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#1
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St Augustine Grass
BlankI'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply?
Thanks, Tim |
#2
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St Augustine Grass
Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message
... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. |
#3
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St Augustine Grass
Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message
... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. |
#4
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St Augustine Grass
You say you use "Image" to control nutsedge. I use a product called
"Manage" made by Monsanto. Have you perhaps confused the name or is there another product on the market to control nutsedge. I'd be curious to know. I've had very good luck with Manage. I's very specific and doesn't seem to harm most turf type grasses unless one goes WAY overboard on application. RoyDMercer wrote: Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message ... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. |
#5
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St Augustine Grass
I'm sure the product is called Image. It lists the active ingredient as
Ammonium salt of imazaquin. "Anonymous" wrote in message news:Q197c.52803$po.507954@attbi_s52... You say you use "Image" to control nutsedge. I use a product called "Manage" made by Monsanto. Have you perhaps confused the name or is there another product on the market to control nutsedge. I'd be curious to know. I've had very good luck with Manage. I's very specific and doesn't seem to harm most turf type grasses unless one goes WAY overboard on application. RoyDMercer wrote: Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message ... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. |
#6
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St Augustine Grass
RoyDMercer wrote:
I'm sure the product is called Image. It lists the active ingredient as Ammonium salt of imazaquin. "Anonymous" wrote in message news:Q197c.52803$po.507954@attbi_s52... You say you use "Image" to control nutsedge. I use a product called "Manage" made by Monsanto. Have you perhaps confused the name or is there another product on the market to control nutsedge. I'd be curious to know. I've had very good luck with Manage. I's very specific and doesn't seem to harm most turf type grasses unless one goes WAY overboard on application. RoyDMercer wrote: Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message ... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. See http://www.pestproducts.com/herbicides.htm |
#7
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St Augustine Grass
I remembered why I don't use Manage. Manage comes in packets and is quite
expensive. Image comes in a liquid concentrate. Image is expensive also, but when I figured out the cost per 1,000 sq ft treated, Image was cheaper by about 50%. "Anonymous" wrote in message news:Q197c.52803$po.507954@attbi_s52... You say you use "Image" to control nutsedge. I use a product called "Manage" made by Monsanto. Have you perhaps confused the name or is there another product on the market to control nutsedge. I'd be curious to know. I've had very good luck with Manage. I's very specific and doesn't seem to harm most turf type grasses unless one goes WAY overboard on application. RoyDMercer wrote: Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message ... I'm in Southern Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply? Tim, I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but Bermuda and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar characteristics. I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's worth. Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season grasses. It's a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of the product is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied in May when the grass really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work better for cool season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before the emergence of weeds. It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn for weeds. What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product you should use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the weeds you are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good nursery and they can help you identify them. Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used other similar products with good results also. Read the labels before you buy because some of these products are not recommended for St Augustine grass. Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the concentrate and put it in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage recommended by the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know how to identify those weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds will be dead or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any. Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf weeds along with crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in big clumps (like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it doesn't grow in clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few weeds, I keep Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot treat small weed investations. Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything that's green. If it's green, and you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even trees. If your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the crabgrass with Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn all around the sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of plants. I use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on the bark of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas. Later on in the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass, but they only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that works on nutgrass is a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be applied in late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's OK on St Augustine. Always read the labels carefully. Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area, phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not important until your fall fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What you want to look for is a product that has a high first number with the other two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products which are slow release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply fertilizer when my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but less often later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer (they are cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly what your fertilizer needs are. |
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