Proper grass height.
 

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *

Proper grass height.
 

wrote:
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:

wrote:
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.


Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom




************************ Our Sites *************************************
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Proper grass height.
 

--


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wrote in message
...
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom

Sounds like you're cutting at the right height. I cut my Fescue at 3".

Proper grass height.
 

wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:


wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




*********************************************** ****
http://www.Intertainia.com
*********************************************** ****


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.



Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom

Are you fertilizing? How long has the lawn been there? Do you have a lot
of thatch? How long has it been since you aerated? Taller grass does
encourage lateral growth of the roots which will fill in most bare spots
unless you have a lot of thatch.


--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 17:23:16 GMT, GFRfan wrote:

wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:


wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




********************************************** *****
http://www.Intertainia.com
********************************************** *****


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.



Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom

Are you fertilizing? How long has the lawn been there? Do you have a lot
of thatch? How long has it been since you aerated? Taller grass does
encourage lateral growth of the roots which will fill in most bare spots
unless you have a lot of thatch.


I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.

Even though i use a mulching lawnmower, the dirt is nice and brown, no
acculumation of thatch.

I have not areated at all. Will this help, and what techniques work
best?

thanks,

tom





***************** Check Us Out *****************

http://www.FindMeShelter.com
Free Text Real Estate Ads!
FSBO's and Agents Welcomed.

Proper grass height.
 

wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 17:23:16 GMT, GFRfan wrote:


wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:



wrote:


Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




********************************************* ******
http://www.Intertainia.com
********************************************* ******


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.



Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom

Are you fertilizing? How long has the lawn been there? Do you have a lot
of thatch? How long has it been since you aerated? Taller grass does
encourage lateral growth of the roots which will fill in most bare spots
unless you have a lot of thatch.



I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.

Even though i use a mulching lawnmower, the dirt is nice and brown, no
acculumation of thatch.

I have not areated at all. Will this help, and what techniques work
best?

thanks,

tom


Is your soil clay? Yes aerating will help immensely. Also, sounds like
you could use some peat moss spread before you aerate. Sounds like you
are doing a good job so far of healing what once was a very sick yard.
If your yard is lumpy you may need to use a water filled roller to
smooth it a bit. If you have a drainage problem then other steps need to
be taken. You may not have to go to this extreme but here is a bit of info:

http://tinyurl.com/2r76b


--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn.


I agree there. My lazy neighbors let it get way too long, then scalp
it down to nothing. This way they only have to mow about every 10-14
days. Needless to say, the first dry spell and they have a brown
lawn.

I keep mine at 3" and mow when it's about 4". I don't mow just
because someone else is mowing theirs, or because it's Saturday, or
whatever. 3" is nice and thick, and if it gets a little shaggy after
only a few days, it doesn't bother me. I also edge, which gives it a
very manicured look. It also tricks the eye into thinking the lawn
was just mowed (I think), which lets me get away with longer grass. :)

Proper grass height.
 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 19:58:04 GMT, GFRfan wrote:

wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 17:23:16 GMT, GFRfan wrote:


wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:



wrote:


Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




******************************************** *******
http://www.Intertainia.com
******************************************** *******


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.



Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom

Are you fertilizing? How long has the lawn been there? Do you have a lot
of thatch? How long has it been since you aerated? Taller grass does
encourage lateral growth of the roots which will fill in most bare spots
unless you have a lot of thatch.



I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.

Even though i use a mulching lawnmower, the dirt is nice and brown, no
acculumation of thatch.

I have not areated at all. Will this help, and what techniques work
best?

thanks,

tom


Is your soil clay? Yes aerating will help immensely. Also, sounds like
you could use some peat moss spread before you aerate. Sounds like you
are doing a good job so far of healing what once was a very sick yard.
If your yard is lumpy you may need to use a water filled roller to
smooth it a bit. If you have a drainage problem then other steps need to
be taken. You may not have to go to this extreme but here is a bit of info:

http://tinyurl.com/2r76b


We're about 100 ft from a stream and uphill of it. As for soil, it
seems very orgainic, hold water very well, and weeds love it. :)

Wouldn't rolling the yard really compress and damage the grass roots?

thx for the link.

tom



***************** Check Us Out *****************

http://www.FindMeShelter.com
Free Text Real Estate Ads!
FSBO's and Agents Welcomed.

