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Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked
pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"FGreen" wrote in message om... My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. You go crazy and put in a new lawn, but I'd try just spraying the weeds and fertilizing first. If you're worried about the spray hire someone and have everyone stay off the lawn for a couple of days. Peter H |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Peter H" wrote in message ers.com...
"FGreen" wrote in message om... My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. You go crazy and put in a new lawn, but I'd try just spraying the weeds and fertilizing first. If you're worried about the spray hire someone and have everyone stay off the lawn for a couple of days. Peter H Thanks for your response. Either I wasn't clear or you only noticed the subject and a few lines of description, but we're trying to stay as much away from chemicals as possible. It involves the neighbors, so I don't have complete say in the matter. Of course your idea was considered at first, but is a no-go at this point, until we understand all other options. So, back to my original questions - if you or anyone else can help, that'd be much appreciated. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
On Wed, 12 May 2004 08:03:43 -0700, FGreen wrote:
My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. Good day FGreen. Sorry to hear about your poor quailty lawn. It can be a real bummer to have a weed patch instead of a lawn. Before we get too far, I have some questions: What is the mowing hight of the lawn? 1", 2", 3"..? What have you done in the past 6 years as far as fertilizer? Do you water the lawn in the summer? Do you let the lawn go dormant in the summer? Have you ever aerated your lawn? Do you re-cycle your lawn clippings (multching mow)? On to fixing the lawn.......... If the soil quality is poor, then I would start by trying to correct that first. You can compensate for poor soil quailty by using fertilizers and multch mowing. Over time (possibily a long time) the soil quality wil get better. If the organic matter (humus) is very low, it would be best to add new soil / compost. If you find this is the case, then you could overlay the lawn with compost and till it. Look at my post to FardinA on 5/8/2004 at 6:54 pm. I goes through the refurbishing of a lawn with costs and tool requirements. There is no need to hire out for this type of a job. The average home owner can do this, although the amount of labor required may be too much for some. If the lawn is somewhat large (1500+ square feet) then you would want to rent a tractor for the day. Rent one with a bucket on the front and a tiller on the back. This can cost up to $300.00 a day, but it's worth every penny. You can till the whole area in a few hours and the bucket will make the huge pile of dirt spread a lot faster 80) . I personaly would re-seed the lawn with locally available seed. This means seed for your area. Beware of name brand seed from big box stores. Just because they sell brand X seed at home depo doesn't mean it's correct for your area. More question etc... just add to this thread. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Timothy, thanks for the response.
Good day FGreen. Sorry to hear about your poor quailty lawn. It can be a real bummer to have a weed patch instead of a lawn. Before we get too far, I have some questions: What is the mowing hight of the lawn? 1", 2", 3"..? What have you done in the past 6 years as far as fertilizer? Do you water the lawn in the summer? Do you let the lawn go dormant in the summer? Have you ever aerated your lawn? Do you re-cycle your lawn clippings (multching mow)? mowing height depends - where there is grass, ~2-3", on bare spots, 0", on dandelion spots, 8+"... ha... sorry for being a smartmouth. I try to keep it high enough to block the weeds, but the situation has reversed itself. We put fertilizers in the fall, once a year. We water infrequently in the summer (to let it go dormant..?) aeration hasn't been done since it was sodded (I know, a mistake) Yes, we use mulching mower. We haven't been very deligent about keeping it up, I have to say. On to fixing the lawn.......... If the soil quality is poor, then I would start by trying to correct that first. You can compensate for poor soil quailty by using fertilizers and multch mowing. Over time (possibily a long time) the soil quality wil get better. If the organic matter (humus) is very low, it would be best to add new soil / compost. If you find this is the case, then you could overlay the lawn with compost and till it. Look at my post to FardinA on 5/8/2004 at 6:54 pm. I goes through the refurbishing of a lawn with costs and tool requirements. Yes, I have read that post from you before posting my question. It was probably the closest to what I was looking for and most helpful post I found in search. The only difference would be, we already have a lawn (weed lawn). Do I till it up, or just put new soil on top? Do I need to use chemicals to kill the existing weeds? My situation is, we're planning on selling the place, and want to make the lawn look good in short timeframe. Don't have the time to wait for seed to germinate, etc., because I need to act quickly once . I don't want to spend too much money, but then I don't want do a non-even-a-half-ass job like the builder did, either. Is it ok to till up the existing lawn, add some soil, till up some