19:07:40 -0400, "Dave Gower"
wrote:


"Seymour" wrote in message
. com...
I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground,


I radar in on the "hard ground". Sounds like the whole thing is a torture
chamber for plants.

I agree with rototilling. As deep as possible. Rake out any stones and
roots. Add a lot of peat-moss. It's a great slow-release fertilizer and
moisture retainer. Chemical fertilizers may burn the young plants.

Wouldn't hurt to hit the weeds with Roundup before you rototill. Wait a few
hours after you spray before tilling.

Use good quality seed suited to your situation (sunny/shady, wet/dry etc).
Use lots of it. Roll lightly to get it level (optional but useful). Cover
with straw or other biodegradable mulch. Water regularly.

This IS the best time. Start yesterday, day before that if possible.

Next spring, sharpen your lawnmower blade really well (dull blades can
damage tender grass). DON'T use weed or crabgrass killer next spring. It may
not kill the new grass, but it will sure slow it down.

Good luck.


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Old 08-09-2003, 02:02 AM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

Tom Jaszewski wrote:
Any of you chemical advocates ever do more gardening than your own
yard?
Any experience or knowledge of horticulture products other than what
you see on TV?

I thought so.....

I've forgotten more about lawn-care than you'll ever know, you top
posting blowhard.

--
GO #40
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Old 08-09-2003, 03:32 AM
Keith Corwell
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

Good luck to you have always read and heared work with what you have don't
tear the whole thing up. Be carful with the weed and feed on new grass
also. I use Scotts but I do think I pay for the name
"Seymour" wrote in message
om...
I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground, black and red ants. I've spent
the last 2 years trying to improve it by fertilizing, seeding, weed
and feed, Scott's lawn soil. It seems the more I try, the worse it
gets. The crab grass halter I put down in the spring didn't do
anything.
I'm thinking of borrowing my father's Rototiller and diggin the whole
thing up and overseeding it. Anybody agree? I would think that this
is a good time to do it.
Please advise.





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Old 08-09-2003, 03:42 AM
Tom Jaszewski
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

On 08 Sep 2003 00:54:06 GMT, wrote:

(paghat) wrote:
-paghat the ratgirl

Your crotch smells like limburger cheese.


Now Steve, you'll be alright...
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Old 08-09-2003, 04:42 AM
Bishop Don Magic Juan
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch



Dave Gower wrote:

Add a lot of peat-moss. It's a great slow-release fertilizer and
moisture retainer.


Peat moss may retain moisture, but its value as fertilizer is less than
zero.


Wouldn't hurt to hit the weeds with Roundup before you rototill. Wait a few
hours after you spray before tilling.


Completely off base. Must wait at least seven days for Roundup to do
its work. Tilling a few hours after application competely nullifies the
purpose of Roundup.

Where do people like you and Jaszewski get your mytholigical information?

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Old 08-09-2003, 01:13 PM
Tom Jaszewski
 
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Default Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

On Sun, 07 Sep 2003 22:40:01 -0400, Bishop Don Magic Juan
insertnamehere.co.uk wrote:

Where do people like you and Jaszewski get your mytholigical information?


Listen you anonymous putz, my information is based on real world
experience. Now go back to your corner!
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