Proper grass height.
 

wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 19:58:04 GMT, GFRfan wrote:


wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2004 17:23:16 GMT, GFRfan wrote:



wrote:


On Mon, 03 May 2004 16:21:17 GMT, GFRfan wrote:




wrote:



Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




******************************************* ********
http://www.Intertainia.com
******************************************* ********


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.



Thx for the quick reply. I'm in eastern Pa. My next door neighbor
goes down to the point the grass is white. My other neighbors appear
to go to 2"

My law also looks like a bad hair transfer if you go down to the dirt
level, there are many little bald spots. Does taller grass cause the
grass to use the extra enegy to spread sideways?

thanks,

tom

Are you fertilizing? How long has the lawn been there? Do you have a lot
of thatch? How long has it been since you aerated? Taller grass does
encourage lateral growth of the roots which will fill in most bare spots
unless you have a lot of thatch.



I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.

Even though i use a mulching lawnmower, the dirt is nice and brown, no
acculumation of thatch.

I have not areated at all. Will this help, and what techniques work
best?

thanks,

tom


Is your soil clay? Yes aerating will help immensely. Also, sounds like
you could use some peat moss spread before you aerate. Sounds like you
are doing a good job so far of healing what once was a very sick yard.
If your yard is lumpy you may need to use a water filled roller to
smooth it a bit. If you have a drainage problem then other steps need to
be taken. You may not have to go to this extreme but here is a bit of info:

http://tinyurl.com/2r76b



We're about 100 ft from a stream and uphill of it. As for soil, it
seems very orgainic, hold water very well, and weeds love it. :)

Wouldn't rolling the yard really compress and damage the grass roots?

thx for the link.

tom


Without actually seeing your yard it's hard to say if rolling will help
flatten the lumps but it won't hurt the roots. Especially if you aerate
the lawn first. The best aerater to use is a plug aerater which you can
rent. They make a bit of a mess on the lawn for a very short time but
the benefits far outway that. Those slicer and star aeraters just seem
to actually compress the soil more. Aerating will also help with the
drainage.
What I'd do, site unseen of course, is in this order:
1. spread a little sand around (optional, will help drainage)
2. core aerate (aeration will encourage lateral root growth and also
allow fertilizer and water to reach the roots.)
3. roll the lawn with a water filled lawn roller (also can be rented)
4. fertilize (if you haven't yet this year. You really shouldn't
fertilize more than twice a year, with slow release fertilizer.)
Like I said, without actually seeing the yard I'd guess that the groung
is staying too wet and compacted and you have a shallow root system.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 21:24:37 GMT, wrote:


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn.


I agree there. My lazy neighbors let it get way too long, then scalp
it down to nothing. This way they only have to mow about every 10-14
days. Needless to say, the first dry spell and they have a brown
lawn.

I keep mine at 3" and mow when it's about 4". I don't mow just
because someone else is mowing theirs, or because it's Saturday, or
whatever. 3" is nice and thick, and if it gets a little shaggy after
only a few days, it doesn't bother me. I also edge, which gives it a
very manicured look. It also tricks the eye into thinking the lawn
was just mowed (I think), which lets me get away with longer grass. :)

Yeah, when it's edged it looks real nice. I done it a few times with
the weed wacker but such a pain. I have a very small property, so
gunna get that tool that looks like a kung-fu weapon.

Figure if the neightbors mow any closer to my yard, I have to 'edge'
them. :-P


tom
***************** Check Us Out *****************

http://www.CarFleaMarket.com

We help you sell off-line as well as online.

Proper grass height.
 

"GFRfan" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year, once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H

Proper grass height.
 