more, and lay down the sod, without adding any weed killers? Again, there's quite a bit of weeds, but I'm trying not to use chemicals if at all possible. My lawn is ~1000-1100 sq.ft, by the way. There is no need to hire out for this type of a job. The average home owner can do this, although the amount of labor required may be too much for some. If the lawn is somewhat large (1500+ square feet) then you would want to rent a tractor for the day. Rent one with a bucket on the front and a tiller on the back. This can cost up to $300.00 a day, but it's worth every penny. You can till the whole area in a few hours and the bucket will make the huge pile of dirt spread a lot faster 80) . I personaly would re-seed the lawn with locally available seed. This means seed for your area. Beware of name brand seed from big box stores. Just because they sell brand X seed at home depo doesn't mean it's correct for your area. More question etc... just add to this thread. Posting this very late, so I might have left some questions out... I really appreciate your help. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
The first thing I would do is figure out what kind of soil you have,
beyond the fact that it is rocky. Grass won't grow on rocks. If you have some half way decent soil with rocks mixed in, you can till and remove the rocks, especially since you only have 1000 sq ft to worry about. You can also till in some humus type material, or additional good topsoil. You should also have the soil tested to establish the correct PH. On the other hand, if what you have is mostly rocks and gravel, then you need at least 6 inchs of decent top soil, preferably 9 inchs. Whether this can go on top of what is there becomes a grading issue. If it can't then you need to have what's there removed. If you wind up tilling what is there, I would use Roundup to kill all the existing plants. Roundup is one of the safested chemicals and you can reseed a week after application. Since you're in a hurry, you're going to have to go with sod. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
- Cover the ground with an opaque tarp for two weeks to kill the weeds - bring in good topsoil, enough for 2-3 inches depth of coverage, 20% oragnic for fast growth - seed using high quality brand name seed, eg. Scot's Will be much cheaper than sodding or hydroseeding, even if you use the expensive topsoil. Using good soilk and seed, along with regular watering 91-2 times a day depending on how wet your weather is) should get you grass in under two weeks. I did it in July and had new grass in six days, but in 2-3 weeks it was much more mature and spread out. "FGreen" wrote in message om... My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Well, if you're looking for a short term fix to sell the house, I'd probably
patch it with top soil and lawn patch mix, the stuff that is seed + mulch + fertilizer in one, and water it a lot. Can't guarantee any short term fix though, good results will take some time. Or you could just spray paint everything green! "FGreen" wrote in message om... Timothy, thanks for the response. Good day FGreen. Sorry to hear about your poor quailty lawn. It can be a real bummer to have a weed patch instead of a lawn. Before we get too far, I have some questions: What is the mowing hight of the lawn? 1", 2", 3"..? What have you done in the past 6 years as far as fertilizer? Do you water the lawn in the summer? Do you let the lawn go dormant in the summer? Have you ever aerated your lawn? Do you re-cycle your lawn clippings (multching mow)? mowing height depends - where there is grass, ~2-3", on bare spots, 0", on dandelion spots, 8+"... ha... sorry for being a smartmouth. I try to keep it high enough to block the weeds, but the situation has reversed itself. We put fertilizers in the fall, once a year. We water infrequently in the summer (to let it go dormant..?) aeration hasn't been done since it was sodded (I know, a mistake) Yes, we use mulching mower. We haven't been very deligent about keeping it up, I have to say. On to fixing the lawn.......... If the soil quality is poor, then I would start by trying to correct that first. You can compensate for poor soil quailty by using fertilizers and multch mowing. Over time (possibily a long time) the soil quality wil get better. If the organic matter (humus) is very low, it would be best to add new soil / compost. If you find this is the case, then you could overlay the lawn with compost and till it. Look at my post to FardinA on 5/8/2004 at 6:54 pm. I goes through the refurbishing of a lawn with costs and tool requirements. Yes, I have read that post from you before posting my question. It was probably the closest to what I was looking for and most helpful post I found in search. The only difference would be, we already have a lawn (weed lawn). Do I till it up, or just put new soil on top? Do I need to use chemicals to kill the existing weeds? My situation is, we're planning on selling the place, and want to make the lawn look good in short timeframe. Don't have the time to wait for seed to germinate, etc., because I need to act quickly once . I don't want to spend too much money, but then I don't want do a non-even-a-half-ass job like the builder did, either. Is it ok to till up the existing lawn, add some soil, till up some more, and lay down the sod, without adding any weed killers? Again, there's quite a bit of weeds, but I'm trying not to use chemicals if at all possible. My lawn is ~1000-1100 sq.ft, by the way. There is no need to