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Old 02-09-2005, 02:58 AM
Arrest Spam
 
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Default That nut-grass won't die


It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?

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Old 02-09-2005, 02:56 PM
?
 
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On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 00:58:43 GMT in Arrest Spam wrote:

It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?


Mulch.

Seriously. Replace the lawn with large swatches of mulch
and interesting plants and your nutgrass problem will be history.


--
Chris Dukes
Suspicion breeds confidence -- Brazil
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:41 AM
Happy Moose
 
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You need a herbicide that specifically targets nutgrass. The Ortho product
and Round-up will not do the trick in my experience.

Basagran T/O is such a product and I have used it in my flower beds. It is
labled for over-the-top spraying of many perennials such as daylilies.
However, it takes several applications and it burns the desirable plants.

I have recently switched to Manage. After the first application less than a
week ago, I can already see the nutgrass dying. However, killing the
foliage is easy. You must kill the nuts that are growing on the root tips.
Manage will do this. You will probably need to be aggressive with your
spraying because there is probably a good supply of young nuts in the ground
that will continue to emerge. You will probably want to spray every three
weeks during next year's growing season.

Manage is labled to kill nutgrass in turfgrasses so it should be fine to
spray on your entire lawn.

You will be better off purchasing the 1 1/2 ounce bottle instead of the 0.9
gram size.

Here is a current ebay auction that has it for sale for $165.00. However,
you should be able to find it for around $120.00 from regular chemical
supplier. The lowest price I have heard of is $90.00.

Bobby Baxter
http://happymoosegardens.com


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Old 03-09-2005, 03:42 PM
tomatolord
 
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You are too nice to it spammer..

Rhizome type plants are very very hard to kill becuase the plant stores
energy in its roots so if you kill the top off the plant just sends up new
tops, bamboo is like this, the key is to shrink the support system of the
plant.


You have to do the following

First pull up what you can

1 - spray the plant DO NOT mow let the plant absorb the herbicide
2 - when the top dies back mow it
3- Let the plant grow some again - not above the grass line - this is also
key
4 - repeat

If you let the plant get too tall then the root system will also be growing
as well so you want to prevent that as well

You need to exhaust the supply of energy in the roots of the plant - you
need to let the herbicide be absorbed into the plant.

You may need to do this for 2-3 months

Next year use a quality pre-emergent

remember to only spray on days where you think it will not rain.

Ortho nut-grass is fine - you just need to keep spraying the plant - one
application will never be enough.

Tomatolord


"Arrest Spam" wrote in message
.. .

It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the
lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?



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Old 03-09-2005, 07:14 PM
Happy Moose
 
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No offense to TomotoLord, but I totally disagree with his statement to
"first pull what you can". All this is going to do is make the situation
worse for you.

I have posted a picture on my domain at http://daylily.net/ebay/nutgrass.gif
that shows you the basic plant structure of nutgrass. If you pull the
emerged shoot then in most instances the main "nut" for that shoot will
remain in the soil. But even worse, you will be ripping it free from the
very thin tuborous roots that all the new nuts are growing on. All these
nuts that are left behind will then mature and start sending up shoots and
will develop even more elaborate tuborous systems and more nuts.

If you spray the emerged shoots without pulling the nutgrass grass, then
the chemical will find its why to the entire root system and will kill those
young nuts.

Pulling nutgrass will only make the situation worse in the long run. The
sooner you start addressing the situation properly, the sooner you will
resolve your problem, and the less money you will spend.

As far as mowing the nutgrass... it is advised to not cut it two days before
spraying and two days after spraying with Manage.

Bobby Baxter
http://thegardensite.com




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Old 04-09-2005, 06:34 PM
tomatolord
 
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Bobby - I have to disagree

The key is to weaken the root structure that it sending up leaves.

If you remove the energy producing portion of the plant (the green top part)
then the roots will have to send up new shoots, which will greatly weaken
the root system.

Spray the new shoots which will quickly absorb the hebicide.

Tomatolord


"Happy Moose" wrote in message
om...
No offense to TomotoLord, but I totally disagree with his statement to
"first pull what you can". All this is going to do is make the situation
worse for you.

I have posted a picture on my domain at
http://daylily.net/ebay/nutgrass.gif that shows you the basic plant
structure of nutgrass. If you pull the emerged shoot then in most
instances the main "nut" for that shoot will remain in the soil. But
even worse, you will be ripping it free from the very thin tuborous roots
that all the new nuts are growing on. All these nuts that are left behind
will then mature and start sending up shoots and will develop even more
elaborate tuborous systems and more nuts.

If you spray the emerged shoots without pulling the nutgrass grass, then
the chemical will find its why to the entire root system and will kill
those young nuts.

Pulling nutgrass will only make the situation worse in the long run. The
sooner you start addressing the situation properly, the sooner you will
resolve your problem, and the less money you will spend.

As far as mowing the nutgrass... it is advised to not cut it two days
before spraying and two days after spraying with Manage.

Bobby Baxter
http://thegardensite.com




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Old 05-09-2005, 05:33 PM
Baine Carruthers
 
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If you really want to control the problem, till the entire affected area &
apply an appropriate soil fumigant or steam. That's probably the only
realistic100% method of control. Be learly of using sod in the area, as
that is a primary vector of purple & yellow nutsedge in my experience.

--
Baine


"Arrest Spam" wrote in message
.. .

It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the

lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?



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Old 05-09-2005, 09:49 PM
tomatolord
 
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Our neighbor brought in some topsoil and did the yard and made some beds and
it all is filled with nutgrass

tomatolord

"Baine Carruthers" wrote in message
...
If you really want to control the problem, till the entire affected area &
apply an appropriate soil fumigant or steam. That's probably the only
realistic100% method of control. Be learly of using sod in the area, as
that is a primary vector of purple & yellow nutsedge in my experience.

--
Baine


"Arrest Spam" wrote in message
.. .

It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the

lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them
out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?





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Old 10-09-2005, 02:07 PM
Mitch Amiano
 
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Default

Some helpful pages

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7432.html

http://threeissues.sdsu.edu/three_is...lofacts02.html

Arrest Spam wrote:
It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?

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Old 12-08-2011, 08:29 PM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrest Spam View Post
It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue
lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The
nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn
with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is
growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out
as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot
of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions?
Please visit the report from the University of California for information about controlling Nut Grass, at
Nutsedge Management Guidelines--UC IPM
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