Peter H wrote:
"GFRfan" wrote in message
...

wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




*********************************************** ****
http://www.Intertainia.com
*********************************************** ****


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman


I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year, once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H




I'm curious. I think I'll try your way on part of my land and see if it
is better.
I agree on the cutting of 1/3 of the blade, fertilizing only in spring
and fall (to avoid burn) and cutting it shorter for the winter. I still
think 1 1/2 inches is too short but I'll find out if you're right. I'll
post back the results in a year. Always open to different ideas. Thanks.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

"Peter H" wrote in message
et.cable.rogers.com...

"GFRfan" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it,
to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at
about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and
disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year,
once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H

Actually mowing higher will prevent some weed growth because the taller
grass will shade the soil which prevents weed seeds from germinating.
However keeping grass mowed shorter encourages deeper root growth and
thicker lawns, which prevents weeds also.

I have a warm season grass (Bermuda) I leave it tall in the fall and
throughout the winter and early spring (when the grass is dormant) and weeds
are actively trying to germinate. Later in the spring when the grass starts
to come out of dormancy, I gradually cut it lower each time until I reach 1
1/2 inches. I leave it short throughout the growing season for the reasons
you mentioned. Proper mowing height is dependant on what type of grass you
have. Hybrid Bermuda does well cut as short as 1/2", but some grass
varieties need to be as much as 3-4" to do well.

I prefer to use pre-emergent products to prevent weeds rather than blanket
spraying for them. Whatever makes it past the pre-emergence, I spot treat.

You are very correct about cutting no more than 1/3rd of the blade's height.
I actually shoot for 1/4 of the blade's height. So right now I'm mowing
every 3-4 days. The shorter your grass is the more often you need to mow.
Also, the shorter you mow your lawn, the less water it needs to stay
healthy.

Proper grass height.
 

I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.


the lumps are cause by worms sometimes. . if you dig a few up, you might notice
worms in them and they are probably under the main grass "plant".

Proper grass height.
 

We're about 100 ft from a stream and uphill of it. As for soil, it
seems very orgainic, hold water very well, and weeds love it. :)

Wouldn't rolling the yard really compress and damage the grass roots?

the grass root is not that delicate. the grass roots can go several inches below
the soil surface. the wide surface area of the roller is not narrow enough to
ruin the soil surface area and harm the grass roots.

Proper grass height.
 

I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at about
1 1/2".

shorter grass promotes root growth. less grass plant means more energy towards
the roots...

Proper grass height.
 

DIE SPAMMER !!! wrote:
I just moved in under two years ago(aug 03), but I figure the lawn is
from when the house was built(93). The lawn wasn't very healthy.
Come the first spring here, even with alot of rain(2003), the yard had
large brown patches. I checked the grass when I was putting down fert
spikes for our trees, and the grass came up in sheets with lots of
grubs. All of 2003 I seeded(before crabgrass preventor), fertilized(4
step program), and milky spored the yard. Now it's 2004, the yard
looks nice and dark green, but if you go down to the dirt level, it's
got lines and bare dirt. Weird how my yard is very lumpy, figure
it's cause the dirt doesn't seem to dry out.



the lumps are cause by worms sometimes. . if you dig a few up, you might notice
worms in them and they are probably under the main grass "plant".



And that would also account for the "lines" you reported.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

Proper grass height.
 

Steveo wrote:
wrote:

We're about 100 ft from a stream and uphill of it. As for soil, it
seems very orgainic, hold water very well, and weeds love it. :)

Wouldn't rolling the yard really compress and damage the grass roots?

the grass root is not that delicate. the grass roots can go several
inches below the soil surface. the wide surface area of the roller is not
narrow enough to ruin the soil surface area and harm the grass roots.


Rolling compresses the soil. It defeats your lawn aeration job pronto.

It's good for knocking down mole and worm hills, and maybe a few small
ruts. That's it.


If you core aerate, the roller will simply compress any lumps you have
in the soil. It will not collapse the core holes enough to be a problem.
Actually I find rolling to be more effective when tilling and reseeding
but it does help some on "bumpy soil.
And I've always mowed my bluegrass, fescue mix at 2 1/2" in spring and
3" in summer. Never had any trouble with bare spots.
I live in Iowa.
Good thread though. Does give me pause for thought.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

Proper grass height.
 