hire out for this type of a job. The average home owner can do this, although the amount of labor required may be too much for some. If the lawn is somewhat large (1500+ square feet) then you would want to rent a tractor for the day. Rent one with a bucket on the front and a tiller on the back. This can cost up to $300.00 a day, but it's worth every penny. You can till the whole area in a few hours and the bucket will make the huge pile of dirt spread a lot faster 80) . I personaly would re-seed the lawn with locally available seed. This means seed for your area. Beware of name brand seed from big box stores. Just because they sell brand X seed at home depo doesn't mean it's correct for your area. More question etc... just add to this thread. Posting this very late, so I might have left some questions out... I really appreciate your help. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass")
Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. "Fisher Price" wrote in message ... - Cover the ground with an opaque tarp for two weeks to kill the weeds - bring in good topsoil, enough for 2-3 inches depth of coverage, 20% oragnic for fast growth - seed using high quality brand name seed, eg. Scot's Will be much cheaper than sodding or hydroseeding, even if you use the expensive topsoil. Using good soilk and seed, along with regular watering 91-2 times a day depending on how wet your weather is) should get you grass in under two weeks. I did it in July and had new grass in six days, but in 2-3 weeks it was much more mature and spread out. "FGreen" wrote in message om... My lawn is ~6 years old, was new when I bought the place. It looked pretty good initially, but later I realized that the ground where the sod was placed didn't have good soil at all. Pretty rocky, and had a heck of time planting a small tree (which looks sickly and isn't blooming much flowers at all). The lawn now has a lot of dandelions, I mean, a lot. I used one of those extraction tools from Home Depot. It does a decent job, but the roots are rarely taken out completely, and there are just too many. Too many to even use weed-b-gone selectively. So, I'm thinking of redoing the lawn, probably in the fall, and need your help. I'm thinking I need to - Till up the ground - Kill the existing dandelions/weeds with...? - Put in good soil - Put in new grass (hydroseed? sod?) (I know I need to do more studying on it, but need to discuss it with a neighbor that shares the lawn in this 2-family home, so basics would be sufficient for now.) My questions are... - What tools do I need, if I do it myself? I only have basic gardening tools. Rent a rototiller? - Is there a way to get rid of existing weeds without using chemicals, once the lawn is dug up? Cover it up to choke it? We've got dogs and young children. - If not, how long would it take for it to be 'safe' for dogs and children? It'd still be a dug up ground, but you know how kids are... they love dirt! - Would I be better off hiring someone? (I know that's a very subjective question...) I'm in New England and the lawn get a lot of sun. I don't think I'd need the soil analyzed, since whatever is there is just almost rocks, and I'd be putting in new soil. I'd appreciate any help. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"William W. Plummer" wrote:
Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? -- I won't retire, but I might retread. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
On Thu, 13 May 2004 22:05:01 -0700, FGreen wrote:
mowing height depends - where there is grass, ~2-3", on bare spots, 0", on dandelion spots, 8+"... ha... sorry for being a smartmouth. I try to keep it high enough to block the weeds, but the situation has reversed itself. Good mowing hight.... We put fertilizers in the fall, once a year. We water infrequently in the summer (to let it go dormant..?) aeration hasn't been done since it was sodded (I know, a mistake) Yes, we use mulching mower. We haven't been very deligent about keeping it up, I have to say. I would tend to fertilize twice a year. I would use half in the spring and half in the fall. It's good to boost the grass in the spring when the nitrogen is low in the soil. Nitrogen is a non-fixed element that moves with water. After the run off of winter, nitrogen is at it's lowest. Yes, I have read that post from you before posting my question. It was probably the closest to what I was looking for and most helpful post I found in search. The only difference would be, we already have a lawn (weed lawn). Do I till it up, or just put new soil on top? Do I need to use chemicals to kill the existing weeds? My situation is, we're planning on selling the place, and want to make the lawn look good in short timeframe. Don't have the time to wait for seed to germinate, etc., because I need to act quickly once . I don't want to spend too much money, but then I don't want do a non-even-a-half-ass job like the builder did, either. With the short time frame, non-chemical requirements and price range, your situation is a bit difficult. No matter how you spin it, sod isn't cheap. If you were to do sod, you could just over lay the native soil after letting a non-selective herbicide do it's work. You would be able to spray and lay with in two weeks. While others rave over Round-up.. I personaly won't touch the stuff. It's a rather toxic chemical and there's lots of proof via the net for those who wish to look for it. I use Finale (product name) or any product with glufosinate ammonium as the main active ingredient. Here's the spec sheet on it: http://www.horizononline.com/msds_sh...f/finale25.pdf Page 8 and onward you'll find the toxic's report. Looks rather good to me and the enviroment and that's why I use it in my business. Is it ok to till up the existing lawn, add some soil, till up some more, and lay down the sod, without adding any weed killers? Again, there's quite a bit of weeds, but I'm trying not to use chemicals if at all possible. My lawn is ~1000-1100 sq.ft, by the way. So here are your options... (imho) 1 herbicide the lawn and re-sod it. Possibly add new top soil before hand. This will cost the most. Up to $200.00 for dirt (10 yards), $20.00 for fertilizer, $20.00 for herbicide, $20.00 for a sprayer (if needed), Roller rental $?.00 and sod $???.00 (price varies) 2 all of above but seed instead of sod. Perennial rye generaly sprouts faster (1 week), but is not as nice (imho). Tall Fescue takes longer (2/3 weeks) and is a bit nicer. 2 weeks for spray and 2or 3 weeks for seed. First mowing in 6 weeks and looks great in 8 weeks 80) 3 least favorite would be to lay weed & feed and re-seed in 3 weeks. Your milage may vary. Any way you look at it, there really isn't too many ways to get things done in under two weeks. 6 weeks is a bit more workable |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote:
"William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Timothy wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) -- I won't retire, but I might retread. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"William W. Plummer" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? -- http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
On Sat, 15 May 2004 14:50:41 +0000, William W. Plummer wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. Could you name one lawn type that didn't derive from a 'weed' grass? Just because ortho claims it to be a weed doesn't make it true. What is a weed anyway but an un-wanted plant? I would personaly suggest that anyone planting grass should look for a mix of grasses. Tall fescue is not perfect for all situations in the lawn. All this talk a side, you still side step the real point of these posts. You made a claim and have not provide evidence of your claim. I highly doubt that there is a lawn type grass that will root to three feet. Scotts Rebel II isn't a tall fescue, but a red fescue as far as I can tell: http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/lawnchallenge/lesson2.html Tall fescue description: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/p.../tallfesc.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"William W. Plummer" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." Oh, so now it's 3 to 4 foot roots on tall fescue. Bullcrap. -- http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Steveo wrote in message ...
"William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." Oh, so now it's 3 to 4 foot roots on tall fescue. Bullcrap. FYI Mr. Plummer, if you disagree with steveo he will attempt to find out your address and harass you. He has done this a number of times in the rec.radio.cb NG even going so far as to go to peoples houses and take pictures and post them on the internet without there permission. He does all this while hiding his identity so they can not retaliate.. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
WA3MOJ-George (I Am Not George) wrote:
Steveo wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." Oh, so now it's 3 to 4 foot roots on tall fescue. Bullcrap. FYI Mr. Plummer, if you disagree with steveo he will attempt to find out your address and harass you. He has done this a number of times in the rec.radio.cb NG even going so far as to go to peoples houses and take pictures and post them on the internet without there permission. He does all this while hiding his identity so they can not retaliate.. Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? -- http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Steveo wrote in message ...
Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? i am here for the truth as mr. plummer found out you are a hothead and a stalker who will harass people at there homes. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
(I Am Not George) wrote:
Steveo wrote in message ... Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? i am here for the truth as mr. plummer found out you are a hothead and a stalker who will harass people at there homes. Mr Plummer has no problem with me. I just want to see the turf-type tall fescue that has 3-4 foot roots. Sounds good. You on the other-hand are sick in the dome, and chase me around Usenet in order to harass. -- http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Steveo" wrote in message ... WA3MOJ-George (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." Oh, so now it's 3 to 4 foot roots on tall fescue. Bullcrap. FYI Mr. Plummer, if you disagree with steveo he will attempt to find out your address and harass you. He has done this a number of times in the rec.radio.cb NG even going so far as to go to peoples houses and take pictures and post them on the internet without there permission. He does all this while hiding his identity so they can not retaliate.. Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? It must be nice to feel loved :P Landshark -- Treat people as if they were what they ought to be and you will help them become what they are capable of becoming. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Steveo wrote in message ...