GFRfan wrote:
Steveo wrote:
wrote:

We're about 100 ft from a stream and uphill of it. As for soil, it
seems very orgainic, hold water very well, and weeds love it. :)

Wouldn't rolling the yard really compress and damage the grass roots?

the grass root is not that delicate. the grass roots can go several
inches below the soil surface. the wide surface area of the roller is
not narrow enough to ruin the soil surface area and harm the grass
roots.


Rolling compresses the soil. It defeats your lawn aeration job pronto.

It's good for knocking down mole and worm hills, and maybe a few small
ruts. That's it.


If you core aerate, the roller will simply compress any lumps you have
in the soil. It will not collapse the core holes enough to be a problem.

If it doesn't compress the soil, it's not doing anything.

--
I won't retire, but I might retread.

Proper grass height.
 

On Tue, 04 May 2004 01:09:12 GMT, GFRfan wrote:

Peter H wrote:
"GFRfan" wrote in message
...

wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




********************************************** *****
http://www.Intertainia.com
********************************************** *****


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman


I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year, once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H




I'm curious. I think I'll try your way on part of my land and see if it
is better.
I agree on the cutting of 1/3 of the blade, fertilizing only in spring
and fall (to avoid burn) and cutting it shorter for the winter. I still
think 1 1/2 inches is too short but I'll find out if you're right. I'll
post back the results in a year. Always open to different ideas. Thanks.


I too have a problem with the 1-1/2" height thing, enough that I don't
think I'll experiment with that. But the rest makes sense.

In scotts 4 step there is a summer guard step, why would you not fert
in the summer?

tom







***************** Check Us Out *****************

http://www.CarFleaMarket.com

We help you sell off-line as well as online.

Proper grass height.
 

On Mon, 3 May 2004 20:40:17 -0500, "RoyDMercer"
wrote:

"Peter H" wrote in message
. net.cable.rogers.com...

"GFRfan" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




************************************************** *
http://www.Intertainia.com
************************************************** *


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman

I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut it,
to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at
about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and
disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year,
once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H

Actually mowing higher will prevent some weed growth because the taller
grass will shade the soil which prevents weed seeds from germinating.
However keeping grass mowed shorter encourages deeper root growth and
thicker lawns, which prevents weeds also.

I have a warm season grass (Bermuda) I leave it tall in the fall and
throughout the winter and early spring (when the grass is dormant) and weeds
are actively trying to germinate. Later in the spring when the grass starts
to come out of dormancy, I gradually cut it lower each time until I reach 1
1/2 inches. I leave it short throughout the growing season for the reasons
you mentioned. Proper mowing height is dependant on what type of grass you
have. Hybrid Bermuda does well cut as short as 1/2", but some grass
varieties need to be as much as 3-4" to do well.

I prefer to use pre-emergent products to prevent weeds rather than blanket
spraying for them. Whatever makes it past the pre-emergence, I spot treat.

You are very correct about cutting no more than 1/3rd of the blade's height.
I actually shoot for 1/4 of the blade's height. So right now I'm mowing
every 3-4 days. The shorter your grass is the more often you need to mow.
Also, the shorter you mow your lawn, the less water it needs to stay
healthy.


The Shorter the mowing, less watering? I heard shorter the grass more
likely it will dry out. Can you explain?

thx,

tom




************************ Our Sites *************************************
http://www.CarFleaMarket.com - Auto Classifieds.
http://www.FindMeShelter.com - Post Free Text House Ads.
http://www.PeekABooLinks.com - Adults Only! Free Galleries.
http://www.VoyeurJunction.com - Adults Only! Free Galleries.
************************************************** ***********************

Proper grass height.
 