(I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? i am here for the truth as mr. plummer found out you are a hothead and a stalker who will harass people at there homes. Mr Plummer has no problem with me. I just want to see the turf-type tall fescue that has 3-4 foot roots. Sounds good. You on the other-hand are sick in the dome, and chase me around Usenet in order to harass. have i come to your home? have I posted your court records? have i posted your work address and phone number? no, but YOU have done all that to people and you havent even got the guts to come out of hiding with your real name and address. you sir are the one harassing and you have no excuse. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Fisher Price" wrote in message ... - Cover the ground with an opaque tarp for two weeks to kill the weeds - bring in good topsoil, enough for 2-3 inches depth of coverage, 20% oragnic for fast growth - seed using high quality brand name seed, eg. Scot's Will be much cheaper than sodding or hydroseeding, even if you use the expensive topsoil. Using good soilk and seed, along with regular watering 91-2 times a day depending on how wet your weather is) should get you grass in under two weeks. I did it in July and had new grass in six days, but in 2-3 weeks it was much more mature and spread out. I agree. If you have rocky soil, you wouldn't want to till amendments into it for grass, just put topsoil/compost on top. Compost is usually more expensive than topsoil, but many times topsoil doesn't have organic matrerial. I would mix the two 50/50. Let the grass grow in good soil. To stay away from chemicals, the tarp/black plastic method is advised. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Thanks Timothy, and others, for responses. I'm learning.
I decided to use 'some' chemicals before redoing the lawn. I feel like I missed the boat for seeding (in terms of timing), since it's getting warm here in New England. For sodding, can it be done in June, maybe even July and be ok? Now, this is my plan of action 1. Rototill the existing lawn 2. Cover it up (~1000 ft^2) with tarp to kill the weeds (and whatever else was growing with weeds) - ~2 weeks? 3. Put in some new top soil 4. Apply weed killer chemicals 5. Re-sod 6. Water 7. Water more .... Step 1 can be done in a half day, 3,4,5 can be done in another day after tarp comes off. Sound about right? Timothy wrote in message ws.com... On Thu, 13 May 2004 22:05:01 -0700, FGreen wrote: mowing height depends - where there is grass, ~2-3", on bare spots, 0", on dandelion spots, 8+"... ha... sorry for being a smartmouth. I try to keep it high enough to block the weeds, but the situation has reversed itself. Good mowing hight.... We put fertilizers in the fall, once a year. We water infrequently in the summer (to let it go dormant..?) aeration hasn't been done since it was sodded (I know, a mistake) Yes, we use mulching mower. We haven't been very deligent about keeping it up, I have to say. I would tend to fertilize twice a year. I would use half in the spring and half in the fall. It's good to boost the grass in the spring when the nitrogen is low in the soil. Nitrogen is a non-fixed element that moves with water. After the run off of winter, nitrogen is at it's lowest. Yes, I have read that post from you before posting my question. It was probably the closest to what I was looking for and most helpful post I found in search. The only difference would be, we already have a lawn (weed lawn). Do I till it up, or just put new soil on top? Do I need to use chemicals to kill the existing weeds? My situation is, we're planning on selling the place, and want to make the lawn look good in short timeframe. Don't have the time to wait for seed to germinate, etc., because I need to act quickly once . I don't want to spend too much money, but then I don't want do a non-even-a-half-ass job like the builder did, either. With the short time frame, non-chemical requirements and price range, your situation is a bit difficult. No matter how you spin it, sod isn't cheap. If you were to do sod, you could just over lay the native soil after letting a non-selective herbicide do it's work. You would be able to spray and lay with in two weeks. While others rave over Round-up.. I personaly won't touch the stuff. It's a rather toxic chemical and there's lots of proof via the net for those who wish to look for it. I use Finale (product name) or any product with glufosinate ammonium as the main active ingredient. Here's the spec sheet on it: http://www.horizononline.com/msds_sh...f/finale25.pdf Page 8 and onward you'll find the toxic's report. Looks rather good to me and the enviroment and that's why I use it in my business. Is it ok to till up the existing lawn, add some soil, till up some more, and lay down the sod, without adding any weed killers? Again, there's quite a bit of weeds, but I'm trying not to use chemicals if at all possible. My lawn is ~1000-1100 sq.ft, by the way. So here are your options... (imho) 1 herbicide the lawn and re-sod it. Possibly add new top soil before hand. This will cost the most. Up to $200.00 for dirt (10 yards), $20.00 for fertilizer, $20.00 for herbicide, $20.00 for a sprayer (if needed), Roller rental $?.00 and sod $???.00 (price varies) 2 all of above but seed instead of sod. Perennial rye generaly sprouts faster (1 week), but is not as nice (imho). Tall Fescue takes longer (2/3 weeks) and is a bit nicer. 2 weeks for spray and 2or 3 weeks for seed. First mowing in 6 weeks and looks great in 8 weeks 80) 3 least favorite would be to lay weed & feed and re-seed in 3 weeks. Your milage may vary. Any way you look at it, there really isn't too many ways to get things done in under two weeks. 6 weeks is a bit more workable |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Now, this is my plan of action 1. Rototill the existing lawn 2. Cover it up (~1000 ft^2) with tarp to kill the weeds (and whatever else was growing with weeds) - ~2 weeks? 3. Put in some new top soil 4. Apply weed killer chemicals 5. Re-sod 6. Water 7. Water more If you are going to put topsoil on top, there is no need to rototill. Save yourself some work, and just cover the grass/weeds up with a tarp. Also, the topsoil shouldn't have any weed seeds, and even if it does, the sod should suffiently cover them up so they won't germinate. There shouldn't be any reason to use chemical weedkillers. If you're worried about weeds sprouting in the edges of the strips of sod, just use corn gluten meal (found at a local feed store) to inhibit seed germination. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"tmtresh" wrote:
Now, this is my plan of action 1. Rototill the existing lawn 2. Cover it up (~1000 ft^2) with tarp to kill the weeds (and whatever else was growing with weeds) - ~2 weeks? 3. Put in some new top soil 4. Apply weed killer chemicals 5. Re-sod 6. Water 7. Water more If you are going to put topsoil on top, there is no need to rototill. Save yourself some work, and just cover the grass/weeds up with a tarp. Also, the topsoil shouldn't have any weed seeds, Good luck finding sterilized top soil, except maybe in bags. -- http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Landshark" wrote in message .com...
"Steveo" wrote in message ... WA3MOJ-George (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... "William W. Plummer" wrote: "Steveo" wrote in message ... Timothy wrote: On Sat, 15 May 2004 00:48:32 +0000, Steveo wrote: "William W. Plummer" wrote: Quick fix: annual rye grass ("builders' grass") Good fix: any mix with a high percentage of "tall fescue" seed. It sends roots 2-3' down to get water and doesn't get brown in summer. Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? I've used a tall fescue called "crew cut" which is said to have up to 18 inches of root and 13 inches of mature hight. 3 foot... hmm, do I smell a fish story ..? lol It might be a pasture fescue, would you plant that in your lawn? :) Tall Fescue was derived from a weed grass. You can find it in the Ortho weed book. Scotts has finally come out with a tall fescue, Rebel II is a label you'll see, and I seem to recall a company named York having a product. You must read the labels, looking for "tall fescue" only in the mix. Other fescues won't help you. You don't have to tell me what turf type tall fescue is. So I ask you again..Do you have a link to this tall fescue with 2-3' roots? Mind your manners, please. Here is a quote from a http://www.paulparent.com . Paul's credentials are on the home page of the site. "The next seed to germinate will be Tall Fescue the seed that makes your lawn look good all year long. This plant will produce a root system 3 to 4 feet deep into the ground to find water during dry periods and water bans. Tall Fescue will need ..." Oh, so now it's 3 to 4 foot roots on tall fescue. Bullcrap. FYI Mr. Plummer, if you disagree with steveo he will attempt to find out your address and harass you. He has done this a number of times in the rec.radio.cb NG even going so far as to go to peoples houses and take pictures and post them on the internet without there permission. He does all this while hiding his identity so they can not retaliate.. Hey WA3MOJ, why do you follow me around to different newsgroups like a lost leg-humping puppy? Do you have a lawn or garden question? Or are you just here to harass? It must be nice to feel loved :P Landshark OK lets take a look at gay Mark becks proven history as a user of transexual prositutes shall we......... ================================================== =================== Here's a post to rec.radio.cb in July of 1999. Some of you may remember it. Landshark posted quite regularly to the group. Just do a search at Google and you will find lots. There's no doubt it is the same "Landshark" we all know and love. Here's just one example ================================================== =================== From: s3sharkman ) Where are all the big boxes? Newsgroups: rec.radio.cb Date: 1999/07/16 Well dana my man (or woman) I know the every mighty F.C.C. won't mess with me. I've been running power since the early 70's, and never had any problem. Plus it's gonna be kinda hard to figure which house it is, considering that my 3 immediate neighbors all have antennas. My original post really had nothing to do with the general population, it was about guys like Dennis, Sean, Toll-free, Painkiller, etc., etc., Hell even the Professor doesn't come out anymore to throw in his one liners. I just hope that all the wanna-be lawyers die the death of brain cancer or some slow debilitating disease. s3sharkman dana wrote: when the fcc gets you, you wont be saying that. On Wed, 14 Jul 1999, the sharkman wrote: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 21:42:21 -0700 From: the sharkman Newsgroups: rec.radio.cb Subject: Where are all the big boxes? What happen out here, I mean