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 3 May 2004 20:40:17 -0500, "RoyDMercer"
wrote:
Actually mowing higher will prevent some weed growth because the taller
grass will shade the soil which prevents weed seeds from germinating.
However keeping grass mowed shorter encourages deeper root growth and
thicker lawns, which prevents weeds also.

I have a warm season grass (Bermuda) I leave it tall in the fall and
throughout the winter and early spring (when the grass is dormant) and
weeds
are actively trying to germinate. Later in the spring when the grass
starts
to come out of dormancy, I gradually cut it lower each time until I reach
1
1/2 inches. I leave it short throughout the growing season for the
reasons
you mentioned. Proper mowing height is dependant on what type of grass
you
have. Hybrid Bermuda does well cut as short as 1/2", but some grass
varieties need to be as much as 3-4" to do well.

I prefer to use pre-emergent products to prevent weeds rather than
blanket
spraying for them. Whatever makes it past the pre-emergence, I spot
treat.

You are very correct about cutting no more than 1/3rd of the blade's
height.
I actually shoot for 1/4 of the blade's height. So right now I'm mowing
every 3-4 days. The shorter your grass is the more often you need to
mow.
Also, the shorter you mow your lawn, the less water it needs to stay
healthy.


The Shorter the mowing, less watering? I heard shorter the grass more
likely it will dry out. Can you explain?

I was referring to lawns mowed much higher than recommended. If you are
mowing so short that the soil is exposed, then yes, the soil will dry out
and you'll need to water more. However longer grass equates to a higher
Water Use Rate (WUR). The reason for this is because the higher the leaf
area, the more water will be lost to transpiration. This is why it's
important to mow at the proper height, for the lawn type you have. If the
lawn is mowed way too short, the soil can be exposed and water can be lost
to soil evaporation. If the lawn is mowed way too long, water will be lost
to excessive transpiration.

Quite a few horticultural publications and web sites recommend allowing
grass to grow longer to decrease irrigation rates. What many of them don't
tell you is letting the grass get too long has the reverse effect.

Proper grass height.
 

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 May 2004 01:09:12 GMT, GFRfan wrote:

Peter H wrote:
"GFRfan" wrote in message
...

wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?

Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.

I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"

Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.

later,

tom




********************************************** *****
http://www.Intertainia.com
********************************************** *****


I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely
on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most
weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.

--
Yard and Garden Handyman


I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut
it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot
and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at
about
1 1/2".

When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the
same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I
found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and
disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year,
once
in spring and once in the fall.

That's my perspective anyway.

Peter H




I'm curious. I think I'll try your way on part of my land and see if it
is better.
I agree on the cutting of 1/3 of the blade, fertilizing only in spring
and fall (to avoid burn) and cutting it shorter for the winter. I still
think 1 1/2 inches is too short but I'll find out if you're right. I'll
post back the results in a year. Always open to different ideas. Thanks.


I too have a problem with the 1-1/2" height thing, enough that I don't
think I'll experiment with that. But the rest makes sense.

In scotts 4 step there is a summer guard step, why would you not fert
in the summer?

tom


The grasses you are growing are what are considered to be "cool-season
turfgrasses". These varieties only want to grow when the temperature is from
about 50 degrees to 80F or thereabouts. If it gets any warmer they try to
shut down and go dormant. You can, of course, force them to grow through the
heat of the summer by fertilizing and/or watering them, but there is a down
side. You set them up for disease infestation.

Homeowners with sprinkler systems are the most susceptible. When I was in
the business I used to cringe when I was quoting a lawn with a sprinkler
system, particularly if I knew the owner was a real keener.

Peter H

Proper grass height.
 

"Peter H" wrote:
Homeowners with sprinkler systems are the most susceptible.

Bull,cool season turfgrass needs water. There's no better way of applying
it than with an irrigation system.

When I was in
the business I used to cringe when I was quoting a lawn with a sprinkler
system, particularly if I knew the owner was a real keener.

Peter H

It's a good thing you got out of the business then. I'd guess 50% of
the lawns I service have irrigation systems. The people who don't
water present more problems than those that do.

--
I won't retire, but I might retread.