don't give me all this legal crap has scared everyone. Christ all mighty, nothing but a bunch of whining "your running illegal power" dickheads hear now. At least in the old days everyone knew they we running illegal power, but all these whiners crying about it really sucks little old mark fuller dog dicks. You' all should wake up and smell the burning flux, because pretty soon there will be nothing here but a bunch of fag boys doing fox hunts and turning in their neighbors that they feel are running more than legal. the shark man ================================================== ======= OK, and here's just THREE of his posts to bisexual, bondage, transgender, you-name-it newsgroups he made in 1999. Same address. Same person. For more, do a search on Google. ================================================== ========= From: The Sharkman ) Subject: 510/650/408/415 Wanna know? Newsgroups: alt.personals.transgendered Date: 1999/03/07 I wanna know, are there any T girls that like to see "Bear Type" guys....... I have been with a few, but more than often, "You're nice but just not what I'm looking for" type. The Sharkman From: THE LANDSHARK ) Subject: Looking for good looking TV/TS for hire Newsgroups: alt.personals.transgendered Date: 1999/03/03 Hi Dominique, all I can say is she is well worth it. So if you want to have a real good time, drop her a note and prepare for the fun too begin. The Sharkman From: ) Subject: Northern Calif. Newsgroups: alt.personals.transgendered Date: 1998/11/12 I'm heading up around Susanville Sat, anyone around there???? =========================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Google*Home - Advertising*Programs - Business*Solutions - About Googleİ2004 Google |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
I Am Not George wrote:
"Landshark" wrote in message .com... "Steveo" wrote in message ... WA3MOJ-George (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message . .. What the hell does this have to do with lawn and garden? Maybe someone should start a news group for morons. Then you'd have a place to go with people you can relate to. -- Yard and Garden Handyman |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
Frank Gilliland wrote:
In , (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... (Nofrankgilliland) wrote: Hes a faggot he will chase you or twist or landshark where ever you go he likes your ass He's pathetic. you think so well heres your chance I will come to you steveo or whatever your name really is, I will buy a E ticket for Cleveland this weekend and drive a rental car to your door, I will even post the flight number and other details in the NG, but only after you post your valid addess and phone number I will not waste money on proving you cowardice. now Go sidestep that one assbucket I'll play the Devil's advocate here and ask what guarantee he has that you would show up? How can some one guarantee such a thing I am open to suggestons, so far this guy moparholic has been able to hide who he really is while harassing two hams at there homes. the big question is how can you guarantee that any address he gives is a real one and not a fake, he has been hiding for a long time I doubt he will come out in the open because he is a geniune chicken. The offer still stands moparholic or whoever you are, I will meet you on your front lawn and you can have the first swing free. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"I Am Not George" wrote in message ... Frank Gilliland wrote: In , (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... (Nofrankgilliland) wrote: Hes a faggot he will chase you or twist or landshark where ever you go he likes your ass He's pathetic. you think so well heres your chance I will come to you steveo or whatever your name really is, I will buy a E ticket for Cleveland this weekend and drive a rental car to your door, I will even post the flight number and other details in the NG, but only after you post your valid addess and phone number I will not waste money on proving you cowardice. now Go sidestep that one assbucket I'll play the Devil's advocate here and ask what guarantee he has that you would show up? How can some one guarantee such a thing I am open to suggestons, so far this guy moparholic has been able to hide who he really is while harassing two hams at there homes. the big question is how can you guarantee that any address he gives is a real one and not a fake, he has been hiding for a long time I doubt he will come out in the open because he is a geniune chicken. The offer still stands moparholic or whoever you are, I will meet you on your front lawn and you can have the first swing free. And your name is? |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:46 -0700, FGreen wrote:
Thanks Timothy, and others, for responses. I'm learning. I decided to use 'some' chemicals before redoing the lawn. I feel like I missed the boat for seeding (in terms of timing), since it's getting warm here in New England. For sodding, can it be done in June, maybe even July and be ok? Now, this is my plan of action 1. Rototill the existing lawn 2. Cover it up (~1000 ft^2) with tarp to kill the weeds (and whatever else was growing with weeds) - ~2 weeks? 3. Put in some new top soil 4. Apply weed killer chemicals 5. Re-sod 6. Water 7. Water more ... Step 1 can be done in a half day, 3,4,5 can be done in another day after tarp comes off. Sound about right? If I was hired to do the job I would: 1 spray the whole lawn area with finale. 2 wait 2/ 3 days for the finale to kick in. 3 spread 10+ yards of topsoil and lay sod. 4 Fertilize with 16-16-16 , water and hand you a bill 80) As far as tarps and the like go... It takes quite a while for tarping to kill off perennial weeds. Time is something that you do not have so spraying will be your only true option. Dandy lions and other perennial weeds can and most likly will work their way up through the sod over time. I personally wouldn't chance it and would take the extra effort to do it right the first time. Btw, what they charging you for sod out there..? Good luck to ya....... |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"AKC KennelMaster" wrote in message ... "I Am Not George" wrote in message ... Frank Gilliland wrote: In , (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... (Nofrankgilliland) wrote: Hes a faggot he will chase you or twist or landshark where ever you go he likes your ass He's pathetic. you think so well heres your chance I will come to you steveo or whatever your name really is, I will buy a E ticket for Cleveland this weekend and drive a rental car to your door, I will even post the flight number and other details in the NG, but only after you post your valid addess and phone number I will not waste money on proving you cowardice. now Go sidestep that one assbucket I'll play the Devil's advocate here and ask what guarantee he has that you would show up? How can some one guarantee such a thing I am open to suggestons, so far this guy moparholic has been able to hide who he really is while harassing two hams at there homes. the big question is how can you guarantee that any address he gives is a real one and not a fake, he has been hiding for a long time I doubt he will come out in the open because he is a geniune chicken. The offer still stands moparholic or whoever you are, I will meet you on your front lawn and you can have the first swing free. And your name is? LOL!!! Yeah it's ok for you to threaten to send emails to my work, family, friends. It's ok for you to threaten to call my house and tell my wife lies, call my work and do the same thing, yeah, kettle-pot..................... Same rhetoric for the past 4 years from you know who. Landshark -- That does suck..sometimes you're the windshield..sometimes you're the bug. |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
"Landshark" wrote in message .com...
"AKC KennelMaster" wrote in message ... "I Am Not George" wrote in message ... Frank Gilliland wrote: In , (I Am Not George) wrote: Steveo wrote in message ... (Nofrankgilliland) wrote: Hes a faggot he will chase you or twist or landshark where ever you go he likes your ass He's pathetic. you think so well heres your chance I will come to you steveo or whatever your name really is, I will buy a E ticket for Cleveland this weekend and drive a rental car to your door, I will even post the flight number and other details in the NG, but only after you post your valid addess and phone number I will not waste money on proving you cowardice. now Go sidestep that one assbucket I'll play the Devil's advocate here and ask what guarantee he has that you would show up? How can some one guarantee such a thing I am open to suggestons, so far this guy moparholic has been able to hide who he really is while harassing two hams at there homes. the big question is how can you guarantee that any address he gives is a real one and not a fake, he has been hiding for a long time I doubt he will come out in the open because he is a geniune chicken. The offer still stands moparholic or whoever you are, I will meet you on your front lawn and you can have the first swing free. And your name is? LOL!!! Yeah it's ok for you to threaten to send emails to my work, family, friends. It's ok for you to threaten to call my house and tell my wife lies, call my work and do the same thing, yeah, kettle-pot..................... Same rhetoric for the past 4 years from you know who. please provide some posts to back it up, assrod, I dont remember making any such threats to you. You have been caught smoking balls in other Ng's you then get mad because you were found out, cry cry all you want You monkey spanker... |
Help with redoing the lawn (sod on bad, rocky ground)
If I was hired to do the job I would: 1 spray the whole lawn area with finale. 2 wait 2/ 3 days for the finale to kick in. 3 spread 10+ yards of topsoil and lay sod. 4 Fertilize with 16-16-16 , water and hand you a bill 80) As far as tarps and the like go... It takes quite a while for tarping to kill off perennial weeds. Time is something that you do not have so spraying will be your only true option. Dandy lions and other perennial weeds can and most likly will work their way up through the sod over time. I personally wouldn't chance it and would take the extra effort to do it right the first time. Btw, what they charging you for sod out there..? Good luck to ya....... Makes sense. I'll just spray either Finale (can't find it?) or Weed-B-Gone and wait a week or so, cover it with top soil, and sod over it. For sod, they're charging somewhere between $3-4 for 9 sq. ft (6'x1.5'). So, for ~1400 sq. ft. I'm looking at (my initial guess was off), the sod alone would be ~$600. Not sure how much top soil would cost to cover the area. Does anyone know where to get top soil in Massachusetts? |
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